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Wandering steering

5K views 16 replies 8 participants last post by  PACMKR 
#1 ·
I originally posted in the "Road racing/Auto x" forum, but felt that it might be better suited here,,

Little problem that I'm trying to diagnose. I have a 79 Pace Car, that I've updated everything on. It now has a 2003 Cobra rack, the MM steering shaft, caster/camber plates, and 95 model spindles with Cobra brakes. The power steering pump, and lines, have also been replaced. All of the struts, ball joints, bushings, and inner/outer tie rod ends are even new.
Even after having the front end aligned, the car wanders while driving in a straight line. It's almost like it has a dead spot in the steering,, I already replaced the steering rack twice (once with a Ford unit, and then a AGR unit) because of this issue, but the problem is still there. It's really frustrating because I can't figure it out, and the car just feels like it's not "in the road" and I feel it should be. It feels like it's on top of the road, and has no sure footing.
The only thing that the car doesn't have is a bumpsteer kit,, just wondering if that's the root of the problem, because the tie rods appear to have a pretty good angle to them.
Please Help !!
 
#3 ·
The thing that's missing is the bumpsteer kit. It already has the offset bushings. Wondering if not having the bumpsteer kit is what makes it wander like a gypsy, even while driving in a straight line, on a smooth road.

I ordered steering rack #3, this morning.
 
#4 ·
Checked the rear suspension and torque boxes lately?
 
#5 ·
I have,, all of the suspension, front and rear, is new. The rear boxes were tight and didn't have any cracks or tears. The bolts were even tight in the bolt holes.

I believe it all may be in the front end though. With both steering racks, so far, there feels like there is a huge dead spot in the wheel. There is slack in the steering wheel, from center to either side, with any input. I hope that made sense, as I'm not sure how to more accurately describe it without the hand motions (like I'm holding the steering wheel).
 
#6 ·
Throw away the offset rack bushings. With a stock k-member and stock ball joints, they are only going to create bumpsteer.

The following is a two person job.

Put the front of the car up on ramps. Have someone sit in the car with the engine off. Have them turn the steering wheel back and forth, just within the zone where they can feel this play. NO further.

Lay under the front of the car. Look at the steering column, the steering shaft and the input shaft of the rack. One of these pieces is going to be rotating, while the other parts downstream will not be rotating.

The upper pinch bolt may not be tight enough to clamp the steering shaft. The steering shaft bolt at the bottom of the steering shaft could be installed from the wrong side.

There is virtually zero chance that the steering rack is the problem.

If the car has tilt steering, the play could be in the column at the top.

Take a photo of your complete alignment sheet and post it here.

A bumpsteer kit is a complete waste of money unless you are going to take the time to bumpsteer the front suspension. This is just like replacing the distributor in an engine and not timing the ignition afterwards. The engine will probably run worse.
 
#7 ·
After you have done all the things that Jack suggests then I would question who did the alignment and what specs is your car set to. I would set .5 negative camber and 4 degrees positive caster Then set 1/8 total toe in After that what kind of tires do you have? I have seen tires be the entire problem
 
#8 ·
I don't have the alignment spec sheet,, slipped my mind to get them to print it out. After I install rack #3, I'll have it aligned again just to make sure everything is set. I'll see where it sits and see how close it is to what Capri_5.8 suggests.

The steering shaft is tight (Maximum Motorsports piece), and moves from any slight wiggle of the steering wheel (checked that when rack #2 went it).
 
#9 ·
I had the same issue and it was the upper pinch bolt not being tight enough. When I did the install, I used a ratchet and wrench on the pinch bolt. I had a fairly big dead spot where I could rock the wheel an inch of center and not get movement in the rack.

Got an impact on the pinch bolt and really sucked it down, and problem was solved. Now any movement in the steering wheel translates to instant movement in the rack.
 
#10 ·
as you go more negative on the camber adjustment going around a curve plants one tire firmly on the ground for better handling so that's why around .5 to -1 camber adjustment and the more positive the caster angle the better cause when driving faster like freeway speeds it won't be twitchy and toe adjustment is just a little to prevent premature tire wear
 
#11 ·
Thanks for all of the advice,, a couple of days ago, while my son was here, I managed to really squirm my up from the bottom, so I could see the pinch bolt better (yes, it was tightened down with a ratchet and box end). I had my son wiggle the steering wheel and could see some play in that joint.
Anyhoo, rack #3 has arrived (remember, new rack #2 was leaking at a seal),, I'll install them this weekend, then tighten the begeezus out of the pinch bolt, with an impact. going to go ahead and re-replace the steering pump too. seemed like a perfect time to warranty that 3-month old whine box !!

Then, off to the alignment shop,,, again !! Thanks again everyone, I'll keep you posted on the final outcome
 
#12 ·
Be careful that impact doesn't make that bolt into 2 pieces.
 
#14 ·
WooHooooo !!! Took an impact and tightened the begeezus out of the bolt that goes though where the MM steering shaft mates (the male/female fitting, not the splined piece) to the factory column,, totally different car now !! Thank you again for the direction
 
#16 ·
Well,, everything was replaced. Rack #2 was warrantied for a leaking seal, the 3 month old power steering pump was also replaced (because it whined louder than a wife), and the steering shaft came out and went back in (not easy to do, since everything was pretty tight already). All of the bolts on the shaft were tightened with an impact, just short of snapping in 2,, now I have a quiet pump and no play in the wheel. Not sure of any specific reason, other than it decided to cooperate. Maybe reminding the car what I had spent on it so far, then questioning its lineage helped. Hahaha
 
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