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#1 |
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Registered User
Trader Feedback: (18)
Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: Illinois
Posts: 600
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Looking for suggestions (Pics)
I am looking for ways to get more travel out of my Strange 10 ways. I am using a 12" 170# spring and I have posted a pic of it "unloaded." I am going to change them because I think they are too heavy. 130# 12in springs are too soft so I guess that leaves me with 150s. Do you guys think 12" or 14"?. I know the 12" settles quicker, but does a longer spring help transfer weight better?
Also, do my CC plates look like they are pulling too much of the strut into the engine bay? Anything else I can do for more travel? I am thinking of cutting the bushings down. Bad idea? Open to suggestions FWIW I am also using Team Z relocated uppers, double adj lowers, 4.56 gear, 255/60 MT DR, and a footbraked C4. ![]() ![]() ![]()
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"The frustration of poor performance lingers long after the cheapest price is forgotten" Last edited by GrimLX; 07-25-2010 at 05:26 PM. |
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#2 |
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Registered User
Trader Feedback: (7)
Join Date: Mar 2003
Location: Williamstown, WV
Posts: 1,809
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What brand CC plates are those? Installing the bearing plate between the shock tower top and the main plate will gain a little. The spacer bushings look a little thick as well. The factory front control arm bushings are inherently "binding" which will slow down the rate of travel. I like my 12" 150's.
On another note, ditch that little air cleaner for the biggest one that will fit. Just my .02$.
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91 notch, 408W, 10.5 comp, Jay Allen cam, Crane linkbars, Scorpion rockers, vic jr intake/heads, Canton pan, Mac longtubes, C4, UPR adj. uppers/lowers, Strange struts/shocks, subframe connectors, wild rides 6pt, Team Z k-member/anti-roll bar, MSD ignition. Last edited by Mattstang65; 07-25-2010 at 08:55 PM. |
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#3 | |
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Registered User
Trader Feedback: (18)
Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: Illinois
Posts: 600
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Quote:
The CC plates are QA1's. I flipped the bearing plate, but I didn't think to put it under the main plate. Looks like it might hit the shock tower though. I'll look at it. Thanks for the idea
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"The frustration of poor performance lingers long after the cheapest price is forgotten" |
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#4 |
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Registered User
Trader Feedback: (2)
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: SE michigan
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Id try a 12/150, also I would cut the spacers on the caster and camber plates, they look very long!
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Team Z motorsports When your ready to get serious Team Z motorsports http://youtu.be/XRBFIHKflx4 Find us on Facebook http://www.facebook.com/pages/Team-Z-Motorsports/191572224404 |
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#5 |
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Registered User
Trader Feedback: (30)
Join Date: Nov 2001
Location: Kettering,OH
Posts: 898
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I agree with Dave, but have you scaled the car? if the front end is light, which it looks to be you may not be to far out to try a 12/130
Mine is 1638 front the 130 seems to be working okay so far...
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Precision Autosports MCRP Victory Metal Fab Kil Kare Speedway |
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#6 | |
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Registered User
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Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: Illinois
Posts: 600
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Quote:
Thanks
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"The frustration of poor performance lingers long after the cheapest price is forgotten" |
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#7 |
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Registered User
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Join Date: Sep 2004
Location: overland park kansas
Posts: 1,309
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If you're looking for more travel, I'd go with the 14". 130# shouldn't have touching coils, it's a pretty common stiffness. If you think it's too light, try 150#. That's what I'm running but I've got iron heads and a brass radiator. Have you test fitted a drop base air cleaner?
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#8 |
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Registered User
Trader Feedback: (81)
Join Date: Nov 2001
Location: Battle Creek, Mi
Posts: 6,464
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Springs have nothing to do with travel. Ride height and the strut mounting are all that control that.
Go with what Dave recomends. CC plates deff need some mods to work better Tim
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86 mustang 418 FTI LS3 Mast intake FTI hyd roller Holley EFI 275 MT Pump gas 93 oct. 9.53 140.73 1.33 60' 6.05 113.58 HR Drag Week 2007 SB-NA Runner Up with help from My wife and daughter's 2 www.flowtechinduction.com www.boozebrothersracing.com |
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#9 | |
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Registered User
Trader Feedback: (18)
Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: Illinois
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Quote:
I have started modding the plates. I removed the welded in bolts (nice) in the hub, and installed it from the other direction so the hub can be put under the plate without hitting the tower. I also cut the spacers down on a lathe. 12" 150# springs are on order. I don't know why they made these like this; I installed them as per directions, and I had less than 3" of travel. I think that combined with the dump truck springs were killing me. Hopefully it works out. Thanks everyone!!
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"The frustration of poor performance lingers long after the cheapest price is forgotten" |
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#10 | |
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Join Date: Mar 2003
Location: Williamstown, WV
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Quote:
Sounds like your heading the right way.
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91 notch, 408W, 10.5 comp, Jay Allen cam, Crane linkbars, Scorpion rockers, vic jr intake/heads, Canton pan, Mac longtubes, C4, UPR adj. uppers/lowers, Strange struts/shocks, subframe connectors, wild rides 6pt, Team Z k-member/anti-roll bar, MSD ignition. |
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#11 |
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Registered User
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Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: Illinois
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I hope so. I don't know if I will be able to test it anytime soon. I think I found a buyer for all my 302 stuff so I might be calling it a season. And getting rid of that goofy, ugly HEI. We will see.
I have also been debating going to a slick tire, as track prep is awful here anymore. Or atleast get a wider radial; I measured this 255 and it's barely 8" wide.
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"The frustration of poor performance lingers long after the cheapest price is forgotten" |
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#13 |
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Registered User
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Location: Illinois
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Benton, Charleston, or Gateway mainly. All of them are about 1 hour or less from me.
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"The frustration of poor performance lingers long after the cheapest price is forgotten" |
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#14 |
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Registered User
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Join Date: Jun 2009
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Forgot to add, it looks like the CC plate mods gained me 1 1/8" of travel if anyone is looking to do it.
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