<FONT FACE="Arial,Helvetica"><FONT COLOR="#000099"><FONT SIZE=+3>Fog Light Re-Wire</FONT></FONT></FONT></B>
<BR><I><FONT FACE="Arial,Helvetica"><FONT COLOR="#000099"><FONT SIZE=-1>modular how-to by: <A HREF="mailto:scpark@mindspring.com">Sean Park</A></FONT></FONT></FONT></I>
<P><FONT FACE="Arial,Helvetica"><FONT COLOR="#000000"><FONT SIZE=-1>One style factor that the F-body has on the Mustang is the ability to use the fog/driving lights without turning on the headlights. Wiring the SN-95’s foglights to work without the headlamps can be performed quickly and painlessly without cutting any wires. There are methods that allow the foglights to be used anytime the key is on. This method, however, requires that the headlamp switch be in at least position one for the foglights to be on.</FONT></FONT></FONT>
<P><FONT FACE="Arial,Helvetica"><FONT COLOR="#000000"><FONT SIZE=-1>The foglight switch in the center console is a low current switch, which activates
a high current relay in the engine bay. Contrary to popular belief, the actual power source for the foglights is not attached to this switch, nor is it in the center console. Because this is a low current switch, it is possible to switch the wire which is +12 volts when the headlights are on with the wire which is +12 when the parking lamps are on (switch and ashtray illumination). The only side effect of this swap is that when you turn on your bright lights, the illumination of the foglight switch and ashtray light are shut off, as would your foglights with the factory wiring setup. However, your foglights now stay on with your brights.</FONT></FONT></FONT>
<P><FONT FACE="Arial,Helvetica"><FONT COLOR="#000000"><FONT SIZE=-1>I originally performed this modification on my ’96 Cobra about a year and a half back
and have since performed this modification on many others cars, including people who post on the Corral. A set of blackouts over the parking lamps at dusk with the driving lights makes for a killer look.</FONT></FONT></FONT>
<P><FONT FACE="Arial,Helvetica"><FONT COLOR="#000000"><FONT SIZE=-1>The first step in performing the rewire is to remove the bucket from the center console. Underneath the console lid, there are rubber bumpers on each side of the pullout cupholder which must be removed. Under the rubber stops are two phillips head screws. Remove these screws and then remove the bucket. If you can’t get a firm hold on the bucket, you can use the cupholder to pull it out.</FONT></FONT></FONT>
<P><IMG SRC="/tech/im/articles/armrest.jpg" HEIGHT=240 WIDTH=320>
<P><FONT FACE="Arial,Helvetica"><FONT COLOR="#000000"><FONT SIZE=-1>With the bucket out, you should be able to identify an eight wire harness adjacent to the parking brake. Unplug this harness. You will be working with the end toward the rear of the car which houses female connectors and slides into the other harness plug.</FONT></FONT></FONT>
<P><IMG SRC="/tech/im/articles/plug1.jpg" HEIGHT=240 WIDTH=320>
<P><FONT FACE="Arial,Helvetica"><FONT COLOR="#000000"><FONT SIZE=-1>On the side of the harness there is a red tab. Use a flathead screwdriver to push in and up to remove the red center divider from the harness. A pair of needlenose pliers can help remove the divider.</FONT></FONT></FONT>
<P><IMG SRC="/tech/im/articles/sideofplug.jpg" HEIGHT=240 WIDTH=320><IMG SRC="/tech/im/articles/reddivider.jpg" HEIGHT=240 WIDTH=320>
<P><FONT FACE="Arial,Helvetica"><FONT COLOR="#000000"><FONT SIZE=-1>With the red divider removed, the gray tabs adjacent to each individual female connector can be pushed toward the center of the harness. With the gray tab pushed to the center, the connectors can be pushed out of the back of the harness. A flathead screwdriver works great for this. You can use the edge of the blade to push the gray tab toward the center of the harness while pushing straight down to force the connector you are working with out the back of the harness.</FONT></FONT></FONT>
<P><IMG SRC="/tech/im/articles/faceofplug.jpg" HEIGHT=240 WIDTH=320>
<P><FONT FACE="Arial,Helvetica"><FONT COLOR="#000000"><FONT SIZE=-1>The two wires you will be concerned with are the red/black and blue/red. Use the above procedure to remove these two wires from the harness and switch their positions. These two wires are positioned across from each other and should remain that way, only in opposite positions. The wiring scheme is the same for both 5.0’s and 4.6’s, Cobras and GT’s alike.</FONT></FONT></FONT>
<P><FONT FACE="Arial,Helvetica"><FONT COLOR="#000000"><FONT SIZE=-1>Reassemble the harness and plug it back together. Your foglights should now come on with your parking lamps and the switch is still active.</FONT></FONT></FONT> <BR>
<BR>
<CENTER><FONT FACE="Arial,Helvetica"><FONT COLOR="#FFFFFF"><FONT SIZE=-2><B>I</B>mages and text (c) Copyright 1998 The Corral.</FONT></FONT></FONT></CENTER>
<BR><I><FONT FACE="Arial,Helvetica"><FONT COLOR="#000099"><FONT SIZE=-1>modular how-to by: <A HREF="mailto:scpark@mindspring.com">Sean Park</A></FONT></FONT></FONT></I>
<P><FONT FACE="Arial,Helvetica"><FONT COLOR="#000000"><FONT SIZE=-1>One style factor that the F-body has on the Mustang is the ability to use the fog/driving lights without turning on the headlights. Wiring the SN-95’s foglights to work without the headlamps can be performed quickly and painlessly without cutting any wires. There are methods that allow the foglights to be used anytime the key is on. This method, however, requires that the headlamp switch be in at least position one for the foglights to be on.</FONT></FONT></FONT>
<P><FONT FACE="Arial,Helvetica"><FONT COLOR="#000000"><FONT SIZE=-1>The foglight switch in the center console is a low current switch, which activates
a high current relay in the engine bay. Contrary to popular belief, the actual power source for the foglights is not attached to this switch, nor is it in the center console. Because this is a low current switch, it is possible to switch the wire which is +12 volts when the headlights are on with the wire which is +12 when the parking lamps are on (switch and ashtray illumination). The only side effect of this swap is that when you turn on your bright lights, the illumination of the foglight switch and ashtray light are shut off, as would your foglights with the factory wiring setup. However, your foglights now stay on with your brights.</FONT></FONT></FONT>
<P><FONT FACE="Arial,Helvetica"><FONT COLOR="#000000"><FONT SIZE=-1>I originally performed this modification on my ’96 Cobra about a year and a half back
and have since performed this modification on many others cars, including people who post on the Corral. A set of blackouts over the parking lamps at dusk with the driving lights makes for a killer look.</FONT></FONT></FONT>
<P><FONT FACE="Arial,Helvetica"><FONT COLOR="#000000"><FONT SIZE=-1>The first step in performing the rewire is to remove the bucket from the center console. Underneath the console lid, there are rubber bumpers on each side of the pullout cupholder which must be removed. Under the rubber stops are two phillips head screws. Remove these screws and then remove the bucket. If you can’t get a firm hold on the bucket, you can use the cupholder to pull it out.</FONT></FONT></FONT>
<P><IMG SRC="/tech/im/articles/armrest.jpg" HEIGHT=240 WIDTH=320>
<P><FONT FACE="Arial,Helvetica"><FONT COLOR="#000000"><FONT SIZE=-1>With the bucket out, you should be able to identify an eight wire harness adjacent to the parking brake. Unplug this harness. You will be working with the end toward the rear of the car which houses female connectors and slides into the other harness plug.</FONT></FONT></FONT>
<P><IMG SRC="/tech/im/articles/plug1.jpg" HEIGHT=240 WIDTH=320>
<P><FONT FACE="Arial,Helvetica"><FONT COLOR="#000000"><FONT SIZE=-1>On the side of the harness there is a red tab. Use a flathead screwdriver to push in and up to remove the red center divider from the harness. A pair of needlenose pliers can help remove the divider.</FONT></FONT></FONT>
<P><IMG SRC="/tech/im/articles/sideofplug.jpg" HEIGHT=240 WIDTH=320><IMG SRC="/tech/im/articles/reddivider.jpg" HEIGHT=240 WIDTH=320>
<P><FONT FACE="Arial,Helvetica"><FONT COLOR="#000000"><FONT SIZE=-1>With the red divider removed, the gray tabs adjacent to each individual female connector can be pushed toward the center of the harness. With the gray tab pushed to the center, the connectors can be pushed out of the back of the harness. A flathead screwdriver works great for this. You can use the edge of the blade to push the gray tab toward the center of the harness while pushing straight down to force the connector you are working with out the back of the harness.</FONT></FONT></FONT>
<P><IMG SRC="/tech/im/articles/faceofplug.jpg" HEIGHT=240 WIDTH=320>
<P><FONT FACE="Arial,Helvetica"><FONT COLOR="#000000"><FONT SIZE=-1>The two wires you will be concerned with are the red/black and blue/red. Use the above procedure to remove these two wires from the harness and switch their positions. These two wires are positioned across from each other and should remain that way, only in opposite positions. The wiring scheme is the same for both 5.0’s and 4.6’s, Cobras and GT’s alike.</FONT></FONT></FONT>
<P><FONT FACE="Arial,Helvetica"><FONT COLOR="#000000"><FONT SIZE=-1>Reassemble the harness and plug it back together. Your foglights should now come on with your parking lamps and the switch is still active.</FONT></FONT></FONT> <BR>
<BR>
<CENTER><FONT FACE="Arial,Helvetica"><FONT COLOR="#FFFFFF"><FONT SIZE=-2><B>I</B>mages and text (c) Copyright 1998 The Corral.</FONT></FONT></FONT></CENTER>