Let me start this with saying the UPR "bolt in" manual brake conversion is an absolute joke if you want to do it right
. I should have just built my own stuff and not tried to take the easy way out. The problem with it is... it's all designed around somebody to not know a dang thing about what they are doing. If you want to just bolt it on, not modify your brake pedal for the correct amount of leverage and want the brake pedal to feel like you're trying to push a rock through concrete, this is the setup for you... after you machine the block to accept the stud in your factory pedal assembly that is. However, if you don't want your brakes to work/feel like crap, this is the solution that I came to.
Just to refresh your memory...
Right off the bat, I realized that I wouldn't be able to bolt the adapter plate on the car because it used 4 studs and the factory pedal assembly has 1 stud welded in place with a spacer and some other nonsense. So, my solution for that was to drill out the hole and counterbore the plate so that I could put a nut on the stud.
After moving the pin on the pedal to increase leverage...
And moving this sensor up so that it wouldn't bottom out with the pedal pushed in...
I encountered this problem. The rod wasn't even close to being able to attach to the pin on the pedal.
That's when it started getting interesting. I could either bend the rod a couple of times and extend it or I could try to do it correctly. Well, I'm not much on half assing anything... so I did this instead.
First off, moved the mounting point for the master cylinder up so that the rod would be in line with the new pin location.
Pulled the master cylinder apart so that I could work on shortening the rod now that the master cylinder was in the right spot. It was fun trying to figure out how to get the snap ring out of that thing, lemme tell ya.
Now with the whole assembly out, I could break it down as far as I could possibly figure out how to. Notice you can see where the rod had already been cut apart and welded and then ground down.
I measured how far off the rod was from the pin, center to center, subtracted the thickness of the firewall sheet metal and then cut that much out of the center of the rod.
Beveled the rods, put everything together with some clamps and the vice and started tigging it back together.
All finished, getting ready to paint it.
Got it painted, threw it all together and boom, it went together like butter.
Then I went on to address the brake switch now that it was higher in the assembly. I cut the welds on the tube that the clutch pedal went through and had to cut away some of the cage in front of the pedal to give the switch free range of motion.
Here you can see how much of a gap is under the master cylinder since I moved it up. Nobody will probably ever notice it... but I'd much rather my brakes work correctly than not have that gap under the block. Eventually I might just make a new block, more than likely.
Putting it in the car... notice the precision stud lengths. Thanks UPR!
And what the engine bay currently looks like.
Far cry from where I started lol
It was way more of a pain in the ass than I initially expected... but thankfully it's all done. Next up, brake lines. Heads are milled and fixed up, just waiting for the new exhaust valves come in. I ordered a GoPro HD Hero 2 in anticipation of getting this thing done yesterday too =D
Anyway, that's where I'm at right now. Thanks for lookin!