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Old 09-27-2008, 08:31 PM   #1
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UPR vs. MaxiMum motorsports subframe connectors ?

so which ones are better? i have a 92 vert,and was looking into both brands (full length)..i was reading the install instructions on the MM website,the MM ones seem to require way more assembly/welding,the UPR ones look like they have the mounting tabs already welded into place,which im sure would ease installation
the UPR's also come with torque box reinforcement plates
http://www.uprproducts.com/shopping/shopexd.asp?id=796

heres the MM ones
http://www.maximummotorsports.com/st...ff/MMFL-1B.jpg
you can see how you have to weld up ALL those little brackets..they look like a PITA

any opinions?
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Old 09-27-2008, 08:51 PM   #2
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I've got MM SFCs on my 92 vert along with a 4 point G-Load brace, an STB and C/C plates. I'm completely happy.

Your installer may have to bend them, though - mine did.
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Old 09-27-2008, 08:54 PM   #3
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im going to install them myself,thats why i said about it being a PITA to weld all those brackets in place..i guess i'm really asking if the UPR ones are just as good as the MM,cuz thats what im leaning towards
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Old 09-27-2008, 09:25 PM   #4
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MM's aren't pre-welded because there's too much production variance in where the car's hardpoints are located, and you have the freedom to put them where they need to be for your particular car. You're going to be welding them in anyway, so an extra few stitches on bracketry shouldn't scare you off.
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Old 09-27-2008, 09:30 PM   #5
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yeah i suppose you're right,are they that much better than the UPR's?
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Old 09-28-2008, 12:03 PM   #6
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check out wildrides full length subframe connecters
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Old 09-28-2008, 01:29 PM   #7
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Quote:
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check out wildrides full length subframe connecters
they dont seem to be any different than any other brand,they are actually smaller than the other 2 brands with only 1x2 tubing compared to the 1.25x2" of the other brands
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Old 09-28-2008, 07:29 PM   #8
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Quote:
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im going to install them myself,thats why i said about it being a PITA to weld all those brackets in place..i guess i'm really asking if the UPR ones are just as good as the MM,cuz thats what im leaning towards
Come down the Harrisburg and let CJ Pony Parts weld the MM in for you. Spend the day at Hershey Park, and drive home. Problem solved!
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Old 09-28-2008, 08:25 PM   #9
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yeah sounds like a good idea. too bad i hate roller coasters haha
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Old 09-30-2008, 02:50 PM   #10
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gee its been a while since I've spent any time on the forums, but what ever happened to Perkys welded up subframes? Geez, I think I paid him like $50 bucks a couple years back for them included instal...
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Old 09-30-2008, 03:21 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MFE View Post
MM's aren't pre-welded because there's too much production variance in where the car's hardpoints are located, and you have the freedom to put them where they need to be for your particular car. You're going to be welding them in anyway, so an extra few stitches on bracketry shouldn't scare you off.
+1
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Old 09-30-2008, 06:31 PM   #12
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I'm happy with my UPR full length subframe connectors. Don't think you can go wrong either way.
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Old 10-01-2008, 02:22 AM   #13
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The current MM XL full length subframe connectors are 1.5" x 2", not 1.25" x 2". This 0.25" difference in height makes them 50% stiffer in bending.
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Old 10-01-2008, 02:40 AM   #14
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i went with the BBK subframes with seat bracket, its like a regular subframe connector but it has a bracket welded that mounts to the seat bolts also.

i bolted and welded them on.

thru the floor subframes is the way to go thou
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Old 10-01-2008, 09:00 AM   #15
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what about the fact that the UPR's come with torque box reinforcement plates? i know you can buy them seperate from MM or wherever,maybe i'm just lookin for a deal
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Old 10-01-2008, 09:58 AM   #16
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IMHO the seat brackets are critical, they keep the floorpan from cracking from the weight of the driver. The torque box reinforcements are pretty damn critical too if you're going to be making power and using it hard.
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Old 10-01-2008, 10:17 AM   #17
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Quote:
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IMHO the seat brackets are critical, they keep the floorpan from cracking from the weight of the driver. The torque box reinforcements are pretty damn critical too if you're going to be making power and using it hard.
yeah the UPR's come with the seat braces and the torque box reinforcements. my floor pan already had a small crack that i welded up about 2 years ago under the drivers seat..i think the welded area is stronger than the factory metal lol
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Old 10-01-2008, 11:59 AM   #18
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check out www.atomicperformance.com for the MM SFC's. They are one of the cheapest places around and shipping is FREE. Sorry to say but everything I've ever bought from UPR has been junk. If the MM are more, who cares? You'll be getting one of the best quality SFC's on the market.
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Old 10-01-2008, 12:14 PM   #19
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check out www.atomicperformance.com for the MM SFC's. They are one of the cheapest places around and shipping is FREE. Sorry to say but everything I've ever bought from UPR has been junk. If the MM are more, who cares? You'll be getting one of the best quality SFC's on the market.
that guy pm'ed me i was waiting for him to get back to me..they carry a couple different brands,UPR,MM,Wildrides,Steeda..etc..
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Old 10-01-2008, 12:21 PM   #20
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I deal with a guy named Jeff Z. from there. He has always treated me great and got my parts out same day. They're in CT and I usually have parts from them next day.
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Old 10-01-2008, 07:09 PM   #21
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he still hasnt gotten back to me yet,i'll probably just buy from another guy on here i already got a better price from
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Old 10-01-2008, 07:29 PM   #22
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Quote:
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IMHO the seat brackets are critical, they keep the floorpan from cracking from the weight of the driver. The torque box reinforcements are pretty damn critical too if you're going to be making power and using it hard.
Hey MFE - MM has consistently told me that torque box reinforcement is not necessary if using their control arms regardless of hp. They say that if your TBs get chewed up, it's due to using an inferior LCA. I've talked to a number of their reps and they say the same thing. MM is considered to be one of the best, so I wouldn't expect them to say stuff like that if they couldn't back it up.

Thoughts?
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Old 10-01-2008, 09:06 PM   #23
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I think "never" is a strong word, and if you're going to be in there welding anyway, might as well apply some TB reinforcements.
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Old 10-01-2008, 09:06 PM   #24
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I think "never" is a strong word, and if you're going to be in there welding anyway, might as well apply some TB reinforcements.
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Old 10-02-2008, 12:32 AM   #25
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Other than using rear control arms with all solid bushings and/or solid thrust washers, the next most common cause of torque box damage is the result of someone placing a floor jack under them to raise the car. This bends the sheet metal and starts breaking the spot welds. Hard launches then finishes it off.

I'm sure that there are some cars out there with a bizillion hp that have broken the welds in the torque boxes, but in 99% of the cases, I think something else started the damage first.

In any case, it probably won't hurt to reinforce them. They mostly just need more complete welding than the factory uses. The biggest trick is getting the MIG nozzle in the tight spots.
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Old 10-02-2008, 05:31 PM   #26
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Keep in mind with the front vert reinforcement plates (from frame rail to rocker reinforcement) you may have to modify or remove them. I opted to remove mine since I was installing full length subs. I also had to modify the rear one, It is in the way of where the rear torque box plate mounts.

In the end, I opted to make my own full length subs for my vert due to the above mods, and used the others on my hardtop fox. Cost of the needed steel was 44.00.
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Old 10-03-2008, 10:17 AM   #27
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Quote:
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Keep in mind with the front vert reinforcement plates (from frame rail to rocker reinforcement) you may have to modify or remove them. I opted to remove mine since I was installing full length subs. I also had to modify the rear one, It is in the way of where the rear torque box plate mounts.

In the end, I opted to make my own full length subs for my vert due to the above mods, and used the others on my hardtop fox. Cost of the needed steel was 44.00.
yes i know all about the factory plates..i was lloking thru MM's website for the install instructions and they show how to cut them up and all..they look so cheap they should have just not even bothered to put them on there..they're on there with like 3 tiny ass rivets..and people wonder why the verts rattle and flop around like a wet noodle
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