Try to start car, lose all electrical power, 5 seconds later everything works?!?!?!
A few weeks ago I got in my car and went to start the car.. I turn the key.. and nothing.. Like it had a dead battery... So I pop the hood, and open the door to get out.. when I was about to get out of the car the dome light comes out and the door dinger starts chiming.. it had just regained power all of the sudden.. So I get out and check the battery terminals.. everything is tight.. no battery leaks or anything.. get in and all my radio presets were gone.. the car physically lost all electrical power and then got it back. It started right up and didn't have any problems with it for weeks..
Fast forward to yesterday.. I get in my car to leave the parking garage.. put the key in the ignition.. turn it.. it cranks for 1/2 a second and then NOTHING.. it loses all electrical power again.. I open the door.. the dome light is NOT on.. go to get out of my car.. BAM the car regains power again.. Door chiming, dome light on.. I start the car.. again all my presets are gone.. so it lost ALL power again...
Is there a resettable main fuse on the car or something?
88 Mustang GT (AOD)(Speed density) **SOLD**
Full exhaust, and 3:55 gears, Homebrew AOD,
Best E.T to date 14.02 @ 98.7 Unofficial Baumann Spokesperson
have you checked the solonoid connection. even if the battery cables (on the battery) are tight the positive from the battery that goes to the solonoid (feeds power to everything) could be loose.
90 GT black, V2 SI-Trim, Blow-Thru A/A Intercooler
stage 3 "Y" heads/ Bennett Racing intake, TFS#1, long tubes, 3"Pro-Dumps/H-pipe, TKO500, 3.55's, Home made TA and PHB, cobra brakes, 22 gallon Fuel Safe Cell, PMS tuned etc.. built for twisties
For '93s there is a 20 amp "inline circuit breaker" which is always hot and sends power to windows, locks, seats, etc. Since power comes back when you step out of the car I wonder if you have an intermittent short in the drivers powers seat/lumbar circuit. Just a thought. The circuit breaker is located under the hood near the starter relay on the drivers’ fender (for 93s, as that is the only electrical manual that I have.
It sounds like the terminals need to be cleaned. I had the exact same problem. ( in the staging lane at the track). I had the same symptoms. i.e. total loss of power AFTER hitting the key... then after a few it would come back.
Romans 12:2 , 86 GT Bracket Car, 347 carbed/Vic jr's/Parker/ProSys 780/C-4,10.63 @ 125 bullets & Slicks, My dyno is 1320 ft. long. To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
Check your battery...Not just the Volts but have it load tested... A bad battery can have 12+ volts but when you put a load(starter) on it they drop down to about zero.Sounds like a bad battery cell to me.
"I know it's not safe up here, that's why they called us! Now cut that hole!"
I did not vote for Obama. To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts. Did you vote for obama?94 red gt vert: "Yes i did and glad i did."
I had the same problem. I cleaned my battery terminals and bought a new + side connector (the wire that connects to the battery terminal). Even though my old one was on there and tight it did what yours did. Now its fine.
Exact same thing happened to me. Turned out it was my power cable running from the + side of the better to the solenoid. Replaced the cable and, not only did the problem go away, my car starts much smoother now.
93 Vert AOD/GT40X/TFS intake/1.7s/73mm MAF/65mm TB/h-pipe/SFCs/4.10s/Tokico Blues/Hawk Pads