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post #1 of 13 Old 06-26-2006, 06:36 PM Thread Starter
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horn not working

I'm having a problem finding out why my horn isn't working. I've check/changed the 20A fuse and listen for the clicking of the horn relay under the dash but still no horn. I went and got a new horn and tried changing each horn and replaced it with the new one and still no progress. I even tried it on it's own. Do you need to have two horn in order for it to work? Also does the bracket which holds the stock horn acts as a ground?

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post #2 of 13 Old 06-27-2006, 01:41 AM Thread Starter
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The fuse seems to blow if i push the horn button to many times one after another but is ok is i only push it one? What could be the cause if this?

thanks,
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post #3 of 13 Old 06-27-2006, 02:41 AM
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At the relay, what do you read while pressing the horn button? You should have three 12 volt terminals and one ground, it seems to me.

Good luck.
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post #4 of 13 Old 06-28-2006, 05:18 PM Thread Starter
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At the relay it reads 12 volts when I press the button so that works fine. I fix the problem with the fuses blowing when pushing the horn button to many one after each other. The problem was the cigarette light which I just disconnected since i don't use it.

I still don't have to horns working and I got a second new horn. The stock horn much be working since I don't get anything honking with the two new once. Anyone have any other ideas?

I don't know if cruise control would affect the horn in any way.

thanks,
Kristopher

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Last edited by arnold22; 06-28-2006 at 05:22 PM.
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post #5 of 13 Old 06-28-2006, 05:36 PM Thread Starter
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update:

The wire which goes from the relay to the horn seems to be fine. I get current from one end to the other. I'm starting to think the realy itself may not be working properly any longer. Could that be the problem?

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post #6 of 13 Old 06-28-2006, 05:38 PM
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Where on the relay do you have 12v? The LB/W wire is always hot. You need 12v on the DB wire when you push the button for the horns to work. If you have 12v on the DB wire then the problem is the in the wiring from the relay to the horns or the horns themselves.
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post #7 of 13 Old 06-28-2006, 06:25 PM
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Saleen is a whiz with this stuff and can get you fixed.

As an aside, check inside the cig lighter receptacle for change (not a new perspective in life, but coins). That will cause a short.

Good luck.
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post #8 of 13 Old 06-28-2006, 06:26 PM Thread Starter
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i tested every option with the relay when pushing the horn button and here is what i got:

LB/W & DB = 12v
LB/ & Y/LG = 12v
Y/LG & DB = 0v

I disconnected the cigarette light so now it doesn't work and won't affect the fuse/circut and I got two new horn yesterday. Do you need to have two horn in order for it to work?

thanks,
Kristopher

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Last edited by arnold22; 06-28-2006 at 06:30 PM.
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post #9 of 13 Old 06-28-2006, 06:32 PM
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You must be using a meter between the wires. You need to take the readings while referencing a ground not between the different wires.
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post #10 of 13 Old 06-28-2006, 07:33 PM Thread Starter
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what's a good spot to use as ground inside the car near the horn relay?

thanks,
Kristopher


1989 Mustang hatchback GT
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Last edited by arnold22; 06-28-2006 at 08:01 PM.
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post #11 of 13 Old 06-28-2006, 08:22 PM
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Since your readings aren't that critical you should be able to grab just about anything metal. Try one of the braces under the dash area.
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post #12 of 13 Old 07-01-2006, 01:55 PM Thread Starter
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I figured out the problem with the horn issue. The wire from the relay to the horns had a short in it, i forgot the ground one of the horns and one of the two horn wasn't working.

thanks for all the help Saleen0679

Kristopher

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post #13 of 13 Old 07-01-2006, 08:29 PM
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Quite welcome. Glad you got it all figured out.
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