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Old 06-14-2006, 01:17 PM   #1
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1994 Mustang GT ignition lock broken , how to fix ?

The ignition lock itself works fine , the thing starts and every position of the lock works . The problem is the outer "ears" that you insert the key through . It spins independent of the ignition key and makes the interior dinger keep running unless you thumb it to the correct "off" spot .
Do I have to give up my factory keys to change the thing out , or does the lock cylinder come out of there ?
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Old 06-14-2006, 01:57 PM   #2
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Lemondrop
The ignition lock itself works fine , the thing starts and every position of the lock works . The problem is the outer "ears" that you insert the key through . It spins independent of the ignition key and makes the interior dinger keep running unless you thumb it to the correct "off" spot .
Do I have to give up my factory keys to change the thing out , or does the lock cylinder come out of there ?
This is a common problem with that type or design of ignition cylinder. The same thing has happened on my 1994 Bronco and my 1994 Cobra (and I have heard of it happening on many other Ford products that used that same cylinder design).

You have to go to your local Ford dealer and order a new ignition cylinder for the Mustang. I know because I've tried to get the same part from the local auto parts stores, however, they only seem to have chrome units OR they don't have them at all. The one in my 94 Cobra is BLACK, so I wanted the same part and went to Ford to buy it. The cylinder did come with keys, but, I wanted to retain my original key.

So for the Cobra:

New black Ford ignition cylinder w/ keys = $60+
Local Locksmith to match new lock cylinder to original key= $20

Now, for my Bronco, the parts store HAD the black ignition cylinder w/ keys. So, with the Bronco, I just purchased the parts store ignition cylinder and replaced it and retained the NEW keys. I did not care too much if I have multiple keys for the Bronco, as it's my "beater/winter" vehicle.

The part is easy to replace on both vehicles, but takes time in doing so because you have to dismantle the steering column plastics in order to remove the ignition cylinder.

Best of luck!
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Old 06-14-2006, 03:01 PM   #3
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Get a new one from your local dealer. I got mine for about $45 and they cut the new keys to open the doors and trunk for free. The new keys no longer open the glove box. I could take the glove box lock to a smith and have it changed for cheap, if I ever get around to it.
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Old 06-14-2006, 07:17 PM   #4
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My 95 ignition lock cylinder did the same thing. I called around and priced various stores: A local locksmith specializing in cars wanted $120 to replace the cylinder and cut the new keys to match my door and trunk locks, my local Ford dealer wanted $65 for just a new lock cylinder, the local Advanced Auto had a chrome lock cylinder for $16. I now have a chrome lock cylinder and two keys on my key ring. It somewhat matches my billet accessories.
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Old 06-14-2006, 11:27 PM   #5
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I tried scuffing and painting my chrome replacment, but after about 3 months it's almost completely worn off! Next I'm going to try some of that Tool Handle dip stuff from Home Depot. It's the stuff you can dip the handle of your pliers in to form new grips. Worth a try!
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Old 06-15-2006, 03:15 AM   #6
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There are 3 pins inside the ears that clock it. I made new pins for my old lock.
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Old 06-15-2006, 04:24 AM   #7
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Got the same problem and I'm on my 2nd lock cylinder. I think you could just take the fuse out if your just annoyed by the door chime.
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Old 06-15-2006, 09:51 AM   #8
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You could pull the fuse, but you'd probably lose a few other devices when you do that.
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Old 06-15-2006, 11:14 AM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HISSIN50
There are 3 pins inside the ears that clock it. I made new pins for my old lock.

How did you go about doing this? If it works, the solution can be placed in the technical reference as a "free" fix.
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Old 06-15-2006, 11:52 AM   #10
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Heh, sometimes I can start mine without the key, but don't tell anyone!
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Old 06-15-2006, 03:21 PM   #11
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As requested...........

If one wants to repair the old lock, I recommend having a new lock cylinder on hand (or accessible) in case this doesnt go too well. Actually, if it went horribly, you might not be able to get the ears back on the lock, so it would mostly be an aesthetics issue.

It's been awhile but this is what I recall:

The ears are there to keep people from bending their key. The circumference of the ears has a ridge and meshes with a channel in the lock itself. The metal in the ears is worse than old soup cans (soft) so pry carefully to separate the ears from the lock. Now you can see the 3 bosses where pins should go. Make your pins and put it all back together. Though I havent tried it, I am thinking that a little epoxy or JB weld might actually work alright to assist (or in lieu of) the pins.

As an aside, it was common for 94-95 lock cylinders to allow the key to be removed while the key was in an 'on-position'. Some have reported that a new lock cylinder had the ability to capture the key, which some folks like (it might be a reason to get a new lock cylinder).

And if the lock is removed, you can see the 'dinger' wire connection. It seems to me that the dinger contact grounds the dinger. One could remove this wire and connection at this time and not have function anymore (some find it annoying). I almost did but then in a moment of weakness chose not to.

Good luck.
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Old 06-16-2006, 02:20 PM   #12
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I'll try the jerry rigging this weekend . Im not driving the car yet so if I screw up the lock no biggie .
Im fixing all kinds of previous owner stuff , there is alot of odds and ends that are dicked up .
Now I have to figure how the rear defroster wire routes through the drivers side of the car . It's up there but not long enough by just flopping it over the back deck so something is wrong . I have a jumper that is ford made that connects to the rear window , from the main harness but it's not long enough all togehter .
I have to find the factoy route for the wire . I dunno why it was ever removed but the inside of the car was repainted at some time to either change it from yellow or repair something or ??????????????

Im waiting on the information from Ford on the car but in the time being Im fixing little crap that someone before me screwed up .
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