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Old 08-21-2010, 08:42 PM   #1
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Distributor Stator/PIP Sensor R/R

After reading on this site about the issue with our stator/PIP sensor heat soaking and eventually dying on us I decided to replace the sensor first just to see how difficult it was and how long it would last.

I must say that it's really not an involved process, I've been a technician for over 10 years at the same dealership so maybe that is why, but I think even an intermediate mechanically inclined person can do it.

After removing the cap/rotar and such, you are left with a piece that is pressed onto the shaft of the distributor that can be a bit tricky to take off if not done correctly. Since the shaft has splines on it/the wheel as well I marked the located on each with a black sharpie marker. If a press is not available to you, what I did is use 2 small pry bars and keeping them 180* opposite from eachother, gently pried the piece upwards and off of the shaft, I applied very little pressure and voila off it came. From there it was a simple unbolting/removal/install process. The car runs exactly how it should again and I've been very happy with my decision to not replace the whole distributor QUITE yet, granted it would have been a better piece of mind, but I decided to go the $30 route first.

Thank you to everyone that has posted over the years about the diag. process and what to look for! You all made it very streamlined for me.
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Old 08-21-2010, 11:14 PM   #2
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BlackGt84 View Post
After reading on this site about the issue with our stator/PIP sensor heat soaking and eventually dying on us I decided to replace the sensor first just to see how difficult it was and how long it would last.

I must say that it's really not an involved process, I've been a technician for over 10 years at the same dealership so maybe that is why, but I think even an intermediate mechanically inclined person can do it.

After removing the cap/rotar and such, you are left with a piece that is pressed onto the shaft of the distributor that can be a bit tricky to take off if not done correctly. Since the shaft has splines on it/the wheel as well I marked the located on each with a black sharpie marker. If a press is not available to you, what I did is use 2 small pry bars and keeping them 180* opposite from eachother, gently pried the piece upwards and off of the shaft, I applied very little pressure and voila off it came. From there it was a simple unbolting/removal/install process. The car runs exactly how it should again and I've been very happy with my decision to not replace the whole distributor QUITE yet, granted it would have been a better piece of mind, but I decided to go the $30 route first.

Thank you to everyone that has posted over the years about the diag. process and what to look for! You all made it very streamlined for me.
Wouldnt it have been easier to remove the two roll pins that hold the gear and retainer in place, and just pulling the whole shaft out? They you wouldnt have to worry about damaging the reluctor wheel.
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Old 08-22-2010, 09:11 AM   #3
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Originally Posted by AdderMk2 View Post
Wouldnt it have been easier to remove the two roll pins that hold the gear and retainer in place, and just pulling the whole shaft out? They you wouldnt have to worry about damaging the reluctor wheel.
If a press is available, it would be. Which I do believe he doesn't have. So he did it a different way.

You must have missed that part.

Jason
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Old 08-22-2010, 01:11 PM   #4
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Originally Posted by TCKTME View Post
If a press is available, it would be. Which I do believe he doesn't have. So he did it a different way.

You must have missed that part.

Jason
Exactly.

I did not have a press or puller available, so doing it my way worked. Like I said I've been a tech for a long time so this wasn't exactly an involved process for me. The wheel is thick enough that it won't bend AS LONG as your not an animal with it, which I was not. I just very gently used 2 small pry bars and it popped right up, granted I probably lucked out and didn't require any pressure to be applied, but I was merely stating what worked for me and that the whole distributor didn't need to be replaced in my case.
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Old 08-22-2010, 02:15 PM   #5
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Exactly what part needs to be pressed on or off? The gear on my disty came off with a pair of pliers... I just wiggled it back and fourth and it slid right off.
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Old 08-22-2010, 03:12 PM   #6
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Originally Posted by AdderMk2 View Post
Exactly what part needs to be pressed on or off? The gear on my disty came off with a pair of pliers... I just wiggled it back and fourth and it slid right off.

When I was doing reading on this board about installing a new PIP sensor, folks were saying seperating the wheel from the shaft inside the dizzy require a press/puller some sort of magic. Having never done it before I did it like you "my own way" and had it work just fine, so I was unaware if I just happened to get lucky or the wheel should not require a puller of any sort, which is what I'm thinking.
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