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Old 09-07-2010, 07:06 PM   #1
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dry sanding vs wet sanding?

I'm getting ready to prime a fender that has clearcoat over paint. (95 mustang fender fwiw.)

I intend to follow directions to the letter. The first step is to sand with 320 grit. Is there any difference between wet sanding and dry sanding? My 320 paper is dry, so is it ok to use?
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Old 09-07-2010, 07:10 PM   #2
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Paper that is OK to use w/ water is typically labeled "wet/dry". If you use a dry paper with water, it will fall apart due to a different construction of the backing and adhesive material.
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Old 09-08-2010, 12:19 AM   #3
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Thanks, but is there any difference to the finished product if I dry sand using 320 dry paper versus wet sanding with 320 wet sandpaper?

Will the sanded product be any different?
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Old 09-08-2010, 02:40 AM   #4
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wet sanding tends to be easier as the paper doesnt clog as quick.
Also using warm soapy water helps this too!
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Old 09-08-2010, 01:35 PM   #5
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Wetsanding keeps the paper from building up and causing deeper scratches. I am not sure if you can tell a difference in a wetsanded 320 or a dry sanded 320, but i always wetsand when i am looking for a really smooth finish.
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Old 09-08-2010, 10:23 PM   #6
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So run us through the steps again... You're sanding with what grit, then priming, then dry sanding with 320? I lost track of where we were here...
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Old 09-09-2010, 01:15 AM   #7
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Quote:
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So run us through the steps again... You're sanding with what grit, then priming, then dry sanding with 320? I lost track of where we were here...
I'm starting. I hacked into clearcoat with 220 dry on a junkyard fender.

I don't really know what I'm doing (if you can't tell). I'm scuffing it on one end for about a foot, then for the next foot sanding more, even more for the next foot, finally I want to get down to paint.

Then I'll prime it and see if the different sanding efforts made any difference.

I'm concentrating on edges and transitions. I didn't have to sand very hard on one edge before reaching metal.

I'm doing this all by hand btw.
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Old 09-09-2010, 01:38 AM   #8
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Quote:
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I'm starting. I hacked into clearcoat with 220 dry on a junkyard fender.

I don't really know what I'm doing (if you can't tell). I'm scuffing it on one end for about a foot, then for the next foot sanding more, even more for the next foot, finally I want to get down to paint.

Then I'll prime it and see if the different sanding efforts made any difference.

I'm concentrating on edges and transitions. I didn't have to sand very hard on one edge before reaching metal.

I'm doing this all by hand btw.

sanding on edges ALWAYS goes to metal quicker as the edge is where the sanding is concentrated.

Most times there is no need to sand through the clear. Just scuff it and paint on top...unless there is a reason for this.
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Old 09-09-2010, 01:05 PM   #9
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Thanks, eboost.

I'll try to post pics this weekend.
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Old 09-10-2010, 09:28 AM   #10
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Just a little FYI... Autobody101.com is a great do it yourself paint forum.. I just got done repainting my entire car and it was the first one i have ever attempted. I learned ALOT from that site. There is good info on this site as well, but autobody101 is full of people that do this everyday.

I would also agree that there is no reason to sand through the clearcoat into the paint. If your going to prime everything anyway, then just scuff up whatever surface you are painting on. Make dang sure that the surface to recieve paint is cleaned with wax and grease remover and wiped with a tack rag. This is insurance against trash in the paint and to minimize any chance of fish eyes or paint not adhearing to the work surface. What kind of primer are you using? Epoxy, 2k urethane? Also make sure to read all the tech sheets and make sure all the products you are using are compatible with each other. With a high build primer there is no need to sand with a fine grit paper, 220 should more than enough, i used 180 or 220 before primer. Guide coat it. Block it flat with 220. Re-prime, guide coat, block it flat 320. Then it should be ready to get sealed and sprayed.
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Old 03-07-2012, 11:50 AM   #11
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Still no pics.

I ended up going through three itterations of paint, remove, paint, remove, paint.

The third time the paint went on well, only a couple runs in the clearcoat, and I learned about buffing with various 3m products and a buffer.

Sin that I'm paying for: When I was clearcoating I was running out of product on the 2nd coat and the gun sputtered. I thought "no problem, it will buff out". It hasn't.

The car looks great from 5 ft though. Well, maybe 8 ft. At least it no longer has a white bumper, blue hood & fender, and black everything else.

I even put a cobra emblem on the fender.
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Old 03-07-2012, 12:44 PM   #12
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Quote:
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Still no pics.

I ended up going through three itterations of paint, remove, paint, remove, paint.

The third time the paint went on well, only a couple runs in the clearcoat, and I learned about buffing with various 3m products and a buffer.

Sin that I'm paying for: When I was clearcoating I was running out of product on the 2nd coat and the gun sputtered. I thought "no problem, it will buff out". It hasn't.

The car looks great from 5 ft though. Well, maybe 8 ft. At least it no longer has a white bumper, blue hood & fender, and black everything else.

I even put a cobra emblem on the fender.
Did you try and wetsand the splatter before you buffed it? I'd hit it with 1000 grit, then work up to 2000 and buff.
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