i just clean the block real good,run a bead of blue rtv across with extra rtv where head and block meet.wait 20 minutes or so until the rtv gets slightly tacky and drop the intake on.
RTV all the way, the end seals eventually WILL leak, no matter if they are the cork or rubber ones. The silicone just peals off when you change manifolds and completely seals the ends.
Me too. The silicone rubber seals work GREAT! I tried the RTV instead of the silicone gaskets and the RTV didn't seal for me. I think the silicone gaskets are a much better way to go.
I use the rubber seals, yet throw away the cork ones. The rubber ones I have found have locating tabs that keep them from "blowing out". Never had any leaks. Prepped with a finger of oil (like any rubber seal) and they work great.
Rightstuff here. Been using it for a long time. Before that it was Ultra Black. Would never use any manufacturers end seals as they all eventually start leaking. Using RTV atleast gives you a semipermanent bond. Only times it wont work is when the beads arent thick enough, the intake and block are still oil (and not clean) or the person installing it slid the intake and smeared the bead.
I use it in the front and the rear of the lower intake in place of the gasket. When it's applied correctly and given the recommended time to cure it works great.
For me - first choice is the rubber seals - clean/smooth surfaces, lubricate the seals with a bit of light grease. Second choice - completely coat the cork version (lightly) with high temp rtv. Last choice - a bead of RTV. If you've had the heads/block/intake milled -- a bead of RTV may be your only option.
I've ALWAYS ditched the end seal gaskets and used a nice thick bead of RTV copper instead. Like others have said, let it tack up for 20 minutes then drop the lower intake straight on. Torque the bolts and let it sit over night before you fire it up. No worries.
Jim
I've used the rubber ones that are made into a sort of C shape to keep them sitting on the block ends with good results so far. Just a dab of RTV in the corners where it sits against the intake to head gasket and no problems. The cork ones I throw away and use RTV.
I used the rubber ones with some silicone in the corners.
They work great.Fel-Pro should include them with every set,not just the ones for stock heads.
I guess I'm a minority here. I used the cork ends because they stay in place better than worrying about the RTV sealing all the way around. I also use CAT high tack sealant that is like cement, they will never leak with that stuff.
Ok, ok - I BRAZE the manifold to the block. No leaks. No disassembly. Just throw the motor away and put a new one in when there's a problem....like most everything else these days.
I make four and besides the Right Stuff the only other sealant I use is Yamabond. BTW on the virgin 89 I just pulled down the rear gasket wasn't even making good contact on the block from the factory!!!
Almost forgot, some folks have been dimpling the blocks sealing rails with a center punch for years to hold both the gaskets from moving.
I've used both, rubber and cork but always with a bead of silicone. Never had a problem with either so I'm not partial to any of them. The trick is to get the silicone and gaskets situated properly. Good luck!
I was wondering the same thing.... how thick of a bead for RTV only?
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