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Old 03-04-2007, 10:32 PM   #1
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How many miles before your new motor is 'really' broken in?

Most builders say take it easy for the first 500 miles or so. But I'm wondering how many miles till a motor really comes into it's own? Just curious.

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Old 03-04-2007, 11:21 PM   #2
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Most of what needs doing is done within the first 1/2 hour of running. Warm it up a little, don't lug it, load it and unload it in gear, all through it's normal rev range. After a 1/2 hour of that you're good to go. She'll continue to loosen up a bit over the next few hundred but that critical bore seal is established, which is the main point of a break in.

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Old 03-05-2007, 12:55 AM   #3
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WHEN I INSTALLED MY 408 FROM COAST HIGH PERF. THEY TOLD ME TO RUN IT FOR 20 MINUTES ON JACK STANDS, RUN THROUGH THE GEARS.....LET IT WORM UP. KILL IT.....LET IT COOL....DRAIN THE FLUIDS.....REFILL THE OIL, AND THEN RUN IT.
THINK ABOUT TOP FUEL CARS. THEY REBUILD THE ENGINE EVERY TIME, RUN IT TROUGH THE GEARS AND THEN GO BALLZ TO THE WALL.........
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Old 03-05-2007, 01:07 AM   #4
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brake it in like a wimp and it'll run like one......lol
just kidding.. i put mine on stands and warm it up and run it through the gears and let it coool then drain oil (replace it too) then do it again the next day.. seems to work for me.. ive doen 4 motors like this.. 2 chevy and 2 ford,nitrous n/a and s/c
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Old 03-05-2007, 07:54 PM   #5
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for those of u saying run it thru the gears. Do you mean redline it thru each gear or just shift at low revs like 2 or 3rpm?
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Old 03-05-2007, 08:21 PM   #6
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I have always been taught 3 heat cycles. Let it warm up completely and cool completely three times. Change the oil. Then hammer down. How is a strip only car going to complete 500 easy miles?
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Old 03-05-2007, 08:27 PM   #7
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I would be careful comparing a top fuel drag car to a driver that spends 1000's of miles on the road, not burning oil.

Different parts, tolerances, etc. used for each.

I wouldn't compare longevity vs. a 1/4 mile at a time in this case.
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Old 03-05-2007, 09:04 PM   #8
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Most answers are indicating that it happens almmost immediately. I guess where I was going was...do all the engine components start to settle in and coming together any more at say 1000 miles compared to the first 100?

Sounds like no.
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Old 03-05-2007, 09:30 PM   #9
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Assuming quality build, parts and machining - the rings will seat within minutes of start up. Be sure to prime the oil system so the start up isn't dry. Assuming good pressures, temps, no noises, no leaks - take it out and drive it. Vary the revs without really hammering it -- and taking it up to 4-5000 easily and then backing off helps seat the rings in. After a few heat cycles -- drain oil/filter. Then you're good to go. Drive it as hard (or not) as you like. With miles, things will continue to loosen up. Take a look at the performance data from the car mags that do long term tests. Almost always their cars are a few ticks quicker to 60, in the 1/4 and a couple of mph quicker on top end with 40,000 miles on them then when they're new. Also, probably best to use a non-synth oil for start up and for the first change or two. Amsoil wants you to wait til 5000 miles -- consult with your machinist -- how cylinders are finished and the ring choice dictates when the switch to synth can occur if you want to do that.
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Old 03-05-2007, 09:44 PM   #10
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no power shifts for two days
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Old 03-05-2007, 09:54 PM   #11
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I dyno'd my engine at about 500 miles, and it definitely "felt" looser than it did when I first got on it. In that 500 miles I didn't give it very high RPM but I definitely wasnt' shy about generating cylinder pressure and cylinder vacuum to seat the rings, with full-throttle bursts from 1500-4000 RPM and then off-throttle in gear decels. However when I took it back to the same dyno a few thousand hard miles later, it showed consistenly 10 more RWHP in quite similar conditions as before with no changes to tune or equipment.
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Old 03-05-2007, 10:54 PM   #12
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You need load to make the rings seal. Running it on jackstands ain't gonna provide that. Better to take it out and work it up and down the rev range a bit, like I said, then change the oil and filter and go for it.

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Old 03-05-2007, 11:03 PM   #13
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i put my coast motor in, pulled out my driveway, drove it up and down the street a few times, i tried not to beat it for 500 miles but probably only got to 150 before full throttle pulls to the red line, raced it at 500 miles and had it tuned on a dyno at 700, it has 2500 now and runs great, burns no oil, no smoke,
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Old 03-05-2007, 11:23 PM   #14
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Again -- talk to your machinist about the parts picked and the machining. About 17 million new engines a year are produced by the OEM's. They're fired for the first time, driven off the line and onto a truck and delivered to a dealer. The vast majority have no discernible break in treatment at all -- and they vast majority go on to produce 100k-200k-300k miles of reliable running usually with less maintenance than the folks in the threads are gonna give. If the right parts are picked, machinists know what they're doing and assembly is correct -- the rings are gonna seat within minutes of firing - whether it's on the jack stands or running up and down the street in front of your house. And if you don't get parts/machining/assembly right -- it won't matter much what you do.
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Old 03-05-2007, 11:55 PM   #15
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Good info here. I have about 2000 miles on my rebuilt 302 and it feels slightly quicker now than when I first dropped it in. Was wondering if that was normal or maybe I'm imagining things. The butt-o-meter seems to think it's a little quicker.

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Old 03-05-2007, 11:58 PM   #16
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Yup - they loosen up....
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Old 03-06-2007, 04:29 AM   #17
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I just refreshened my 331 and it has 180miles on it and it smokes. My first 331 smoked for a couple hundred miles and then finally quit. I have heard take it on the interstate and run up to 65mph and left off, then again, like 5-6 times and that will help ring sealing. I may try changing the oil and then goin on the interstate. How about goin to a thicker oil?? I have 10w 30 in it now
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Old 03-06-2007, 01:59 PM   #18
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i let it warm up check for leaks let it cool then go drive for a bit let it cool an drive it for a bit, varying the th rpm rang i'm in. i'm kinda easy on it till 500. i change the oil after the third heat cycle then again at 150mi then at 500mi then at 1500mi then at 2500mi then i switch to synthetic blended oil an let her rip.
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Old 03-06-2007, 02:01 PM   #19
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mine is a flat tappet cam
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Old 03-06-2007, 03:05 PM   #20
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Think of engine wear-in as the speed your car gains with respect to time when you accelerate from a standstill.

In the first two seconds, you might accelerate to 60 mph. Two seconds after that, you might only gain 20mph. And as you approach your top speed, your rate of acceleration continues to drop off, until you haven't quite topped out yet at 170 mph but it takes a full minute to get to 180 mph.

The majority of ring seating takes place in the first few minutes, where the most conflicting areas get worn off. Heat buildup is quite high because of this, which is why you NEVER load an engine in the first few minutes. After a while, you can apply some load, but too much will overheat rings and glaze the walls. After a couple hours runtime it's pretty much a functional powerplant, but break-in still continues. You can call it done at 1,000 miles if you like, but in reality engine wear will continue for the life of the engine.
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Old 03-06-2007, 10:52 PM   #21
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i had a 88 f250 with a 460, put a rebuilt engine in it and drove from denver to vegas, 750 miles starting with climing the rockys, put 30,000 on it before i sold it, never had a problem with that engine.
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Old 03-06-2007, 11:04 PM   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Michael Yount View Post
Again -- talk to your machinist about the parts picked and the machining. About 17 million new engines a year are produced by the OEM's. They're fired for the first time, driven off the line and onto a truck and delivered to a dealer. The vast majority have no discernible break in treatment at all -- and they vast majority go on to produce 100k-200k-300k miles of reliable running usually with less maintenance than the folks in the threads are gonna give. If the right parts are picked, machinists know what they're doing and assembly is correct -- the rings are gonna seat within minutes of firing - whether it's on the jack stands or running up and down the street in front of your house. And if you don't get parts/machining/assembly right -- it won't matter much what you do.

I agree.If Everything is right it doesnt require a "breakin".

On my 99, i installed the engine.Warmed it up.drove it around the block ,change the oil and went to the dyno for its tune.Motor had less than 10 miles on it ..Almost two years later its still going strong (actually stronger now than when it was first dynoed).
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