High RPM cutting out, done the search and lots of replacement parts Please help - Ford Mustang Forums : Corral.net Mustang Forum
Go Back   Ford Mustang Forums : Corral.net Mustang Forum > Windsor Tech Forums > 5.0/5.8 Engine Tech

Corral.net is the premier Ford Mustang Forum on the internet. Registered Users do not see the above ads.
Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools Display Modes
Old 09-30-2006, 08:52 PM   #1
Registered User
 
faslane's Avatar

Trader Feedback: (2)
 
Join Date: Feb 2002
Location: Nashville TN
Posts: 1,157

High RPM cutting out, done the search and lots of replacement parts Please help

Hello, I have a 88 Gt that is all stock except cold air underdrives edlebrock 70 TB Accel coil stock H-pipe with cutted cats and flows, the problem is at about 3800 to 4200rpm under a load the car starts to cut in and out meaning if you hold it through the cutting out it will start to pull then cut out. It really only does it under a load in the drive way reving the car is fine.
These are the thing I have replaced and not differece. BTW car is speed density.
TPS (.88) WOT 4.67
IAB
TB
O2s
Plugs wire cap and button
Fuel pump and filter
ECM
timing is at 14 tried it all over the map from 5 to 20 no difference
coolant temp sensor
map sensor
No check engine light
put a fuel gauge out side the car so I could watch, picture perfect stay around 40psi
TFI moduel and dizzy out of other car known good
drove with fuel reg. unhooked
checked for vacume leaks 100 times
timming is advancing when you put the spout back in
put new autolites in again today gapped at factory specs.
nother new cap and bottom cap motorcraft and rotor button, no play
cleaned the salt and pepper shakers, and spreaded prongs
check to see if all the inj were plugged in good
Ran with EGR unhooked
Ran with Iab unhooked
Rand with spout out
smog pump is bypassed
Great oil pressure runs at 195 degrees
does not smoke does not seem rich or lean
does everthing correct?
The car is cutting out and or missing or somthing at those RPMs it just kinda goes wacky.
Thing I am going to do tommorrow
compression check
change the dizzy and moduel out of the coupe
change wire again it has the accel wires and I dont really car for accel
What else, I am getting tired of this one, need help in a bad way or atleast opinions. BTW the car is high miles over 200k but uses no oil or smoke or nothing,very well cared for, And I do hear some valvetrain noise at a Idle but not any more than alot of stangs I have had. I am also wondering if the gutted cats are messing with the o2s. This is a nice car not cut up or chopped on and had a buch of jack legs under the hood.
Any help or advice and opinions would greatly be appreciated.
Thanks again
Lane

Last edited by faslane; 10-05-2006 at 08:06 PM.
faslane is offline  
Digg this Post!Add Post to del.icio.usBookmark Post in TechnoratiTweet this Post!
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
Old 09-30-2006, 09:20 PM   #2
Registered User
 
lx2gt's Avatar

Trader Feedback: (0)
 
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: las vegas
Posts: 309

o2 sensors? module inside the dizzy, try running it with the o2 disconnected, i have the same problem with my 347, today i unpluged the o2's and it runs like a raped ape.
__________________
90 notch, 347, 185's, 12.6 @ 110

66 coupe with mustang 2 front and a 4 link and 8.8 in the rear, coil overs all around with a 4.6L in the works
lx2gt is offline  
Digg this Post!Add Post to del.icio.usBookmark Post in TechnoratiTweet this Post!
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 09-30-2006, 10:10 PM   #3
Registered User

Trader Feedback: (0)
 
Join Date: May 2003
Location: Ca.
Posts: 287

Could possibly be a bad fuel injector or clogged fuel injector.
PacificGt is offline  
Digg this Post!Add Post to del.icio.usBookmark Post in TechnoratiTweet this Post!
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 10-01-2006, 08:35 AM   #4
Registered User
 
faslane's Avatar

Trader Feedback: (2)
 
Join Date: Feb 2002
Location: Nashville TN
Posts: 1,157

compression 150 on all 8
faslane is offline  
Digg this Post!Add Post to del.icio.usBookmark Post in TechnoratiTweet this Post!
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 10-01-2006, 08:57 AM   #5
Registered User

Trader Feedback: (0)
 
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: ohio
Posts: 844

unpluge the sparkplug wires one at a time and run it and see if you can isolate the problem
89llx is offline  
Digg this Post!Add Post to del.icio.usBookmark Post in TechnoratiTweet this Post!
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 10-01-2006, 09:07 AM   #6
Registered User
 
faslane's Avatar

Trader Feedback: (2)
 
Join Date: Feb 2002
Location: Nashville TN
Posts: 1,157

I took the plug wires and blaster coil of my coupe and problem solved, I done both of these at the same time becouse I did not want to be hammering it at 6am I will put back one at a time and let yall know.
faslane is offline  
Digg this Post!Add Post to del.icio.usBookmark Post in TechnoratiTweet this Post!
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 10-01-2006, 11:59 AM   #7
Registered User
 
pkstang's Avatar

Trader Feedback: (143)
 
Join Date: Feb 2000
Location: Marlborough, MA
Posts: 6,795

it's the coil
__________________
'90 notch w/an "old school" cartech outlaw kit

When The Results Disagree With The Theory: Believe The Results And Invent A New Theory
pkstang is offline  
Digg this Post!Add Post to del.icio.usBookmark Post in TechnoratiTweet this Post!
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 10-01-2006, 12:21 PM   #8
Registered User
 
faslane's Avatar

Trader Feedback: (2)
 
Join Date: Feb 2002
Location: Nashville TN
Posts: 1,157

Quote:
Originally Posted by pkstang View Post
it's the coil
it's the coil.............
Thanks
Lane
faslane is offline  
Digg this Post!Add Post to del.icio.usBookmark Post in TechnoratiTweet this Post!
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 10-01-2006, 04:05 PM   #9
MFE
Super Moderator
 
MFE's Avatar

Trader Feedback: (8)
 
Join Date: Nov 1999
Location: Phoenix
Posts: 25,839

When it happened to me, it was a (new) plug wire resting against the oil dipstick housing and shorting out. I thought I got it when I fixed the one against the header flange, so then I put a coil and a TFI in it for no gain, turned out to be the wire/dipstick tube
MFE is offline  
Digg this Post!Add Post to del.icio.usBookmark Post in TechnoratiTweet this Post!
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 10-01-2006, 07:10 PM   #10
Registered User
 
faslane's Avatar

Trader Feedback: (2)
 
Join Date: Feb 2002
Location: Nashville TN
Posts: 1,157

Quote:
Originally Posted by pkstang View Post
it's the coil
Well spoke to soon, I put the old accell wires back on becouse we thought it was the coil, drove it and there it was again but not as bad, so I thought its the wires so I put the wires back on off my coupe and swapped the coil back to the accell, and drove it and there it was again but not as bad. So I asume that it was neither, so I went back to trouble shooting. Ran the car with the O2s unpluged and no diffrence. even put in a new ignition switch (That one has got me a few times) nothing... so I thought I would go back to the setup this morning where I thought I had it. The MSD blaster coil and the very exspensive LIVEWIRES of the coupe and put the TPS down from 98 to 88 ( I thought I had it so I bumped the TPS) and drove the car, It is there but only a very very little skip, sometimes. I can live with it and I am very picky, but I am determined to find It, I was thinking a MSD Blaster has alot more spark than a old accel and LIVEWIRES are alot better conductor than accel so It would seem to be a spark issue? now I am leaning towards the dizzy or something in it. BTW has anyone ever had a blaster coil make noise not loud but noise ,you could never here it in the coupe, anyway thanks for everyone reading and giving suggestions I would still be trying thing but the old car has had a hard day. Its hard to put them through that when you get into your 30s.
Thanks get them coming, very determined I got the 93 coupe a nother 88 GT vert That are great cars or the coupe was....to try parts
Thanks again
Lane
faslane is offline  
Digg this Post!Add Post to del.icio.usBookmark Post in TechnoratiTweet this Post!
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 10-01-2006, 08:26 PM   #11
Registered User
 
pkstang's Avatar

Trader Feedback: (143)
 
Join Date: Feb 2000
Location: Marlborough, MA
Posts: 6,795

few years back i had a similar problem and after changing just abut everything, which helped me out in the long run, i found that the actual #1 spark plug corroded like i've never seen before and was causing the misfire
__________________
'90 notch w/an "old school" cartech outlaw kit

When The Results Disagree With The Theory: Believe The Results And Invent A New Theory
pkstang is offline  
Digg this Post!Add Post to del.icio.usBookmark Post in TechnoratiTweet this Post!
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 10-01-2006, 09:40 PM   #12
Registered User
 
faslane's Avatar

Trader Feedback: (2)
 
Join Date: Feb 2002
Location: Nashville TN
Posts: 1,157

Quote:
Originally Posted by pkstang View Post
few years back i had a similar problem and after changing just abut everything, which helped me out in the long run, i found that the actual #1 spark plug corroded like i've never seen before and was causing the misfire
The plugs are new, and the wires, I am leaning to the voltage to the coil not being correct, or I think there is a pick up coil in the dizzy, whould you are someone else know what voltage I should have at the coil with the car running? and also being a high mile motor should I try a diffrent hotter plug with a certain gap, I think I have the autolites 25 or 26s gap at the factory gap on the catalist tag on the black cover over the coil I think it was 54? The car will still pull all the way to 6 grand (factory tach)? but you can feel it miss or cut out between 4000 and 5000, and see the tach bounce mabye once or twice, or not at all like this morning. I think I am loosing spark or not enough spark at these times.
Thanks again
Lane
faslane is offline  
Digg this Post!Add Post to del.icio.usBookmark Post in TechnoratiTweet this Post!
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 10-01-2006, 11:48 PM   #13
MFE
Super Moderator
 
MFE's Avatar

Trader Feedback: (8)
 
Join Date: Nov 1999
Location: Phoenix
Posts: 25,839

I bet your power peak is between 4000 and 5000 RPM. Consequently that's when your cylinder pressures are highest...and when the ignition system cannot generate enough energy in one or more cylinders to create enough spark to make it fire. Like sending that energy somewhere else (to ground) or bleeding over to a neighboring wire that has less resistance from that point to spark plug tip. This is why it's critical to keep the #5 and #6 plug wires as much as possible along their entire lengths...they're next to each other in the firing order and they love to crossfire.

If it feels like a relatively "even" misfire, not really all-out cutting out, but dropping a cylinder or two, I'd really look to the individual feeds for the cylinders, the wires, the plugs.
MFE is offline  
Digg this Post!Add Post to del.icio.usBookmark Post in TechnoratiTweet this Post!
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 10-02-2006, 05:51 PM   #14
Registered User
 
faslane's Avatar

Trader Feedback: (2)
 
Join Date: Feb 2002
Location: Nashville TN
Posts: 1,157

Quote:
Originally Posted by MFE View Post
I bet your power peak is between 4000 and 5000 RPM. Consequently that's when your cylinder pressures are highest...and when the ignition system cannot generate enough energy in one or more cylinders to create enough spark to make it fire. Like sending that energy somewhere else (to ground) or bleeding over to a neighboring wire that has less resistance from that point to spark plug tip. This is why it's critical to keep the #5 and #6 plug wires as much as possible along their entire lengths...they're next to each other in the firing order and they love to crossfire.

If it feels like a relatively "even" misfire, not really all-out cutting out, but dropping a cylinder or two, I'd really look to the individual feeds for the cylinders, the wires, the plugs.
Everthing is good and new, It actually runs better with the old live wires off my coupe than with the ones I bought to fix the problem, So it does the same thing with 3 differrent sets of wires and I have changed plugs three times the first was gapped at 45 out of the box the second at factory specs and the third at factory specs, I replace the third set when I done a comp. check and what the hell mabye it may fix it..
Thanks again
Lane
faslane is offline  
Digg this Post!Add Post to del.icio.usBookmark Post in TechnoratiTweet this Post!
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 10-02-2006, 06:05 PM   #15
Registered User

Trader Feedback: (3)
 
Join Date: May 2003
Location: Los Angeles, CA
Posts: 5,847

broken valve springs? pull the valve covers and check. that what was wrong in mine.
__________________
88 Coupe- R331ci, SB billet crank, titanium rods, 11.5:1, Vic Jr 220cc heads, S-trim 18lbs.,680rwhp.
06 GTO- Pedders Track ll, chrome Maggie TVS 2300- 540/550 @rw on 8lbs.
89 Coupe-MM road race 347, 11:1, AFR 205, Vic EFI, 400/385 @rw, NA
93 Black Mustang Cobra-R356ci, Victor 300cc heads, Sup Vic
strker347 is offline  
Digg this Post!Add Post to del.icio.usBookmark Post in TechnoratiTweet this Post!
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 10-02-2006, 08:19 PM   #16
Registered User
 
faslane's Avatar

Trader Feedback: (2)
 
Join Date: Feb 2002
Location: Nashville TN
Posts: 1,157

Quote:
Originally Posted by strker347 View Post
broken valve springs? pull the valve covers and check. that what was wrong in mine.
was your car do the same thing, and will I be able to spot the broken spring.
faslane is offline  
Digg this Post!Add Post to del.icio.usBookmark Post in TechnoratiTweet this Post!
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 10-02-2006, 08:23 PM   #17
Registered User

Trader Feedback: (3)
 
Join Date: May 2003
Location: Los Angeles, CA
Posts: 5,847

mine was missing @ 5000rpm and we checked everything. I had one broke on each side from overeving, pull off the valve covers and look at ur springs. It s/b very visible.
__________________
88 Coupe- R331ci, SB billet crank, titanium rods, 11.5:1, Vic Jr 220cc heads, S-trim 18lbs.,680rwhp.
06 GTO- Pedders Track ll, chrome Maggie TVS 2300- 540/550 @rw on 8lbs.
89 Coupe-MM road race 347, 11:1, AFR 205, Vic EFI, 400/385 @rw, NA
93 Black Mustang Cobra-R356ci, Victor 300cc heads, Sup Vic
strker347 is offline  
Digg this Post!Add Post to del.icio.usBookmark Post in TechnoratiTweet this Post!
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 10-02-2006, 09:00 PM   #18
Registered User
 
Joel5.0's Avatar

Trader Feedback: (1)
 
Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: Puerto Rico
Posts: 5,718

Suggestions:

1. Do a KAM reset (disconnect battery for 3-5 minutes) to the ECM.
2. Reconnect everything (O2's, EVP, etc)
3. Run a DIY KOEO self-test, and as soon as the codes start to flash, disconnect the STI to SIGRTN jumper (this will clear the code 15 it should have registered due to the battery disconnect), turn ign off.
4. Do a couple of test drives forcing the condition to happen.
5. Rerun a KOEO and a KOER self-test combo and LUK what codes show up.
__________________
ACRONYMS:
LUK=Let Us Know, GL=Good Luck, LMK=Let Me Know, JIC=Just In Case, BTSTDTRT=Been There Seen That Done That Repaired That, YCYDYP=Your Car Your Dough Your Prerogative and the classic... DILLIGAS=Do I Look Like I Give A S***

1986 Mustang GT w/T-Tops

NOW: 5.0L Stock shortblock, X303 Cam, SP Offy. Port-O-Sonic, 700 cfm DP Holley, 289 '66, 1.7 RR, Richmond Gear 4+1 Trans., Centerforce DF kit, 2.73 Gears

WIP: 3.90 Gears(Motive Performance), LS Overhaul (FRPP), Adj. LCA's (New Design Granatelli Aluminum), Adj. UCA's (Granatelli), Caster/Camber Plates (MM), Subframe Conn. (MM) T-Top weatherstriping and rear braces bodywork
Joel5.0 is offline  
Digg this Post!Add Post to del.icio.usBookmark Post in TechnoratiTweet this Post!
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 10-02-2006, 09:47 PM   #19
Registered User
 
faslane's Avatar

Trader Feedback: (2)
 
Join Date: Feb 2002
Location: Nashville TN
Posts: 1,157

I will to the test and let you know, BTW has anyone had a blaster MSD coil make a faint humming noise,
faslane is offline  
Digg this Post!Add Post to del.icio.usBookmark Post in TechnoratiTweet this Post!
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 10-02-2006, 11:14 PM   #20
Registered User
 
blk93's Avatar

Trader Feedback: (11)
 
Join Date: Jul 2004
Location: n.c.
Posts: 811

man i have that same problem. just like you i have changed everything. mines start cutting out around 5200rpm. the more i run it hard towards that rpm the more it starts acting up. i have come to the conclusion that my valvesprings must be getting weak. i just can't think of anything else. everytime i have used a aftermarket coil it makes a lound buzzing sound and then shuts my car off(especially msd's) once the car runs for about 30 minutes it will shut off and want crank unless i wait about another 40-minutes or just put my factory coil back on.
blk93 is offline  
Digg this Post!Add Post to del.icio.usBookmark Post in TechnoratiTweet this Post!
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 10-03-2006, 07:40 AM   #21
Registered User
 
faslane's Avatar

Trader Feedback: (2)
 
Join Date: Feb 2002
Location: Nashville TN
Posts: 1,157

Mine does not shut off but It does make the buzzing noise, I pulled up next to my brother yesterday and he could here it when I pulled up and his truck was running, Does anyone else have this problem? and what does anyone know what the coil voltage should be at the two vire connector with it running, I am thinking this could be the problem, I would like to check into this problem more along with the test that Joel mention before pulling the top of the motor apart. Mabye somthing in the dizzy is bad not wanting to take in the extra voltage the MSD puts out causing the noise??
Thanks again, I really appreciate all the feedback
Lane
faslane is offline  
Digg this Post!Add Post to del.icio.usBookmark Post in TechnoratiTweet this Post!
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 10-03-2006, 07:53 AM   #22
Registered User
 
autobahnjunky's Avatar

Trader Feedback: (0)
 
Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: Belleville, IL
Posts: 251

I had that issue and it was a worn distributor gear. The rotor had play in it, threw in my other dizzy and it went away.
__________________
5 liters of turd under the hood with one of those K&N filters and some bosch plutonium +8 sparkplugs
autobahnjunky is offline  
Digg this Post!Add Post to del.icio.usBookmark Post in TechnoratiTweet this Post!
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 10-03-2006, 11:57 AM   #23
Registered User
 
Stanger90's Avatar

Trader Feedback: (3)
 
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: Campbellsport, WI
Posts: 74

I had this problem for the last month. Think I found it yesterday. I was coming home from work when I realised that I did'nt have any oil pressure. Of couse I didn't see it until I was turning into my driveway. Then I heard the ticking!! The car was running fine yet and temp was good, but it was doing the death tick!! I pulling the dizzy and used a 1/4 socket to turn the oil pump, guess what, ya I wasn't turning anything. The pump must have died or shattered or maybe the shaft stripped out on the pump side. Shes dead, It has high miles on the bottom end. Point is she was breaking up at around 4200 for a month and I change everything I could think of without finding the problem. Hope this did'nt reck my heads!! Hope this isn't your problem!!
__________________
347 Stroker, Canfield Heads, Ported Edelbrock, 76mm maf, 75mm Throttle Body, Aerometer fuel regulator, XE274HR Comp Cam, 36lb FMS Injectors, Quarterhorse, Roller Rockers, Pulleys, FMS Shorties, X-pipe, Dynamax catback, T5, 3.73's in the back, Eibachs, KB subframe connecters and lower control arms.
Stanger90 is offline  
Digg this Post!Add Post to del.icio.usBookmark Post in TechnoratiTweet this Post!
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 10-03-2006, 03:26 PM   #24
Registered User
 
vristang's Avatar

Trader Feedback: (9)
 
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: Seattle, WA
Posts: 2,012

As Joel suggested, pull the codes.
I am always amazed at how many "***** was wrong with my car, so ****** must be wrong with your car too" responses there are.
Start by pulling the codes, everytime a problem comes up.


Also,
Having the car run better with the O2's disconnected doesn't mean the O2's are bad. It just means that the car is running better in Open Loop as opposed to Closed Loop.
Generally speaking,
Disconnecting sensors is not a good way to diagnose problems on these cars.


Just my .02

jason
__________________
SeattleBlueOvals.com

1990 GT - something 351w based... some day
1987 LX - n/a 2.3 daily driver, using an EDIS v8 ecu/QH
vristang is offline  
Digg this Post!Add Post to del.icio.usBookmark Post in TechnoratiTweet this Post!
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 10-03-2006, 07:42 PM   #25
Registered User
 
faslane's Avatar

Trader Feedback: (2)
 
Join Date: Feb 2002
Location: Nashville TN
Posts: 1,157

I cleared the codes tonight, I will drive it tommorrow and pull the codes and let everone know, the dizzy has under 1/8 inch in play and I check all the other cars and dead on the same as this one, has 50 to 60psi oil preassure.
I do appreciate everone .02 really It all help . I am determined to fix the problem I dont care what I have to do or spend. I get it....
let yall know what codes if any
Thanks again
Lane
faslane is offline  
Digg this Post!Add Post to del.icio.usBookmark Post in TechnoratiTweet this Post!
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 10-04-2006, 08:16 PM   #26
Registered User
 
faslane's Avatar

Trader Feedback: (2)
 
Join Date: Feb 2002
Location: Nashville TN
Posts: 1,157

Done the KOEO test when I got home, had code 67 and that was the only one.
When I tried to duplicate the problem I twisted it up twice and never did it but the second time it popped through the airbox. So what is the word on code 67.
Thanks again for any help
Lane
faslane is offline  
Digg this Post!Add Post to del.icio.usBookmark Post in TechnoratiTweet this Post!
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 10-04-2006, 08:47 PM   #27
Registered User
 
faslane's Avatar

Trader Feedback: (2)
 
Join Date: Feb 2002
Location: Nashville TN
Posts: 1,157

Sorry, forgot to do the KOER test, went out and done it put the jumper in and the test light connected started the car got 4 blinks right of the bat, then the car went through the high idle deal then cam down and got the 3 codes 94,44,and 33. and went to do the KOEO test again and the 67 was gone all I got was the 11. So Joel (and others) what is wrong with the piece of Junk...
Thanks
Lane
faslane is offline  
Digg this Post!Add Post to del.icio.usBookmark Post in TechnoratiTweet this Post!
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 10-05-2006, 09:10 AM   #28
Registered User
 
faslane's Avatar

Trader Feedback: (2)
 
Join Date: Feb 2002
Location: Nashville TN
Posts: 1,157

Erased the codes this morning and drove around a while, Drove it out the back door one time never popped missed nothing???? On the KOEO no codes the 67 was becouse it was not in nuetral, and on the KOER test the same 94,44,33 The 94,44 is the result of the air pump being bypassed and the 33? check all vacume lines to the diagram, and condition, and cleaned the electrical connections. cleared EEC Drove, 33 still there
Thanks
Lane
faslane is offline  
Digg this Post!Add Post to del.icio.usBookmark Post in TechnoratiTweet this Post!
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 10-05-2006, 12:24 PM   #29
Registered User
 
Joel5.0's Avatar

Trader Feedback: (1)
 
Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: Puerto Rico
Posts: 5,718

Quote:
Originally Posted by faslane View Post
Erased the codes this morning and drove around a while, Drove it out the back door one time never popped missed nothing???? On the KOEO no codes the 67 was becouse it was not in nuetral, and on the KOER test the same 94,44,33 The 94,44 is the result of the air pump being bypassed and the 33? check all vacume lines to the diagram, and condition, and cleaned the electrical connections. cleared EEC Drove, 33 still there
Thanks
Lane
Yep...67 = operator error....lol...when you run the self-tests tranny should be in neutral.

Codes 44 and 94 is a test routine the system does for the air routing using the O2 sensors, since you have the smog system off, it's OK.

Code 33 = the EVP sensor is not detecting the EGR valve is being opened when the EVR solenoid is activated to send vacuum to the valve. In your case, you have the same condition as an EGR delete....since the system doesn't detect the valve opening, it deletes/bypasses the EGR function. If you want/need the EGR operational, you would have to check the EVR solenoid...check it for vacuum supply at the inlet port, 12vdc ign on at the 12vdc supply terminal, and the wire from the EVR signal terminal to pin 33 at the ECM connector.....the solenoid itself might also be stuck closed, not allowing vacuum switching to the EGR valve.

LUK
__________________
ACRONYMS:
LUK=Let Us Know, GL=Good Luck, LMK=Let Me Know, JIC=Just In Case, BTSTDTRT=Been There Seen That Done That Repaired That, YCYDYP=Your Car Your Dough Your Prerogative and the classic... DILLIGAS=Do I Look Like I Give A S***

1986 Mustang GT w/T-Tops

NOW: 5.0L Stock shortblock, X303 Cam, SP Offy. Port-O-Sonic, 700 cfm DP Holley, 289 '66, 1.7 RR, Richmond Gear 4+1 Trans., Centerforce DF kit, 2.73 Gears

WIP: 3.90 Gears(Motive Performance), LS Overhaul (FRPP), Adj. LCA's (New Design Granatelli Aluminum), Adj. UCA's (Granatelli), Caster/Camber Plates (MM), Subframe Conn. (MM) T-Top weatherstriping and rear braces bodywork
Joel5.0 is offline  
Digg this Post!Add Post to del.icio.usBookmark Post in TechnoratiTweet this Post!
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 10-05-2006, 03:49 PM   #30
Registered User
 
faslane's Avatar

Trader Feedback: (2)
 
Join Date: Feb 2002
Location: Nashville TN
Posts: 1,157

I am going to check it all out, is it possible this is the problem?? Or is it a waste of time with the problem I am having, but I will check it out anyway.
BTW Joined the other site you moderate on cool site. (hince the knowledge of the 44,and 94 and 67)
Thanks let you know
Lane
faslane is offline  
Digg this Post!Add Post to del.icio.usBookmark Post in TechnoratiTweet this Post!
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 10-05-2006, 08:03 PM   #31
Registered User
 
faslane's Avatar

Trader Feedback: (2)
 
Join Date: Feb 2002
Location: Nashville TN
Posts: 1,157

I got vacume to the EVR soleniod and the red wire to it has 12VDC and the green signal vire only had 7VDC so I thought this was the problem, So I went to check my 88 vert to see what the signal wire read, when I probed the wire the EGR sucked in and the motor died, went back to the Hatch and done the same thing with it running and nothing, Then took the EVR off my coupe, put it on the hatch and probed the green wire and the EGR sucked in, The car sounds better runs better and even has a better smell running, Car has not run this good in years. I will leave the coil and live wires on the car. Just by new for the coupe. Someone else posted to always do these test before throwing parts at it. That is my motto now, I did not even know speed density did not have a check engine light, Thanks to Joel and all the others and for the ones that said they were going through the same thing do yourself a favor and do the test and save time and money.
Joel I owe you two beers now
Thanks again
Lane
faslane is offline  
Digg this Post!Add Post to del.icio.usBookmark Post in TechnoratiTweet this Post!
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 10-05-2006, 09:57 PM   #32
Registered User
 
Joel5.0's Avatar

Trader Feedback: (1)
 
Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: Puerto Rico
Posts: 5,718

Quote:
Originally Posted by faslane View Post
I got vacume to the EVR soleniod and the red wire to it has 12VDC and the green signal vire only had 7VDC so I thought this was the problem, So I went to check my 88 vert to see what the signal wire read, when I probed the wire the EGR sucked in and the motor died, went back to the Hatch and done the same thing with it running and nothing, Then took the EVR off my coupe, put it on the hatch and probed the green wire and the EGR sucked in, The car sounds better runs better and even has a better smell running, Car has not run this good in years. I will leave the coil and live wires on the car. Just by new for the coupe. Someone else posted to always do these test before throwing parts at it. That is my motto now, I did not even know speed density did not have a check engine light, Thanks to Joel and all the others and for the ones that said they were going through the same thing do yourself a favor and do the test and save time and money.
Joel I owe you two beers now
Thanks again
Lane
Glad to read you got it fixed....and ...to that...
__________________
ACRONYMS:
LUK=Let Us Know, GL=Good Luck, LMK=Let Me Know, JIC=Just In Case, BTSTDTRT=Been There Seen That Done That Repaired That, YCYDYP=Your Car Your Dough Your Prerogative and the classic... DILLIGAS=Do I Look Like I Give A S***

1986 Mustang GT w/T-Tops

NOW: 5.0L Stock shortblock, X303 Cam, SP Offy. Port-O-Sonic, 700 cfm DP Holley, 289 '66, 1.7 RR, Richmond Gear 4+1 Trans., Centerforce DF kit, 2.73 Gears

WIP: 3.90 Gears(Motive Performance), LS Overhaul (FRPP), Adj. LCA's (New Design Granatelli Aluminum), Adj. UCA's (Granatelli), Caster/Camber Plates (MM), Subframe Conn. (MM) T-Top weatherstriping and rear braces bodywork
Joel5.0 is offline  
Digg this Post!Add Post to del.icio.usBookmark Post in TechnoratiTweet this Post!
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
Reply

Bookmarks

Quick Reply
Message:
Options

Register Now

In order to be able to post messages on the Ford Mustang Forums : Corral.net Mustang Forum forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name, your email address and other required details in the form below.
User Name:
If you do not want to register, fill this field only and the name will be used as user name for your post.
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.
Password:
Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid email address for yourself.
Email Address:

Log-in

Human Verification

In order to verify that you are a human and not a spam bot, please enter the answer into the following box below based on the instructions contained in the graphic.



Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On



All times are GMT -4. The time now is 08:43 AM.



Powered by vBulletin® Copyright ©2000 - 2014, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.
Search Engine Friendly URLs by vBSEO 3.5.2
© 2010-2011 Corral.net

Garage Plus vBulletin Plugins by Drive Thru Online, Inc.