SN95 brake booster is a fox - Ford Mustang Forums : Corral.net Mustang Forum
Go Back   Ford Mustang Forums : Corral.net Mustang Forum > General Tech Forums > General Mustang Tech

Corral.net is the premier Ford Mustang Forum on the internet. Registered Users do not see the above ads.
Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools Display Modes
Old 03-13-2010, 12:27 AM   #1
Registered User
 
Fiddy211's Avatar

Trader Feedback: (3)
 
Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: Mooresville, NC
Posts: 285

SN95 brake booster is a fox

Does anyone have an easy way to do this. I have fooled with putting a SN95 brake booster in my fox for 2 hrs. After taking the intake loose, wiper motor off, and apart some of the wires, I still can't get it to go all the way in. Looks like I need to bet the inner fender in some, but really don't want to do that. Have any of you had this problem, or know a good easy fix? Thanks!
Fiddy211 is offline  
Digg this Post!Add Post to del.icio.usBookmark Post in TechnoratiTweet this Post!
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
Old 03-13-2010, 02:05 AM   #2
Registered User
 
Shakerhood's Avatar

Trader Feedback: (9)
 
Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: Southern Ohio
Posts: 6,300

The SN95 Booster has a slightly different stud pattern if i remember correct, make a cardboard template of the booster and then hold it on the firewall and elongate as needed.
Shakerhood is offline  
Digg this Post!Add Post to del.icio.usBookmark Post in TechnoratiTweet this Post!
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 03-16-2010, 04:43 AM   #3
Registered User
 
Nitrous SSC's Avatar

Trader Feedback: (7)
 
Join Date: Jun 2002
Location: Layton, UT
Posts: 6,744

Elongate the holes, and take a BFH to the strut tower. I had to dent mine in pretty far to get my booster in.
__________________
Matt, 90' GT 347, 6037 heads, V1 Si-trim, 11psi, B31 Cam, T56, SV Intake, BE/Tweecer Tuned. 550rwhp 513tq
Bonneville 130 club member. (139.993) 11.48@123 in the 1/4.
04' Marauder 268rwhp/295tq.
03' Sonic Blue Cobra 497rwhp 481tq
Nitrous SSC is offline  
Digg this Post!Add Post to del.icio.usBookmark Post in TechnoratiTweet this Post!
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 03-16-2010, 08:08 AM   #4
Registered User

Trader Feedback: (34)
 
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: Harrisburg, PA
Posts: 396

Quote:
Originally Posted by Fiddy211 View Post
Does anyone have an easy way to do this. I have fooled with putting a SN95 brake booster in my fox for 2 hrs. After taking the intake loose, wiper motor off, and apart some of the wires, I still can't get it to go all the way in. Looks like I need to bet the inner fender in some, but really don't want to do that. Have any of you had this problem, or know a good easy fix? Thanks!
There's a pinned thread that talks about this... Sounds like your almost there.. You will need to "massage" the strut tower to provide the clearance and as mentioned above, the bolt pattern is slightly different and will need to be elongated..
Panoles1 is offline  
Digg this Post!Add Post to del.icio.usBookmark Post in TechnoratiTweet this Post!
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 03-16-2010, 03:06 PM   #5
Registered User

Trader Feedback: (4)
 
Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: Bowling Green KY
Posts: 140

I just did this yesterday. Yes the bolt pattern is different. Make a template and just drill another hole. I also elogated the remaining holes to make it easier to get in. And yeah you will probably need to "massage" strut tower. I did on mine just a little. Tried and tried without doing it but just no way. Banged it in just little and it slipped right in.
bg90coupe is online now  
Digg this Post!Add Post to del.icio.usBookmark Post in TechnoratiTweet this Post!
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 03-16-2010, 03:12 PM   #6
Registered User
 
kicker0's Avatar

Trader Feedback: (15)
 
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: Vero Beach, FL
Posts: 176

Quote:
Originally Posted by bg90coupe View Post
...Banged it in just little and it slipped right in.
What he said I also had to elongate the holes in the firewall and dent the strut tower a tad. Was the worse part of my SN95 Disk Brake conversion.
__________________
'93 lx
kicker0 is offline  
Digg this Post!Add Post to del.icio.usBookmark Post in TechnoratiTweet this Post!
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 03-16-2010, 04:11 PM   #7
Registered User

Trader Feedback: (23)
 
Join Date: Apr 2003
Location: Thornton,Colorado
Posts: 713

brakes

There is a whole thread on modular fords about using sn 95 pedals and booster on a fox and you could say you have to elgongate the holes alright. Then you have to cut the pushrod and weld the fox pushrod onto the sn95 booster Personally I using the sn95 pedals and hydroboost no cutting and welding the pushrod.
CPURTELLII is offline  
Digg this Post!Add Post to del.icio.usBookmark Post in TechnoratiTweet this Post!
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 03-16-2010, 06:03 PM   #8
Registered User
 
stu11926's Avatar

Trader Feedback: (6)
 
Join Date: Dec 1999
Location: Lexington, SC CSA
Posts: 945

Here's a thread from 2007 when I did my five lug swap and had to clearance the strut tower (with pictures). It really helped that I happened to have the engine out of the car while doing the swap. It gave me a lot more room to swing the BFH.

SN95 conversion

Last edited by stu11926; 03-16-2010 at 06:03 PM. Reason: Forgot to put in the link!
stu11926 is offline  
Digg this Post!Add Post to del.icio.usBookmark Post in TechnoratiTweet this Post!
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 03-16-2010, 11:22 PM   #9
Registered User

Trader Feedback: (11)
 
Join Date: Jan 2002
Location: Owensboro, KY
Posts: 648

Is there a viable alternative to the SN95 booster if you are running SN95 brakes front and rear?

SVO? 93 Cobra? etc?

Seems like a big hassle...may just stick with rear drums till I pull the engine out.
__________________
1991 Bimini on Black Coupe -5.0/5spd, Mostly stock
1985 Primer on Black Coupe - 5.0/5spd, Mostly Stock, Shaved engine compartment, EFI, Aero nose, interior, and window conversion by previous owner.
ShawnQ is offline  
Digg this Post!Add Post to del.icio.usBookmark Post in TechnoratiTweet this Post!
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 03-17-2010, 12:04 AM   #10
Registered User
 
Nitrous SSC's Avatar

Trader Feedback: (7)
 
Join Date: Jun 2002
Location: Layton, UT
Posts: 6,744

They are the same installing a 93 Cobra one. Thats whats in my car.
__________________
Matt, 90' GT 347, 6037 heads, V1 Si-trim, 11psi, B31 Cam, T56, SV Intake, BE/Tweecer Tuned. 550rwhp 513tq
Bonneville 130 club member. (139.993) 11.48@123 in the 1/4.
04' Marauder 268rwhp/295tq.
03' Sonic Blue Cobra 497rwhp 481tq
Nitrous SSC is offline  
Digg this Post!Add Post to del.icio.usBookmark Post in TechnoratiTweet this Post!
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 03-17-2010, 02:16 AM   #11
Registered User
 
Shakerhood's Avatar

Trader Feedback: (9)
 
Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: Southern Ohio
Posts: 6,300

The 93 Cobra Booster is a much better choice, the studs have the same thread pitch and pattern.
Shakerhood is offline  
Digg this Post!Add Post to del.icio.usBookmark Post in TechnoratiTweet this Post!
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 03-17-2010, 02:20 AM   #12
Registered User

Trader Feedback: (11)
 
Join Date: Jan 2002
Location: Owensboro, KY
Posts: 648

Quote:
Originally Posted by Shakerhood View Post
The 93 Cobra Booster is a much better choice, the studs have the same thread pitch and pattern.
What about the SVO, same as the cobra? Or a turbocoupe?
__________________
1991 Bimini on Black Coupe -5.0/5spd, Mostly stock
1985 Primer on Black Coupe - 5.0/5spd, Mostly Stock, Shaved engine compartment, EFI, Aero nose, interior, and window conversion by previous owner.
ShawnQ is offline  
Digg this Post!Add Post to del.icio.usBookmark Post in TechnoratiTweet this Post!
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 03-17-2010, 02:55 AM   #13
Registered User
 
Shakerhood's Avatar

Trader Feedback: (9)
 
Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: Southern Ohio
Posts: 6,300

Quote:
Originally Posted by ShawnQ View Post
What about the SVO, same as the cobra? Or a turbocoupe?
No idea on the SVO or TC, I imagine those would be more expensive and alot harder to find than the 93 Cobra. The 93 Cobra Booster came in my M-2300-K Kit, Excellent Pedal Feel.
Shakerhood is offline  
Digg this Post!Add Post to del.icio.usBookmark Post in TechnoratiTweet this Post!
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 03-17-2010, 05:08 AM   #14
Registered User
 
v8only's Avatar

Trader Feedback: (11)
 
Join Date: Oct 2002
Location: Corona, Ca
Posts: 4,113

on 87+ mustangs, it is not necessary at all to massage the strut tower.

elongating the holes is all that is necessary.
__________________
Jeremy-
-86 ssp coupe
-66 mustang coupe...5.0, custom comp cam roller, Eddy perf heads, Pete Jackson noisy gear drive,holley 670 carb, airgap intake,t5 trans, 96 explorer 8.8 rear 373 gears,2005 gt brakes, full suspension roller mods
-01 bullitt true blue
v8only is offline  
Digg this Post!Add Post to del.icio.usBookmark Post in TechnoratiTweet this Post!
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 03-17-2010, 09:29 AM   #15
Registered User
 
Mustang5L5's Avatar

Trader Feedback: (6)
 
Join Date: May 2000
Location: BOSTON, MA
Posts: 6,964

I got mine in my '88 with little hassle. To be honest, i think i worked myself up on it reading the horror stories that I was afraid to do it and avoided it leaving subpar brakes. In the end...it was no big deal. putting the nuts back on to bolt it in was more of a headache. Just make sure you have extensions and universals. I dropped the lower panel of my dash too

I used an SN95 booster, and trimmed about 1/2" off each stud. I redrilled the lower hole using a cardboard template and then slotted them all to the pass side. I removed the upper intake, and wiggled it right in. Never touched the fender with a hammer.

Sometime around 91 or 92, Ford redesigned the shock tower, so the later cars are even easier.

93 cobra boosters are the easiest to install...just because the bolt stud pattern is the same as a fox booster. However they tend to cost more since they are usually purchased new. Sn95 boosters are the same, but have a metric stud and 1 stud moved slightly. 94-95 all and 99-04 V6 boosters are the ones to use. All tandem 205mm boosters...same as '93 cobra. There is no other booster to use.
__________________
Mike
--1988 Mustang LX 5.0--
--2006 Infiniti G35x--
Mustang5L5 is offline  
Digg this Post!Add Post to del.icio.usBookmark Post in TechnoratiTweet this Post!
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 03-17-2010, 12:19 PM   #16
Registered User
 
Fiddy211's Avatar

Trader Feedback: (3)
 
Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: Mooresville, NC
Posts: 285

Thanks for the help. Just needed to drill another hole. Didn't have to do anything to the strut tower. This is the first I have heard of having to cut the plunger out of the old one. Why is this necessary?. I have mine hooked up and everything already. I am almost done. Just lack putting axles in and mounting the calipers on the rear. Curious about the plunger deal. All of the reading on this and that is the first time I have heard that.
Fiddy211 is offline  
Digg this Post!Add Post to del.icio.usBookmark Post in TechnoratiTweet this Post!
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 03-17-2010, 01:41 PM   #17
Registered User
 
Mustang5L5's Avatar

Trader Feedback: (6)
 
Join Date: May 2000
Location: BOSTON, MA
Posts: 6,964

Quote:
Originally Posted by CPURTELLII View Post
There is a whole thread on modular fords about using sn 95 pedals and booster on a fox and you could say you have to elgongate the holes alright. Then you have to cut the pushrod and weld the fox pushrod onto the sn95 booster Personally I using the sn95 pedals and hydroboost no cutting and welding the pushrod.
I think we need to see this thread because there is no need to cut and weld. The 94-95 and 99-04 vac boosters share the same type of pushrod rod as the fox.
__________________
Mike
--1988 Mustang LX 5.0--
--2006 Infiniti G35x--
Mustang5L5 is offline  
Digg this Post!Add Post to del.icio.usBookmark Post in TechnoratiTweet this Post!
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 03-18-2010, 01:16 AM   #18
Registered User
 
Shakerhood's Avatar

Trader Feedback: (9)
 
Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: Southern Ohio
Posts: 6,300

Quote:
Originally Posted by Mustang5L5 View Post
I got mine in my '88 with little hassle. To be honest, i think i worked myself up on it reading the horror stories that I was afraid to do it and avoided it leaving subpar brakes. In the end...it was no big deal. putting the nuts back on to bolt it in was more of a headache. Just make sure you have extensions and universals. I dropped the lower panel of my dash too

I used an SN95 booster, and trimmed about 1/2" off each stud. I redrilled the lower hole using a cardboard template and then slotted them all to the pass side. I removed the upper intake, and wiggled it right in. Never touched the fender with a hammer.

Sometime around 91 or 92, Ford redesigned the shock tower, so the later cars are even easier.

93 cobra boosters are the easiest to install...just because the bolt stud pattern is the same as a fox booster. However they tend to cost more since they are usually purchased new. Sn95 boosters are the same, but have a metric stud and 1 stud moved slightly. 94-95 all and 99-04 V6 boosters are the ones to use. All tandem 205mm boosters...same as '93 cobra. There is no other booster to use.
I was originally worked up a little too after reading prior to installing the Booster, in all honesty it was really not too bad.
Shakerhood is offline  
Digg this Post!Add Post to del.icio.usBookmark Post in TechnoratiTweet this Post!
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 03-18-2010, 01:22 AM   #19
Registered User
 
straightliner1's Avatar

Trader Feedback: (2)
 
Join Date: Sep 2000
Location: California. Where'd they put the Taco Trucks?
Posts: 4,774

Quote:
Originally Posted by v8only View Post
on 87+ mustangs, it is not necessary at all to massage the strut tower.

elongating the holes is all that is necessary.
He's right, I've done it twice. Grab a Dremel and get to work, it's no big deal -seriously!
__________________
Justin
FYI: Two wrongs don't make a right, but three rights make a left!
SOLD - 91LX Couper track bitch
straightliner1 is offline  
Digg this Post!Add Post to del.icio.usBookmark Post in TechnoratiTweet this Post!
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 10-31-2010, 06:18 PM   #20
Registered User
 
Djstorm100's Avatar

Trader Feedback: (11)
 
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: Somwhere
Posts: 939

so if you use the sn95 rears and 01 fronts a cobra brake booster will work? or do you need to stay with the sn95? I've read the cobra brake booster is the same as the sn95 just fits directly in. Autozone carries cobras brake boosters for 120 bucks.
Djstorm100 is offline  
Digg this Post!Add Post to del.icio.usBookmark Post in TechnoratiTweet this Post!
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 10-31-2010, 06:19 PM   #21
Registered User
 
Djstorm100's Avatar

Trader Feedback: (11)
 
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: Somwhere
Posts: 939

82 dollars with a 38 dollar core charge.
Djstorm100 is offline  
Digg this Post!Add Post to del.icio.usBookmark Post in TechnoratiTweet this Post!
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 11-01-2010, 10:24 PM   #22
Registered User
 
Mustang5L5's Avatar

Trader Feedback: (6)
 
Join Date: May 2000
Location: BOSTON, MA
Posts: 6,964

Quote:
Originally Posted by Djstorm100 View Post
so if you use the sn95 rears and 01 fronts a cobra brake booster will work? or do you need to stay with the sn95? I've read the cobra brake booster is the same as the sn95 just fits directly in. Autozone carries cobras brake boosters for 120 bucks.

1993 cobra, 94-95 all and 99-04 v6 are all the same booster.

Only difference is the 1993 cobra uses the sae pitch and stud pattern of the fox booster.

The 94-95 and 99-04 booster use metric thread and one stud is in a different spot.

96-98 v6 boosters have a straight pedal arm and should not be used.

Honestly, the install difference between sn95 and 1993 cobra booster is notmthat different. You have to slot the holes anyway...but the sn95 bolstered just need a new hole drilled. Make sure you have the metric nuts first. The stock fox booster and 1993 cobra booster use sae threads.

I got my sn95 booster in by slotting the holes, and cutting the studs down about 1/2". Didn't need to touch fender at all. I did take the intake off, but the valve cover, and wiper motor stayed. I just moved the wiring out of the way.

Looks right at home
__________________
Mike
--1988 Mustang LX 5.0--
--2006 Infiniti G35x--
Mustang5L5 is offline  
Digg this Post!Add Post to del.icio.usBookmark Post in TechnoratiTweet this Post!
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 11-01-2010, 10:42 PM   #23
Registered User
 
Djstorm100's Avatar

Trader Feedback: (11)
 
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: Somwhere
Posts: 939

the cobra booster should drop right on in shouldnt it?
Djstorm100 is offline  
Digg this Post!Add Post to del.icio.usBookmark Post in TechnoratiTweet this Post!
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 11-01-2010, 11:35 PM   #24
Registered User
 
Mustang5L5's Avatar

Trader Feedback: (6)
 
Join Date: May 2000
Location: BOSTON, MA
Posts: 6,964

Nope. Still need to slot holes to the pass side slightly.

Fender changed in 1991...so 91-93 cars will have the easiest time of it
__________________
Mike
--1988 Mustang LX 5.0--
--2006 Infiniti G35x--
Mustang5L5 is offline  
Digg this Post!Add Post to del.icio.usBookmark Post in TechnoratiTweet this Post!
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 11-02-2010, 09:27 AM   #25
Formerly David Claflin
 
superirish's Avatar

Trader Feedback: (27)
 
Join Date: Jul 2000
Location: Foht Walt'n Beach Floriduh aka The Redneck Riviera
Posts: 8,157

I just used a fox booster and I think it was a 15/16 bore master cylinder on the LTD, I've done the SN booster on a couple different cars before that.

Read this
How many people have had good luck w/ the stock booster & sn95 or 1993 cobra master
__________________
1990 LX, GT40 junk, 4.10's, 3" exhaust
1985 LTD LX hot-rod fairmont, painted axles tubes and a small truck motor 3400 pound daily driver, 7.92@86
1988 GT, 306, Vic jr Accufab 4 hole, Accufab 1 3/4 longtubes, 3" exhaust, cobra brakes, DB-1 quarterhorse

Last edited by superirish; 11-02-2010 at 09:29 AM.
superirish is offline  
Digg this Post!Add Post to del.icio.usBookmark Post in TechnoratiTweet this Post!
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
Reply

Bookmarks

Quick Reply
Message:
Options

Register Now

In order to be able to post messages on the Ford Mustang Forums : Corral.net Mustang Forum forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name, your email address and other required details in the form below.
User Name:
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.
Password:
Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid email address for yourself.
Email Address:

Log-in

Human Verification

In order to verify that you are a human and not a spam bot, please enter the answer into the following box below based on the instructions contained in the graphic.



Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On



All times are GMT -4. The time now is 12:18 PM.



Powered by vBulletin® Copyright ©2000 - 2014, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.
Search Engine Friendly URLs by vBSEO 3.5.2
© 2010-2011 Corral.net

Garage Plus vBulletin Plugins by Drive Thru Online, Inc.