Good MPH, Can't Launch - Ford Mustang Forums : Corral.net Mustang Forum
 2Likes
  • 1 Post By cleanLX
  • 1 Post By StrokedFox
 
LinkBack Thread Tools Display Modes
post #1 of 27 Old 11-10-2016, 11:06 AM Thread Starter
Registered User
 
Trader Feedback: (12)
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: South Jersey
Posts: 536
Good MPH, Can't Launch

I went to Atco Tuesday night to try out the suspension (and some other) changes I made to my car. The results from the last time out are in my sig.
This car is just a toy that I don't take to the track much because it cost $300 to get towed home once! (broken axle) I would go more often, But I can't justify the cost of a trailer. Anyway...
After I bought the drag radials, I read on here that they are for auto's. Being that I'm not a serious racer, I tried them anyway. When I got the 12.003 last time, I was dumping the clutch at an unknown rpm. All I had was the stock tach. i was not getting good launches. The launches are even worse now. Best of 11.88 @ 121, a 12.06 @ 121, and a 12.88 @ 118 where I tried to slip the clutch, and boy did I. I aborted two runs, they were brutally bad. (Wheel hop, missed gears, you name it!) BTW, the tires are 6 years old. (DOT 3810)
The changes since last time:
-Skinnies and light wheels, front and rear. Same rear tires.
-Approx 200 lbs. removed. Weighs 3140# w/ me.
-Battery in rear.
-Eibach front springs w/ 1 coil removed. (It sat too high.)
-Stock 5.0 rear springs, 1 coil removed.
-Strange 10 way struts, shocks. Front full loose, rear on 5.
-No front sway bar.
-2.95 1st gear. Astro A-5.
-Fidanza Alum flywheel.
-Mc Cleod 260570R clutch disc. (Per Tony at Astro, needed a 26 spline) Used with existing King Cobra PP. No "R" on this one, but I believe this is it: http://www.mcleodracing.com/index.ph...x-26-yes.html-
-HPM lower control arms.
-Steeda adjustable uppers. (Solid mounted at body, stock bushings on axle end.) Pinion angle- 3* nose down.
-Battle boxes.
-Shift light, tach. Shifted mostly @5800. (Things were happening fast!) Through the traps @6000.
-Line lock.
-2 step, set at 4300 rpm.
-MM full length subframe connectors.
-No roll bar, though I expect to need one when I get it to launch.

I'm thinking I need to get bias tires. I want to use DOT, because I don't want to swap tires. I also need more practice. I never raced a stick car this quick before. But I wasn't getting anywhere fast with the DR's. It either hooked and hopped, or spun through 1st. I was trying to slide the clutch, but it was hard to do. When the car bogs, it's hard to control my foot.

Thoughts?

How about these? https://www.summitracing.com/parts/mtt-3551

EDIT: I just remembered that I had a chip in it the other night that wasn't in it the last time out. LaRocca burned it in 2000. Maybe that accounts for some of the mph increase.

2nd EDIT: I forgot I also changed the flywheel and clutch disc. Probably important, huh? Maybe also responsible for some mph and a reason it's hard to launch. I added them above.


'87, 105,000 mile stk short, SN89 Paxton 6 or 7 LBS, X303 Hds, E303, Cobra Int, 70 mm TB, 30# injrs, 1 5/8 full leng, no cats, 2 1/2 w/dumps, Astro A5, 3.73, MT Drg Rdls, Frnt Drag Eibach sprngs, Steeda upr HPM lwr cntrl arms, stk rear sprngs 1 coil cut, adj. struts shocks, 3150 w/drv. 11.56 118.
SpeedThrills is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #2 of 27 Old 11-10-2016, 11:39 AM
Registered User
 
bamabox's Avatar
 
Trader Feedback: (2)
Join Date: Jul 2013
Location: New Hartford, CT
Posts: 615
Garage
Looks like you've done a lot of work since last time. In your listed times, you failed to mention the most important # on your timeslip. 60'. Radials are notoriously hard to dial in on a stick car, as they will do all the things you mentioned. I have no experience with the MT tire you linked to, but you could not go wrong with the proper sized Hoosier Quick time Pro. If I'm not mistaken it is a DOT version of the Hoosier stiffwall slick I run, which is the Hoosier 26x8.5x15. It has a 9" tread so I don;t know why they call it a 8,5. I run it on a 10" wheel, for a nice flat contact patch. At the mph's of your last outing, and using the calculation I learned here on the Corral from some knowledgeable factory stock racers (1320/mph) your car should be capable if perfectly dialed in (mechanical) and executed (driver) of going 10.90-11.10. At 120 mph, you are making considerably more power than I am (114 mph) but we run around the same ET, 11.8ish. My car 60's at 1.51-1.53 like the sun coming up. The calculation for me 1320/114 puts my target ET at around 11.6. So I still have work to do, but closing in on it.

Hope you get some feedback on that MT tire, but if you don't, I know you would do well on the Hoosier stiffwall I run.


99 coupe. T56 w/2003 Mach crate motor FRPP stock N/A, Kooks LT's and X,dumps no muffs. 4.56's
Best ET 11.791 Best MPH 114.92 Best 60" 1.49
Coincidence. A convenient and overused word for the mentally lazy.
bamabox is offline  
post #3 of 27 Old 11-10-2016, 01:07 PM Thread Starter
Registered User
 
Trader Feedback: (12)
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: South Jersey
Posts: 536
[QUOTE=bamabox;17564450] In your listed times, you failed to mention the most important # on your timeslip. 60'. [QUOTE]
Yeah, the runs were so bad, I didn't think the 60's were relevant.
12.06 2.13
12.88 2.15 (Also, I missed 2nd on that run.)
11.88 1.89
Aborted runs:
1.92
2.17 (spun through 1st)
When the car was dead stock, down to the tires, I got 2.0's out of it.

I'll keep the Hoosiers in mind. Thanks

'87, 105,000 mile stk short, SN89 Paxton 6 or 7 LBS, X303 Hds, E303, Cobra Int, 70 mm TB, 30# injrs, 1 5/8 full leng, no cats, 2 1/2 w/dumps, Astro A5, 3.73, MT Drg Rdls, Frnt Drag Eibach sprngs, Steeda upr HPM lwr cntrl arms, stk rear sprngs 1 coil cut, adj. struts shocks, 3150 w/drv. 11.56 118.
SpeedThrills is offline  
 
post #4 of 27 Old 11-10-2016, 02:57 PM Thread Starter
Registered User
 
Trader Feedback: (12)
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: South Jersey
Posts: 536
Quote:
Originally Posted by bamabox View Post
At the mph's of your last outing, and using the calculation I learned here on the Corral from some knowledgeable factory stock racers (1320/mph) your car should be capable if perfectly dialed in (mechanical) and executed (driver) of going 10.90-11.10.
I agree, it's capable of a lot more. I'd be happy with consistent 11.40's or 50's, considering it's not raced much. I am completely surprised at how much power it makes. The Wallace calculator that shows it could go 11.0's at the current 121 mph, also shows that it makes 457 hp! (I have always run it when there is good to great air.)

'87, 105,000 mile stk short, SN89 Paxton 6 or 7 LBS, X303 Hds, E303, Cobra Int, 70 mm TB, 30# injrs, 1 5/8 full leng, no cats, 2 1/2 w/dumps, Astro A5, 3.73, MT Drg Rdls, Frnt Drag Eibach sprngs, Steeda upr HPM lwr cntrl arms, stk rear sprngs 1 coil cut, adj. struts shocks, 3150 w/drv. 11.56 118.
SpeedThrills is offline  
post #5 of 27 Old 11-10-2016, 03:42 PM
Registered User
 
bamabox's Avatar
 
Trader Feedback: (2)
Join Date: Jul 2013
Location: New Hartford, CT
Posts: 615
Garage
I was taught and find it to be true most of the time, that whatever you can knock off your 60' will pay you double at the big end, at the very least 1.5 times. That being the case if you could get that down in the 1.50 range, you would be low 11's.

How do you like the Astro A5?

99 coupe. T56 w/2003 Mach crate motor FRPP stock N/A, Kooks LT's and X,dumps no muffs. 4.56's
Best ET 11.791 Best MPH 114.92 Best 60" 1.49
Coincidence. A convenient and overused word for the mentally lazy.
bamabox is offline  
post #6 of 27 Old 11-10-2016, 07:45 PM Thread Starter
Registered User
 
Trader Feedback: (12)
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: South Jersey
Posts: 536
Quote:
Originally Posted by bamabox View Post
I was taught and find it to be true most of the time, that whatever you can knock off your 60' will pay you double at the big end, at the very least 1.5 times. That being the case if you could get that down in the 1.50 range, you would be low 11's.

How do you like the Astro A5?
I'm sure you're right. This thing is so all over the place, I can't do any calculating like that yet.

I only have maybe 1000 street miles on the A5, plus the 5 runs at Atco. So far, I love it. I went that route because I wanted the bolt-in aspect and it's lighter than other options. The missed shifts were strictly my fault. I've heard others mention gear whine. With my solid mounted upper control arms, I hear plenty of noises, so it's not pertinent at this point.
Mostly, I like that I can whoop on it and not worry.

'87, 105,000 mile stk short, SN89 Paxton 6 or 7 LBS, X303 Hds, E303, Cobra Int, 70 mm TB, 30# injrs, 1 5/8 full leng, no cats, 2 1/2 w/dumps, Astro A5, 3.73, MT Drg Rdls, Frnt Drag Eibach sprngs, Steeda upr HPM lwr cntrl arms, stk rear sprngs 1 coil cut, adj. struts shocks, 3150 w/drv. 11.56 118.
SpeedThrills is offline  
post #7 of 27 Old 11-10-2016, 11:28 PM
Registered User
 
Trader Feedback: (8)
Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: south, us
Posts: 2,097
A good clutch should help. Many times folks just pick the cheapest clutch they can afford, which is similar to picking a stall speed from a Jegs shelf converter and expecting it to work. And it can. Problem is, it's not always optimal, sometimes destructive. A little slippage at the hit isn't necessarily a bad thing; but it also wears the disc faster. For this reason, ideally it's hard to have both street manners and drag manners out of the same clutch.

WTT my '92 GT for a nice clean '91-'93 2.3/T5 hatch or coupe.
toddturbo is offline  
post #8 of 27 Old 11-11-2016, 08:35 AM Thread Starter
Registered User
 
Trader Feedback: (12)
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: South Jersey
Posts: 536
Thanks for reminding me about the clutch, Todd. I added a 2nd edit to my OP reflecting that (and the flywheel).

'87, 105,000 mile stk short, SN89 Paxton 6 or 7 LBS, X303 Hds, E303, Cobra Int, 70 mm TB, 30# injrs, 1 5/8 full leng, no cats, 2 1/2 w/dumps, Astro A5, 3.73, MT Drg Rdls, Frnt Drag Eibach sprngs, Steeda upr HPM lwr cntrl arms, stk rear sprngs 1 coil cut, adj. struts shocks, 3150 w/drv. 11.56 118.
SpeedThrills is offline  
post #9 of 27 Old 11-11-2016, 04:00 PM
Registered User
 
Trader Feedback: (3)
Join Date: Nov 1999
Location: Champaign, IL, US
Posts: 299
One thing that stands out to me is that you have your front struts set to full loose. What can happen is that it initially hooks and the front end comes up fast, then back down fast, unloading the rear tires. Have you tried tightening them up to have a more controlled rise in the front end?

351W, 26x10.5 MT ET Streets, Team Z goodies, AEM, NA for now
1.6253 60ft, 11.823 @ 115.2
Blue351 is offline  
post #10 of 27 Old 11-11-2016, 09:18 PM Thread Starter
Registered User
 
Trader Feedback: (12)
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: South Jersey
Posts: 536
Quote:
Originally Posted by Blue351 View Post
One thing that stands out to me is that you have your front struts set to full loose. What can happen is that it initially hooks and the front end comes up fast, then back down fast, unloading the rear tires. Have you tried tightening them up to have a more controlled rise in the front end?
No. Actually, the front isn't rising much. I don't know if it's because of a soft launch or what. I'll try that.


'87, 105,000 mile stk short, SN89 Paxton 6 or 7 LBS, X303 Hds, E303, Cobra Int, 70 mm TB, 30# injrs, 1 5/8 full leng, no cats, 2 1/2 w/dumps, Astro A5, 3.73, MT Drg Rdls, Frnt Drag Eibach sprngs, Steeda upr HPM lwr cntrl arms, stk rear sprngs 1 coil cut, adj. struts shocks, 3150 w/drv. 11.56 118.
SpeedThrills is offline  
post #11 of 27 Old 11-13-2016, 08:05 PM Thread Starter
Registered User
 
Trader Feedback: (12)
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: South Jersey
Posts: 536
A cell phone video shows the front going up and coming right down as it bogs. The struts are something I should work with, for sure.
But the car was so unmanageable, and all over the place, that I need to get a handle on it.
I would try a set of bias ply tires if I knew someone I could borrow a set from. What I'm going to do first, is get a Clutchtamer. I've read about it on here before, and was reminded of it recently. It's a lot cheaper than a new set of tires, and potentially will allow the car to be quicker because of better clutch management and the fact that radials are quicker than bias.

'87, 105,000 mile stk short, SN89 Paxton 6 or 7 LBS, X303 Hds, E303, Cobra Int, 70 mm TB, 30# injrs, 1 5/8 full leng, no cats, 2 1/2 w/dumps, Astro A5, 3.73, MT Drg Rdls, Frnt Drag Eibach sprngs, Steeda upr HPM lwr cntrl arms, stk rear sprngs 1 coil cut, adj. struts shocks, 3150 w/drv. 11.56 118.
SpeedThrills is offline  
post #12 of 27 Old 11-14-2016, 11:33 AM
Registered User
 
Trader Feedback: (3)
Join Date: Nov 1999
Location: Champaign, IL, US
Posts: 299
I am also interested in the ClutchTamer after putting a new clutch in that does not slip at all. For the past two years I've had two clutches from Promotion Performance that I burned up (blue-printed king cobra with kevlar/organic disk). I got tired of that and went with a Clutch Dynamics twin ceramic disk. Complete overkill for what I'm doing right now but the pedal effort is really easy, doesn't chatter, can be slipped like a normal clutch around town, and it holds when dumped at 6k. Now I need to get it to slip and control it before I break stuff.

351W, 26x10.5 MT ET Streets, Team Z goodies, AEM, NA for now
1.6253 60ft, 11.823 @ 115.2
Blue351 is offline  
post #13 of 27 Old 11-14-2016, 07:54 PM Thread Starter
Registered User
 
Trader Feedback: (12)
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: South Jersey
Posts: 536
Quote:
Originally Posted by Blue351 View Post
I am also interested in the ClutchTamer after putting a new clutch in that does not slip at all. For the past two years I've had two clutches from Promotion Performance that I burned up (blue-printed king cobra with kevlar/organic disk). I got tired of that and went with a Clutch Dynamics twin ceramic disk. Complete overkill for what I'm doing right now but the pedal effort is really easy, doesn't chatter, can be slipped like a normal clutch around town, and it holds when dumped at 6k. Now I need to get it to slip and control it before I break stuff.
I'm running out of time to try it this season, but I'll report on how it works when I get back to the track.

'87, 105,000 mile stk short, SN89 Paxton 6 or 7 LBS, X303 Hds, E303, Cobra Int, 70 mm TB, 30# injrs, 1 5/8 full leng, no cats, 2 1/2 w/dumps, Astro A5, 3.73, MT Drg Rdls, Frnt Drag Eibach sprngs, Steeda upr HPM lwr cntrl arms, stk rear sprngs 1 coil cut, adj. struts shocks, 3150 w/drv. 11.56 118.
SpeedThrills is offline  
post #14 of 27 Old 11-19-2016, 08:19 AM
Registered User
 
StrokedFox's Avatar
 
Trader Feedback: (12)
Join Date: Jan 2013
Location: Georgia
Posts: 319
The clutch Tony recommended is just fine, I ran it with my G Force T5, now I run a ram clutch recommended by him as well.

I tried radials for a few years and got a best of 1.83 on about a 3000 launch. Swapped to Bias ply ET Streets and no better. I finally got with Kevin Slab from baseline suspensions and really started working on my angles.

3 weeks ago I ran by best 1/8th mile time yet, a 7.45 with a 1.58 60ft. MT Bias ply, 10.5" (8.2" contact patch/really a 235 tire), leaving at 6000rpm. Full interior car, AC and Power Steering.

Go with the tires you showed above and read up on the baseline suspensions website. Then start plotting your suspension. I know guys have had success doing it all sorts of ways, but this way worked for me.

A pic from my 7.45 run.

Good Luck!

Joe
Attached Images
File Type: jpg CP6_1678web2-(ZF-10386-84573-1-002).jpg (89.2 KB, 46 views)

93 GT w/ 331
Bottom of the Barrel Budget
Working on the 60ft, thanks Kevin Slaby!
1.57 60ft and 7.45 @ 92.19, Previous best 60ft was 1.83.
StrokedFox is offline  
post #15 of 27 Old 11-28-2016, 10:23 AM
Registered User
 
TomR's Avatar
 
Trader Feedback: (2)
Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: Macon, GA
Posts: 4,651
Garage
At lower power levels, most tires have stiff enough sidewalls to not distort from excessive power. Unless the rear shocks are real weak or have thick soft rubber bushings that let the rear bounce a lot before working the shock, any vibration or shaking you are getting is most likely from axle wrap.

Axle wrap almost always comes from the bushings letting the axle slightly rotate. This lets the real housing oscillate back and forth in rotation, loading and unloading the tires.

A weak shock or soft shock mount will do the same, letting the housing hop up and down. This is especially true with stock Mustang geometry and a taller tire, because the stock geometry tries to pull the tires up into the wheel wells as soon as it hooks, and that reduces traction, and then it unhooks, and then the suspension goes back to normal, and then it hooks. The result is that shaking.

One way is by rotation from soft bushings or slop (which is why Ford added quad shocks), and the other way is poor shock control.

You cannot run a hard enough OEM style bushing in the rear end ears hard enough to stop axle wrap. If you do, the rear end will bind and you'll risk severe handling issues at high speed. You have to replace the ear bushings for the UCA's with heim joint bushings. If you don't run quad shocks, you really wat all solid bushings with heim joints and close fitting bolts. You don't want to mix metric bolts which are around .460 on the threaded area into 1/2 inch aftermarket holes, or the slop will start bending things and the suspension will rattle on the street. I can show you pictures of how bad that can be when the threads hammer a 1/2 inch bushing.

When you get all the suspension stuff tight so it never ever wheel hops no matter what, then you can work on geometry.


To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
89 LX. 363, single turbo S482 FMW, Super Vic EFI, Fox Lake Stage III heads, solid roller, glide. Holley HP EFI. (combo varies)
TomR is offline  
post #16 of 27 Old 11-30-2016, 09:40 AM
Registered User
 
cleanLX's Avatar
 
Trader Feedback: (0)
Join Date: Jun 2000
Location: Phoenix AZ. by way of Fredericton, NB, Canada
Posts: 1,510
TomR always posts good stuff.
Quote:
Originally Posted by SpeedThrills View Post
I am not expert, but will share my findings.
I had same experience as you on drag radials. Being an amateur/sportsman I did not want to invest the time and money to figure out a radial on a stick car. I also did not want a clutch that was good for the track but would live a limited life on the street.
After a bunch of research here and on other reputable forums I found a lot of more serious people reporting very favorable things on the tire you linked.... the (relatively) new MT ET Street bias R tire.
I went ahead and purchased a set (same as your link) and stuck them on an 8" wheel (not optimal).
I run stock springs front and rear (stock length and all) with simple Lakewood 70/30's up front and 50/50's out back. Baseline uppers(spherical bushings) and Pro3i lowers (spherical one end, poly the other).
Car is 3270 with me in it, has an Astro with 2.95 1st gear and 4.56 rear gear... battery up front, with a little 306 and stock heads. Simple street car.
Bam!
I went from a fluke best on radial of high 1.8 (typically worse, with a lot of driver input) to instant low 1.6 60 foots with no slipping the clutch drama driver involvement. Hold some rev's, dump the clutch and done. This on a test and tune night with not the greatest track prep.
It's a long story, but only got to make 3 passes, I'm sure with getting it figured out (adjusting the rear arms with the help of folks on here and likely a couple calls to Kevin) 1.5's would be on order.

Good luck.
StrokedFox likes this.

Mike H.
Duffee 306 and E7te's, Buddy Rawls cam. 368rwhp/363rwtq.
cleanLX is offline  
post #17 of 27 Old 11-30-2016, 04:08 PM
Registered User
 
Trader Feedback: (0)
Join Date: Feb 2014
Location: Picayune,ms
Posts: 209
Hey clean lx what air pressure you found to be best with those tires?
Also were you running a radial tire up front with the bias plys in the rear?
Just read a little about not mixing the 2 different types of tire.
Ssp 363 is offline  
post #18 of 27 Old 11-30-2016, 09:47 PM
Registered User
 
coastalref's Avatar
 
Trader Feedback: (23)
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: new jersey
Posts: 462
You mentioned solid bushings on uppers but I am assuming the lowers are using rubber bushings? What air pressure in the radials? Also to make a radial work with a stick shift car good suspension with solid mounts with as much adjustment as possible and clutch...clutch...clutch...clutch

The clutch you listed looks like an organic/ceramic hybrid? You need to learn to properly slip the clutch yourself by working it properly with your left foot or know how to get the clutch to work for you.

Eibach springs? which one? Drag race or street? Your more than likely not transferring weight properly which will lead to your wheel hop.
What rear springs? nevermind see it now, stock.

Many other variables such as instant center, weight bias etc.

In my Factory Stock car on MT ET Street R radials I ran a best of 10.76 @ 126mph @ 3050lbs with an engine that made 372rwhp. Consistent 1.44-1.49 60ft
I would leave at 7000rpm and get it to hook. See video


Matt
NMRA Coyote Stock #3300
Thanks to: Ed Curtis @ FTI; Larry's Auto Machine; DeCordre Automotive and Performance
10.26@130
coastalref is online now  
post #19 of 27 Old 11-30-2016, 11:51 PM
Registered User
 
TomR's Avatar
 
Trader Feedback: (2)
Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: Macon, GA
Posts: 4,651
Garage
I can run bottom 5's on MT ET Street DOT legal radials.

White LX coupe at 1 minute in. All these cars in True Street class are on MT DOT street legal.



To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
89 LX. 363, single turbo S482 FMW, Super Vic EFI, Fox Lake Stage III heads, solid roller, glide. Holley HP EFI. (combo varies)
TomR is offline  
post #20 of 27 Old 12-01-2016, 06:49 AM
Registered User
 
cleanLX's Avatar
 
Trader Feedback: (0)
Join Date: Jun 2000
Location: Phoenix AZ. by way of Fredericton, NB, Canada
Posts: 1,510
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ssp 363 View Post
Hey clean lx what air pressure you found to be best with those tires?
Also were you running a radial tire up front with the bias plys in the rear?
Just read a little about not mixing the 2 different types of tire.
My best 60' was with 16psi and a 5500 launch (hold 5500, floor it just before the clutch came out).
I would not take that as a gospel "best", like I say I got limited runs and as the night went on the track was going away and the d/a was going up. On that run it rolled the tires over just a hair, 1.62, could have used more rpm. As the track went away and I played around, 60's kept getting worse. At the end of the night I went back to 16psi and 5500rpm and spun to a 1.67. I'm sure with better track and more learning there are 1.5's in it.
Rear lowers are essentially these Heavy-Duty Adjustable Mustang Rear Lower Control Arms, 1979-1998
Upper arms are these THE BEST Upper Control Arm Kit on the market
Front tires are MT ET Fronts, so bias. I too have read the "do not "mix-match" warnings. I have ran the bias rear radial front on the street with the rears around 24psi and not had any issues, but, certainly don't get up around let alone over 100mph on the street, so, probably not a good comparison.

Mike H.
Duffee 306 and E7te's, Buddy Rawls cam. 368rwhp/363rwtq.
cleanLX is offline  
post #21 of 27 Old 12-01-2016, 03:21 PM
Registered User
 
StrokedFox's Avatar
 
Trader Feedback: (12)
Join Date: Jan 2013
Location: Georgia
Posts: 319
I am running the same control arm setup as CleanLX. They do work.

Joe
cleanLX likes this.

93 GT w/ 331
Bottom of the Barrel Budget
Working on the 60ft, thanks Kevin Slaby!
1.57 60ft and 7.45 @ 92.19, Previous best 60ft was 1.83.
StrokedFox is offline  
post #22 of 27 Old 05-17-2017, 11:45 AM Thread Starter
Registered User
 
Trader Feedback: (12)
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: South Jersey
Posts: 536
First, let me say I appreciate all replies. I read and considered all of them. I'm sorry for not getting back sooner, but I thought I'd wait until I went back and tried it again, which I did last night.

I bought a Clutchtamer from Weenburner (on here), and it's a very well designed and made product. I just didn't buy it for the right reasons. Mostly because it was $150, and new tires are $400. I'm know if I gave it a little time, I would have made it work. But my car is just a toy, and I only go to the track once in a while to have a little fun. I gave in and bought Mickey Thompson ET R Streets (26 X 10.50).

Last night, I went back to Atco. Conditions were probably a little slower than before, because I only went 118, as opposed to 121 before.

I'm new at driving an 11 second stick shift car.

All runs were on the 2 step at 5000. 17# of air on the 1st run, 13# on the last 2. All I changed from last time was:
- Removed tailpipes.
-Changed the skinnies. Maybe a couple pounds heavier. M/T S/R radials. I have much more confidence in them than the Chinese things that were on there.

-1st run, it spun and swerved to a 1.85 60". I lifted at 1000', in case I was going under 11.50 because I don't have a roll bar. 1000' was 9.85. Using a formula I found online, I multiplied 9.85 X 1.19 and it showed a 11.72, if I had stayed in it.

-2nd run, 1.63 60', 11.64 @ 118. I could feel it hooking harder, and it showed. I did a better burnout.

-3rd run, 1.62 60' 11.56 @ 118. It felt better than that, but the adrenaline was kicking in!

The shifting is no problem, I've been doing that in street cars for years, it's almost instinctive. I'd like to get the 60's down.
I'd also like to try leaving at 5500, but not until hooks better.

Any thought on improving the 60'? I'm thinking more practice, obviously. I was getting more comfortable with each run.

Overall, it was a blast. It's the first time I've ever run it hard (with success) off of the line.

I don't have any video's or pics. I was there by myself. I saw the track photog's flash go off, so I'll see if he posts a pic on his site.

EDIT: I found this (11.56 pass) : http://davemilcarek.com/051617a/page...20R1%20196.htm

'87, 105,000 mile stk short, SN89 Paxton 6 or 7 LBS, X303 Hds, E303, Cobra Int, 70 mm TB, 30# injrs, 1 5/8 full leng, no cats, 2 1/2 w/dumps, Astro A5, 3.73, MT Drg Rdls, Frnt Drag Eibach sprngs, Steeda upr HPM lwr cntrl arms, stk rear sprngs 1 coil cut, adj. struts shocks, 3150 w/drv. 11.56 118.
SpeedThrills is offline  
post #23 of 27 Old 05-17-2017, 01:35 PM
Registered User
 
cleanLX's Avatar
 
Trader Feedback: (0)
Join Date: Jun 2000
Location: Phoenix AZ. by way of Fredericton, NB, Canada
Posts: 1,510
I'm confused... you did, or did not by a clutchtamer?
Either way, glad the MT's worked for you, seems a lot of "stick" guys are liking them... and...
Congrats on the new bests!

Mike H.
Duffee 306 and E7te's, Buddy Rawls cam. 368rwhp/363rwtq.
cleanLX is offline  
post #24 of 27 Old 05-17-2017, 03:10 PM
Corral Elite Member
 
Saleen414's Avatar
 
Trader Feedback: (2)
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Maple Valley Wa.
Posts: 1,232
Having someone video the launch is one of the best tools you can have, or a Go-Pro stuck to the quarter panel. It is the only way you will see what is really going on and then you can make educated adjustments instead of guessing.

1989 Saleen 414 358cid SBF 2.8L Kenne Bell S/C
26 X 8.5 Hoosier
Best 1/4 mile time 8.623 @ 159.82 mph with a 1.34 60' (5.55 1/8th at 128)
Best 1/8 mile time 5.384 @ 130.75 mph with a 1.29 60'
2001 V-6 5 speed Mustang 189k miles and counting
08' Bullitt #4097 N/A 325 RWHP <<<<<FOR SALE!
Saleen414 is online now  
post #25 of 27 Old 05-17-2017, 05:19 PM Thread Starter
Registered User
 
Trader Feedback: (12)
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: South Jersey
Posts: 536
Quote:
Originally Posted by cleanLX View Post
I'm confused... you did, or did not by a clutchtamer?
Either way, glad the MT's worked for you, seems a lot of "stick" guys are liking them... and...
Congrats on the new bests!
Thanks.
I did buy it, but took it off because it would take more effort to get it right than I want to put into my part time racer. Weenburner has a good product.

'87, 105,000 mile stk short, SN89 Paxton 6 or 7 LBS, X303 Hds, E303, Cobra Int, 70 mm TB, 30# injrs, 1 5/8 full leng, no cats, 2 1/2 w/dumps, Astro A5, 3.73, MT Drg Rdls, Frnt Drag Eibach sprngs, Steeda upr HPM lwr cntrl arms, stk rear sprngs 1 coil cut, adj. struts shocks, 3150 w/drv. 11.56 118.
SpeedThrills is offline  
post #26 of 27 Old 05-17-2017, 05:22 PM Thread Starter
Registered User
 
Trader Feedback: (12)
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: South Jersey
Posts: 536
Double post.

'87, 105,000 mile stk short, SN89 Paxton 6 or 7 LBS, X303 Hds, E303, Cobra Int, 70 mm TB, 30# injrs, 1 5/8 full leng, no cats, 2 1/2 w/dumps, Astro A5, 3.73, MT Drg Rdls, Frnt Drag Eibach sprngs, Steeda upr HPM lwr cntrl arms, stk rear sprngs 1 coil cut, adj. struts shocks, 3150 w/drv. 11.56 118.

Last edited by SpeedThrills; 05-17-2017 at 07:04 PM. Reason: Double post.
SpeedThrills is offline  
post #27 of 27 Old 05-17-2017, 05:23 PM Thread Starter
Registered User
 
Trader Feedback: (12)
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: South Jersey
Posts: 536
Quote:
Originally Posted by Saleen414 View Post
Having someone video the launch is one of the best tools you can have, or a Go-Pro stuck to the quarter panel. It is the only way you will see what is really going on and then you can make educated adjustments instead of guessing.
That'll be next time, I hope, having somebody video it. There was a guy there I got talking to, be he was helping his son and I didn't want to impose.


I added a link to a pic. And a video would definitely be better.

'87, 105,000 mile stk short, SN89 Paxton 6 or 7 LBS, X303 Hds, E303, Cobra Int, 70 mm TB, 30# injrs, 1 5/8 full leng, no cats, 2 1/2 w/dumps, Astro A5, 3.73, MT Drg Rdls, Frnt Drag Eibach sprngs, Steeda upr HPM lwr cntrl arms, stk rear sprngs 1 coil cut, adj. struts shocks, 3150 w/drv. 11.56 118.
SpeedThrills is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
Reply

Bookmarks

Quick Reply
Message:
Options

Register Now



In order to be able to post messages on the Ford Mustang Forums : Corral.net Mustang Forum forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name, your email address and other required details in the form below.

User Name:
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.

Password:


Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid email address for yourself.

Email Address:
OR

Log-in









Human Verification

In order to verify that you are a human and not a spam bot, please enter the answer into the following box below based on the instructions contained in the graphic.



Thread Tools
Show Printable Version Show Printable Version
Email this Page Email this Page
Display Modes
Linear Mode Linear Mode



Posting Rules  
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On

 
For the best viewing experience please update your browser to Google Chrome