Does the Crowfoot need to be flush with Dampner? Balancer removal

[from6to8]

Looking at the manual it doesnt appear that the crowfoot is flush at all. Looking at a video online, ASE certified guy on a 9 min video, he has it flush. Just wondering because I ran into an issue where the bolts that came in the Kit from advance didnt work. Good thing I had some for which we replaced my horn few yrs ago. I had ended up then getting bolts cause I borrowed the tool kit from advance at that time too. The bolts I have fit but they are about an inch too long for it to be able to fit flush against the crowfoot and fitting the foot flush to the balancer. I found a few that were an inch shorter and they were much better but wasnt flush. It had maybe 1/4 - 1/2 inch of space because the bolts have about an inch of non threads from the head of the bolt.

Just wondering which way I need to go about doing this thing. If i have to i will just get bolts same size but just threaded all the way.

[Pfirmin]

As long as you have two of the same length that's all that matters.

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[from6to8]

Originally Posted by Pfirmin

As long as you have two of the same length that's all that matters.

Sent using nothing

trying to understand though a little bit of what you are saying in what I asked, the crowfoot isn't going to move because of the bolts attached to the balancer? Even if the bolts doesn't have the foot flush, the foot won't move because of the center bolt which being threaded is actually holding it in place? See what I was thinking was that even though the center bolt being threaded and has the foot's center, if the other bolts aren't holding it against the balancer, it would almost seem as if the foot would be able to move if you pressed it either left or right. Or if not really move, maybe give a little. I wasn't sure if that logic was correct, in fact rather that " give a little " would in fact mess with anything lol.

I actually thought about that logic but one thing I have learned in life is to be patient and ask questions if you aren't sure. I would much rather my car sit and wait till i take my time knowing what I am doing, than to rush and get it back running only to have to do things over.

A few more things: Would it be wise to put a thin bead of silicone on the TC before attaching it to the housing/gasket? I know the gasket goes onto the housing first and let get nice and firm then put on he TC. Saw this video where a guy used spray on rtv looking thing

[midnightrider]

Unnecessary to be flush. As soon as U tighten up the center bolt that w/stabalize the balancer remover.. SOOOOO, just remove it.....Don't over think it..Lol...

[from6to8]

Originally Posted by midnightrider

Unnecessary to be flush. As soon as U tighten up the center bolt that w/stabalize the balancer remover.. SOOOOO, just remove it.....Don't over think it..Lol...

gotcha. Is it necessary to put a thin coat of rtv on the tc cover b4 placing the cover on to the block/gasket?

[Pfirmin]

A light layer of silicone is good. Also put a little extra in the corner where the oil pan, timing cover, and block meet.

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[from6to8]

Originally Posted by Pfirmin

A light layer of silicone is good. Also put a little extra in the corner where the oil pan, timing cover, and block meet.

Sent using nothing

Ok i think i have everything down pretty much. NOw I am dreading the best, easiest way to go about putting on the tc gasket so I wouldnt have to worry about the gasket moving when the cover is put back on. I have seen some say they have put the gasket on the block and let set good then put cover on. I actually don't think i heard anyone say to put gasket on cover then put cover on block......................If best to put gasket on block first, about 20 mins minimum to let it tack up before putting cover on?

i definitely dont want to screw that part up

[from6to8]

and is it necessary to use thread sealer on the bolts?