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Old 08-02-2011, 08:58 AM   #1
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Tire Pressure for Nitto's

Need some idea's on tire pressure from my fellow corral folks.

Ran at the track about a month ago and best I could get was 14.7

I'm running Nitto NT555's, the 14.7 run was with 32 psi in the front and back. I didn't even think about adjusting tire pressure.

So I'm heading back to the track again, what would be a good pressure to start out at in order to help bring the time down a bit?

I realize Nt555's aren't the greatest tire, but it's what I've got, until I get a set of dr's.
Here's my last time at the track
1st Time down the track (TAD)
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Old 08-02-2011, 10:38 AM   #2
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i use the nt05r's run them at 14-15 psi, lots of heat!! i read something in a mustang mag where they compared the 555r's to the nt05r's. the nt05's are stickier, but require more heat, and i think the 555's liked less air then the 05's. so start @ 15psi and go down maybe...?
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Old 08-02-2011, 10:57 AM   #3
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I ran 13.5 on my nittos and got it to 60' in the 1.6 range.


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Old 08-02-2011, 11:34 AM   #4
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wow....so almost half of what I was running on the street. 15 psi is safe for NT555's at the track? I figured around 20-25. Glad I asked.
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Old 08-02-2011, 11:38 AM   #5
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Yes, at the track lower it to 13-15 psi.


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Old 08-02-2011, 02:55 PM   #6
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Wouldn't tire and wheel size make a difference??
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Old 08-02-2011, 03:26 PM   #7
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Quote:
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I ran 13.5 on my nittos and got it to 60' in the 1.6 range.


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HMMM, 1.6 60ft??? is this a stick car or auto?
I cant get mine under a 1.9 60ft. mine is a stick tho, using a 2 step wired thru the clutch, set @ 1800 rpm. so whats ur secret, what rpm are you leaving from? how much heat are you putting to the tire?
Thanks
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Old 08-02-2011, 05:49 PM   #8
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I went a 1.68 on 4-5 year old 555Rs earlier this year. Stick car. 15psi tire pressure. Probably could have gotten more out of it, but it's my cruiser
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Old 08-02-2011, 06:03 PM   #9
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I like around 15-16 psi in mine.

315/35/17 on a 10.5" wheel and I cut a 1.62 60-foot with a 5-speed.

Lots of heat in the tires and slip the clutch off the line and feed in power to keep from shocking the tires.
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Old 08-02-2011, 07:09 PM   #10
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Stick car with i think 275 40 17s


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Old 08-02-2011, 09:48 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Blk88GT View Post
I went a 1.68 on 4-5 year old 555Rs earlier this year. Stick car. 15psi tire pressure. Probably could have gotten more out of it, but it's my cruiser
that's very impressive, aye

on a serious note... what clutch are you running and can you tell us about the technique you used starting with the burnout and suspension setup
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Old 08-02-2011, 09:55 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tireburner163 View Post
I like around 15-16 psi in mine.

315/35/17 on a 10.5" wheel and I cut a 1.62 60-foot with a 5-speed.

Lots of heat in the tires and slip the clutch off the line and feed in power to keep from shocking the tires.
keep from shocking the tires huh, well, thats not gonna happen leaving with a 2 step...... its either not moving, or moving all at once. any special suspension on yours?? im running stock springs, with kyb agx adjustables, i think the dial is set on 2 of 10........ suggestions?
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Old 08-03-2011, 12:01 AM   #13
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keep from shocking the tires huh, well, thats not gonna happen leaving with a 2 step...... its either not moving, or moving all at once. any special suspension on yours?? im running stock springs, with kyb agx adjustables, i think the dial is set on 2 of 10........ suggestions?
You have to remember that drag radials won't take a shock. Once their planted and you're moving you can drop the hammer and they'll stick. It's that initial clutch dump that is tricky.

Don't use the two step. Bring your RPM's up where you want (around 2500 is where I leave), then start slipping out on the clutch while feeding in throttle. Once the car rocks back and you're moving a little and the tires are stuck, hammer down on it and away you go.


My car is a 1997 Cobra that makes 480 rwhp on 13 lbs.

UPR k-member and a-arms, 14" 150lb coil overs on the front, stock springs on the rear, strange 10-way adjustable shocks and struts, baseline suspension street uppers and racecraft adjustable lowers with poly bushings.
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Old 08-03-2011, 01:28 PM   #14
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that's very impressive, aye

on a serious note... what clutch are you running and can you tell us about the technique you used starting with the burnout and suspension setup
Just to be clear, this is in my Chevy II, not the Mustang.

I'm running a custom clutch from Bully. It's an unsprung hub and 6 puck ceramic disk. It's got a Moser 4 link with QA1 coil overs. I ran them 3 clicks from full soft.

I've got the new NT05Rs on the car now and will likely go back and make a few more passes just to see how they perform. I'm confident I could run a 1.5x with the car on either tire.

Tightening up the rear shocks a few clicks made a huge difference in the 60ft.
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Old 08-06-2011, 09:39 PM   #15
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Originally Posted by tireburner163 View Post
You have to remember that drag radials won't take a shock. Once their planted and you're moving you can drop the hammer and they'll stick. It's that initial clutch dump that is tricky.

Don't use the two step. Bring your RPM's up where you want (around 2500 is where I leave), then start slipping out on the clutch while feeding in throttle. Once the car rocks back and you're moving a little and the tires are stuck, hammer down on it and away you go.


My car is a 1997 Cobra that makes 480 rwhp on 13 lbs.

UPR k-member and a-arms, 14" 150lb coil overs on the front, stock springs on the rear, strange 10-way adjustable shocks and struts, baseline suspension street uppers and racecraft adjustable lowers with poly bushings.
whats your 60 foot times using this method??
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Old 08-07-2011, 08:57 AM   #16
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Old 08-07-2011, 10:53 PM   #17
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Running low air pressure on Radial tires doesn't work, The "footprint" of a radial is different than the footprint of a bias ply. If you lower the pressure on a radial tire, it pushes the tread together making a narrower tread width. Run the air pressure that the tire has on the side of the tire.
Are you serious?? not trying to be an ass, just wondering why everyone else is running 13-16 psi, and a article in one of the stang magazines, was running in this range also. can you or anyone back this theory up? again, not being a smart ass, just a bold theory that id like explained
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Old 08-08-2011, 07:46 AM   #18
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Gup, No problem.
There are 2 measurements, one is easy the other is very difficult unless you have the right stuff.
1st air one tire up to recommended psi.
Get your self 4 peaces of paper that are wider than the tire, stick the paper as far under the tire as you can, on all 4 sides, Hold the paper in place and move the car off the paper, This is your tires footprint for that tire and air pressure.
Now lower the pressure to whatever you think, keeping in mind that too low a pressure is dangerous on a radial tire. Now do the test again. You should have a side to side difference but not a front to back, You don't normally ride on the side of a tire. There may even have a slight longer footprint but this is negated by the squishing together of the tread pattern. And low air pressure on a radial tire is dangerous.
The second involves some way to look at the bottom tread while weight is on the tire. Tire manufacturers use a special built Plexiglas floor that you can get under, If you can do this it will make it easy to understand, with the recommended tire pressure the treads will be separated, with low air pressure the treads will be narrowed or close together.
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Old 08-08-2011, 10:43 AM   #19
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thanks for the info, makes sense i guess. just never thought of it that way. always figured it had a wider pattern aired down, much like when the off road guys air down there tires for the trail to get a wider foot print.
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Old 08-08-2011, 10:58 AM   #20
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whats your 60 foot times using this method??

1.62 is my best. I average a 1.64-1.65


Here's a video from a race I ran in a street class that required 17+" drag radials. The white Cobra at 1:05 is my car. That's a 1.65 60-foot on that pass.

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Old 08-08-2011, 11:13 AM   #21
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Running low air pressure on Radial tires doesn't work, The "footprint" of a radial is different than the footprint of a bias ply. If you lower the pressure on a radial tire, it pushes the tread together making a narrower tread width. Run the air pressure that the tire has on the side of the tire.
Quote:
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Gup, No problem.
There are 2 measurements, one is easy the other is very difficult unless you have the right stuff.
1st air one tire up to recommended psi.
Get your self 4 peaces of paper that are wider than the tire, stick the paper as far under the tire as you can, on all 4 sides, Hold the paper in place and move the car off the paper, This is your tires footprint for that tire and air pressure.
Now lower the pressure to whatever you think, keeping in mind that too low a pressure is dangerous on a radial tire. Now do the test again. You should have a side to side difference but not a front to back, You don't normally ride on the side of a tire. There may even have a slight longer footprint but this is negated by the squishing together of the tread pattern. And low air pressure on a radial tire is dangerous.
The second involves some way to look at the bottom tread while weight is on the tire. Tire manufacturers use a special built Plexiglas floor that you can get under, If you can do this it will make it easy to understand, with the recommended tire pressure the treads will be separated, with low air pressure the treads will be narrowed or close together.


These posts can be summed up in one word....WRONG

The air pressure on the side of the tire is maximum safe pressure you can run in the tire, not a recommendation on making it hook best.

So what if the tread "squishes" together. The gaps in the thread don't provide traction. The rubber actually contacting the concrete does. So if you air the tire down it will increase the surface area which puts more tire on the ground, which equals more traction.

Now I will agree with you that a bias-ply and a radial work differently. But a radial is gonna work best at 15-19 psi. You saying that they work best at 32+ psi is just laughable. Now you can go too far (10-13 psi) and the tire will start cupping, but that's another story all together as nobody has mentioned tire pressure that low in this thread.
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Old 08-08-2011, 11:34 AM   #22
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Your an idiot

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Old 08-08-2011, 12:10 PM   #23
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For the tire pressure question, Run as low air pressure as you want, It's your car and your tires, I don't care.
I would add one thing, check with a drag radial tire engineer about low air pressure in their tire.

Mickey Thompson recommends 12-18 psi in their drag radials.

http://www.mickeythompsontires.com/tech.php?bulletin=s3

Quote:
ET STREET RADIAL


On the racetrack DO NOT use starting pressures below 11 psi.

Recommend pressures for:

P295 and larger sizes: 12-16 psi

P275 and smaller sizes: 14-18 psi

On the highway we recommend running 75% -100% of maximum psi stated on the sidewall of the tire. This will vary depending on the weight of the vehicle.
Here's another helpful little tip from Mickey Thompson

Quote:
Again, the pressure listed on the tire sidewall is the maximum pressure and not intended as a guide for normal inflation pressure.

Other than talking in circles and spouting off statements about engineer's, do you actually have any proof to back up your claims?

Protip: If you're doing it differently than everybody else.....you're probably doing it wrong.


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Tireburner, There were some very cool cars and a couple not so cool, I liked the new black mustang handing that ricer his ticket home.


The black 2011 is procharged and if you watch at 0:53 the "ricer" steps off in his ass.

Said Civic is also owned by a 40 something year old dude and goes 11.30's
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Old 08-08-2011, 01:28 PM   #24
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Did I mention Tireburners an idiot

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Old 08-08-2011, 06:47 PM   #25
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What we dud with my nittos was drop it down to 13psi, I had a guy stand behind the car in the burn out box to make sure the tires were heating up evenly across the tires.


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Old 08-08-2011, 08:06 PM   #26
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Tireburner:
Sweet video, very clean looking stang you have !!!

SO, since i have kyb agx adjustables shocks and struts, what should the REAR be set @ ?? 1 being the softest and i think the go to 8, assuming thats the hardest.

Also i have the fronts set @ 1 of 4, assuming the higher number the stiffer. any suggestions to get a little more weight transfer?? should i pull the spring bumpers from the stock springs?

thanks for any help!!
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Old 08-08-2011, 08:19 PM   #27
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Gup
"any suggestions to get a little more weight transfer?? "
Do you have a "race" car? If so then get a 4 link setup. If you go that way, get someone that knows how to set it up. People try to set up a 4 link and lift one wheel.
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Old 08-08-2011, 11:41 PM   #28
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Gup, what suspension is on the car now? Front and rear.



Quote:
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Gup
"any suggestions to get a little more weight transfer?? "
Do you have a "race" car? If so then get a 4 link setup. If you go that way, get someone that knows how to set it up. People try to set up a 4 link and lift one wheel.


So you're idea for better traction on a mild h/c/i blower car is to backhalf it???


A bit over kill don't you think? I'm glad you aren't my doctor.

"That's a nasty hangnail Mr Johnson....that leg is gonna have to go"
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Old 08-09-2011, 09:10 AM   #29
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Tireburner= idiot
save the leg, remove the brain, wait, never mind.

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Old 08-09-2011, 11:16 AM   #30
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Gup
"any suggestions to get a little more weight transfer?? "
Do you have a "race" car? If so then get a 4 link setup. If you go that way, get someone that knows how to set it up. People try to set up a 4 link and lift one wheel.
Not a "race" car, stock springs, adjustable struts/shocks. just looking to get into the 11's with the power i have, i dont see why thats not possible. i think the 60ft os whats holding me back from running the 11's. cutting anywhere from a 1.9-2.2 60 foot. trapping @ 122-124mph.

Weight transfer, meaning make what i currently have bite a little better. ie: changling the settings on the shocks to the best they can be

thanks
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Old 08-09-2011, 11:21 AM   #31
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[QUOTE=tireburner163;10622554]Gup, what suspension is on the car now? Front and rear.
Stock springs all the way around, adjustable KYB AGX adjustable all the way around also.

Just looking to utilitize what i have now to go 11's. running a 12.1 @ 122 now with anywhere between a 1.9-2.2 60ft.

i guess what im asking, how stiff should the rear shocks be set??
How stiff should the front be set? right now i have the fronts set on the softest, and the rear dialed down the second softest i can get them.

any suggestions?? does the rear need to "squish" or should a person set the rear up stiffer?
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Old 08-09-2011, 11:52 AM   #32
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Gup
Pro stocks, funny cars, dragsters don't squish, the are stiff, the difference is the tire compound and the width of the tire.
I would say make the rear shocks as stiff as you can, Get the widest tire that will fit under your car with the stickiest compound. Look into tire compounds, probably from some one like M/T. The softer the compound the quicker the tire will wear out, and the more traction it will have.
PM me and I will explain how a 4 link works. Just in case you ever want some real traction.

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Old 08-09-2011, 12:52 PM   #33
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Quote:
Originally Posted by flaming mustang View Post
Oat burner asked "any suggestions to get a little more weight transfer?? "

The 4 link transfers weight, just as he asked.

I'm not sure what you mean by "back half it". You can put a 4 link on a mild street car.

I guess I should have explained what a 4 link does

save the leg, remove the brain, wait, never mind.

Yea....you're pretty much an idiot.
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Old 08-09-2011, 12:54 PM   #34
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Originally Posted by gupthefish View Post
Stock springs all the way around, adjustable KYB AGX adjustable all the way around also.


What control arms?


I would leave the front struts where they are at and adjust the rear's to 4 if they are 8-way adjustable.
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Old 08-09-2011, 01:41 PM   #35
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Tire Burner?
That's not what your mother said, Phuc You, oh yea, idiot

Last edited by flaming mustang; 08-09-2011 at 02:07 PM.
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