Clutch pedal safety switch... - Ford Mustang Forums : Corral.net Mustang Forum
 
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post #1 of 25 Old 02-28-2007, 12:55 AM Thread Starter
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Clutch pedal safety switch...

Is there a way to adjust the safety switch that keeps the car ('90 GT) from starting unless the clutch pedal is depressed? I have to press my clutch HARD to the floor or my car won't start, and I'd like to fix it to where it takes a little less effort to operate. Also where is this switch located? Is it mounted to the pedal assembly under the dash?

Thanks,
J. Campbell


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post #2 of 25 Old 02-28-2007, 01:10 AM
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Last edited by Saleen0679; 02-28-2007 at 02:55 PM.
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post #3 of 25 Old 02-28-2007, 04:46 AM Thread Starter
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Thanks! That's what I needed to see.

'90 Mustang GT 25th anniversary 308ci, Holley heads/intake, Lunati cam, 70mm TB, C&L, Tremec, welded frame connectors, 3.55s.....
'06 Dodge Ram 1500 2wd Quad cab 4.7L V8,
'06 Harley FXSTI Softail,
'99 Kawasaki ZX9R Ninja
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post #4 of 25 Old 10-27-2009, 10:23 PM
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Bumping an old thread, but it had good info.

My Clutch switch has gone bad, and i need to remove it. I can't figure out at all how to get it off the pedal assembly,

Anyone got an up close picture of one so i can see how it comes off? My view under the dash doesn't show me much, and i can't seem to figure it out.

Mike
--1988 Mustang LX 5.0--
--2006 Infiniti G35x--
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post #5 of 25 Old 10-27-2009, 10:33 PM
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You have to click on the image to enlarge it. I don't know what's going on but all my thumbnails aren't working the way they used to. Now you have to click on the image three separate times before it becomes full size.
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post #6 of 25 Old 10-27-2009, 10:36 PM
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I can see the pic, and it gives great info on how to adjust it.


But how do you remove the ENTIRE switch from the pedal assembly. I can't quite figure that out and the pictures just gets too pixelated when i zoom in that far to see

Mike
--1988 Mustang LX 5.0--
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post #7 of 25 Old 10-28-2009, 12:21 AM
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Starter/Clutch Interlock Switch

Removal

1. Disconnect wiring connector.
2. Remove retaining pin from clutch pedal.
3. Remove switch bracket retaining screw.
4. Lift switch and bracket assembly upward to disengage tab from pedal support.
5. Move switch outward to disengage actuating rod eyelet from clutch pedal pin. Remove switch from vehicle.


Installation

NOTE:
Always install the switch with the self-adjusting clip about 25.4mm (1 inch) from the end of the rod. The clutch pedal must be fully up (clutch engaged), otherwise the switch may be misadjusted.

1. Place eyelet end of rod onto pivot pin.
2. Swing switch assembly around, engage tab in top of pedal support, and line up hole in mounting boss with hole in bracket.
3. Install retaining screw.
4. Install retaining pin on clutch pedal.
5. Connect wiring connector.
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post #8 of 25 Old 10-28-2009, 07:51 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Saleen0679 View Post
Starter/Clutch Interlock Switch

Removal

1. Disconnect wiring connector.
2. Remove retaining pin from clutch pedal.
3. Remove switch bracket retaining screw.
4. Lift switch and bracket assembly upward to disengage tab from pedal support.
5. Move switch outward to disengage actuating rod eyelet from clutch pedal pin. Remove switch from vehicle.

Thanks

But that's the problem. I can't physically see where the screw is. It's a tough angle. Kinda why i was hoping someone had a pic of a pedal assembly out of car. Just need a quick visual

Mike
--1988 Mustang LX 5.0--
--2006 Infiniti G35x--
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post #9 of 25 Old 10-28-2009, 03:33 PM
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I think you might be looking too hard. I don't have any pics, but I took a look and there is a metal bracket coming off of the right side of the switch. The bracket mounts to the left side of a brace located between the clutch and brake pedal arms. There is a small sheet metal screw that comes in from right to left through the brace and bracket. The screw is fairly out in the open. If you look about an inch left of the stop light switch mounted on the brake pedal you should see the head of the screw.
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post #10 of 25 Old 10-31-2009, 08:08 PM
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Okay, well i got a little mirror and was able to figure out how it came off.

3/8" rachet on the nut on the left side top of the switch. Just had to loosen it and it came off by hand. Had it out in 2 min.

Tested it, and it's bad. Need a new one. Right now i'm jumping out both plugs with a blade fuse in the meantime


Mike
--1988 Mustang LX 5.0--
--2006 Infiniti G35x--
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post #11 of 25 Old 02-17-2013, 12:20 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mustang5L5 View Post
Okay, well i got a little mirror and was able to figure out how it came off.

3/8" rachet on the nut on the left side top of the switch. Just had to loosen it and it came off by hand. Had it out in 2 min.

Tested it, and it's bad. Need a new one. Right now i'm jumping out both plugs with a blade fuse in the meantime
hey I know its been awhile since this thread was created but just wondering what u ended up doing? I'm having to do the same thing with mine and thinking bout just jumpering out the switch for good depending on how much the switch is

95 v6 converted GT/Saleen. Ed per RPM 2, Special custom grind cam courtesy of Shaun Harrelson, TF Heads, 24 lb inj, 75 MM MA, 70 TB, Mac Shorties, Basani X, 2 cha flows. Tuned in 2014 with Chris Tuton
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post #12 of 25 Old 02-17-2013, 09:40 AM
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I ended up replacing the switch. Was in a junkyard one day and found a little 4-banger all gutted out with the switch exposed. Swapped it for my broken switch and it works fine.

Mike
--1988 Mustang LX 5.0--
--2006 Infiniti G35x--
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post #13 of 25 Old 02-17-2013, 12:26 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mustang5L5 View Post
I ended up replacing the switch. Was in a junkyard one day and found a little 4-banger all gutted out with the switch exposed. Swapped it for my broken switch and it works fine.
ok. I'm probably just gona jumper mine for the time being tho
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post #14 of 25 Old 02-17-2013, 02:06 PM
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Clutch pedal safety switch...

10Ablade fuse fits perfectly


Sent from my iPhone 4S using Tapatalk

Mike
--1988 Mustang LX 5.0--
--2006 Infiniti G35x--
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post #15 of 25 Old 02-17-2013, 03:32 PM
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10Ablade fuse fits perfectly


Sent from my iPhone 4S using Tapatalk
cool, but does it have to be a 10? It's not like its gona have a bearing as to power or load or anything right?
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post #16 of 25 Old 02-17-2013, 03:41 PM
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Clutch pedal safety switch...

Doesn't need to be 10a. Unjust happened to have tons of those and know they do work nicely


Sent from my iPhone 4S using Tapatalk

Mike
--1988 Mustang LX 5.0--
--2006 Infiniti G35x--
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post #17 of 25 Old 02-17-2013, 03:50 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mustang5L5 View Post
Doesn't need to be 10a. Unjust happened to have tons of those and know they do work nicely


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just unplugged the black connector, and the grey connector. Do I jump the 2 together?
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post #18 of 25 Old 02-17-2013, 05:29 PM
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Jump them separately, unless you want a fried computer. So 2 fuses, one for each connector.

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Tuner: QuarterHorse, BE & EA, AEM Wideband
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post #19 of 25 Old 02-17-2013, 05:56 PM
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Jump them separately, unless you want a fried computer. So 2 fuses, one for each connector.
reading some things on google, it appears the black connector is for the speed sensor. I just plugged it back in. Not sure what function the speed sensor would have needed to be on that switch for. If I notice any other things I will just jumper that one as well
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post #20 of 25 Old 02-17-2013, 06:04 PM
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Black connector is the starting circuit. Grey or clear colored connector is for neutral sensing for the ECM.

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post #21 of 25 Old 02-17-2013, 07:12 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by liljoe07 View Post
Black connector is the starting circuit. Grey or clear colored connector is for neutral sensing for the ECM.
well I jumpered the black one and car wouldn't start. Jumpered the grey one and it did

95 v6 converted GT/Saleen. Ed per RPM 2, Special custom grind cam courtesy of Shaun Harrelson, TF Heads, 24 lb inj, 75 MM MA, 70 TB, Mac Shorties, Basani X, 2 cha flows. Tuned in 2014 with Chris Tuton
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post #22 of 25 Old 02-17-2013, 07:55 PM
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Typically it looks like this


Black is usually the starting circuit. And everyone I have seen is that way. Apparently yours is different.

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post #23 of 25 Old 02-17-2013, 08:26 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by liljoe07 View Post
Typically it looks like this


Black is usually the starting circuit. And everyone I have seen is that way. Apparently yours is different.
I doubt the car originally being a v6 would have anything to do with it but knowing ford you never know lol

95 v6 converted GT/Saleen. Ed per RPM 2, Special custom grind cam courtesy of Shaun Harrelson, TF Heads, 24 lb inj, 75 MM MA, 70 TB, Mac Shorties, Basani X, 2 cha flows. Tuned in 2014 with Chris Tuton
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post #24 of 25 Old 02-17-2013, 09:26 PM
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I doubt the car originally being a v6 would have anything to do with it but knowing ford you never know lol
I looked at your sig, and thought you may be talking about a 94/95. I looked at the OP, and seen 90. Didn't even pay attention that you weren't the OP! So.... I was talking about a Foxbody! LoL

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post #25 of 25 Old 02-17-2013, 09:30 PM
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I looked at your sig, and thought you may be talking about a 94/95. I looked at the OP, and seen 90. Didn't even pay attention that you weren't the OP! So.... I was talking about a Foxbody! LoL
gotcha..............no problem thanks for the help. If u get a minute check out my 331 thread and if you have any thoughts post there.
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