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Old 09-27-2003, 08:18 PM   #1
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400 M crank good for a 351 stroker?

what is involved in taking a 400 m crank and puting it into a 351 stroker? what are the specs on the stroke and rod jounal size and what rods and would i need to make it all work? also how much power would that crank be good for?
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Old 09-27-2003, 08:24 PM   #2
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im thinking that you have to turn them down, then that makes them week and the break.
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Old 09-28-2003, 02:15 AM   #3
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A 400M crank used to be the hot set up to build a 408. Now you can buy a new cqst SCAT or Eagle 408 crank for less than the price of modifying a spent junkyard crank.

I talked to a shop about taking a 351C crank, cutting the mains to fit a 302 and offset grinding the rod journals .100 to make a 3.6 stroke crank. This would make a 360+ ci stroker out of a 302. The shop gave me an estimate of $600-$700 , just for the mods. Then another $200-$300 to balance it
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Old 09-28-2003, 02:33 AM   #4
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well i work at a machine shop so i can do all the work myself or get one of the other more experinced guys to help me. but i need to know what is involved and if it would hold the power that i want and reliably to. there is a 400 m crank in good shape there that i could pick up for about $75. my goal is to get into the 9s. i figure 750hp (nitrous assisted probably a 200 shot) should be plenty in a 3200 lbs car. this is going to be my every day car, so comp. is going to be in the 10.0 range and i only paln to spin the engine to 6500 at the most, that should help keep those 3" mains happy. but i am going to need a rotating assembly that is going hold that power and reliably, well as reliably as a 750 hp engine can.
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Old 09-28-2003, 08:48 PM   #5
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so does anyone have any idea?
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Old 09-29-2003, 01:11 AM   #6
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I read somewhere a while ago that all you have to do is machine the end of the crank. Where the rear main seal would go. And all the rod and main journals are the same as the 351. But there is a lip on the end of the crank. Thats the cheap part. I think then you have to use Crysler rods and a custom piston. I'm not postive about the custom pistons . but I'm 99% sure you have to use the Crysler rods. I was thinking about doing the same thing. If you want I can look for that issue for you....Marc
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Old 09-29-2003, 01:22 AM   #7
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thanks but dont worry about it. how strong are those cranks though?
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Old 09-29-2003, 02:27 AM   #8
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not even close to 750 rwhp strong and 200 shot strong.
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Old 09-29-2003, 10:07 AM   #9
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Click on this and download the file, it's only 158 KB. ftp://ftp.chucko.com/fordnatics/archive/stroker.text

It has LOTS of homemade stroker stuff in there, how to offset grind it or reduce the OD of the counterweights. Makes for a good read.

The stock 400M crank cut down will not support 750HP. Go with an Eagle or Scat 4" stroke forged crank.
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Old 10-02-2003, 12:37 PM   #10
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I thought the 400m had Clevland mains ?
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Old 10-02-2003, 06:47 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally posted by hotboat1
I thought the 400m had Clevland mains ?
Nope, The 351M/400 have 3 inch mains.
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Old 10-03-2003, 07:00 PM   #12
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You also have to turn down the counterweights on the throws, they won't clear the block without doing that. There is a lip behind the crank gear that needs to be removed for the 351w crank gear to line up properly with the cam gear. The rear flange needs to have a lip machined off to fit into the main saddle. If I remember correctly, you use Chrylser 360 rods, which I think are 6.250 long, although you can turn the rod journals down to use the better Eagle rods for common 408 stroker kits. You can do a nice 408 stroker from Keith Craft or Coast for about 1400 for the kit with good h-beam rods, lightweight forged pistons and a cast steel crank, with a forging costing about 400 more...Like LTD LX said, go with Eagle or Scat on the crank, much, much cheaper, stronger, better all around.
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Old 11-17-2003, 02:32 AM   #13
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The SCAT and Eagle cranks are off-shore cranks, not made in USA. I'm running a 400M crank in my 408 stroker and that thing is solid. According to my father (metallurgist), Ford used really good material in their cast cranks. In fact, they produced the strongest cast cranks ever back in the 60s and 70s. The professional drag guys back then used to run a stock 351C high nodular cast iron crank in the low 9s and 10,000 RPM (with oiling mods, of course). Detonation is the number one killer of a cast crank.

I run a 400M crank, Chrysler 360 rods rebushed, shotpeened, polished, etc. at 12:1 compression in a C90E block that puts 550 horse and 580 ft-lbs of torque to the pavement. I don't spin it past 6000 and it seems to be fine. I did put a girdle on the block, though. I also made sure that the main caps were perfectly align honed and every oil clearance was perfect. I have spun a rod bearing on this combination before.
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Old 11-17-2003, 09:16 AM   #14
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I built my 408 before anyone knew what they were and aftermarket cranks started at $1100.00 for the cheap ones. It has a 400M crank in it. They are the strongest nodular iron cranks Ford made. I currently make close to 600 hp and could squeak into the NINES with a Jerico but I'm currently installing a 'Glide and hooking up an NOS Bigshot. I will be looking to run deep into the EIGHTS on the bottle. My crankshaft was internally balanced though. It also didn't cost 200- 300 dollars to balance; more like 750! I would recommend using an aftermarket rotating assembly because they are so damn cheap these days. But, If you can do all the machine work yourself, it may be worth it. Call me crazy for using a nodular iron crank. If it gets destroyed during my quest for EIGHTS, oh well. I'm looking to build a killer Dart blocked motor in the next couple of years anyhow.....James
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Old 11-17-2003, 01:00 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally posted by whitestang18
so does anyone have any idea?
I do, because I have done exactly what your wanting to do with the 408 clevor I'm currently building. I had a friend of mine who has a lathe did most of the fitting to the 351W block. He had to cut about 3/4" from the counter weights to get it to clear the block. Then, I had to take the crank to a machine shop and have the rod journals turned down and widened to fit the 6.2 chevrolet rods. The 400M crank will take the power, I know a guy who used one of the old 408 stroker kits that used to come with these stock 400M cranks for over 10 years. Now, it will be much easier and cheaper to just buy a 408 crank unless you know someone who can modify the 400M crank for almost free like I did.
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