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Old 01-02-2010, 07:57 PM   #36
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Originally Posted by yellow coupe View Post
The shop should have to put in a new engine. Why should you lose when it is not your fault?
This.

But good luck. This is more than likely going to be a long and painful process of suck for you.
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Old 01-02-2010, 07:59 PM   #37
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This is why I`ve always changed my own oil and never once gone to a quick lube.

I haven`t screwed up once doing this job in over 25 years.
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Old 01-02-2010, 08:05 PM   #38
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when i bought my mach 1 a few months ago first thing i did was change the oil. the dealer had a POS valvoline filter on it with the little rubber O ring. it was stuck on the motor and i didnt see it. put the new motorcraft filter on and started it up to check for pressure and it sounded like a shower running underneath the car. I quickly shut it off and cleaned the mess...
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i have a light on my dash board that has been on 4 da past week it says service engine soon i got a oil change but i dont know y its still on any 1 noe y
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Old 01-02-2010, 08:11 PM   #39
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I had a jiffylube crack the oilpan on my first car and didn't realize it till the idiot light popped on. I like the moron kid I was drove back to the place. There was no oil in the car and a trail of it leading away from the shop. The pan was replaced and refilled with oil and the car ran fan for tens of thousands more miles before my sister totaled it in a BK drive-thru when she jacked it while I was away at a college tour.

I NEVER trust those places. Ever!
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Old 01-02-2010, 08:13 PM   #40
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So I am driving my Ford 500 and see smoke in the rear, think its fresh oild burning off...not a big deal at the time...

Check my neat system check and it tells me all is o.k., (but no oil check). Engine temp is normal. Then a red oil light comes on. I figure I can make it back to where I left as to me that should mean about 5 qts left from 6 qts (no idea what sets the light off, but would think a qt low would set it off. Went about 8 miles one way, and about 7.5 the other...

The smoke went away, engine made some noise, and then cut off...

Sounds like the lifters are shot. What else could be wrong? I use Amsoil 5W-20 and have about 51,000 easy miles on it. I thought an engine could go a few miles (hours from what they show on t.v.) with low oil....

Added more oil, and the engine would crank hard, but not run. later it ran and made some sad sounds from the engine.

Think it might be just the lifters? What else?
If the shop tries to send it to some rinky dink yahoo to fix the engine please do yourself a favor and turn the claim in on your insurance (or threaten to at first and see if that gets them moving). Your insurance will cover it minus your deductible and then tackle the shop's insurance.
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Old 01-02-2010, 08:15 PM   #41
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It takes special skills to total a car in a drive-thru.
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Old 01-02-2010, 08:20 PM   #42
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I did the same thing when I was about 13, changed the oil and filter at 600 miles on my Dad's brand new F150. Double-gasket. He was driving it and noticed the drop in pressure, thank God. Had it been my Mom it would've been all over for me.

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Old 01-02-2010, 08:21 PM   #43
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It takes special skills to total a car in a drive-thru.
Damage to every side of the car AND the frame.
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Old 01-02-2010, 09:11 PM   #44
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So I am driving my Ford 500 and see smoke in the rear, think its fresh oild burning off...not a big deal at the time...
I guess you were right about that, it was fresh oil burning off. You need a new engine, hopefully the oil change place does the right thing.
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Old 01-02-2010, 09:45 PM   #45
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I guess you were right about that, it was fresh oil burning off.



Just to enlighten me. Why would there be fresh oil burning off when doing an oil change?
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Old 01-02-2010, 09:54 PM   #46
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Originally Posted by NIUPonyBoy View Post
Damage to every side of the car AND the frame.
WTF? Please explain lol.
Does.
Not.
Compute.
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Old 01-02-2010, 09:56 PM   #47
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Just to enlighten me. Why would there be fresh oil burning off when doing an oil change?
Some times oil spills in places you can't get to with a towel when removing the filter....or when you twitch while pouring new oil into the funnel and some of it dumps onto the header.
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Old 01-02-2010, 10:09 PM   #48
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WTF? Please explain lol.
Does.
Not.
Compute.
She was going to an old BK with a large brick overhang over and on both sides of the pick-up window. She cut the corner too sharp and clipped the drivers side along the side of the building smashing the door in and blowing up the window and the quarter glass. She freaked out and back up into another car behind her. At that point she was freaking out worse and just gunned it forward. Smashed into the brick overhang on the passenger side tearing off the front bumper and pop-up light and crunched in the passenger side all the way back breaking the tail light. While she was doing that she jumped a somewhat high curb and the car came down hard on it. Insurance totaled it out and said it had a 'damaged frame.'

It was '93 Probe so it doesn't surprise me. lol
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Old 01-02-2010, 10:14 PM   #49
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Just to enlighten me. Why would there be fresh oil burning off when doing an oil change?
He said they left the old oil filter gasket on and it was leaking from the filter area and likely pissing on the exhaust manifold to cause smoke.
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Old 01-02-2010, 11:07 PM   #50
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Originally Posted by NIUPonyBoy View Post
She was going to an old BK with a large brick overhang over and on both sides of the pick-up window. She cut the corner too sharp and clipped the drivers side along the side of the building smashing the door in and blowing up the window and the quarter glass. She freaked out and back up into another car behind her. At that point she was freaking out worse and just gunned it forward. Smashed into the brick overhang on the passenger side tearing off the front bumper and pop-up light and crunched in the passenger side all the way back breaking the tail light. While she was doing that she jumped a somewhat high curb and the car came down hard on it. Insurance totaled it out and said it had a 'damaged frame.'

It was '93 Probe so it doesn't surprise me. lol
For the safety of the human population, get her a bus pass.
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Old 01-02-2010, 11:14 PM   #51
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This happened at my shop a few years ago.4:30 oil change on friday and the new guy did a great job just didn't ad oil.Customer made it a few miles,he called and we added oil but the damage was done.We bought a reman long block and installed it and no,insurance wasn't involved.Its cheaper to do the repair and eat it then deal with higher rates.Business insurance is bad enough.
They won't be able to "repair" the engine from scoring on all moving parts,it will need a reman engine and in my experience,a low mileage used engine.Voice your concerns to them if the get off track or want to "split" the cost.
Not true. A machine shop can either grind the crank under 10 or 20 thousandths, or weld up the main and rod journals and grind it standard if the damage is bad enough.

The reason why this isn't done, is because the cost of a junkyard or remanufactured engine is much much less than the cost of rebuilding a blown one. Simple economics.

ANYTHING can be fixed if you have the proper TOOLS and TRAINING. ANYTHING. Doesn't mean it's economically feasible, but it can be done.


From my experience, an engine will survive if it is run for a VERY SHORT time with little or no oil. I'm talking seconds here, up to 30ish seconds, tops. The main and rod bearings will IMMEDIATELY start to wear excessively as soon as the critical oil film goes missing, causing a tell-tale rod knock deep in the engine. They quickly overheat, spin, and weld themselves to the crank, at which point the engine either seizes, or causes damage to the main bearing saddles, main caps, and rods, and then seizes. Usually if the damage is this catastrophic, repair is not recommended, as machine shop labor is very expensive for such an operation.

Any time that low oil light comes on, SHUT THE VEHICLE OFF IMMEDIATELY. Not wait till you get home 5 miles down the street, not to the next intersection, NOW! Irreparable damage is the result otherwise, as the original poster will find out VERY SOON...
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Old 01-02-2010, 11:15 PM   #52
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Some times oil spills in places you can't get to with a towel when removing the filter....or when you twitch while pouring new oil into the funnel and some of it dumps onto the header.
ah OK.. I thought he meant like the engine burns new oil... Couldn't tell considering whats happened in this thread
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Old 01-02-2010, 11:16 PM   #53
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For the safety of the human population, get her a bus pass.
That was like 13 years ago. lol
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Old 01-02-2010, 11:17 PM   #54
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That was like 13 years ago. lol
Did she learn her lesson?

Does the family still bust her balls at family gatherings?
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Old 01-02-2010, 11:18 PM   #55
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He said they left the old oil filter gasket on and it was leaking from the filter area and likely pissing on the exhaust manifold to cause smoke.
I got that.. But

Quote:
Originally Posted by DHG-Bullitt-GT View Post
So I am driving my Ford 500 and see smoke in the rear, think its fresh oild burning off...not a big deal at the time...


Made it sound like its normal after an oil change for an engine to burn new oil.. But I've got it now.
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Old 01-03-2010, 12:15 AM   #56
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Not true. A machine shop can either grind the crank under 10 or 20 thousandths, or weld up the main and rod journals and grind it standard if the damage is bad enough.

The reason why this isn't done, is because the cost of a junkyard or remanufactured engine is much much less than the cost of rebuilding a blown one. Simple economics.

ANYTHING can be fixed if you have the proper TOOLS and TRAINING. ANYTHING. Doesn't mean it's economically feasible, but it can be done.


From my experience, an engine will survive if it is run for a VERY SHORT time with little or no oil. I'm talking seconds here, up to 30ish seconds, tops. The main and rod bearings will IMMEDIATELY start to wear excessively as soon as the critical oil film goes missing, causing a tell-tale rod knock deep in the engine. They quickly overheat, spin, and weld themselves to the crank, at which point the engine either seizes, or causes damage to the main bearing saddles, main caps, and rods, and then seizes. Usually if the damage is this catastrophic, repair is not recommended, as machine shop labor is very expensive for such an operation.

Any time that low oil light comes on, SHUT THE VEHICLE OFF IMMEDIATELY. Not wait till you get home 5 miles down the street, not to the next intersection, NOW! Irreparable damage is the result otherwise, as the original poster will find out VERY SOON...
Like I said,it can't be repaired.
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Old 01-03-2010, 12:36 AM   #57
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Made it sound like its normal after an oil change for an engine to burn new oil.. But I've got it now.

This place uses cardboard and rags to keep the spilled oil off the vehicle, but I thought the new face guy doing the change might have spilled some on the exhaust or tranny.
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Old 01-03-2010, 01:30 AM   #58
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Like I said,it can't be repaired.
The words "can't", as in "can not" and "wont", as in "will not", have two entirely different meanings. There is a subtle difference.

In this example, "will not" applies more than "can not", for aforementioned reasons. I am sure that you are aware of this already, though.
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Old 01-03-2010, 07:58 AM   #59
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The double gasket thing happens if you aren't careful. Luckily I had it happen to me very early on. Freshly painted block on a brand new motor and the gasket stuck tight for the first oil change. I checked it thoroughly and the motor actually didn't start pumping out oil until quite a bit later, but it smoked and I stopped immediately with it only having lost a bit of oil and not having lost oil pressure.

It could have been a very expensive lesson and it taught me to check every time thereafter.
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Old 01-03-2010, 09:09 AM   #60
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I had the double gasket thing happen to me as well. However I always crank the engine by standing outside the car and immediatally look under the car to watch for leaks. The one and only time it happened to me I pumped about 3 and a half quarts out of my lil 2.3 into the floor. Was a mess to clean up but I caught it in time.
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Old 01-03-2010, 09:50 AM   #61
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At least they admit they are in the wrong. Document everything, every phone call, etc.
This and do it as soon as possible. You need to get everything documented and it may take a while, but have them pay for your stuff.
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Old 01-03-2010, 11:14 AM   #62
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Like I said,it can't be repaired.
I used to fix #### like this all the time.

All of the parts retain a film of oil after draining the pan or running it down to the point that the pump will no longer pick it up. For pistons and valvetrain it means a few minutes of running before serious damage. Long before that happens, the rod bearings will have burned the residual oil out, overheated, and welded to the crank. Once you get the caps off and bust the rods loose with a block of wood and a sledge, it's pretty straightforward. Sometimes you need a crank, sometimes you can clean the old one up. Rods are usually reusable unless the bearing spun. Mains will be burnt but usually will not seize before rods.

On a car engine it might be cheaper to replace the engine, or the whole car. On a high dollar engine though, it WILL be fixed.
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Old 01-03-2010, 12:39 PM   #63
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That sucks, but I just wanted to comment on my experience when I had the Paxton 302 in the car years back.

I was driving to the track and lost oil pressure (tuned out the oil pump driveshaft broke). I drove home prob a good 7 miles with the lifters ticking bad...crazy stuff. I put a new pump in it and continued to race it in the 11s for a few more years.
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Old 01-03-2010, 06:27 PM   #64
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Easy to avoid the double gasket issue.

Just look and the old filter you take off and see if the gasket is on it.

In all the years of removing oil filters the old gasket only stuck on the block I think once and I saw it right away.
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Old 01-03-2010, 06:34 PM   #65
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Cams and heads are def. scrap. There are no bearings, they just ride on the journals in the head. I've seen this happen before with the duratec motors. Long block is the only way to go. They could tear this engine down to a bare block and still miss something. Sorry for the bad luck.
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Old 01-03-2010, 07:08 PM   #66
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What gets me out of all of this is that the OP saw the smoke and the idiot light and continued to drive the effing car. Im sorry, i really feel for your situation, but at the same time, WTF man. I understand that the quicky lube place mighta effed up, but still, YOU drove it after you saw signs that something was wrong. I hope for your sake that the QL place makes good on it, but, you are still partially resposible...
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Old 01-03-2010, 10:09 PM   #67
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That's what I don't understand. This is NOT bad luck. Yeah, the quicky lube screwed up BUT...he saw/smelled the smoke and watched the "Hey your an idiot shut your engine off" light. And continued to drive the car. Tried to make it 8 miles with the oil light on? What gives?

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Old 01-03-2010, 10:26 PM   #68
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TS6034 View Post
That's what I don't understand. This is NOT bad luck. Yeah, the quicky lube screwed up BUT...he saw/smelled the smoke and watched the "Hey your an idiot shut your engine off" light. And continued to drive the car. Tried to make it 8 miles with the oil light on? What gives?
Thought the oil light on was a warning, like a check engine light (drive it, and check on it later). If it flashed I would have shut it down, like a check engine light that flashes.. If my tempature went up I would have shut it down. All my gages read fine, system check showed fine. I figured it was a simple check. Red oil light came on about when it shut down. I saw the light and slowed to pull over when it cut off. I did not try to drive 8 miles with the light on. It died about/less than 1/2 mile from the shop when the red oil light came on.

Glad to know that you stop you vehicle with any issues and have it towed to shop to be check. Your a better person than me. I just check gages and look it over when I get a chance, or drive it back to the shop it came from. Done it that way for many years with no issues. First time I ever dealt with issues at an oil change place or did not have a gage to show oil pressure.
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Old 01-03-2010, 10:33 PM   #69
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Quote:
Engine oil pressure: Illuminates
when the oil pressure falls below the
normal range, refer to Engine oil in
the Maintenance and
Specifications chapter.
Thats all the owners manual says about the light. Maintenance and
Specifications chapter just covers checking the dip stick and type of oil.

Engine check light has warnings attached for blinking only.
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Old 01-04-2010, 01:45 AM   #70
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Blinking engine light is a Type A misfire, which if you drive the vehicle long enough under this condition, you will irreparably damage the catalyst system.

Oil light means SHUT IT DOWN NOW and check oil level.

Many, many folks do not understand that oil is the lifeblood of your engine, and think it can be ignored for a while before getting the issue fixed.

I once had a junkbox Mitsubishi (from the makers of PEARL HARBOR!) come in that failed state inspection for "exhaust leak". Exhaust was fine. Engine was 3 quarts low. Engine was rattling like a sumbitch. Owner was clueless. *facepalm*
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