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#1 |
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Registered User
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Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: virginia beach, VA
Posts: 889
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130amp altERNATOR - what fuse?
a few questions, im going to run 4 gauge wire, where can i get an inline e fuse for the wire? advanced didnt have one that big? can i use one from the car stereo place? also what amp fuse should i run? i was thinking 200
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91 MUSTANG GT 99 EXPLORER DAILY DRIVER |
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#2 |
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Registered User
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Hello,
i use on my pa-performance 130 amp alternator a 200 amp fuse. They come original with the alternator.
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331stroker EFI,GT40 intake,AFR185,pro magnum RR,Ed Curtis custom cam,Tremec TKO,3.55:1,Innovate WB,Tweecer RT |
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#3 |
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Location: Tulsa, Ok
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I use a 150 amp wafer fuse
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331 , afr185's, tfs-r intake, 75mm tb/egr, and b-41 cam, 1.6rr, 50lb injectors, 80mm maf, S-TRIM 10#,6-btm, wideband autometer gauge, msd dizzy, 1 3/4 mac LT, and all the traction goodies |
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#5 | |
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Quote:
EDIT: Here's a complete install package. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/87-93...mZ170253001711 . |
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#7 |
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Registered User
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Location: virginia beach, VA
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ill check out the circuit breaker, whats the difference between the 2?
i have all the wiring and stator wiring and ends, i just needed a fuse?
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91 MUSTANG GT 99 EXPLORER DAILY DRIVER |
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#9 |
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a fuse will hold TWICE its rated power for 3-5 seconds before blowing, not many people know this. a short is not part of the equasion (sp?)
also if you put 2 fuses side by side (see pic) of 100 amps each to make a 200amp connection it will last longer then a single 200 amp fuse when given 400 amps ![]() a 200 amp fuse will hold 200 amps all day long, it will even hold 250 for a long time. so think about this your 130 amp alt with a 200 amp fuse isnt very protected if the fuse will hold 400 amps for a few seconds. and do be honest the only reason i know this is from my dads in car stereo competitions, where your classed by your fuse rating. it works out good when you can pull 200 amps on a 100 amp for a spl burp
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#10 |
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I used a 175amp Mega Fuse and fuse holder with my 130amp 3g.
Ford used a 175amp fuse on some production vehicles so I went with with that size. I think the company that makes it is called littlefuse.I ordered it through my local auto parts store when I got the part number off the website. www.littlefuse.com |
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#11 |
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actually advance does have a battery/alternator 175 amp fuse. i know cause i work there. in my store it's located on the bottom rack in a small box. i think it has a list price of ~$10. don't quote me for the price.
just thought i'd throw that out there. i actually did not use one on my install. -Sam.
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1988 5.0: T-5, Hurst Shifter, March UDP, no A/C, PS, SP, solid motor mounts, aluminum radiator, taurus e-fan, 3G alt., MM clutch cable, UPR speed release quadrant, UPR firewall adjuster, longtubes. -waiting for install: GT40P heads, mini spool & bearings, Comp. Eng. 8 pt. roll cage, Dynomax bullets |
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#12 | |
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Quote:
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#13 | |
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Quote:
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#14 | |
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Quote:
You're correct. The fuse is supposed to protect the wiring from a short. The alternator itsself can short and drain the battery. If the alternater has a bad enough short it can cause a fire, and this is really all the fuse is there for, to prevent a fire. The fuse should be as close to the battery as possible, like right on the hot post of the solenoid.
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#15 | |
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Quote:
You want the fuse rated higher than the alternator's max output (a 130a 3G will put out 170a under full load), but you want it lower than the circuit (the 4 gauge wire). Think of it like this... If you had the 4 gauge wire from alt to battery without a fuse and some of the insulation rubbed off of the 4g wire and it shorted to ground, it would take out the alternator, the heat would melt insulation and start taking out other circuits and would most likely cause a fire. If you had the circuit protected with an inline fuse, the alternator would be toast and the fuse would blow. I'm not an electrical engineer and could be dead wrong, but this is my understanding of how it works. |
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#17 |
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Shade tree electricians can be scary. The purpose of the inline fuse is to protect the wire. Diff size wire has different current carrying ability or limitations, amps are the measuring units for current. It was correct as listed above that a 200 amp fuse will pass 200amps of current all day long. That is a problem if your only using 4 ga wire that is rated at around 160 amps full load (not continuous) carrying ability. That basically means that with 4 Ga wire and a 200amp fuse, if you see 200 amps for any length of time the wire will fail (melt, burn) and the fuse wouldn't blow.
Realistically (sp?), a 130 amp or whatever high amp alt you use will not be pumping out that max amp rating at all times. The alt output will vary depending on load needed. The more acc you have (stereo, elec fans, fuel pump, lights, etc) running at the same time, the higher the alt output will be up to it's max ability. The size of charge wire you use should be based on the alt max output ability, and then based on the wire size you choose the correct fuse protection. A fuse is the safest and fastest way to protect a circuit. They are very accurate and dependable. Circuit breakers work, but they are not as fast or as dependable, I've seen them fail not tripping soon enough, tripping too early (nuisance trips) and some not trip at all. I personally chose 2 ga wire for my 130 alt install and protect it with a 175 amp mega fuse. The minimal cost and little extra weight are worth protecting the larger investment I have in the rest of the car. Check out the amp rating table for single core/battery starter cable. You can also look under the fuses/breakers tab at fuse holders and breakers. I chose the "mega fuses" and their respective holder because the 175 amp fuses are readily available at the salvage yards, alot of late model cars use them. http://www.12volt.com.au/redirect.ht...cablewire.html This is the fuse holder that I use. They can be had cheaper through waytekwire.com. http://www.electricvehiclesusa.com/p..._p/fh-mega.htm Last edited by Mattstang65; 09-14-2008 at 06:31 PM. |
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#18 |
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If your dead set on using the 4ga wire, it would be a good idea to use a 150 amp fuse max, 125 would probably work for you as well. You'd need to find a local shop that rebuilds alternators that can "load" test your alt to see how much output it is truely capable of producing and fuse accordingly.
In any short circuit fault such as the wire getting pinched or the insulation wearing through and grounding out will result in an immediate current spike and resulting blown fuse. Another helpful site: http://www.the12volt.com/info/recwirsz.asp Watts or power = amps x volts
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91 notch, 408W, 10.5 comp, Jay Allen cam, Crane linkbars, Scorpion rockers, vic jr intake/heads, Canton pan, Mac longtubes, C4, UPR adj. uppers/lowers, Strange struts/shocks, subframe connectors, wild rides 6pt, Team Z k-member/anti-roll bar, MSD ignition. Last edited by Mattstang65; 09-14-2008 at 09:10 PM. |
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#19 | |
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Quote:
Also, why get the alternator load tested? Do people really use the max output, at anything other than idle? Even a 200a alternator, is only capable of around 100a at idle. Not trying to argue, I'm in no position to. Just thinking aloud and curious . Last edited by royalfockhead; 09-14-2008 at 10:32 PM. |
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#20 |
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Location: Lawrence, KS
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I guess I need to think about getting a fuse. The guy I got the car from did the 3g upgrade, but there isnt a fuse ANYWHERE on the upgrade. So it goes inline with the BIG wire going from the starter solinoid down to the alternator?
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#21 |
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Registered User
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Most don't tax the alt to it's limit, especially in stock vehicles. The 175 fuse that ford uses is mainly for fault protection, I believe, not constant full load carrying ability. Short runs also raise a cables current carrying ability, most modified cars have relocated (trunk mount) batteries. There are alot of factors involved. Fire and its potential scares me, so I always lean toward the safer side or overkill when it comes to protecting against it. Do what you like.
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91 notch, 408W, 10.5 comp, Jay Allen cam, Crane linkbars, Scorpion rockers, vic jr intake/heads, Canton pan, Mac longtubes, C4, UPR adj. uppers/lowers, Strange struts/shocks, subframe connectors, wild rides 6pt, Team Z k-member/anti-roll bar, MSD ignition. |
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#23 |
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Registered User
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Location: Silverdale, WA
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I bought my fuse and holder here. It is the best price I have found.
http://www.keefeperformance.com/high_amp_fuses.html
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US Navy Retired Machinist Mate (Auxiliaryman) Submarines 1983 Ranger 2.3l 5 speed. Beater truck. 1992 Mustang Coupe. 2.3l turbo project. 2002 Expedition. Family car/tow vehicle |
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#24 |
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Corral Charter Member
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You may want to look at marine fuses and fuse blocks - here's an example
![]() This one is 32 bucks, and holds up to a 250 amp fuse. It's what I used in my 3g upgrade. Try West Marine or any boat hardware source.
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Je n'avais pas besoin de cette hypothèse-là Pierre-Simon Laplace |
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#25 |
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Registered User
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The same thing is on the website I just posted above for $9.99.
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US Navy Retired Machinist Mate (Auxiliaryman) Submarines 1983 Ranger 2.3l 5 speed. Beater truck. 1992 Mustang Coupe. 2.3l turbo project. 2002 Expedition. Family car/tow vehicle |
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