Pushrod length Difference... - Ford Mustang Forums : Corral.net Mustang Forum
 
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post #1 of 9 Old 01-19-2007, 01:44 AM Thread Starter
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Pushrod length Difference...

Ok I searched on this and all i could come up with was that I need to get some adjustable pushrods and find the correct geometry. My question is for you guys with early 351w heads on the roller motors. I have a set of Ported .030 Under D1OE's that I plan on throwing on my 91 LX (yes the lower will be milled as well), I need to know the length difference between the stock flat tappet pushrods and the roller pushrods so I can get some pushrods for my setup. The reason I cant get the "right" measurement right off the bat is because the head swap will be a one day deal, I dont have time to wait a week for custom pushrods to come in. Plus, for a short while I will be using the stock Rail type rocker arms and Im not too worried about power loss due to incorrect geometry because as we know rail types have tons of friction. I will take measurements when I have everything apart and determine the correct geo. and when I order my Roller Rockers, ill get new pushrods then. Until then I just need to know approx. what length to get?
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post #2 of 9 Old 01-19-2007, 02:29 AM
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your guess is as good as any...


might as well take a poll and get 15 different answers....


too many uncertain statements in your question / post.

as like,
what block....?
you have stated you have "early heads"...but then speak of "roller block'...

what block... a 302 ????
or a 351 W........?????


EARLY 351 W heads have a pressed in stud and a positive lock nut that bears against a shoulder on the stud...
THEN you speak of a "rail" type rocker arm...
...and then, you speak of a "roller rocker" ..well, it cannot be done without alterations to the original stock pressed in stud...there is NO "just throw it on" rocker for an original "early" 351 W head as you have described...
the heads have to be machined for a screw in stud.

you need to EXPLAIN, ....because you do not say WHAT EXACT stud design is on the D1 0E heads....

...???..WHAT is a ..." ported 30 under"....????


what you want to do is not a "one day job"....




or maybe you are just "baiting" some idiot wanna be poster...

Last edited by Kato Engineering; 01-19-2007 at 02:31 AM.
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post #3 of 9 Old 01-19-2007, 03:11 AM Thread Starter
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Ok, Number 1, Dont talk to me like im an idiot, You must make a lot of enemies here......

I will break it all down for ya, since you've been hittin the bottle tonight...

I have a 91 LX Coupe 5.0/T5, Its basically stock (other than the stuff Ive done, FMS shorties, Mac OR X-pipe, Flowmaster CB, CAI, 70mm MAF, UD pullies, 3G, removed smog pump and hardware), I dont think the engine has ever been opened up. That would make it a roller 5.0 block. The heads I was talking about are D1OE 351w heads, that makes them 71 castings, same basic casting as the D0/C9 head. The Heads Are Ported with Stock valves and have been shaved .030. They have the STOCK rail type Rocker arms on them with nuts and everything. I want to put those heads on my 5.0! Now if I have to put in Screw in studs to run roller rockers in the future, I might just do that before I put the heads on, But I dont see your point about NO roller rocker fitting the stock studs, im sure there is Because I know they make Rail type Roller Rocker Arms . What I am asking is what is the Roller Lifter pushrod length pedestal type versus the Flat tappet pedestal type pushrod length? The stock 302 rail type pushrod minus the difference in the Roller/Non-roller lifters, minus .030 or so, should give me ballpark pushrod length I need, that is of course if the 351w stud height is the same, which I assume it is since the valve length didnt change, and I see no reason for them to change the stud height. Is That too much for you to grasp Mr. Engineer?

And BTW, a head swap is a One day job, they do it all the time in the magazines.

Last edited by RacinNdrummin; 01-19-2007 at 03:18 AM.
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post #4 of 9 Old 01-19-2007, 03:24 AM
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Time to face reality. The only way to know the proper length is to measure.

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post #5 of 9 Old 01-19-2007, 03:26 AM Thread Starter
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I realize that, but this is temporary.
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post #6 of 9 Old 01-19-2007, 03:29 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RacinNdrummin View Post
Ok, Number 1, Dont talk to me like im an idiot, You must make a lot of enemies here......

I will break it all down for ya, since you've been hittin the bottle tonight...

I have a 91 LX Coupe 5.0/T5, Its basically stock (other than the stuff Ive done, FMS shorties, Mac OR X-pipe, Flowmaster CB, CAI, 70mm MAF, UD pullies, 3G, removed smog pump and hardware), I dont think the engine has ever been opened up. That would make it a roller 5.0 block. The heads I was talking about are D1OE 351w heads, that makes them 71 castings, same basic casting as the D0/C9 head. The Heads Are Ported with Stock valves and have been shaved .030. They have the STOCK rail type Rocker arms on them with nuts and everything. I want to put those heads on my 5.0! Now if I have to put in Screw in studs to run roller rockers in the future, I might just do that before I put the heads on, But I dont see your point about NO roller rocker fitting the stock studs, im sure there is Because I know they make Rail type Roller Rocker Arms . What I am asking is what is the Roller Lifter pushrod length pedestal type versus the Flat tappet pedestal type pushrod length? The stock 302 rail type pushrod minus the difference in the Roller/Non-roller lifters, minus .030 or so, should give me ballpark pushrod length I need, that is of course if the 351w stud height is the same, which I assume it is since the valve length didnt change, and I see no reason for them to change the stud height. Is That too much for you to grasp Mr. Engineer?

And BTW, a head swap is a One day job, they do it all the time in the magazines.


Phew...Well first let me say you are going to have to measure pushrod legnth with an adj. pushrod. No guessing.
Head swaps do take less than a day, but only after you do your homework and get all the right parts you need lined up on your workbench.
And KATO is one of the most knowledgable guys here, if not the most when it comes to critical engine specs/machining etc...
But just check so you know that you have the right valvetrain geometry when you are winding the motor up.

1986 GT, 306", Forged TRW's, Pro-Comp 190cc Alum. heads, Custom Lunati cam/lifters, Trickflow U/l, 73mm MAF, C&L trueflow, 70mm TB, Crane 1.6 rr's/hardened pushrods, 30 LB/HR inj, MSD ignition/coil, l/t headers to dumps, Full drag suspension/lift bars/cage etc. Stripped, etc...
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post #7 of 9 Old 01-19-2007, 03:35 AM Thread Starter
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Obviously, im not going to run the motor if the Geo is wacked. All I asked was for the difference in PR length stated earlier in my post. I have No doubt that Kato knows what he is talking about, its hard to have some 8,000 odd posts and be wrong all of the time, but there is NO reason for Being an ASS.
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post #8 of 9 Old 01-19-2007, 11:20 AM
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your gonna have to measure. but you there is no roller rockers the fit on those head you have to do a screw in stud conversion. i have a 69 351w in my play truck with roller rockers.

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post #9 of 9 Old 01-19-2007, 12:08 PM
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Let's just say this. Without measuring the pushrod length, the geometry has a 99.99992% chance of being "wacked". So you are wanting to buy 2 sets of pushrods? One now and one when you get time to measure? As it has been said many times above, you will have to measure to get it right or even close to right. Invest the $25 in length checkers and get on with it. I would say however, if you are going to change/convert the rockers, you should do so before checking and ordering pushrods. Just a thought.
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