Modifying Trick Flow Box R Effects on Power??? - Ford Mustang Forums : Corral.net Mustang Forum
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post #1 of 13 Old 05-17-2017, 08:21 PM Thread Starter
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Modifying Trick Flow Box R Effects on Power???

So I may have finally found a way to get the Box R on my setup, I'll be welding tabs onto the upper to mount it directly to the lower without the 1" spacer, unfortunately that still isn't enough, I may mill 1/8" from the upper and possibly 1/4-1/2" from the lower intake.

The distributor isn't an issue with my setup, I'm going to do a test fit to verify clearance with my fuel rails since I'm going so much lower.

My main concern is what chopping 1.5" off the height of the intake does to the way it makes power now, would it result in more or less power?

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post #2 of 13 Old 05-18-2017, 10:48 AM
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depends on other things that you haven't shared. Less length is usually associated with power at more rpm but that is affected by everything else in the engine's air path including cam specs. 1.5" is not a huge change, you're going from about 9.75" to 8.25" total intake runner length - then add in port length.


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post #3 of 13 Old 05-18-2017, 01:54 PM
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depends on other things that you haven't shared. Less length is usually associated with power at more rpm but that is affected by everything else in the engine's air path including cam specs. 1.5" is not a huge change, you're going from about 9.75" to 8.25" total intake runner length - then add in port length.
Yeah, agreed - but - he also has to watch the transition between the two pieces. That spacer/adapter allows for a half-way decent transition area for the intersecting runners. Last thing it needs is a sharp dog leg from the plenum to the lower.
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post #4 of 13 Old 05-18-2017, 02:22 PM
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Yeah, agreed - but - he also has to watch the transition between the two pieces. That spacer/adapter allows for a half-way decent transition area for the intersecting runners. Last thing it needs is a sharp dog leg from the plenum to the lower.
Absolutely !

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post #5 of 13 Old 05-18-2017, 05:05 PM Thread Starter
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So with that being said should I not try it out and just go with a super victor instead, I'm a little concerned about driving with the super victor on the street, I may just try them both and see what happens, ideally I'd like to run the Box R. What's another 1k dollars now after everything it's a drop in the bucket.
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post #6 of 13 Old 05-23-2017, 06:25 PM
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Originally Posted by turboLXstang View Post
So I may have finally found a way to get the Box R on my setup, I'll be welding tabs onto the upper to mount it directly to the lower without the 1" spacer, unfortunately that still isn't enough, I may mill 1/8" from the upper and possibly 1/4-1/2" from the lower intake.

The distributor isn't an issue with my setup, I'm going to do a test fit to verify clearance with my fuel rails since I'm going so much lower.

My main concern is what chopping 1.5" off the height of the intake does to the way it makes power now, would it result in more or less power?
This subject has been beaten to death on this board and YB. Do a search and you'll find what your looking for.
FYI, not sure how much experience you have with welding cast aluminum.. if you weld tabs on the box there is probably a 99% chance they will break off the first time you tighten it down. Best bet is to mill .5" off the lower, spacer and upper then re-port the center to clean up the angles created.
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post #7 of 13 Old 05-23-2017, 09:50 PM Thread Starter
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I've done plenty of searching on the subject, I can't find anyone to mill the spacer locally for me, but without the spacer I'm still touching the back of my hood. A new hood is out of the question. I need to mill 3/8" - 1/2" off the lower intake and weld the tabs to the upper and eliminate the spacer completely to run the intake without hitting anything. I'm concerned what the resulting runners will do, if it doesn't work I'll try the Super Victor. My welder is really good, I'll make sure he knows it's cast aluminum.
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post #8 of 13 Old 05-24-2017, 11:19 AM
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If hood clearance is an issue get a Holley SMII and be done with it.

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post #9 of 13 Old 05-24-2017, 08:06 PM Thread Starter
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I decided to bolt the Box R on and I'm going to remove the hood, make a few runs and data log to see what's happening, if I find the time I'll try and dyno the car without the hood on. If I find out that was my issue with my results I'll then remove the intake manifold and here's how I'll accomplish shortening it to clear my hood. I'll mill 1/4" off the upper, 1/2" off of the lower and then I'll weld the 1" adaptor plate to the upper and afterwards I'll mill 5/8" off the upper with the adaptor welded on it and redyno to see the effects shortening the runners had.
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post #10 of 13 Old 05-26-2017, 10:10 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by turboLXstang View Post
I decided to bolt the Box R on and I'm going to remove the hood, make a few runs and data log to see what's happening, if I find the time I'll try and dyno the car without the hood on. If I find out that was my issue with my results I'll then remove the intake manifold and here's how I'll accomplish shortening it to clear my hood. I'll mill 1/4" off the upper, 1/2" off of the lower and then I'll weld the 1" adaptor plate to the upper and afterwards I'll mill 5/8" off the upper with the adaptor welded on it and redyno to see the effects shortening the runners had.
So, you're going with option 2 from your other thread. I think that's a good idea.

393w Dyno Results Uncover New Issue (Long Read)

I'm looking forward to the results. Please keep us posted.


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, TW 205 heads, tmoss TFS Box-R intake,
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post #11 of 13 Old 05-26-2017, 11:37 AM Thread Starter
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Yeah going to run the box without the hood, I've got the lower manifold at the machine shop getting 1/2" removed from it, I'll be able to run a 1" spacer and still be able to run the regular R Upper if the Box has drivability issues on the street (I don't think it will).

I'm not going to do any milling of the upper or the adaptor plate yet, I'd like to dyno it and get a baseline. If all works well together I will then mill the plate 5/8" (found a way to get it milled, won't have to do any welding) and probably 1/4" from the upper.

The plan is then to re dyno the car to see how the extra 3/4" milling affects the power.

If it works I'll be taking the upper to be mirror polished, I think it looks good under the hood.



Off topic, I did get my speedhut gauges mocked up, the install for these were really easy, genius product.



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post #12 of 13 Old 05-26-2017, 10:24 PM
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Gauges and engine look sharp.

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post #13 of 13 Old 05-26-2017, 10:40 PM
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That car is sharp and he's a super nice dude. I'm looking forward to seeing his dyno results.
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