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Old 12-02-2005, 02:44 PM   #1
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8.8 rear, 9 inch ends, disk brakes

anybody got this combination? is it possible? i would like to do a 31 spline spool w/ 31 spline axles. weld 9 inch ends onto the 8.8 so i could do away w/ c-clip eliminators, and use disk brakes. i plan to use the 11.65" cobra rear disk brakes. will i need any brackets or anything to make this work?
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Old 12-02-2005, 04:16 PM   #2
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I suspect you'll wind up having to use the FRPP M-2300-G rear disc kit for a 9" rather than the Cobra stuff, since I'm not sure anybody makes a caliper bracket that'd work. However, the 2300-G kit is still 11" in diameter and is relatively cheap. I think retail is about $380, so you should be able to get it for under $300.
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Old 12-02-2005, 05:37 PM   #3
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Or you could use the Baer 12" disc Touring kit with the 9" brackets. I think they're about $700-800 for everything you need. I can't remember what I paid at the moment. -Just another option...

The 9" brake caliper bracket holds the axle bearing in the housing end as well vs the 8.8" just bolting up. The caliper brackets are one of the major differences (8.8 vs 9) Just make sure you get the proper axle stand-off with the brakes you decide to go with. Most of the Baer brakes are a 2 1/2" stand-off. I have a used set of the 9" brackets from my Baer kit that I'm selling. With the Cobra brakes I don't know if they would bolt up to that bracket by itself once you did the conversion. I would ask on the road racing forum, the Ford tech line (810) 468-1356 - last I knew, or Baer for a good answer - they would probably know the compatibility better. New, the brackets alone are $170 for the pair from Baer. If the axle stand off and bolt pattern was the same it might work.

So figure at minimum a brake bracket swap or at worst....a different brake set-up. I just looked at the 2300-G kit - it doesn't include hoses, tubes, or parking brake cables, but it is a 2 1/2" stand off, 5lug, 2" x 3.56" Late Ford axle housing end pattern. It looks funky though - it has the deep dish rotor with the parking brake drum style shoes on the inside of the rotor, and a separate disc brake mounted normally.

Good luck in piecing it together. If you want more specifics as to what I was running send me an email...

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Old 12-03-2005, 05:55 PM   #4
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I called DTS here in Michigan and told them I wanted to weld 9" ends to my 8.8 and fill it with a spool and 33 spline axles. I told them I wanted to use my stock 95 rear disc breaks and they said no problem just let them know what setup I wanted to use. He quoted me a nice price as well and I'll be taking it down to them sortly. You may want to call them and see what they tell you.
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Old 12-03-2005, 06:32 PM   #5
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Strange now makes housing ends for a 8.8 that allows you to keep stock brakes. disk or drum.

I hope to switch mine over if the money is there once the rest of the car is done

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Old 12-04-2005, 02:23 PM   #6
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I'm about to put a spool in my 95, when I talked to strange they said that I wouldn't be able to use the factory brakes. Moser says that you can if you modify the caliper bracket, they sent me a template on where to mill the bracket and how much. If you want I can send you the file.
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Old 12-10-2005, 10:23 PM   #7
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im not sure if the ends are the same. but i noticed at the junkyard the other day that newer ford explorers w/ the 8.8" rear has rear disc brakes. i was thinking of trying to get a set of those onto my 9" housing.
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Old 12-11-2005, 12:12 AM   #8
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The explorer brakes are what the 2300-G kit is. Those are for a new style big bearing 8.8 end, which is different from a mustang 8.8 housing end. I believe it is the same pattern as a 9".
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Old 12-11-2005, 03:20 AM   #9
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oh ok, ididnt know they were different ends. they can never make it easy lol.
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Old 12-12-2005, 08:03 PM   #10
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I talked to DTS, Strange, Moser, and Currie about this topic. Currie suggested 9" ends and explorer brakes, but informed to be careful on what ends I use. DTS told me I'd have to go with the explorer style brakes. Moser said I could keep my brakes but had to modify the bracket and sent me some info on how to do it. Strange said I should just get there brake kit and 9" ends. All co. pushed 9" ends instead of eliminators. All co were freindly and helpful. But Moser spent a little more time explaining and even sent me the info so...

I'm going with Moser and am going to see if my brakes work. My theory is why buy brakes if I don't have to. The ends through Moser are only $80 so I'll give it try.
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Old 12-12-2005, 10:22 PM   #11
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Make SURE you get the Ends welded on STRAIT because the Axle tubes are WAY off.. center...
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Old 12-13-2005, 02:28 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by will78
I talked to DTS, Strange, Moser, and Currie about this topic. Currie suggested 9" ends and explorer brakes, but informed to be careful on what ends I use. DTS told me I'd have to go with the explorer style brakes. Moser said I could keep my brakes but had to modify the bracket and sent me some info on how to do it. Strange said I should just get there brake kit and 9" ends. All co. pushed 9" ends instead of eliminators. All co were freindly and helpful. But Moser spent a little more time explaining and even sent me the info so...

I'm going with Moser and am going to see if my brakes work. My theory is why buy brakes if I don't have to. The ends through Moser are only $80 so I'll give it try.
The only problem is that you'll loose your ABS because you can't use the exciter rings.

How much HP/TQ are you planning on making? I've seen plenty of SN95 cars making serious power using 31-spline c-clip axles with a truck 31-spline diff. If you were to break something, the disc brakes will hold the axles in place.
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Old 12-13-2005, 04:03 PM   #13
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when installing new axle ends should i use a stick welder or is a 115 volt mig enough? the lincoln arc/mig welder i have says it is goodup to 1/4" steel. probably be safer to just use the stick?
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Old 12-13-2005, 05:00 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by boostedfoxbody
The only problem is that you'll loose your ABS because you can't use the exciter rings.

How much HP/TQ are you planning on making? I've seen plenty of SN95 cars making serious power using 31-spline c-clip axles with a truck 31-spline diff. If you were to break something, the disc brakes will hold the axles in place.

I already did away with the abs on my car. And i'm only doing the ends because the nhra rules. I haven't been to the dyno yet, but I'm guessing around 550-600 hp. I've only run the car one day. It went 11.13 @129. It didn't hook at all as you can tell. Plus I had 3.73's with a 28" tall tire! I'm going to 4.30" and a 26" tall tire and am expecting mid 10's. I forget the time for axle retention but I know I'm there.
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Old 12-13-2005, 07:21 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 351couper
when installing new axle ends should i use a stick welder or is a 115 volt mig enough? the lincoln arc/mig welder i have says it is goodup to 1/4" steel. probably be safer to just use the stick?

I would not use a Stick personally. My 9" Ends were welded on with a Tig welder..You could use a Mig welder no problem though..
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Old 12-13-2005, 08:04 PM   #16
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This kind of work is something that I pay a pro to do.
If the tubes are not welded to the housing correctly they will crack.
if the tubes are not straightened you will have problems
if the ends are not on straight bearings will wear out.

just find a good chassis shop to do it for you.

I have used DTS they did a good job on mine
Team Z Motorsports, is one of the ones I know will do a good job,
If you have a problem you have someone to go back to most shops will stand behind the work they do.

no flame intended but
If you are asking questions about what welder to use you are not qualified to do this type of work.


trust me this is something you want done right the first time.

I think the labor to put my ends one weld and straigten the housing was about $250


My .02

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Old 12-13-2005, 08:08 PM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gray86hatch
This kind of work is something that I pay a pro to do.
If the tubes are not welded to the housing correctly they will crack.
if the tubes are not straightened you will have problems
if the ends are not on straight bearings will wear out.

just find a good chassis shop to do it for you.

I have used DTS they did a good job on mine
Team Z Motorsports, is one of the ones I know will do a good job,
If you have a problem you have someone to go back to most shops will stand behind the work they do.

no flame intended but
If you are asking questions about what welder to use you are not qualified to do this type of work.


trust me this is something you want done right the first time.

Couldn't have said it better myself.You HAVE to have a Jig to weld them on strait and 99% of people dont have this..Id definately say pay a Pro to do it right the first time..
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Old 12-13-2005, 08:34 PM   #18
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I've got a set of explorer brakes and a handful of stuff sitting in my basement if anyone is interested...I can get pics of it all, I dont know even what all is there, explorer stuff, I'll never use it
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