Ford Mustang Forums banner

Need help- clutch cable kicking me in balls

2K views 35 replies 15 participants last post by  SilverSmith82 
#1 ·
I just put on a new adjustable clutch cable. Got it all adjusted at firewall and feel seemed good.

When I went to put on the clutch fork cover to take if for test drive I can't get the cover on because the threaded stud from the clutch cable blocks the cover from going on:confused:

I'm confused. If I back off the nut on the threaded bolt at the clutch fork it will make the bolt longer and I've already got the nut using up almost all the threads (toward front of car).

Suggestions? Should I keep backing off on the nut at clutch fork and back the adjuster at the firewall way out? Adjuster at firewall is already backed out about 1 inch.
 
#4 ·
I'm confused, you have the nut using up almost all of the threads towards the front of the car and if you back that off it will make the stud longer? It should shorten the stud.
I would back the threaded cable bolt off until you can fit the cover on and just make up the slack with the firewall adjuster. You can back the firewall adj out quite a bit, an inch out is nothing.
 
#6 ·
No, quadrant is aluminum but only one slot.

Car shifting best I've ever had it, not hard clutch pedal and disengages at about half pedal travel. Just can't get damn cover back on.
 
#7 ·
Get rid of the adjustable cable and get a Maximum Motorsports cable. You won't be disappointed.

Sent from my S4
 
#9 ·
I'll get a pic in the morning. Just went for 30 mile ride. Seems to shift good except I get a teeny amount of grind when shifting into 5th gear. All other gears it shifts smooth. Not sure why 5th would be like this and not other gears.
 
#10 ·
Here's pictures of adjustment at the clutch fork. You can see as-is the threaded stud is long and makes it impossible to get the dust cover on.

The clutch feels good and I like the engagement point. Compared to previous cable, this is one doesn't have the rock hard feel.

However, the current adjustment results in a grind when going into 5th. All other gears it has smooth shifting.

Going to have to find a shop that can get me straightened out so I don't burn up my clutch and T5z which are nearly brand new.
 

Attachments

#13 ·
That's what I am talking about, back that nut off some. For one thing it appears in the pic that the clutch fork has too much tension on it anyway. Back that nut off till there is some slack in cable/or cover fits whichever comes first, then take up slack from the FWA and go from there. The 5th gear grinds is probably a result of the adj not being right.
And for what's its worth, as kjb stated, I would have just went with a complete kit from MM instead of mix matching parts together. Clutch cable set ups are one of those things that don't cost a fortune for the best parts and are directly related to long clutch/synchro life and driving experience quality. $150 or so for a complete MM kit can be offset by selling what you already have. Some guys don't mind dicking around with stiff pedals, broken cables and frequent clutch adjustments. Me, I got more important things to worry about...for or a guy with a brand new clutch and trans, you should too. Just my .02, good luck getting it sorted out.
 
#12 ·
who made the cable? what kind of quad are you running? who made the fwa? Instead of mixing parts you should have got a complete kit from steeda or mm. Opinions will vary on this one I'm sure.

what was the length of the cable compared to the old one?
Did you install the tranny? Is the throwout bearing correctly installed? Kinda hard to mess that up but #### happens sometimes.
 
#16 ·
If you adjust the clutch cable as loose as possible but just tight enough to be able to pull it in any gear with the engine running while stopped, especially reverse without grinding, that is all the gap you need.

A certain fixed gap value when depressed might not work with all clutches.

If the clutch cable has firm tension when released when the cable is set so you can get it in gear, then you need to look at stuff.
 
#17 ·
Most of the adjustable clutch cables do not allow the clutch fork cover to be reinstalled. You could cut part of the all thread on the end of the cable off. Make sure that you do this with a nut on the stud so that it will help straighten the threads when you remove the nut.

If you have a firewall adjuster, there is no reason to also have an adjustable clutch cable.
 
#21 ·
You sure it ruined it or are they just telling you that?

Your problem was you bought an non-OEM cable. You should only EVER buy a Ford OEM or MM OEM cable, the rest are inferior. If you have a firewall adjuster then an adjustable cable is completely pointless anyway.

Then there is setting the preload on the cable. There is so much bad info circulating the internets on this it isn't even funny. There should be NO air gap between the TOB and the pressure plate fingers, none. The TOB is designed to be constantly spinning even with the clutch fully engaged.

Setting the preload means that with the car running in neutral and up on ramps/jackstands/lift (safely chocked/braced) you crawl under and shine a flashlight into the bellhousing watching the TOB. Have a friend slowly tighten the firewall adjuster until the TOB just starts to spin. Then you go 2 or 3 clicks (microclick) or 1/4-1/2 turn (non-microclick) tighter on the firewall adjuster and that is your preload.

Its not rocket science to adjust a clutch but with all the adjustable cables, "freeplay" kits and ppl not understanding that the TOB is supposed to be spinning at all times I see threads like this come up too often sadly.

/rant
 
#31 ·
Then there is setting the preload on the cable. There is so much bad info circulating the internets on this it isn't even funny. There should be NO air gap between the TOB and the pressure plate fingers, none. The TOB is designed to be constantly spinning even with the clutch fully engaged.

Setting the preload means that with the car running in neutral and up on ramps/jackstands/lift (safely chocked/braced) you crawl under and shine a flashlight into the bellhousing watching the TOB. Have a friend slowly tighten the firewall adjuster until the TOB just starts to spin. Then you go 2 or 3 clicks (microclick) or 1/4-1/2 turn (non-microclick) tighter on the firewall adjuster and that is your preload.

Its not rocket science to adjust a clutch but with all the adjustable cables, "freeplay" kits and ppl not understanding that the TOB is supposed to be spinning at all times I see threads like this come up too often sadly.

/rant
You just saved the world from another clutch adjustment thread. Thank you! :salute:
 
#24 ·
I just put on a new adjustable clutch cable. Got it all adjusted at firewall and feel seemed good.
Your problems have only just begun. You will need to keep adjusting it out because those ####ty Chinese cables will stretch and you'll have to compensate for it. I would HIGHLY recommend that you get a true cable, still using the firewall adjuster and quadrant of course, and keep the adjustable as a band-aid spare in case the actual cable breaks. They are def more expensive than adjustable cables, but for a very good reason, and you can get a slightly longer one from Maximum Motorsports in order to route it even further away from the motor and header to let it live longer, plus keep the curves more gradual for easier articulation.

I can also confirm the common myth that the TOB is not supposed to rest on the clutch fingers, but that in fact, it should and does.

Edit : I now realize that others have already posted this, oops :blam:
 
#25 ·
Wish I had known about these cable issues when doing my Aod to t5 conversion. Never saw people recommending the MM set up or saying to stay away from generic cables.

My new intake will go on hold as I have to take my hobby car funds and fix the clutch. Going to a spec stage II
 
#26 ·
For 300whp the Spec 2 is overkill. I'd stick with organic at that level. Give Clutch Dynamics in Michigan a call and talk to Dan. He'll set you up with whatever you need for your combo and you'll pay way less than buying Spec/Ram/McCleod etc...
 
#32 ·
GO hydraulic, twin disk. there is NO jury on this. it flat out works.

stock feel, less than stock effort, NEVER HAVE TO READJUST some clicker or cable, NO inconsistent feel as with cable when it heats up, NO stress on firewall

and holds pretty much anything you will throw at it.

BTW with the mustang cable/fork setup, there needs to be preload on the fingers by the TOB, NO AIR GAP, when disengaged.
 
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top