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Old 12-28-2007, 12:07 AM   #1
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which intake gasket?

so i was just wondering what the concensus is for intake gaskets now? i've heard of the 1250 having problems. thats what i currently have on there, and im leaking on the drivers side front corner of the intake. it may be from a lack of rtv, my bead was not as big as it probably should have been. anyway, i know they have those 1250S's now, whats the review on them? can they be purchased at a local high performance store, or are they special order only?

im running stock heads and an aftermarket intake, i've heard some other reccomendations for stock heads as well. what do ya'll suggest?
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Old 12-28-2007, 12:07 PM   #2
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1250s are steel core gaskets but they come with the crappy cork end seals and are pricey I believe.

Fel-Pro MS93334 intake set for stock heads are steel core and come with rubber end seals.I used this set the last time and theres no leaks of coolant or oil.

I had regular 1250`s on before and they are garbage.They leaked coolant even after retorquing the lower 5 times and eventually they started leaking oil from the back of the lower intake.Junk!
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Old 12-28-2007, 12:45 PM   #3
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Spend the extra money and get the FPP-1250-S.

OEM reliability with performance size.
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Old 12-28-2007, 12:54 PM   #4
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What he said ^^^
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Old 12-28-2007, 02:43 PM   #5
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I thought he just said he uses 1250s' and they suck or is there a
1250 and 1250-2 (two different verison?
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Old 12-28-2007, 02:52 PM   #6
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There are two different types

The S version has the metal "interior" for longevity like the OEM gasket.
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Old 12-28-2007, 03:47 PM   #7
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I believe the part # you are looking for is FPP 1250s-3.
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Old 12-28-2007, 06:17 PM   #8
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I've been using Victor Reinz Nitroseal intake gaskets for years.
They have a steel core with a graphite facing. They hold torque and never leak.
1.20" X 2.00 port equal to a felpro 1250.

#95186SG large water port.
#95187SG small water port.

Not easy to find in stock.. A local Carquest store usually orders them for me. Worth the money if your tired of leaking felpros.
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Old 12-28-2007, 06:35 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SVT2785 View Post
I've been using Victor Reinz Nitroseal intake gaskets for years.
They have a steel core with a graphite facing. They hold torque and never leak.
1.20" X 2.00 port equal to a felpro 1250.

#95186SG large water port.
#95187SG small water port.

Not easy to find in stock.. A local Carquest store usually orders them for me. Worth the money if your tired of leaking felpros.

What kind of end seals do they come with?
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Old 12-28-2007, 07:27 PM   #10
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i used RTV as my end seal last time, but my bead was not as thick as it should have been. if i use the MS93334 should i use to rubber end gaskets? should i use them with RTV? i put about 1000 miles a month on the car, and run it at the track too, i need something that will hold up.
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Old 12-28-2007, 07:32 PM   #11
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http://store.summitracing.com/partde...3&autoview=sku
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Old 12-28-2007, 07:47 PM   #12
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Originally Posted by Got Booost? View Post
i used RTV as my end seal last time, but my bead was not as thick as it should have been. if i use the MS93334 should i use to rubber end gaskets? should i use them with RTV? i put about 1000 miles a month on the car, and run it at the track too, i need something that will hold up.

Those rubber end gaskets in the MS93334 kit work great.
I used silicone just in the corners with them.

If you have an aftermarket intake,these gaskets may be too small around the intake manifold ports,(not sure).

I think,but don`t know for sure that the Ford dealer may sell the rubber end seals separately so if you buy 1250s gaskets and don`t want to use the crap cork end seals you may be able to get the rubber ones.
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Old 12-28-2007, 07:50 PM   #13
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anything wrong with using straight RTV on the ends if it is done properly, ive heard it reccomended 1000's or times, and even scene it done on HP TV and the like.

btw, the intake is a typhoon so it has relatively the same port size as the Edel proformer RPM.
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Old 12-28-2007, 08:24 PM   #14
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Never personally tried using just RTV at the ends.
I`d rather just use the rubber end seals.

If you screw up and don`t put enough RTV down you`ll have leaks.
I just have more faith in the rubber end seals for some reason.
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Old 12-28-2007, 08:28 PM   #15
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Quote:
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Never personally tried using just RTV at the ends.
I`d rather just use the rubber end seals.

If you screw up and don`t put enough RTV down you`ll have leaks.
I just have more faith in the rubber end seals for some reason.
ok im planning to go with the 93334 kit, since im running stock heads. im going to give the rubber end seals a shot, since i've heard good things about them. i just put some ultra-black at the ends where they meet the heads right? or do i lay down a think coat the whole way just to have em stick?
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Old 12-28-2007, 08:45 PM   #16
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Just use RTV at the ends.I think there were instructions in the kit saying to do this.

Those rubber end seals won`t move-they have locating tabs that keep them in place on the ends of the block.

I used some longer 5/16" bolts with the heads cut off to use as guide pins so it lines up right the first time.
I also used Hylomar gasket sealer around the ports to seal and hold the gaskets in place during installation.
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Old 12-28-2007, 09:54 PM   #17
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I am running the 1250's just make sure you properly torque them. When I bought my car it was running bad, it sucked the gaskets in. The bolts were loose. Also don't use the cork end seals. You can use the rubber but I prefer 1/4" bead of Ultra Black. I do this professionally and am a master tech. I have never had issue with RTV. I have seen rubber end seals work they way out.
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Old 12-28-2007, 10:03 PM   #18
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I am running the 1250's just make sure you properly torque them. When I bought my car it was running bad, it sucked the gaskets in. The bolts were loose. Also don't use the cork end seals. You can use the rubber but I prefer 1/4" bead of Ultra Black. I do this professionally and am a master tech. I have never had issue with RTV. I have seen rubber end seals work they way out.

The lousey cork adhesive backed end seals I used with the 1250 gaskets eventually worked their way out and caused a nice oil leak at the back of the intake.
First I`ve heard of this happening with the rubber ones.
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Old 12-28-2007, 10:04 PM   #19
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We used a set of the 1250S-3 on my sons car and they worked great. Much better gasket than the cardboard 1250's. We used Permatex "The Right Stuff" at each end- zero leaks. Used Ultra black before and had leaks.
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Old 12-28-2007, 10:20 PM   #20
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You won't have any leaks with The Right Stuff RTV, But when it comes time to pull the intake again it will be fun. In a pinch I used it on the oil pan of my 68 mustang. I had to destroy the oil pan to get it off the motor. The rubbers can come out. Just like the cork they shrink and harden with age. Crank case pressures force them out and you get a leak. I see it everyday. Use what you want, I recommend RTV.
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Old 12-28-2007, 10:27 PM   #21
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The bottle of "The Right Stuff" says that is it used by OEM. I bet Ford uses it because I removed the oil pan off of my 94 cobra today and at the 4 corners where you always put silicone the gasket stuck like crazy. It was obviously not silicone. BUT, It never leaked a drip on my floor either. I really like that stuff. I would only use it on intake ends and in corners that need sealed and not on a entire gasket.
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Old 12-28-2007, 10:34 PM   #22
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How does RTV manage to not get forced out?
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Old 12-28-2007, 10:43 PM   #23
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Rtv will bond to a clean surface. I have been doing this for 20 years and never had a blowout with silicone. I also don't know any other techs who would consider using end seals. When I worked for Ford we just used a Ford grey or black RTV. At the time is came in a Ford tube, I believe it was made by permatex.

As a reference Edelbrock recommends only RTV:

http://static.summitracing.com/globa...21-perform.pdf

As does Weiand:

http://static.summitracing.com/globa...s/wnd-w535.pdf

Last edited by windsoreight; 12-28-2007 at 10:51 PM.
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Old 12-28-2007, 11:27 PM   #24
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Yup I had an oil leak because the guy before me didnt put enough rtv then I redid it with just the rtv and no leaks!!
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Old 12-28-2007, 11:28 PM   #25
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i tried using RTV last time, but had trouble dropping a nice continuous thick bead. which could explain the issues im having now. i think im going to use the end seals, i more than likely will have the intake off again within the next year or so.
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Old 12-28-2007, 11:52 PM   #26
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So much debate for such a simple problem.

Test fit the manifold before you apply the RTV. Position the intake gaskets on the head and lay the manifold in place. Take note of the gap between the block and the front of the manifold. You'll now know how thick the bead of RTV needs to be Remove the manifold, add the bead of RTV and then install the manifold. The whole idea behind using a good sealer (right stuff) on a street engine is so it doesn't leak and you don't have to take it apart. The same can be said for using a good intake gasket. Make sure all the surfaces are clean and oil free. Nothing beats Lacquer Thinner for removing surface oil.

If I pull the intake off my engine it's because I want to. Not because I have to replace some leaking POS gasket.
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Old 12-29-2007, 12:10 AM   #27
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if i use "The Right Stuff" for end seals, do i let it glaze over first? should i let it sit for any ammount of time before installing the lower? what RTV should i use around the water ports?
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Old 12-29-2007, 12:36 AM   #28
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Don't let it dry at all. You want it to stick to the manifold and block rail.
If your using a good intake gasket there is no reason to put any sealer around the water ports.
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Old 12-29-2007, 12:45 AM   #29
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Whatever,if you use the RTV,use guide pins like I mentioned so the lower intake lines up right the first time and doesn`t mess up the RTV bead.
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Old 12-29-2007, 09:28 AM   #30
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Don't let it dry at all. You want it to stick to the manifold and block rail.
If your using a good intake gasket there is no reason to put any sealer around the water ports.
What he said! Another advantage of the "right stuff" is that it comes in a pressurized can and is much easier to run a nice even bead. Also it is much thicker than the regular silicones ( like thick toothepaste) so it actually compress's as you lower the intake rather than just squish out like silicone. It says right on the can to assemble your parts within 5 minutes of applying it. It even says you can put the engine back into service right away, but I would wait overnight myself. When I first heard of it I took a thin piece of aluminum and folded it over leaving a gap similar to a intake end gap, like 1/8"-3/16" or so. I ran a bead of the "right stuff" in the gap of one piece and ultra black in the other. I waited a couple of days and "WOW", what a difference. The results: Ultra black- I could spread the aluminum apart and the silicone would stretch and started pulling off of the aluminum. I could take my finger nail and actually work the silicone right off of the alum without leaving any residue behind. "The Right Stuff- I could not spread the alum apart without bending it and whe I did get pull hard enough to rip it apart, it left a layer of sealer on both sides of the alum. You could take a scraper and work it off of the surface, but not with your finger nail. It's real obvious that the right stuff is a much tougher material and has much better adhesion. If you get some on your finger, you can tell right away that it is much stickier than silicone and thicker, which make it perfect for intake end gaps! Hope that helps.
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Old 02-27-2008, 09:34 AM   #31
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With the Victor Reinz gaskets do we need the large or small ports? Never used on of them before and I'm intrigued. There's like 4 carquests right near me too so I might just drop in and get a set.
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Old 02-27-2008, 11:22 AM   #32
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I looked into one of the Victor Graphite sets that someone posted the part numbers for and Napa told me they were discontinued.
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Old 02-27-2008, 12:53 PM   #33
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I use the fms gasket: M-9439-A302
with a little fipg (form in place gasket) i get from work..

Never had a oil leak.
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Old 02-27-2008, 12:58 PM   #34
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edit I ordered the Edelbrock 7220 gasket. Gonna pick up a metal core 1 piece oil pan gasket too. Eliminating all the big cardboard junk you get when you order one of those "full gasket kits" from a dealer. Oh well at least they gave me all the other nitnoid gaskets I need so I don't have to search around for them.
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Old 02-27-2008, 01:01 PM   #35
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Quote:
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I use the fms gasket: M-9439-A302
with a little fipg (form in place gasket) i get from work..

Never had a oil leak.
Is that the same as the black 1250 Fel-Pro gasket?
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