JMS want me to fabricate another cone filter intake system and let them know the dimensions and distance from the MAF to the TB . They dont seem too interested in doing the tune with the factory air box. The air flow from the filter element to the TB is 100 % unaltered factory .I had to trim the lowest part of the box to fit inside the fender apron. I did have contact with the Ford engineer a while back and he OK'd the trimming that i had in mind, his only caution was to keep the air intake at the bottom of the air box away from the radiator fan flow.
So, did the tune from JMS fix the stalling completely ? and what about the bucking , surging rough at light throttle driving in traffic ? did the tune correct those issues ?
Yeah I would not want the stock airbox. I do not know why FRPP didn't offer a better setup then this - I guess they thought the airbox was good - it is fricken bulky if you ask me and who needs those odd shaped things that off shoot from the tube and box - Helmholtz resonator's - isnt that just for sound?
Anyway you can see my setup which is working well - maybe a little rich condition going on that can be remedied. But I have seen it flow up to 55 #/min. At least that is what the data logging showed.
At first we had a shorter tube and then it was a concern about fan wash affecting the MAF. So the tube itself was change for a longer one to put it over where my battery was located.
If you follow these instructions like it is in the guide then you can't go wrong.
1) Flow Profile: the MAF sensor should be located on a straight section of zip tube where the flow profile is generally uniform. If the sensor cannot be located on a straight section put the sensor on the outside radius of the zip tube so the sensor is located in the higher flow velocity area.
2) Flow Area: Keep the cross sectional area of the MAF sensor tube as close as possible to the cross sectional area of the original induction system.
3) Flow quality: minimize flow direction changes and maintain smooth tubing to minimize air flow disturbances and turbulence.
4) Flow pulsation: install sensor at least 6 to 8 inches upstream of the throttle body.
5) Transient performance: installing the sensor too far upstream of the throttle body (>24 inches) will result in transient lean/rich spikes due to the additional amount of time required for the measured air flow to travel from the
MAF sensor to the intake manifold.
6) MAF sensor contamination: A) install sensor in upper half of cross sectional area to minimize possibility of condensation coming in contact with the MAF sensor element. In other words, if a clock is superimposed on a
cross section of the zip tube, the sensor should be installed somewhere equal to or above the 9:00 and 3:00 positions. Most OEM applications have the sensor located at the 9:00 or 3:00 location. B) Sensor must be installed downstream of air filter and upstream of blow-by inlet. Ideally, sensor should be located 3 diameters upstream of the blow-by inlet.
Yeah the distance from TB to MAF sensor I guess is very important. They spent a lot of time getting this tune right - so they are trying to ensure it is as close as it gets to actually tuning your car on the dyno. You have the same engine and same PCM but maybe not same air intake so that becomes critical.
FRPP tech support did mention you. They said they even had a guy who had chopped up the bottom of the airbox and he was having issues - they used you as example stating how important it was for their airbox to be used unaltered.
I call BS on that. If you have the airbox in there and it is still stalling - it is still odd to me. Can you take a picture of how much you did change it?
BTW - i posted pics of my Air Intake setup - the short version and long final version in that other thread.