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Old 08-21-2003, 07:57 AM   #1
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How to remove/replace u-joints in driveshaft?

I need to replace the u-joints in my driveshaft. Is it difficult to replace them. Any tips on how to replace them. Thanks. I have an 83' 5.0.
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Old 08-21-2003, 08:59 AM   #2
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The ujoints are pressed into the driveshaft so you'd have to unbolt them and if you don't have a press, take them to a shop have them pressed out and the new ones pressed in. Most people recommend you just buy an FMS aluminum driveshaft instead since it's a good thing to have (lighter and less vibration) which comes with the ujoints already attached - making it a bolt-on addition. That's what I'm in the process of doing. Also, the bolts are tough to get out - people recommend using a pipe for leverage (with a 12point 12mm wrench) or a torch to heat up the bolts.
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Old 08-21-2003, 11:30 AM   #3
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Ok, thanks. Do you have to drain the transmission fluid to remove it?
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Old 08-21-2003, 11:53 AM   #4
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You don't need a press. You can use an impact socket and a hammer and the caps come right out. I do it all the time. A significant amount of trans fluid will spill out when you slide the driveshaft out... but if you're quick with a rag to stuff in it, won't be too much.
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Old 08-21-2003, 12:19 PM   #5
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Great. Thanks. If I can do it without a press that is great. I don't mind losing a little fluid. I can always add what came out.
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Old 08-21-2003, 01:12 PM   #6
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if the front end is jacked up at all when you pull the driveshaft, it is going to DUMP fluid out. Be prepared to catch it. When was the last time you did a fluid change anyhow?? Would suggest doing a fluid change while you are under their.

FYI, the aluminum driveshafts come with heavy duty u joints already installed. If you plan on changing out your gears or anything in the future, it may just be easiest to go pick up an alum driveshaft.
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Old 08-21-2003, 06:36 PM   #7
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yeah it's only 160. I will drain my tranny when I do it because I'm going to replace that rear seal while I'm under there, why not?
If I jack the rear end up significantly more than the front will it still pour out?
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Old 08-21-2003, 06:48 PM   #8
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You can borrow this tool from AutoZone and press them out easily:



http://www1.autozone.com/servlet/UiB...oint_press.jsp
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Old 08-21-2003, 07:04 PM   #9
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You should be alright, as long as the rear is higher than the front.

$160 isn't too bad, when you factor in the facts of the time and $ spent on new ujoints, installing them, etc. In some cases the d/s yoke is messed up like mine, and causes that tranny seal to go out.

In your case I am sure you will be fine, I just suggested it because in the long run it will save you $, and time.
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Old 08-21-2003, 07:34 PM   #10
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If you take it to a shop and have it done professionally it will run between 100-150 depending on where you go. It is really a no brainer to replace the D/s. I would alos replace the fluid at the same time. It can't hurt to do it anyway. If you jack the car up from the back only you won't loose any fluid. Just remeber not to use the rear to jack it up. You need to support the car just in front of the rear wheels with jack stands. The rear needs to be hanging to remove the d/s. If it is in an upright position the pinion angle will make it almost impossible to remove.
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Old 08-21-2003, 07:40 PM   #11
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Just FYI for anyone reading this. Strange has been advertising in the magazines chrome-moly driveshaft kits for $198. They look pretty good:

http://www.strangeengineering.net/catalog/101.html

Part number U1699 in their ad.
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Old 08-22-2003, 08:25 AM   #12
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Hrmm.. My driveshaft turns about half a turn in each direction when I turn it by hand. Is that normal? That strange crmoly setup looks NICE!
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