Manual brakes upgrade on 1966 GT - Ford Mustang Forums : Corral.net Mustang Forum
 
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post #1 of 7 Old 11-06-2016, 11:27 AM Thread Starter
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Manual brakes upgrade on 1966 GT

I've got a '66 GT fastback that currently has what might be OEM front discs and rear drums. The brakes are all manually actuated. In keeping with the simplicity of this setup, can I just get a kit from say, North Race Cars to upgrade the brakes to modern Ford Mustang GT or Cobra brakes and be done with it? Or do I need to mess with the prop valve and other stuff. Cheers!


'89 5.0L LX hatch: all 90mm 2.2L Blowzilla Dart Iron Eagle 306 @ 8.4:1, ported Vic Jr heads, TMoss ported GT40 lower, Deka 80# injectors, EDIS8, GUFB-A9L2-Moates tuned, Tremec 3550, 3.31 gears w/31-spline TruTrac
'66 GT 2+2 Fastback: carb'd 289, Canfield heads - EFI transformation pending

'71 Mach 1: totaled - R.I.P.
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post #2 of 7 Old 11-14-2016, 11:07 AM
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shaker666,

Shawn Burgess at Street or Track has scienced out the best brake systems for our vintage mustangs. Shawn is great to work with and will answer any and all of your questions. His products are engineered to have the best performance to value ratio! You will not be dissapointed.

http://www.streetortrack.com/Brake-S...uide-p-11.html

Regards,
Henry V

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post #3 of 7 Old 12-29-2016, 02:13 PM Thread Starter
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I'm not necessarily looking for the best, but simply upgrading the rear to disc brakes. The North Racecars kit works just fine, but I've got an issue locating the rotor accurately since there's no hub centric locator. Does anyone make one?

'89 5.0L LX hatch: all 90mm 2.2L Blowzilla Dart Iron Eagle 306 @ 8.4:1, ported Vic Jr heads, TMoss ported GT40 lower, Deka 80# injectors, EDIS8, GUFB-A9L2-Moates tuned, Tremec 3550, 3.31 gears w/31-spline TruTrac
'66 GT 2+2 Fastback: carb'd 289, Canfield heads - EFI transformation pending

'71 Mach 1: totaled - R.I.P.
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post #4 of 7 Old 01-02-2017, 01:16 AM
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I'm not necessarily looking for the best, but simply upgrading the rear to disc brakes. The North Racecars kit works just fine, but I've got an issue locating the rotor accurately since there's no hub centric locator. Does anyone make one?

There's really nothing to be gained by going to rear disc brakes on these cars unless you don't like changing drum brake shoes. I have a 66 and hang out on a vintage board where a lot of guys road race. They all use rear drums. Shaun from Street or Track has some really nice brake kits for the front. Upgraded pads for the stock KH which is actually a very decent brake set up. He also has a 12"x1.25" or a 13"x1.25" kit. The big problem with the stock set up is the pad material. These pads use to have asbestos and a higher friction coefficient. Going to a set of Porterfeld pads would make a big difference. opentracker.com and I believe Street or Track LLC (Shaun) both offer a 11"x2.25" rear drum kit. Shaun also has some killer high quality suspension products which I use on my 66 for a great handling car. Seriously, rear discs aren't needed.
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post #5 of 7 Old 01-02-2017, 01:45 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Huskinhano1 View Post
There's really nothing to be gained by going to rear disc brakes on these cars unless you don't like changing drum brake shoes. I have a 66 and hang out on a vintage board where a lot of guys road race. They all use rear drums. Shaun from Street or Track has some really nice brake kits for the front. Upgraded pads for the stock KH which is actually a very decent brake set up. He also has a 12"x1.25" or a 13"x1.25" kit. The big problem with the stock set up is the pad material. These pads use to have asbestos and a higher friction coefficient. Going to a set of Porterfeld pads would make a big difference. opentracker.com and I believe Street or Track LLC (Shaun) both offer a 11"x2.25" rear drum kit. Shaun also has some killer high quality suspension products which I use on my 66 for a great handling car. Seriously, rear discs aren't needed.
I can't stand changing drum brake shoes. They are infinitely more time consuming to service than disc brakes. At this stage I just need hub-centric rings to locate the rotor accurately and I think I may have found them at motorsport-tech.com.

'89 5.0L LX hatch: all 90mm 2.2L Blowzilla Dart Iron Eagle 306 @ 8.4:1, ported Vic Jr heads, TMoss ported GT40 lower, Deka 80# injectors, EDIS8, GUFB-A9L2-Moates tuned, Tremec 3550, 3.31 gears w/31-spline TruTrac
'66 GT 2+2 Fastback: carb'd 289, Canfield heads - EFI transformation pending

'71 Mach 1: totaled - R.I.P.
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post #6 of 7 Old 01-17-2017, 01:56 AM Thread Starter
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So does anyone know what to replace the stock master cylinder (single chamber) with to make it work with factory KH front discs and upgraded SN95 Cobra rear discs? I'm guessing a prop valve of some sort will need to be plumbed in and a stock one if it exists, will need to be removed.

'89 5.0L LX hatch: all 90mm 2.2L Blowzilla Dart Iron Eagle 306 @ 8.4:1, ported Vic Jr heads, TMoss ported GT40 lower, Deka 80# injectors, EDIS8, GUFB-A9L2-Moates tuned, Tremec 3550, 3.31 gears w/31-spline TruTrac
'66 GT 2+2 Fastback: carb'd 289, Canfield heads - EFI transformation pending

'71 Mach 1: totaled - R.I.P.
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post #7 of 7 Old 02-26-2017, 05:09 PM
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So does anyone know what to replace the stock master cylinder (single chamber) with to make it work with factory KH front discs and upgraded SN95 Cobra rear discs? I'm guessing a prop valve of some sort will need to be plumbed in and a stock one if it exists, will need to be removed.
Try this guy. Classic Mustang Disc Brake Conversions and Power Steering
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