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Old 05-26-2013, 05:07 PM   #1
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ms2 3.57 iac

went to sound performance had my car tuned they did a great job.the iac will not work we work on it for 2 hours no settings changed anything.after you start the car it will go wide open I run the eec adapter from diy . my ? is what wires on the adapter go to the iac.
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Old 05-27-2013, 08:41 AM   #2
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What values do you have for:

1. under PWM idle settings
*Valve Frequency

2.Under closed loop idle valve settings
*idle open duty %
*idle valve closed duty %

3. Under closed loop idle PID settings
*Min Duty for PID %
*RPM w/ valve closed
*RPM w/ valve open
*proportional gain
*integral gain
*derivative gain
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Old 05-27-2013, 08:50 AM   #3
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Also, this is a really good thread about getting the IAC working. Worth a read. A couple of us had similar problems.

Another PWM Idle Control Issues Thread w/ MS2 v3.0
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Old 05-27-2013, 06:42 PM   #4
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when I got my ms I got a tune from a guy on yellobullet .in output port settings under extended he had pm2- fidle and pm6- iac highlighted fidle set to coolant threshold 180 trigger value 1 and iac set to map threshold set to 121 is this why my iac is all the way open whan the car get warm
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Old 05-28-2013, 09:20 AM   #5
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There's a good chance that is why, yes. Disable the IAC one for now.

You're not using the fidle stuff (stepper-motor idle control) for your idle at least, so that one shouldn't be the cause. It might be used for turning on fans when the engine reaches temp, especially with a trigger temp of 180. So it's likely best to leave that one alone for now, until you can verify if it's actually doing something useful or not.
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Old 05-29-2013, 12:27 AM   #6
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disabled the outport and ran iac valve test did not move on the eec adapter what wire go's to the iac
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Old 05-29-2013, 10:30 AM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by turbo c View Post
disabled the outport and ran iac valve test did not move on the eec adapter what wire go's to the iac
The wire from pin 30 on the MegaSquirt to pin 21 on the EEC-IV connector.
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Old 05-29-2013, 11:30 AM   #8
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Thank you I just want to say sorry for doubting ms now that I know what it's about it's a nice standalone and thanks to everyone that has helped me the car put down 606 hp 12psi and 788hp on 20psi now if I get the iac all worked out but thanks again
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Old 05-29-2013, 12:24 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by turbo c View Post
what wire go's to the iac
You can get this kind of answer very quickly through Google. Then you won't need to wait for one of us to have time to check the forum and respond.

I found this with the google search "eec-iv pinout mustang"



In that diagram, you can see the "Idle Speed Control" component. You can see that the power wire is red and is shared with most other sensors and components, like the fuel injectors. You can see then that the controlling wire is the ground wire, that it is White/Light Blue, and that it goes to eec-iv pin 21.

I found this the google search "Megasquirt 2 pinout".



Even though this is not mustang specific, you can see that it has a PWM idle control output, wired up the same way the factory has the mustang IAC wired up. With power shared with the other components, and a single ground control wire, which is going to pin 30.

Knowing for sure that the factory harness will be on pin21, you can trace that in your adapter and see that it would be going to megasquirt pin 30, which would jive with the MS2 diagram from the google search.

Not all trying to bust your balls, just trying to help show how to find this kind of information so that you don't have to wait so long for information.

By the way, that car must be a blast putting down that kind of power to the wheels. I think it's about time you made a video!
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Old 05-29-2013, 08:17 PM   #10
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if you go on youtube casey notch us41 there is some old videos there is a new video casey dyno that's with the ms
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Old 05-29-2013, 08:20 PM   #11
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I still cant get the iac to work if I do a idle valve test it don't move if I check it with volt metter it has 10.3 volts is there something in outports I need to do
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Old 05-29-2013, 08:27 PM   #12
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on youtube casey notch 11-6-11 that's when it was going 9.20 146 1.3160ft
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Old 05-30-2013, 08:54 AM   #13
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Quote:
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I still cant get the iac to work if I do a idle valve test it don't move if I check it with volt metter it has 10.3 volts is there something in outports I need to do
For what you are trying to do, there is nothing in output ports that is used for your PWM IAC. Those are for auxiliary purposes only, like if you were re-purposing IAC control for nitrous control instead.

If you have any settings in output ports enabled for PM2, disable them.

PT6 and PT7 are a different kind of idle output for a stepper motor. Settings for those you can leave alone.

I still need answers to the questions in the 2nd post, it's hard to help without that info.

Type it out or post a screenshot. Feel free to post a screenshot of your output port settings too if you want them looked at.
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Old 05-30-2013, 09:52 AM   #14
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Idle open duty 60 idle valve closed duty 5.9 idle activation rpm 300 idle activation tps 2.0 dashpot adder 1.2 close delay 3 leave valve closed 1500 for this number of sec 3 pmw valve frequency 6 min dutu fot pid 5.9 rpm valve closed 500 rpm valve open 1600 pid delay 5 crank to run taper 9 pid control interval 200 proportional gain 100 intergral gain 5.0 derivative gain 0 pid lockout rpm dot 500 pid max decel load 25.0 pid disable 1000
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Old 05-30-2013, 12:10 PM   #15
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Okay, so the problem is that your idle hangs too high, is that right? IF so, what RPM is it hanging at? Is the "CL Idle" box at the bottom of the gauge cluster in TunerStuido lit when this happens or not?
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Old 05-30-2013, 09:11 PM   #16
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no the iac will not do nothing if I take it off and look at it I cant get it to do nothing that the problem its all wired right if I put a volt meter on the pos/neg I get 10.3 no matter what I do with settings or idle valve test
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Old 05-30-2013, 10:21 PM   #17
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Quote:
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no the iac will not do nothing if I take it off and look at it I cant get it to do nothing that the problem its all wired right if I put a volt meter on the pos/neg I get 10.3 no matter what I do with settings or idle valve test
It won't do anything just looking at it and changing values in TS.

The Ford valves 'rest' in the fully open position. When they're installed, engine vacuum pulls it closed. Then when you provide a signal, it fights against that vacuum to maintain some degree of open. So if it's already sitting open, activating the motor doesn't change anything. You need it to close the valve first.

Sometimes they get all jammed up with crap and vacuum won't pull it closed like it should, or the motor can't open it up correctly. Sometimes cleaning it helps.

If you want to try to bench-test it, you'd need to push the valve closed by hand somehow, maybe a pencil or something, and then see if the motor tries to resist you when you activate it.

Under the advanced menu, there is an idle valve test section. Turn the testing on, Enter 0 for "home" and I'd start with 50 for "iac steps".
Then, when "move to home position" is "home", you should be able to close the valve with little resistance. Change that to "run" and you should feel the valve try to work against you.
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Last edited by seijirou; 05-30-2013 at 10:22 PM.
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Old 05-30-2013, 11:07 PM   #18
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if I run a test with a volt meter it stays at 10.3 in home or run
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Old 05-30-2013, 11:13 PM   #19
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I am not sure you can test a pwm signal with a volt meter.

Sent from AutoGuide.com Free App
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Old 05-31-2013, 12:19 AM   #20
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the car runs the same if I plug it in or not
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Old 05-31-2013, 10:06 AM   #21
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Can you post a copy of your tune? I can have a look at the IAC settings.
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Old 05-31-2013, 12:15 PM   #22
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Hate to see someone having the same issues as me, but kinda glad I'm not the only one.
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Old 05-31-2013, 12:25 PM   #23
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What RPM is the car running at?

Is the "CL Idle" box at the bottom of the gauge cluster in TunerStuido on or not?

Are you able to move the IAC valve by hand?
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Old 05-31-2013, 07:43 PM   #24
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I will see if that cl idle comes on when I go to my shop the car runs great just have to warm it up before it will idle when its warm it idles at 850/900 rpm 14.8 to 15.0 afr if its any richer it will serge it run and drives. great if I can get the iac working that will help my cold start.u with the boost at 16 it makes about 700hp it a blast to drive
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Old 05-31-2013, 07:49 PM   #25
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the iac works if i bench test it with a drill battery
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Old 06-04-2013, 10:24 PM   #26
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yes my cl idle is on now what
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Old 06-05-2013, 01:15 PM   #27
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So that tells us the criteria for closed loop idle control is being met which is good. If you haven't done it already you should test resistance between the IAC plug on the white wire with pin 30 on the megasquirt harness, just to validate that you actually have a circuit there. You should also test the IAC plug on the red wire for +12v against battery ground (not tested against the white wire).

Then capture a log of the car idling, while the cl idle is on, but not working the way you want it to. Then email the log file, and your msq file, to websales@diyautotune.com along with a link to this thread and they will be able to help figure out what isn't working as desired.

If you like, send me a PM with your email address and I will email you too so you can reply with those files attached and I'll also take a look at it.
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Old 07-13-2013, 06:38 PM   #28
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Any headway made here?
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Old 07-21-2013, 07:20 PM   #29
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I have my car running so good with out it im not even going to mess with it we did the same thing to my guys car his runs great with out it to. all we do is hold it at 1200 rpm for maybe 30 secs and then it will idle on its own
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