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Old 10-16-2004, 03:23 AM   #1
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DIY through floor subframes

thought I'd share

Prelim stuff here

2x3x0.120" subframe connectors...52" long at this point
The backsides will conjoin the rear subframe rail to the back of the lower torque box. The front of the connector will actually lay inside the subframe rail

Seat braces will be 1.5x1.5x0.080" square stock laying in notches cut into the subs

There will be kickers spanning from the main hoop and front cage footings to the subs...again 2x3" stuff

The holes in the floor will be replaced with fresh mild steel



















I finished cutting the floor...
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Old 10-16-2004, 03:24 AM   #2
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"notched" the 2x3 so it would drop down into the front subframe, leaving about 3/16" exposed above the front floor. This also dropped the rear quite a bit. The cut measures 1" front and 1 3/8" rear, 18" long to match the subframe.


Test fit


Here is now she sits after the notching!


Dropped in the rear


Shot from under the rear section


Just behind the front subframe


Smoothed up the floor a bit...shows the notch in relation to the floor/sub


Test fit with the seat all the way forward


all the way back...plenty of room


dirty seats!
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Old 10-16-2004, 03:25 AM   #3
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This cross brace will tie the subframe into the main hoop footing plate and main hoop bar once the cage is installed. This is a HUGE saftey enhancement over the typical setup with just a 6x6 plate for the main hoop, which can shoot through the floor if you DO actually roll the car.


Front will also have crossbraces for the front footings


Happy


Since I knew the seat as all squared away in terms of clearance, I could go forward today with the seat cross brace.

Seat cut for the 16x1.5x1.5x0.8something inch crossbrace


Crossbrace in possition


rear underside


Front underside, looking to the rear of the car...very minimal lost in ground clearance


Top view
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Old 10-16-2004, 03:32 AM   #4
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Nice! Now come do mine.
Saving to favorites.
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Old 10-17-2004, 10:03 AM   #5
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Nice! Now come do mine.
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Me too, Ill give you $2.00 and buy you lunch!
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Old 10-17-2004, 10:55 AM   #6
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Old 10-17-2004, 01:15 PM   #7
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great little write up and congrats they made it a sticky...
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Old 10-17-2004, 09:27 PM   #8
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Sweet! What are you gonna do for carpet?
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Old 10-18-2004, 11:31 AM   #9
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I'm going to modify the stock carpet to fit
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Old 10-19-2004, 02:48 PM   #10
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I did mine similar, yet a little less cutting...




Except, the rear part went THRU the torquebox (slipped inside the rear framerail).
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Old 10-21-2004, 09:14 PM   #11
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Should have came that way from the factory! Shweeeeet.....
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Old 10-24-2004, 12:32 AM   #12
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thats how i am going to do a set in my 89 notch and my friends 81 t-top notch..........
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Old 10-24-2004, 07:56 PM   #13
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Nice work. I want to do something just like that, except maybe drop the rear a bit more and stick some plywood in the rear footwells on either side, then you would never notice anything sticking up under the carpet. Also a crossmember for a torque arm and stronger transmission mounts anchored to the frame rails (those sheetmetal mounts will lose a battle with a tree stump lol)
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Old 10-25-2004, 05:16 PM   #14
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Good info! When you weld them up, what size MIG wire are you going to use?... or is Flux Core the better choice here?
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Old 10-27-2004, 08:24 AM   #15
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Nice writeup!

Just remember. If you install subs like that then you have modified the original floor
and the NHRA and IHRA mandate a rocker bar on the driver side when you install your cage.
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Old 11-02-2004, 12:20 AM   #16
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What's this done for, rigidity and safety? Are you "replacing" a smaller stock piece there or adding something completely new?
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Old 11-10-2004, 12:48 AM   #17
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So what's better here, doing one's like in the Griggs Racing kit, that end at the bulkhead. Or one's that go through it and into the rear frame rail beside the LCA, like in that mustang performance handbook 2 or whatever it is.

For those that have done it, is it a real head ache to do the later? Or is it easier than it looks? Anyone else with anymore pics. I'm looking at starting mine right away so any info would be great.
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Old 11-10-2004, 08:21 AM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by StarvinMarcus
So what's better here, doing one's like in the Griggs Racing kit, that end at the bulkhead. Or one's that go through it and into the rear frame rail beside the LCA, like in that mustang performance handbook 2 or whatever it is.

For those that have done it, is it a real head ache to do the later? Or is it easier than it looks? Anyone else with anymore pics. I'm looking at starting mine right away so any info would be great.
I actually did BOTH...
I did mine thru the framerail, so it is supported over a longer span. I also added a plate to the rear bulkhead, and welded that on there at the same time.

As for "Real headache to do later...". YEAH! I installed subframes (undercar), then installed my rollcage. Only THEN, I went back and cut out the subframes, and added thru-the-floor ones. That was a pain to work around the jungle-gym of rollcage...


Get a plan, and do it right the first time.
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Old 11-10-2004, 07:07 PM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by drudis
I actually did BOTH...
I did mine thru the framerail, so it is supported over a longer span. I also added a plate to the rear bulkhead, and welded that on there at the same time.

As for "Real headache to do later...". YEAH! I installed subframes (undercar), then installed my rollcage. Only THEN, I went back and cut out the subframes, and added thru-the-floor ones. That was a pain to work around the jungle-gym of rollcage...


Get a plan, and do it right the first time.
Yeah I'm defintaly making sure I do it before I get the cage in. And I was thinking of adding a plate to the bulkhead too. So maybe thats what I'll do then.
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Old 02-21-2005, 10:09 AM   #20
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Old 02-21-2005, 10:53 AM   #21
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Yea...I just had my chassis guy do mine and tie everything into the roll bar..The car is super stiff now.
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Old 03-14-2005, 02:39 PM   #22
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Finally got my welder! I'll be finishing these up and adding more pictures as time allows.

Also, I'm installing fabricated lower torque boxes once the subframes are finished...I'll make a pictorial with blueprints for that as well
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Old 03-29-2005, 04:33 PM   #23
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back at it!

starting on the drivers side now

I cut an access hole to locate the sides of the subframe and draw out the cut lines from there


Cut...note that on a 4 banger there is a reinforcement within the subframe for a bracket...this needs to be removed


this is how I've been measuring up the seat crossmember cuts...you can also use a square/straight edge combo, but I couldn't find mine lol


The floor under the seat crossmember needs to be cut using a 7" angle grinder with cutting wheel, or a sawzall


the areas with missing floor board have been cut out or rusted through...they'll be patched with sheet after the subs are welded

btw, this is the coupe
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Old 03-29-2005, 05:40 PM   #24
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Awesome. I wish I had the resources to do something like that. I'll probably end up with MM full lengths and a roll bar for looks.
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Old 03-29-2005, 09:27 PM   #25
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I just wish I had that my space. I've done mine now to, it took about 3 weeks total. But I did it in a single car garage that has two cars in it. Plus it was between -20 and -30 degrees the whole time.
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Old 03-29-2005, 11:38 PM   #26
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Matt,

Looks nice, have you thought about putting a piece into the rear subframe? We did that on my Futura. It goes in the rear sub about 6". Really ties everything in nice.

Here's a link to pictures of mine.

http://photos.yahoo.com/jbozzelle

Also, I don't think you'll need that sill bar for NHRA cert. Mine never had it and it was certed 2 twice over a 6 year period. I know of a few cars where this was ok without a sill bar.
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Old 03-30-2005, 05:22 AM   #27
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Yeah I've thought about it, but don't know what I'm going to do yet back there since I have fabricated lower torque boxes to install as well....things might get tricky lol
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Old 04-02-2005, 06:44 PM   #28
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tbox from subframe


ssm tbox laying over the stocker


ssm tbox laying over the stocker


Going to run a 2x2 section between the tbox and sfc
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Old 08-16-2005, 12:02 AM   #29
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Any more pic and updates? very informative. Keep up the good work.
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Old 08-16-2005, 02:56 AM   #30
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Great job. As a former chassis builder, I have to compliment you on doing it correctly. I like to lay the 2x3 flat for less of a bulge inside the car, but other than that you did an excellent job, make sure you tie it into the cage, weld it to the floor(I have seen guys actually just weld the ends and use caulk along the floor???) and you will need a side sill plate bar on your cage since you modified the original floor. Great thread dude!!
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Old 08-16-2005, 08:36 AM   #31
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Nice write up man. I know a guy that make some nice look throught floor conectors. Let us know how them work
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Old 12-08-2009, 06:16 PM   #32
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man where is the rest of this thread??
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Old 12-08-2009, 06:47 PM   #33
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HOLY OLD THREAD BATMAN!!!!

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man where is the rest of this thread??
He sold it/scraped it and bought a running/driving 5.0 with basic bolt on mods.
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Old 01-27-2010, 01:08 AM   #34
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ttt!!!! i just cut the hack job cage out of my notch, want to run 8.80s 155+ traps. going with a 10 point cage but i want to do the threw floor connectors. any one have any more pics?
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Old 01-27-2010, 08:22 AM   #35
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Quote:
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...any one have any more pics?
Whats wrong with the first 20 photos...
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