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Old 04-25-2008, 01:28 PM   #1
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Exclamation How do i read my differential tag? what does it mean?

Well i have a bent axle, and the cover was leaking considerably. Its a stock 92 mustang LX with a 5.0 and a 5-speed. The tag reads:

S219A
3L27 681K02


My question is what axle do i need (28 spline or 31) and what gears are in their? Also, where the hell is the fill bolt to fill the diff back up? and what oil is recomended for the posi rear-end?

Thanks

-Phil
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Old 04-25-2008, 01:34 PM   #2
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Quote:
Originally Posted by calypsoMANIAC View Post
Well i have a bent axle, and the cover was leaking considerably. Its a stock 92 mustang LX with a 5.0 and a 5-speed. The tag reads:

S219A
3L27 681K02


My question is what axle do i need (28 spline or 31) and what gears are in their? Also, where the hell is the fill bolt to fill the diff back up? and what oil is recomended for the posi rear-end?

Thanks

-Phil


8.8" rear gear wth'a 28 spline axle and a locking/posi unit wth a 3.27 rear gear..... oil can be anything from 80W90 to 75W140 synthetic, just don't forget the Friction Modifier for the posi unit, fill plug is on the inboard side, infront of the axle tube on the driverside....
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Old 04-25-2008, 01:41 PM   #3
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Great info, thanks a ton!

Now, one of my buddies said to convert to a 31 spline axle. He said he has spare 31 spline axles but i need to convert my diff? I plan on doing heads/cam and boost either supercharger or turbo. would it be a good idea to convert, and if so what else besides the axles do i need to swap out? He also said to do 3.73's but i think my gearing is short enough i dont like the highway rpm as it is 60 mph is about 2k rpm! my 98 regal turns 2k at 80 mph so im still getting used to it lol
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Old 04-25-2008, 01:57 PM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Randy Stinchcomb View Post
8.8" rear gear wth'a 28 spline axle and a locking/posi unit wth a 3.27 rear gear..... oil can be anything from 80W90 to 75W140 synthetic, just don't forget the Friction Modifier for the posi unit, fill plug is on the inboard side, infront of the axle tube on the driverside....
Uh, where's the real Randy??
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Old 04-25-2008, 02:01 PM   #5
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yes you'll need a 31 spline diff to go wth the 31 spline axles and at the very least, you'll need new carrier bearings and races, axle shaft bearings and axle shaft seals and IF you're going to-do any racing, I'd recommend a rear diff girdle from, like T/A, one that has fill and drain plugs in it.........if you do the gears too, you'll also need pinion bearing, races, crush sleeve, pinion nut, maybe new ring gear bolts and a new pinion seal.....
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Old 04-25-2008, 02:03 PM   #6
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Uh, where's the real Randy??


Umm, What-hey-nowisn't this GM tEcH
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Old 04-25-2008, 02:07 PM   #7
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Quote:
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Umm, What-hey-nowisn't this GM tEcH

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Old 04-25-2008, 02:17 PM   #8
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yes you'll need a 31 spline diff to go wth the 31 spline axles and at the very least, you'll need new carrier bearings and races, axle shaft bearings and axle shaft seals and IF you're going to-do any racing, I'd recommend a rear diff girdle from, like T/A, one that has fill and drain plugs in it.........if you do the gears too, you'll also need pinion bearing, races, crush sleeve, pinion nut, maybe new ring gear bolts and a new pinion seal.....
OK sounds like a job. For now im going to say that gears are not needed for me. Right now my main concern is getting the bent axle out and installing a new one. I uploaded a pic :




Notice the teeth on the gear, do they look worn to u? I was looking at them and it seems like they are all not uniform, but again im not really familiar with differentials.
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Old 04-25-2008, 03:02 PM   #9
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well, Im no gear expert but the contact patch on the ring gear looks pretty good to-me....
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Old 04-28-2008, 12:06 AM   #10
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changed oil, posi not working now but was, added bottle of posi treatment said it was for all fords. what did i do wrong??
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Old 04-30-2008, 02:53 PM   #11
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TTT posi still not working? is their something i was suposed to do, but didnt?
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Old 04-30-2008, 03:45 PM   #12
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you probably forgot to rebuild the traction lock. When they stop working, the clutches are worn and need to be replaced. That dark grey sludge over the interior of the differential used to be the friction material. Its not that big of a deal, kit is like 80 bucks or something. Good time to do outer axle bearings and seals, since the axles need to slide out to get the carrier out. I'd actually consider just rebuilding the rear completely with inner bearings and the pinion bearing too. This would be the time to change gear ratios if you're gonna
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Old 05-01-2008, 01:44 PM   #13
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thanks for the info! Its odd though, before i changed the fluid the posi worked! oh well i have a bent driver axle, and i have a new one coming wed. Ill most likly rebuild it, or take it to a shop to be rebuilt. As far as the gears go, they seem pretty steep to me, its my daily driver, and i really wanted to do 3.73's but crusing at 50 mph in 5th puts me at almost 2,000 rpm as is so im on the edge with the gears...
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Old 05-07-2008, 09:43 PM   #14
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my 2 cents...

FYi, just so you know, the clutches inside a tracloc unit work similar to most transmission clutches/bands. Basically the fluid lubricates everything, bearings and what not, control heat a bit, and clutches bite better when they are wet. Having changed fluid in the rear end could cause the traclock to stop working from the standpoint that the clutches might be so worn that the friction from the old clutch particles that were suspended in the old fluid was all that held. Now with fluid with very little friction material in the oil, no biting/functioning of the clutchpacks. See it happen in high mileage auto transmissions once a fluid change happens, in for maintance, and then back for a trans rebuild.
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Old 05-08-2008, 04:08 AM   #15
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And friction modifier make the clutches slip even more, (Thats what it does)
Alot of people think its to make them grip better.. wrong!
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