1995 Mustang GT stalls - Ford Mustang Forums : Corral.net Mustang Forum
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post #1 of 41 Old 02-13-2017, 01:08 AM Thread Starter
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1995 Mustang GT stalls

So I recently purchased a 95 GT. It has surging idle and stalling problems. I've since replaced the tps, iac, the maf and dropped in a new distributor. I have also cleaned the and verified the function of the egr. I've verified that there are no vacuum leaks and that full pressure is good as well. Car has new plugs and new coil too. I have set the base timing to 10 degrees with the spout connector removed. Car idles well but I can't give it any throttle or it will stumble and stall. I'm completely stumped.

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post #2 of 41 Old 02-13-2017, 09:08 AM
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Mine was doing that when I bought it and I replaced about everything you said you did and it ended up being a crack in my throttle body so it had a huge vacuum leak. Might look your throttle body over

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post #3 of 41 Old 02-13-2017, 09:25 PM
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check for codes

may give you direction

89 GT gr-40, KB2200(10psi), tweecer R/T,LC-1, 22gal cell, w/tailpipes.
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post #4 of 41 Old 02-13-2017, 10:58 PM
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Does it have any aftermarket mods or all stock?
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post #5 of 41 Old 02-13-2017, 11:05 PM Thread Starter
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I fingered it out. Replaced the msd coil and cap with an oe piece. Car runs well now. I'm still slightly skeptical of my timing job though. I'm sitting at about 10 degrees btdc at and idle of about 900 with the spout connector disconnected. It runs a smidgen on the rough side. I plug in the spout and it smooths out really well. The rpm picks up just a touch. My question is when I just check to see the timing after I plug in the spout it reads over 20 wtf is up with that?
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post #6 of 41 Old 02-13-2017, 11:06 PM Thread Starter
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Oh and car has no codes and zero mods
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post #7 of 41 Old 02-14-2017, 12:26 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Alyx Ivanoff View Post
Oh and car has no codes and zero mods
there is no such thing as no codes

a system pass is the very min

a coil and cap, is unlikely to be the cause of your issue.

with the spout out, ICM and YOU control the timing, sp out= spark OUTPUT

is the ecm, timing control

Unplug your IAC when engine is at temp and at idle, what happens?

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post #8 of 41 Old 02-14-2017, 01:49 PM
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Pull #1 plug, insert drinking straw. Turn crank until TDC on piston and check against timing mark on balancer. Notorious for slipping on these cars.

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post #9 of 41 Old 02-14-2017, 05:49 PM
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900 rpm is a high idle for a completely stock engine.
I would begin to look for vacuum leaks, they can cause all of your symptoms.

Unless someone effed with the throttle stop screw, then that in itself would cause all your symptoms

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post #10 of 41 Old 02-15-2017, 09:12 PM
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Mine had a similar issue, turned out the little rubber vacuum hose going to a canister in the passenger fender well had a leak from being dry rotted.


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post #11 of 41 Old 02-16-2017, 12:52 AM Thread Starter
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The car ideal high because that's just where I want it. It's minus 30-40 where I live. So far I've replaced a maf that was waaaaaay out of range as well as the harness for it do to corossion and high resistance. I've back proved bothe the tps and maf at idle and wot. Both are in range. I fixed the minute long cranking issue with a new pip and distributor. I re did a couple major grounds. I also timed it. I've searched high and low with starting fluid trying to find vacuum leaks and so far ive found none. I've fixed most of the issues so far and the car no longer stalls. It does still have one gremlin left. Very ramdomly I will be cruising along at light throttle and I will go to throttle her up and nothing happens no response at all. It doesn't stall or anything it just doesn't do anything. I have to hit the gas pedal several times and then she roars back to life. Pleeeease help.
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post #12 of 41 Old 02-16-2017, 12:54 AM Thread Starter
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Thank you everyone for posting btw. Sorry for the delayed responses. I've been running my ass off with work and trying to re love the stang
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post #13 of 41 Old 02-16-2017, 08:56 AM
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You set the idle at 900 rpm? With a tune correct?
If you just turned the throttle stop screw, then these are the results of that.

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post #14 of 41 Old 02-16-2017, 09:05 AM Thread Starter
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Base idle is set just below 700 on the throttle body and around 900 with the bleeder screw all with the iac disconnected. Im thinking this is an intermittent electrical fault and possibly the cause of a ####ty ground somewhere. To be honest I'm not so sure how a high idle could cause my current issue?
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post #15 of 41 Old 02-16-2017, 11:33 AM
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Well, that's what is causing your issues. Whether you understand how or not is irrelevant.

Think about this. The EEC is still trying to target the factory rpm set point. It is going to pull timing and reduce the duty cycle for the IAC to reach its target. (Which if I read correctly you have disconnected the IAC)

You also get into some issues of idle fueling, the EEC expects a certain amount of air at idle, and demands fuel accordingly, but you have screwed all that up by adjusting the throttle stop, bleed screw, and IAC

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post #16 of 41 Old 02-16-2017, 11:55 AM Thread Starter
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No sir the iac is not disconnected. I don't want any hack fixes on her. That's probably how she got this way. If you think the idle speed is causing the issue than yes I will address it and see if it helps. Honestly to me it seems like a ground fault or poor connection somewhere. Too bad these hours on the car didn't count towards my apprenticeship lol
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post #17 of 41 Old 02-16-2017, 04:16 PM
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sounds like You have more than one problem

You cannot adjust idle speed with the throttle stop

That will give you uncontrolled idle

the lack of power......maybe fuel.....check 02 signals, when snapping to WOT from an idle.

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post #18 of 41 Old 02-17-2017, 12:02 AM Thread Starter
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I didn't adjust it with the throttle stop. I did the back the screw out and set the gap with a feeler gauge. I then turned it in 1.5 turns. I then proceeded to set the idle via the unplugged iac. The adjustment falls within the range of .05 - 2 turns.

Anyways I am curious. Was this car supposed to have catylic converters?

No new to report tonight. I spent the evening doing wheel bearings instead of hunting down more gremlins.

Does anyone happen to know where the windshield washer fluid pump is located. Mine doesn't work and I found an old one in the trunk. ?
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post #19 of 41 Old 02-17-2017, 09:43 AM
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The idle is electronically controlled and non adjustable, except through a tune&chip.

Your idle isn't at the factory setting.

It doesn't matter how you did it, or that you used a feeler gauge, or counted the turns. You have changed the values of what the EEC uses in its calculations.

Switching from idle to part throttle is causing a stumble.

If this doesn't happen at any other time, I see no reason to suspect other things, like a PIP failure. Fuel pressure is good, correct? A steady 39 psi?

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post #20 of 41 Old 02-17-2017, 10:26 AM Thread Starter
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So I checked it the old fashion redneck way. I didn't have a gauge so I simply depressed the shrader valve the fuel will hit the hood. This problem only occurs in 4th and 5th gear under no load and only under 2000 rpm. If it's 2500 or above it drives just fine. So I think perhaps you are right.
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post #21 of 41 Old 02-17-2017, 01:42 PM
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that screw is the stop

what is this bleeder screw you talked about?

fwiw the idle speed is calculated by airflow, and that number is programmed in the ecm

looking at a tach with the resolution we have stock, is not going to work

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post #22 of 41 Old 02-17-2017, 02:06 PM Thread Starter
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The bleeder screw on the throttle body for the iac
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post #23 of 41 Old 02-17-2017, 02:36 PM
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You have the IAC plugged in and you're still at 900 rpm's.
That thing is maxed out and unable to do it's job , you may as well just unplug it

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post #24 of 41 Old 02-17-2017, 03:07 PM Thread Starter
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i just followed a very detailed procedure I found on corral. My bleeder screw fell within the specs I found. 0.5 - 2 turns out. I'm just a heavy duty tech trying to bring this old car back from death. So I'm open to any advice
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post #25 of 41 Old 02-17-2017, 03:58 PM
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Post up the link to the procedure you found.

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post #26 of 41 Old 02-17-2017, 04:17 PM Thread Starter
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http://www.mustangspecialties.net/mu...le-set-up.html

This is not the exact one but the same instructions almost word for word. I'm closer to the two turns out end of the spectrum. I backprobed the tps and wot and it's in range still just telling you to provide you with a little more background info
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post #27 of 41 Old 02-17-2017, 05:15 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Alyx Ivanoff View Post
How to Properly Set You Mustang's Idle, Ford Mustang Performance Parts - MustangSpecialties.net

This is not the exact one but the same instructions almost word for word. I'm closer to the two turns out end of the spectrum. I backprobed the tps and wot and it's in range still just telling you to provide you with a little more background info
That is for a person using a PMS engine management system. None of that applies to the factory EEC-IV.

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post #28 of 41 Old 02-17-2017, 05:20 PM Thread Starter
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well eff me. if you have the time and patience would you care to elaborate on the difference between the two please? How may I ask do you set the idle on to stock on an EEC-IV system
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post #29 of 41 Old 02-17-2017, 05:32 PM
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You can't, unless you use a chip on the EEC such as a dynotune, TwEECer RT, or Quarterhorse and use the associated software,(Calcon/Caledit, Binary Editor, Tuner Pro, etc.) to create a tune.

From what you have told us, your car being mostly stock, the factory idle setting is fine for you. Fear not, there's a way to get things back really close to factory spec.

You need to use the Base Idle reset procedure.

It's not for setting the idle. It's for resetting it back to factory after someone has messed with it.

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post #30 of 41 Old 02-17-2017, 07:54 PM Thread Starter
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This car is a hack job supreme. I kind of unknowingly bit off more than I could chew. I drove fours each way in a blizzard to trailer this thing home. The weather didn't exactly permit a test drive so I took the fellas word that it just needed a new maf. Now I have a car that at one point wouldn't even stay running and even if it did the front end was so beat that it wasn't safe to drive. I still have to figure out these after market headlights and why my day time running lights flicker.
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post #31 of 41 Old 02-17-2017, 07:56 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HYBRED View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by Alyx Ivanoff View Post
How to Properly Set You Mustang's Idle, Ford Mustang Performance Parts - MustangSpecialties.net

This is not the exact one but the same instructions almost word for word. I'm closer to the two turns out end of the spectrum. I backprobed the tps and wot and it's in range still just telling you to provide you with a little more background info
That is for a person using a PMS engine management system. None of that applies to the factory EEC-IV.
Quote:
Originally Posted by HYBRED View Post
You can't, unless you use a chip on the EEC such as a dynotune, TwEECer RT, or Quarterhorse and use the associated software,(Calcon/Caledit, Binary Editor, Tuner Pro, etc.) to create a tune.

From what you have told us, your car being mostly stock, the factory idle setting is fine for you. Fear not, there's a way to get things back really close to factory spec.

You need to use the Base Idle reset procedure.

It's not for setting the idle. It's for resetting it back to factory after someone has messed with it.
Thank you for all your help. It's been a nightmare trying to make this thing road worthy.

I don't suppose you know the base idle reset procedure ?
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post #32 of 41 Old 02-17-2017, 08:55 PM
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get the engine nice and hot

disconnect the IAC, and spout

close the throttle stop, to lowest rpm to where it just stalls, open the the stop maybe 1/8th turn, ensure the throttle blade does not stick in its bore

turn engine off if did not stall

test by opening to WOT and let it snap closed, then open slowly with your fingers, there should be NO binding

repeat the 1/8th if necessary,,,,,,,

unhook neg cable from battery, step on brake pedal a few times, reconnect cable restart, and give a few quick stabs of throttle, and let return to idle......

that might get you in the ball park.

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post #33 of 41 Old 02-17-2017, 09:54 PM Thread Starter
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Awesome! Thanks! What do I do about the iac bleed screw that is all messed up now?
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post #34 of 41 Old 02-18-2017, 11:27 AM
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is it sandwhiched to throttle body?

if so, remove it

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post #35 of 41 Old 02-21-2017, 12:14 AM Thread Starter
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so i performed the base idle reset and now the car idles at about 700 ish and sounds like a piece of ####. It surges and I have absolutely no idea why.. it also seems to have a little backfire when the rpms are coming back down after being throttled up. I'm so lost and so tired of this thing.
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