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Old 07-12-2010, 10:49 AM   #1
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Question My 8" is ready to blow up....what to do???

I have a 67 with a 393w (500+hp).

My poor little 8 inch is ready to blow up.....


1) I have my father-in-law who has a few 9 inch rears off full size ford, so I "could" shorten the housing buy new ends and a posi and gears and rebuild it.

2) I can get a complete 3:31 posi 8.8" rear end for $350 plus shipping....and then I would have to fab it for spring perches and probably shorten the housing and get new axles.

3) Save up and buy a complete 9" rear end.


I also, think it would be really stupid to NOT change over to rear disk brakes...considering my emergeny brake does not work at all....(F'ing stupid design!!!)


What do you guys suggest.

Money is TIGHT.
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Old 07-12-2010, 11:15 AM   #2
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If I am not badly mistaken a Lincoln Versallies rear is a direct bolt in, has the disc brakes and is a 9". I do believe you also need the parking brake pieces with the rear. Someone correct me if I am wrong. OOPS!! I think that is for 64-66. Sorry
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Old 07-12-2010, 02:58 PM   #3
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I HAVE A 9" REAR END OUT OF A 69 MACH; ITS A 28 SPLINE TRAC LOC (POSI) W/ 3.73 GEAR; THIS WOULD BE A DIRECT BOLT IN, ALL 67-70 MUSTANGS. I'M LOOKING TO GET $600, BUT WOULD NEGOTIATE TO COVER THE SHIPPING.
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Old 07-13-2010, 08:00 AM   #4
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8.8's out of Foxbody's are about the same width as a 67-70 Mustang rear end. You will need to weld perches on wit hthe correct pinion angle. You would need to do that with any of the truck 9" housings too. The 9" you have, you can reuse parts from the 8"...the ends and the axles. If you are on a tight budget I wouldn't buy a new rear end. Disc brakes on the rear really isn't a necessity, good drum brakes on the rear will work fine especially for drag racing.

The Versailles rear end is convenient, it will bolt in, and for 67-70 it is 1.25" narrower than stock...I had one, the E-brake is difficult to engage. I even installed a center pull floor brake handle in hopes of improving it. It helped a little but time, money and effort that went into it outweighed the minimal improvement. I still had to jam on it just to get it to hold on an incline. I got rid of my Versailles rear a couple years ago because of the E-brake issues.

If you must have disc brakes and want a good working E-brake try the late model rear brakes. The E-brake works GREAT!

My suggestion: find an 8.8, do 5 lug and rear disc swap. ..."the Fox-body Mustang 8.8 rear is a mere 31/48-inch wider than the stock 8-inch '67[to 70] Mustang rear."

Quote:
Originally Posted by 67mike View Post
I have a 67 with a 393w (500+hp).
My poor little 8 inch is ready to blow up.....
1) I have my father-in-law who has a few 9 inch rears off full size ford, so I "could" shorten the housing buy new ends and a posi and gears and rebuild it.
2) I can get a complete 3:31 posi 8.8" rear end for $350 plus shipping....and then I would have to fab it for spring perches and probably shorten the housing and get new axles.
3) Save up and buy a complete 9" rear end.
I also, think it would be really stupid to NOT change over to rear disk brakes...considering my emergeny brake does not work at all....(F'ing stupid design!!!)
What do you guys suggest.
Money is TIGHT.
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Old 07-13-2010, 10:10 AM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by latamud View Post
8.8's out of Foxbody's are about the same width as a 67-70 Mustang rear end. You will need to weld perches on wit hthe correct pinion angle. You would need to do that with any of the truck 9" housings too. The 9" you have, you can reuse parts from the 8"...the ends and the axles. If you are on a tight budget I wouldn't buy a new rear end. Disc brakes on the rear really isn't a necessity, good drum brakes on the rear will work fine especially for drag racing.

The Versailles rear end is convenient, it will bolt in, and for 67-70 it is 1.25" narrower than stock...I had one, the E-brake is difficult to engage. I even installed a center pull floor brake handle in hopes of improving it. It helped a little but time, money and effort that went into it outweighed the minimal improvement. I still had to jam on it just to get it to hold on an incline. I got rid of my Versailles rear a couple years ago because of the E-brake issues.

If you must have disc brakes and want a good working E-brake try the late model rear brakes. The E-brake works GREAT!

My suggestion: find an 8.8, do 5 lug and rear disc swap. ..."the Fox-body Mustang 8.8 rear is a mere 31/48-inch wider than the stock 8-inch '67[to 70] Mustang rear."

An 8.8" will hold up to 500+ ft/lbs of torque????????
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Old 07-13-2010, 10:33 AM   #6
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a 8.8 is just about as strong as any 9 in
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Old 07-13-2010, 10:46 AM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 2stangcoupes View Post
a 8.8 is just about as strong as any 9 in
I don't know.....I have heard of lots of axles breaking with a lot less power than I have.

I think I am going 9".....do it right, for a few extra$$$$.
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Old 07-13-2010, 12:45 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 67mike View Post
An 8.8" will hold up to 500+ ft/lbs of torque????????
Mine has, but I don't drag race either. It's strictly a street car. I have an 8.8 from a 95 GT behind a 429.
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Old 07-13-2010, 01:48 PM   #9
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Quote:
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Mine has, but I don't drag race either. It's strictly a street car. I have an 8.8 from a 95 GT behind a 429.
Here is my logic:


I can build a 9" rear end for under $1500.00 that should take anything I can throw at it....

Or I could spend $1000.00 on a 8.8 that "Might" take what I throw at it.

The answer is clear.

In the words of a wise man: You can do it right, or you can do it again.
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Old 07-13-2010, 01:52 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 67mike View Post
An 8.8" will hold up to 500+ ft/lbs of torque????????
When "money is TIGHT", you can make it work. If you build an 8.8 or a 9 to handle the power it will hold up. I have a 408 Clevor and I'm running an 8.8. I'm a budget builder too. If you're interested in a built 9" for your car I have a Danny miller 67-70 Mustang rear end housing, 31 spline 9" 3rd member w/ Richmond 3.70 gears, and Wilwood rear disc brake kit, all new in box. Just need axles and it's complete. Picked it up (back when I had a job) from a guy parting out his 67 project. I can't use it in my 66, it's too wide. Danny Miller stuff isn't cheap though. PM if you're interested.
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Old 07-13-2010, 09:40 PM   #11
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Quote:
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When "money is TIGHT", you can make it work. If you build an 8.8 or a 9 to handle the power it will hold up. I have a 408 Clevor and I'm running an 8.8. I'm a budget builder too. If you're interested in a built 9" for your car I have a Danny miller 67-70 Mustang rear end housing, 31 spline 9" 3rd member w/ Richmond 3.70 gears, and Wilwood rear disc brake kit, all new in box. Just need axles and it's complete. Picked it up (back when I had a job) from a guy parting out his 67 project. I can't use it in my 66, it's too wide. Danny Miller stuff isn't cheap though. PM if you're interested.

Check your PM.
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Old 07-14-2010, 07:31 AM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 67mike View Post
Check your PM.
replied.
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Old 07-26-2010, 03:46 AM   #13
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I think you are underestimating the 8.8. 28 spline axles are the same diameter for both as are 31 spline. I would put a stock 8.8 against a stock non "N" case 9" any day of the week. I am pretty sure mine makes over 500hp/tq. It has held up to it for 3 years going back to my N2O days. Have you ever seen the damage when the pinion comes out the front of a 9"? It usually cost you a driveshaft and at least a tail housing on the trans if not more.
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Old 07-26-2010, 10:03 AM   #14
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I think you are underestimating the 8.8. 28 spline axles are the same diameter for both as are 31 spline. I would put a stock 8.8 against a stock non "N" case 9" any day of the week. I am pretty sure mine makes over 500hp/tq. It has held up to it for 3 years going back to my N2O days. Have you ever seen the damage when the pinion comes out the front of a 9"? It usually cost you a driveshaft and at least a tail housing on the trans if not more.
I can get a complete 8.8" rear for $350.00.

So, you have run over 500 ft/lbs thru one? Did you use slicks? Street only ???

I know the 8.8 is much more efficient.
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Old 07-26-2010, 11:57 AM   #15
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I have never dynoed mine, but speed calculators put it around 480 rwhp. It has a stock 95 GT 8.8 with leaf spring conversion. It has had slicks and drag radials on it at the track. With you having a 4 speed you will need good axles, an after market case and big bearing pinion support with a 9". Welded tubes, axles, 9" ends or c-clip eliminators and a girdle for an 8.8. When I buy axles I will convert my 8.8 to 9" ends.
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Old 07-26-2010, 12:23 PM   #16
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Quote:
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I have never dynoed mine, but speed calculators put it around 480 rwhp. It has a stock 95 GT 8.8 with leaf spring conversion. It has had slicks and drag radials on it at the track. With you having a 4 speed you will need good axles, an after market case and big bearing pinion support with a 9". Welded tubes, axles, 9" ends or c-clip eliminators and a girdle for an 8.8. When I buy axles I will convert my 8.8 to 9" ends.
Thanks.
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Old 08-13-2010, 11:50 AM   #17
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I have been 10.18 @ 134 mph in my old 8", save money fix the 8" then start to build your replacement 9" or 8.8. You will then have the money from your 8" when you sell it to help offset the swap cost.
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Old 08-14-2010, 08:18 PM   #18
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Had a 8.8 behind a Procharged347 making 970 at the flywheel and never hurt it.
It had a spool, 33 spline axles, c clip eliminators. 373 gear

You won't go wrong with it. I'm thinking of doing a 8.8 for my 66 that i am getting ready to mini tub
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Old 08-21-2010, 02:36 PM   #19
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I used a 8.8 for my 66

got the rear end from a explorer with an extra right side axle for around $150 then got new disc brakes from advance auto.

So now I have a limited slip, disc brakes, and 31 spline axles for under $220

simply put i'm very happy with it
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Old 08-28-2010, 07:34 PM   #20
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I'll take an 8.8 over a 9"


I've got an 8.8 out of a 97 explorer. Cost me $175 complete with 5 lug disc brakes. It's also got factory 373 gears, trak lok AND 31 spline axles. Find me a 9" rear for under $200 with all that crap that's in good enough shape to run without a complete rebuild.

the length is perfect for 65/66 mustangs running bullitt wheels (1" wider per side) or the exact same length as 67-70 mustangs.

The pumpkin is slightly offset, but it won't effect anything negatively except some rubbing on the tunnel with the ds on lowered cars on big bumps (clearance the tunnel)

I'll take a $200 8.8 OVER a $2000 9" anyday....

i've already cut my spring perches off. My new summit spring perches...3" by 2.5" wide is what you want just came in for $17 shipped...I'll have my friend weld them on for beer and that's that.
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Old 08-31-2010, 12:09 AM   #21
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Not meaning to hijack your thread 67mike, although it might help you if you decide to go with a 8.8 (which I think is the best option).

Almighty-One/ v8only, which pinion yolks do you use? I'm planning a T5/8.8 swap this winter and would like to use the original driveshaft in my 68.
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Old 08-31-2010, 12:59 AM   #22
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I actually was under my 66 tonight fitting the 8.8 up under there. I bought the summit racing spring perches and they're horrible...they're split where they bent them over. I'm gonna return them....I'm gonna get the afco units.

as for the ds...I haven't gotten that far, but research tells me the 8.8 is perhaps .75-1" longer so I'm going to use my old c4 driveshaft. I already shortened it 3/4 of an inch for the t5 conversion, and there is plenty of yoke to slide up still....the only thing that will need to be changed is the end at the rear...for that I've got an old fox driveshaft with the proper flange to bolt to the 8.8...I'll just need a conversion u joint that mates the fox pinion ds flange to the old style 66 driveshaft. I don't have the part # yet, but they're fairly easy to find from what I've read. I've also heard that you can buy a conversion pinion flange for the 8.8 to convert the 8.8 to the old style u joints with the horse shoe style clamps, but that's not the route I'm going to go.
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Old 08-31-2010, 01:18 AM   #23
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This has been a huge help, thank you sir!!
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