Corral

puttputt · 03-19-2008, 02:27 PM

I was wondering on how to install door run channels on my 1990 GT. This is the weather stripping that the window rolls up into and usually cracks in the upper corners. Anyone ever done this before. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks in advance.

cbibb · 03-20-2008, 12:49 AM

They are a pain especially if you have decent size arms/hands. You have to roll the window down (obviously) and for me it was easier to start with the back part and work my way around. Just be patient. I also put a light coat of lithium grease on the backside (where it goes into the channel) of the rubber to help it slide in a little easier.

CSG · 03-20-2008, 11:43 AM

I loosened the bracket at the front of the window. Went in pretty easily.

puttputt · 03-20-2008, 01:28 PM

What bracket did you loosen?

CSG · 03-20-2008, 01:39 PM

The long bracket that the run channel fits into in the front. My car is not pwr windows so it may be diffrent.

riverviewnative · 03-24-2008, 08:17 PM

Spray the inside of the channel with wd 40 makes a world of difference.

avbcon12 · 03-24-2008, 09:01 PM

they are screwed in at the ends of the channels inside the door right?? meaning, take the door panel off?

avbcon12 · 03-27-2008, 08:38 AM

???

machstang23 · 03-27-2008, 09:21 AM

ok, first remove the door panel it make things easier to see and you are going to need to loosen a bolt at the front of the door that holds the channel in place. well I started at the back (the strip goes pretty far down inside the door and there is a channel for it to go into about 3/4 of the way down the door) and I made sure I had the back upper corner of the stripping lined up with the back upper corner of the window frame. then I just pushed the weatherstripping into the rail, then when you get to the front you will notice on the inner door (almost right above the speaker hole, and if you remove the speaker it will make access to this channel really easy) there is a bolt that holds the front part of the run channel. remove that bolt, and you should be able to move the run chanel enough to fit the W/S around the window and into the channel. push channel back into place,retighten bolt and put the door panel back on. Now this is the crib notes version, it is tough to get the stripping into the cahnnel, but just be patient it will go. taking my time and making sure everything was right, it probably took me an hour and a half to do both sides from start to finish.

avbcon12 · 03-27-2008, 10:51 AM

excellent, thanks

jtsfastgreen92gt · 03-27-2008, 03:07 PM

i just put new run channels in thinking that they was the reason that my windows were leaking.

do you think that maybe the door frame is bent because they still leak

avbcon12 · 03-27-2008, 03:18 PM

are you sure thats where the leak is from? most likely the door to chassis seal.

machstang23 · 03-28-2008, 10:34 AM

^^^ what he said, the window rolls up into the run channel and if the window rolls all the way up, there is a good chance that it is not the run channel, but the door to chassis seal. to figure out exactly where the leak is coming from sit inside the car on the side it is leaking, and then have someone spary the door/ window area with water and look for the leak. it should be rather obvious what seal is leaking once you actually see the water coming through. but there are only a few seals that would cause water to leak in, run channel is one, door to chassis is another, and thats about it. so if your door to chassi seals are good, then you may have a warped door, or your door hinges are sagging really bad and causing a gap somewhere, or the door isn't aligned porperly... I don't know for sure, these are jsut some things I would look into, but figure out where the leak is coming from first

jtsfastgreen92gt · 03-28-2008, 01:32 PM

i put the door seals on it a year or so ago

riverviewnative · 04-01-2008, 02:23 PM

The top of the window frame is very easy to bend by hand. Sometimes then need a little pulling in to make them seal from the door to the body.

SVT32VDOHC · 04-04-2008, 01:48 PM

I am going to replace mine this weekend. I bought new ones from www.50resto.com

I am only replacing them because the upper rear corners are rotted. They look bad considering I am restoring the car. For 50 bucks you can't beat them.

I will let you know about my troubles and success.

Oh....why do the fox body windows rock back and forth????? Is there anything to do to stop that?

79mustang351w · 04-04-2008, 06:24 PM

They shouldnt....your bushings toast?

SVT32VDOHC · 04-08-2008, 10:16 AM

Well my bushings looked good. They are the ones that ride around the window track. After the seals, the window rocks less, but still rocks a little.

Anyways...I got the seals in. It was a little difficult at first, but then it got really easy after I started. I lubed them up with some spray and they fit really good. I then lubed up my window regulator and gears. My window goes up and down much faster and smoother now. I also left my windows up all weekend so it would keep the seals in place. They come out of the box a little twisted, thats why it was difficult to start them.

All in all, I am happy. They look great, and the window goes up and down perfect.

03-19-2008, 02:27 PM	#1
puttputt Registered User Trader Feedback: (5) Join Date: May 2007 Location: Albemarle,N.C. Posts: 327	How to install door run channels I was wondering on how to install door run channels on my 1990 GT. This is the weather stripping that the window rolls up into and usually cracks in the upper corners. Anyone ever done this before. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks in advance.

03-24-2008, 09:01 PM	#7
avbcon12 Registered User Trader Feedback: (26) Join Date: Jan 2002 Location: West Bloomfield, MI/ Philadelphia PA Posts: 6,142	they are screwed in at the ends of the channels inside the door right?? meaning, take the door panel off? __________________ -Adam 90 GT black, V2 SI-Trim, Blow-Thru A/A Intercooler stage 3 "Y" heads/ Bennett Racing intake, TFS#1, long tubes, 3"Pro-Dumps/H-pipe, TKO500, 3.55's, Home made TA and PHB, cobra brakes, 22 gallon Fuel Safe Cell, PMS tuned etc.. built for twisties

03-27-2008, 08:38 AM	#8
avbcon12 Registered User Trader Feedback: (26) Join Date: Jan 2002 Location: West Bloomfield, MI/ Philadelphia PA Posts: 6,142	??? __________________ -Adam 90 GT black, V2 SI-Trim, Blow-Thru A/A Intercooler stage 3 "Y" heads/ Bennett Racing intake, TFS#1, long tubes, 3"Pro-Dumps/H-pipe, TKO500, 3.55's, Home made TA and PHB, cobra brakes, 22 gallon Fuel Safe Cell, PMS tuned etc.. built for twisties

03-27-2008, 09:21 AM	#9
machstang23 Registered User Trader Feedback: (18) Join Date: Oct 2005 Location: Titusville, FL Posts: 324	ok, first remove the door panel it make things easier to see and you are going to need to loosen a bolt at the front of the door that holds the channel in place. well I started at the back (the strip goes pretty far down inside the door and there is a channel for it to go into about 3/4 of the way down the door) and I made sure I had the back upper corner of the stripping lined up with the back upper corner of the window frame. then I just pushed the weatherstripping into the rail, then when you get to the front you will notice on the inner door (almost right above the speaker hole, and if you remove the speaker it will make access to this channel really easy) there is a bolt that holds the front part of the run channel. remove that bolt, and you should be able to move the run chanel enough to fit the W/S around the window and into the channel. push channel back into place,retighten bolt and put the door panel back on. Now this is the crib notes version, it is tough to get the stripping into the cahnnel, but just be patient it will go. taking my time and making sure everything was right, it probably took me an hour and a half to do both sides from start to finish. __________________ 88 lx hatch: 306- AFR 185's, F-cam, 1.7rr, RPM 2 Intake, BBK 65mm TB and spacer, LT headers, x-pipe, magnaflow cat-back, tremec 3550, 3:73's Last edited by machstang23; 03-27-2008 at 09:24 AM.

03-27-2008, 10:51 AM	#10
avbcon12 Registered User Trader Feedback: (26) Join Date: Jan 2002 Location: West Bloomfield, MI/ Philadelphia PA Posts: 6,142	excellent, thanks __________________ -Adam 90 GT black, V2 SI-Trim, Blow-Thru A/A Intercooler stage 3 "Y" heads/ Bennett Racing intake, TFS#1, long tubes, 3"Pro-Dumps/H-pipe, TKO500, 3.55's, Home made TA and PHB, cobra brakes, 22 gallon Fuel Safe Cell, PMS tuned etc.. built for twisties

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03-20-2008, 12:49 AM	#2
cbibb Registered User Trader Feedback: (32) Join Date: Jan 2003 Location: florida Posts: 1,384	They are a pain especially if you have decent size arms/hands. You have to roll the window down (obviously) and for me it was easier to start with the back part and work my way around. Just be patient. I also put a light coat of lithium grease on the backside (where it goes into the channel) of the rubber to help it slide in a little easier.

03-20-2008, 11:43 AM	#3
CSG Registered User Trader Feedback: (14) Join Date: Apr 2002 Location: Sulphur, La. Posts: 1,607	I loosened the bracket at the front of the window. Went in pretty easily.

03-20-2008, 01:28 PM	#4
puttputt Registered User Trader Feedback: (5) Join Date: May 2007 Location: Albemarle,N.C. Posts: 327	What bracket did you loosen?

03-20-2008, 01:39 PM	#5
CSG Registered User Trader Feedback: (14) Join Date: Apr 2002 Location: Sulphur, La. Posts: 1,607	The long bracket that the run channel fits into in the front. My car is not pwr windows so it may be diffrent.

03-24-2008, 08:17 PM	#6
riverviewnative Registered User Trader Feedback: (31) Join Date: Dec 2005 Location: Riverview Florida Posts: 2,805	Spray the inside of the channel with wd 40 makes a world of difference.

03-27-2008, 03:07 PM	#11
jtsfastgreen92gt Registered User Trader Feedback: (18) Join Date: Nov 2006 Location: bethany, mo Posts: 1,262	i just put new run channels in thinking that they was the reason that my windows were leaking. do you think that maybe the door frame is bent because they still leak __________________ 87gt-mild stuff-sold,92gt-D/D 85 NOTCH-victor JR'S h/i,sleeper R.I.P.PAINTER TOM MORRIS '51-'09 R.I.P.MATT KOONTZ

03-27-2008, 03:18 PM	#12
avbcon12 Registered User Trader Feedback: (26) Join Date: Jan 2002 Location: West Bloomfield, MI/ Philadelphia PA Posts: 6,142	are you sure thats where the leak is from? most likely the door to chassis seal. __________________ -Adam 90 GT black, V2 SI-Trim, Blow-Thru A/A Intercooler stage 3 "Y" heads/ Bennett Racing intake, TFS#1, long tubes, 3"Pro-Dumps/H-pipe, TKO500, 3.55's, Home made TA and PHB, cobra brakes, 22 gallon Fuel Safe Cell, PMS tuned etc.. built for twisties

03-28-2008, 10:34 AM	#13
machstang23 Registered User Trader Feedback: (18) Join Date: Oct 2005 Location: Titusville, FL Posts: 324	^^^ what he said, the window rolls up into the run channel and if the window rolls all the way up, there is a good chance that it is not the run channel, but the door to chassis seal. to figure out exactly where the leak is coming from sit inside the car on the side it is leaking, and then have someone spary the door/ window area with water and look for the leak. it should be rather obvious what seal is leaking once you actually see the water coming through. but there are only a few seals that would cause water to leak in, run channel is one, door to chassis is another, and thats about it. so if your door to chassi seals are good, then you may have a warped door, or your door hinges are sagging really bad and causing a gap somewhere, or the door isn't aligned porperly... I don't know for sure, these are jsut some things I would look into, but figure out where the leak is coming from first __________________ 88 lx hatch: 306- AFR 185's, F-cam, 1.7rr, RPM 2 Intake, BBK 65mm TB and spacer, LT headers, x-pipe, magnaflow cat-back, tremec 3550, 3:73's

03-28-2008, 01:32 PM	#14
jtsfastgreen92gt Registered User Trader Feedback: (18) Join Date: Nov 2006 Location: bethany, mo Posts: 1,262	i put the door seals on it a year or so ago __________________ 87gt-mild stuff-sold,92gt-D/D 85 NOTCH-victor JR'S h/i,sleeper R.I.P.PAINTER TOM MORRIS '51-'09 R.I.P.MATT KOONTZ

04-04-2008, 06:24 PM	#17
79mustang351w Registered User Trader Feedback: (3) Join Date: Aug 2006 Location: Bucyrus, OH Posts: 2,217	They shouldnt....your bushings toast? __________________ "Those who live life by the sword...get SHOT by those who don't!!"

04-01-2008, 02:23 PM	#15
riverviewnative Registered User Trader Feedback: (31) Join Date: Dec 2005 Location: Riverview Florida Posts: 2,805	The top of the window frame is very easy to bend by hand. Sometimes then need a little pulling in to make them seal from the door to the body.

04-04-2008, 01:48 PM	#16
SVT32VDOHC Registered User Trader Feedback: (0) Join Date: Dec 2007 Location: Michigan Posts: 356	I am going to replace mine this weekend. I bought new ones from www.50resto.com I am only replacing them because the upper rear corners are rotted. They look bad considering I am restoring the car. For 50 bucks you can't beat them. I will let you know about my troubles and success. Oh....why do the fox body windows rock back and forth????? Is there anything to do to stop that? __________________ 91 Mustang GT 4.6L 32V Cobra motor, T-45 trans, Bassani X-pipe, Flowmaster cat-back, 3.73's, Sub-frames, LCA's, SN95 dash, column, console swap. ABS, 5-lug, 4 wheel disc brakes, Cobra grill, spoiler, bumper. 04 Cobra--Whipple 2.3L,17psi, 595RWHP

04-08-2008, 10:16 AM	#18
SVT32VDOHC Registered User Trader Feedback: (0) Join Date: Dec 2007 Location: Michigan Posts: 356	Well my bushings looked good. They are the ones that ride around the window track. After the seals, the window rocks less, but still rocks a little. Anyways...I got the seals in. It was a little difficult at first, but then it got really easy after I started. I lubed them up with some spray and they fit really good. I then lubed up my window regulator and gears. My window goes up and down much faster and smoother now. I also left my windows up all weekend so it would keep the seals in place. They come out of the box a little twisted, thats why it was difficult to start them. All in all, I am happy. They look great, and the window goes up and down perfect. __________________ 91 Mustang GT 4.6L 32V Cobra motor, T-45 trans, Bassani X-pipe, Flowmaster cat-back, 3.73's, Sub-frames, LCA's, SN95 dash, column, console swap. ABS, 5-lug, 4 wheel disc brakes, Cobra grill, spoiler, bumper. 04 Cobra--Whipple 2.3L,17psi, 595RWHP

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