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Old 05-25-2005, 12:45 AM   #1
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Can I change the oil pan without pulling the engine?

I have a 94 GT with a 351W, but it should be the same as the 302. My oil pan is messed up and leaking. Can I get it off without pulling the engine. If so, what things do I have to take loose? So I have to unbolt the transmission? How do I get it passed the oil pump and tube and also the engine craddle.
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Old 05-25-2005, 12:51 AM   #2
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mine came off with the tranny off ..and i have a q1a k-member but i never tryed with the tranny in place
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Old 05-25-2005, 12:54 AM   #3
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you can use one of those engine hangers that sits on the inner fenders and keeps the engine up when you undo the suspension and drop the K member, but that seems like a lot of work.

You might be able to unbolt the motor mounts and raise the motor up with an engine hoist enough to gain the 5" or 6" or so to be able to remove the pan, but I've never done it that way, I've pulled the complete motor out (for other reasons other than changing the pan/gasket)
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Old 05-25-2005, 01:47 AM   #4
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I'd still like to hear from someone who has tried it. I would like to know for sure if the engine will jack up enough to get it out. I have to change to a new oil pan.

Last edited by GarbMan; 05-25-2005 at 01:53 AM.
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Old 05-25-2005, 02:36 AM   #5
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you can use one of those engine hangers that sits on the inner fenders and keeps the engine up when you undo the suspension and drop the K member

Helped a buddy do his this way worked out great . and rerally is not that much work
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Old 05-25-2005, 05:53 PM   #6
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So dropping the K member is the best way to go? OK then. Where can I get one of those engine hangers that will work with a 94 mustang? I've never dropped a K member before. How much time will it normally take?
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Old 05-25-2005, 06:33 PM   #7
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I had my mechanic change my oil pan gasket, too lazy. They raised the engine up some by unbolting the motor mounts & raised the engine enough to get the pan out. They used the 1 piece rubber gasket, around $40 for it.
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Old 05-25-2005, 06:42 PM   #8
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In reality, you could just use an engine hoist to hold the engine up, and still unbolt the K member. The tranny will still be bolted to the crossmember, so it will help to hold the engine still and centered.

As far as the work to remove the K member, it's held up by 8 bolts, you'll just have to disconnect the power steering lines, then seperate the intermediate shaft (goes from the column to the rack and pinion). Unbolt the motor mounts, then the 8 bolts holding the K in place.. all you have to do is lower it with a floor jack.. Probably easier to do with the wheels off the car. Might be some brake lines to disconnect too.

Should be it.. I helped my bro. convert his 97 V6 to a 95/301 setup and it required changing the K-Member.. of course, we didn't have the motor in it yet, but above should be all that's involved..
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Old 05-25-2005, 07:27 PM   #9
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Ok Great! I have an engine crane. 94 Cobra says it will come out by just raising the engine. This would be great. If anyone else has done this, I would like to have their input.
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Old 05-25-2005, 09:31 PM   #10
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PM GMKILLR as he just changed his oil pan gasket, oil pump, and oil pump DS without pulling the motor and with the stock K member. I know it was a MAJOR PITA for him but he was able to do it.
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Old 05-25-2005, 10:09 PM   #11
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I just had my oil pan out to replace the gasket. At the same time, I replaced the motor mounts, harmonic balancer, timing chain, water pump, all hoses, clamps, and thermostat. Getting the pan out is a real pain. I have a Ford shop manual and followed it to the letter. Here is what must come out: Radiator, complete air intake, starter, cat pipe, steering shaft.You must drop the crossmember and let the trans hang down, but support it. I did not remove the driveshaft, but this is a tip, index the front u-joint so it is straight verticle. If you do this, the engine will not shift to one side when you raise it. You must loosen the steering rack, slide it foreward out of the way. The engine must be raised about 8 inches. Drop the pan. You must then remove the oil pump pickup tube from the pump, remove the oilpump and let it drop into the pan. Now and ONLY now is there enough clearance to remove the pan.
You can"t believe how hard it is to put it back on!!! ( I did this with the car on jackstands.) I used a felpro 1 piece steel reinforced gasket. This is a real sturdy piece. About $32.00 from Summit. Felpro says it must go on DRY. You can't even use gasket adhesive to hold it in place.
You must support the pan, allign the oilpump shaft, line up the pump and bolts,without moving its gasket, and start its bolts, all at the same time. you must install the pickup tube and torque all bolts, without moving the oilpan gasket. I fudged a little and used silicone gasket sealer where the flat stops and rounds the crankshaft. the gasket has points that stick up. (Make very sure you remove all old gasket material from the indentations in the engine block in this area, or you will have a leak for sure.) It took me almost an hour, just to get everyting in place and 4 pan bolts started.
Its been about a month now and NO LEAKS.
Good Luck
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Old 05-26-2005, 02:20 AM   #12
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Holy cow upchuck! That is not what I wanted to hear. I have a bad neck condition. I would think droping the K-Member would be easier. Boy! I wish I could my old one to stop leaking. It leaks around the small front fitting. The pan had a bad weld job and then I used JB weld on it. It looked really good, but I've tried about everything I know to get it to stop leaking. Oh well! I guess I have to replace it.

I see F-150 oil pan for the 351w on ebay for $36. It looks like the pan I'm using on my 351W in the 94 GT, but it says for an F-150 only. Does anyone know if this pan will work for me with my 351W in the 94 GT.

Thanks everyone and I would still like to hear from anyone on this. My engine is a carbed 351W if this makes any difference.
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