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Old 08-02-2011, 06:32 PM   #1
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Break in oil ?

I'm trying to figure out what I should do as far as oil for my first start-up/breakin. From what i've gathered a conventional oil but should I use a zinc/phosphorus additive or straight oil? and secondly should I use a 5w20 (what it calls for) or straight 30w or what ? This is a 2V with 12:1 CR. I know Nick prefers a diesel oil of some kind just don't want to half to pay $9.00 plus for Royal Purple's breakin oil which is mineral oil with additives I believe. Thanks
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Old 08-02-2011, 06:49 PM   #2
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Black bottle Havoline in 10w30 and a bottle of RedLine Break-In additive.

Red Line Synthetic Oil - Motor Oil for Racing - Engine Oil Break-In Additive


RedLine pisses all over Royal Purple garbage
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Old 08-02-2011, 07:18 PM   #3
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Hey, ARCANGL, what oil do you run for an everyday oil ?
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Old 08-02-2011, 08:21 PM   #4
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Red Line 10w30 with a Motocraft 820S filter

Red Line Synthetic Oil - Motor Oil - 10W30 Motor Oil

that stuff ^
i order it from Jegs though


edit...
if i ever get "stuck" and need something off-the-shelf, i use Pennzoil Ultra
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Old 08-02-2011, 09:06 PM   #5
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i use mobil 1. no issues
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Old 08-02-2011, 09:42 PM   #6
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Ya just wondered, curious though why a 10w30 instead of the 5w20 ford calls for?
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Old 08-02-2011, 09:42 PM   #7
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everyone i know uses amsoil dominator race oil...lol a little on the expensive side though
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Old 08-02-2011, 09:49 PM   #8
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i'm breaking mine in with cheap-o autozone oil for the first 2 oil changes. i will switch up to some better stuff on the next oil change.
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Old 08-02-2011, 09:56 PM   #9
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I thought about that while I was at "the zone" but didn't know if I should use an additive or not so I decided to wait and ask on here first.
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Old 08-03-2011, 12:15 AM   #10
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my first reply is the best break-in oil combo there is... I did a #### ton of research before I did mine.

ford calls for 5/20 but ur motor isn't stock ford, and that 5/20 they use has more to do with epa regs than anything else.

ask ur engine builder what you should use... But I'd bet they say 10/30 or 10/40 depending on the climate you live in.
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Old 08-03-2011, 12:22 AM   #11
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I've heard good from Brad Penn as far as a good zinc oil. Not sure if it's good for break in, but it's got zinc.
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Old 08-03-2011, 12:31 AM   #12
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I use straight 30w Rotella....and a Ford filter.
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Old 08-03-2011, 01:04 AM   #13
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my first post i stated what i use after break in. for break in i used shell brand conventional 5w-20. babied the engine for different cycles of break in.

20 minute break warm up cycle then changed
100 mile break in
250 mile break in
1500 mile break in
2500 break in.

i went through cases of oil and babied the whole time.
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Old 08-03-2011, 01:22 AM   #14
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a lot of that can depend on ring material as well. Moly rings take much muc longer to break in than stainless rings
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Old 08-03-2011, 09:15 AM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 04Ryan View Post
I use straight 30w Rotella....and a Ford filter.

All that needs to be said for a street driving car..................
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Old 08-03-2011, 09:27 AM   #16
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For break in shouldnt a cheap oil be used to seat everything? Granted you might only run it for 500-1000 miles but wont a high end synthetic prevent spinning parts from seating in? Thats what ive always been told. Ive never had to break in an engine though. I do run Mobil 1 though.
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Old 08-03-2011, 09:35 AM   #17
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A cheap oil with high antiwear additive levels - basically any diesel spec now that the EPA has crushed the limit allowed for passenger car rated oil. Here is a good read on oil, I learned most from a GM powertrain engineer of all people:

Nicks thoughts on oils and filters for mod motors
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Old 08-03-2011, 10:05 AM   #18
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I used Havoline 10w30.....it is thinner than piss! Breaks an engine in REAL quick!
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Old 08-03-2011, 10:21 AM   #19
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I just go with 10w 30, Pennzoil in my case, same thing I run. Crank it, check for good oil pressure, let it get some temp, then romp it once down the street. (Ring Seat) Then you can commence to smoothly "baby" it through the break in RPM ranges. First Change @ 500miles, Second at 1250. I call that broken in. That's just me
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Old 08-03-2011, 11:06 AM   #20
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ARCANGL I am my engine builder, so you see the problem. Anyway I realize my engine isn't stock I just always heard that the 5w20 was recommended because of the "Tighter tolerences" the mod engine has thats why I asked.
Holiver2000 That BradPenn oil is what they have by the pallett at my machine shop,I think that is made more for flat tappett/roller engines though but not 100% on that.

I always swore by Mobile 1 full synt. because my 89GT ran about 5 degrees cooler with it, but I have been using Motorcrafts synth. 5w20/GF5 SM oil. This was an everyday oil though. I think i'll go with the havoline 10w30 for breakin w/additives for break-in.

Last edited by The Stallion mang; 08-03-2011 at 11:16 AM.
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Old 08-03-2011, 11:27 AM   #21
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the 5/20 is more about emissions, fuel mileage, etc...

why do you think some Honda's run a 0 weight... its not because of tight clearances.


as far as M1 is concerned, i also used to swear by the stuff, but its not the same formula as it used to be... when Exxon bought out Mobil, the oil changed from what i understand.
If you do some research, M1 was having some high levels of start-up wear in testing.
Pennzoil Platinum was the best off-the-shelf oil there was, until they released their Ultra line. Which is why i use it in a pinch.
Amsoil is good stuff, but only some of it... and im not all that well spoken about their stuff. Usually though, its very good for extended drain intervals, but for normal intervals, Red Line still smashes it.
Royal Purple is expensive piss, same base stocks as M1 and other normal synthetics.

Nick likes diesel oil because it has high levels of cleansing agents compared to oil geared towards gas engines. I dont recall why, weather it be extended drain intervals on diesels, or their higher carbon output... but its true. Diesel oil def has more cleansing properties than most oils.
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Old 08-03-2011, 11:38 AM   #22
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Hey do they carry the Redline break-in additive at "the zone". Or does it have to be ordered? Going to pick up the havoline today.
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Old 08-03-2011, 11:39 AM   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by The Stallion mang View Post
ARCANGL I am my engine builder, so you see the problem. Anyway I realize my engine isn't stock I just always heard that the 5w20 was recommended because of the "Tighter tolerences" the mod engine has thats why I asked.
Holiver2000 That BradPenn oil is what they have by the pallett at my machine shop,I think that is made more for flat tappett/roller engines though but not 100% on that.

I always swore by Mobile 1 full synt. because my 89GT ran about 5 degrees cooler with it, but I have been using Motorcrafts synth. 5w20/GF5 SM oil. This was an everyday oil though. I think i'll go with the havoline 10w30 for breakin w/additives for break-in.

Break her in on the piss thin Havoline...change that out quick....I do a few hundred miles.....then go to a better 5w20 conventional...do another oil change at 1000 miles...to FULL synthetic ( I like Mobil 1 EP or Amsoil) ..you are golden.

RUN GOOD FILTERS....I suggest Motorcraft 820's.
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Old 08-03-2011, 11:41 AM   #24
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Ya ill be using MC filters. ALWAYS
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Old 08-03-2011, 11:43 AM   #25
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RUN GOOD FILTERS....I suggest Motorcraft 820's.
Yes, yes, yes. Change filters even more often than oil during break-in if you are the super paranoid type.
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Old 08-03-2011, 11:43 AM   #26
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ARCANGL View Post
the 5/20 is more about emissions, fuel mileage, etc...

why do you think some Honda's run a 0 weight... its not because of tight clearances.


as far as M1 is concerned, i also used to swear by the stuff, but its not the same formula as it used to be... when Exxon bought out Mobil, the oil changed from what i understand.
If you do some research, M1 was having some high levels of start-up wear in testing.
Pennzoil Platinum was the best off-the-shelf oil there was, until they released their Ultra line. Which is why i use it in a pinch.
Amsoil is good stuff, but only some of it... and im not all that well spoken about their stuff. Usually though, its very good for extended drain intervals, but for normal intervals, Red Line still smashes it.
Royal Purple is expensive piss, same base stocks as M1 and other normal synthetics.

Nick likes diesel oil because it has high levels of cleansing agents compared to oil geared towards gas engines. I dont recall why, weather it be extended drain intervals on diesels, or their higher carbon output... but its true. Diesel oil def has more cleansing properties than most oils.


If you want an education on motor oil: go to the bobistheoilguy website. I strongly encourage everyone to read the very informative articles written by the Surgeon and Ferrari Racer: Dr. A. E. Hauss.

Mobil 1 has been split into two groups of synthetic now...standard and extended performance (EP)....the EP is the equivalant of the "old" formula M1 synth...it is good ####, but $$$$$$. The regular M1 will still do what we need it to.

In my experience....Amsoil makes the best oil of any in North America...it is a bit hard to get and is $$$ as well. You are VERY misinformed about redline being better....I have seen hundreds of 4 ball wear tests that CLEARLY show Amsoil is much superior to Redline in wear protection.

Currently:I run whatever synthetic I can get on sale in my daily drivers, Mobil 1 synth in my 2003 GT Vert, and ONLY Mobil 1 EP in my 1967 GT.
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Last edited by 67mike; 08-03-2011 at 11:46 AM.
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Old 08-03-2011, 11:43 AM   #27
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Quote:
Originally Posted by The Stallion mang View Post
Hey do they carry the Redline break-in additive at "the zone". Or does it have to be ordered? Going to pick up the havoline today.
Ive never looked for it, bu i would doubt it. Dont think AutoZone would be a dealer for Red Line.
I use Jegs, takes a day to get my stuff.

And one bottle will do two oil changes... so use half then when you change that oil at 500ish miles and you can use the rest of it for the next interval.
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Old 08-03-2011, 11:48 AM   #28
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alright cool i'll check at the performance shop here. thanks man
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Old 08-03-2011, 11:50 AM   #29
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I just looked it up and they are a dealer, them and Orileys,advanced auto parts,ect,ect. I thought I saw somthing there from them before.
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Old 08-03-2011, 11:51 AM   #30
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sweet... they dont down here AFAIK. Orielly's has RP, but thats it.
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Old 08-03-2011, 12:02 PM   #31
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You might be able to ask for it, i don't know maybe save you some shipping or somthing somtime.
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Old 08-03-2011, 12:59 PM   #32
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i like redline oil but like i mentioned to OP their MT-90 tranmission fluid was as good as snake oil in my jeeps ax15 trans. but i do like their engine oil, here in oregon it is available at baxter auto parts but ive never seen it anywhere else.
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Old 08-03-2011, 01:19 PM   #33
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Tried to get the havoline (texico/chevron product) and I can't get here, my local parts stores can't even get it. So i'll have to just use a cheap conventional. Hey ARCANGL what was it you found out about havoline that made it a better choice, lower detergents that degrade the additive or somthing like that? any second choice?
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Old 08-03-2011, 02:09 PM   #34
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Tried to get the havoline (texico/chevron product) and I can't get here, my local parts stores can't even get it. So i'll have to just use a cheap conventional. Hey ARCANGL what was it you found out about havoline that made it a better choice, lower detergents that degrade the additive or somthing like that? any second choice?
Try penzoil conventional.

KEY IS: use GOOD Motorcraft filters...change the oil after MAX of 200 miles....then swith in some more decent conventional oil oil....at 1000 miles switch to high quality synthetic oil.
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Old 08-03-2011, 02:31 PM   #35
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Quote:
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Nick likes diesel oil because it has high levels of cleansing agents compared to oil geared towards gas engines. I dont recall why, weather it be extended drain intervals on diesels, or their higher carbon output... but its true. Diesel oil def has more cleansing properties than most oils.


Actually Nick likes diesel for the higher concentrations of antiwear additives that the EPA won't allow in passenger car rated oil anymore. Most diesel oil is basically racing oil with high amounts of cleaning agents at half to 1/3 the price. Old schoolers with flat tappet cams its the only oil that will keep the cam from wiping the lobes anymore.

And yes 20W is speced for fuel economy EPA stuff as its about 0.5MPG more than a 40W (I did that test myself) However the Shelby motor has the same clearances and specs 50W so that tells you tighter tolerances and clearances is just internet folklore.
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