1990 5.0 been sitting and want to start it? - Ford Mustang Forums : Corral.net Mustang Forum
 
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post #1 of 16 Old 03-18-2017, 11:23 AM Thread Starter
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1990 5.0 been sitting and want to start it?

I have a 1990 notch 5.0
Last running over 6 years ago.
What would you do before trying to start it again.

Change oil and filter, pull plugs, oil down cylinders, pull coil wire, turn over, disconnect fuel rail and drain old "gas".???

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post #2 of 16 Old 03-18-2017, 11:32 AM
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Change oil first then remove distributor and prime the oil system. May be overkill but im sure those bearings have pretty much been dried up from sitting that long. Safe than sorry.

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post #3 of 16 Old 03-18-2017, 11:34 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pajeepman View Post
I have a 1990 notch 5.0
Last running over 6 years ago.
What would you do before trying to start it again.

Change oil and filter, pull plugs, oil down cylinders, pull coil wire, turn over, disconnect fuel rail and drain old "gas".???

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what were the conditions it was stored in?

heated, humidity controlled environment?

89 GT gr-40, KB2200(10psi), tweecer R/T,LC-1, 22gal cell, w/tailpipes.
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post #4 of 16 Old 03-18-2017, 11:44 AM Thread Starter
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I asked buddy who is MUCH more knowledgeable than me about cars and he said if it was a roller motor, pulling the distributor was just more work that was not really needed.

Car was parked outside in my driveway in SE Pennsylvania the whole time.

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post #5 of 16 Old 03-18-2017, 12:20 PM
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the engine is probably not really any worse, but the moisture in the crankcase will be high

the fuel system, not going on a limb, if was not treated, is done

89 GT gr-40, KB2200(10psi), tweecer R/T,LC-1, 22gal cell, w/tailpipes.
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post #6 of 16 Old 03-18-2017, 12:38 PM Thread Starter
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the fuel system, not going on a limb, if was not treated, is done
What do you mean by "done"?

Injectors clogged, in tank pump shot?


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post #7 of 16 Old 03-18-2017, 12:39 PM
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Drain the oil, replace it. Pulled all the plugs and turn the engine over by hand. Then prime the engine oil pump with a drill. Drain all the gas, and replace the filters. Chances are too it's gonna leak some oil after sitting that long. You are probably in store for more work to get it running than you think. Google it, or YouTube a video on doing this, that's your best bet so you can see what all you should do.

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post #8 of 16 Old 03-18-2017, 12:46 PM
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If it has been sitting that long the fuel is no good, it will be like varnish, you will need to drain the tank, even better remove tank have it cleaned out, possible bad pump, clean the lines, change the oil, put in new fuel, start car, make sure other fluids such as coolant are ok, let the car run a bit then change the oil again. keep your fingers crossed, one thing you might want to do first is rotate the engine by hand make sure it will at least turn by hand before going through the rest. you can open the fuel cap and sniff, if id does not smell like gas and more like turpentine it WILL not start.
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post #9 of 16 Old 03-18-2017, 02:04 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pajeepman View Post
What do you mean by "done"?

Injectors clogged, in tank pump shot?


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look in the tank,

you might consider replacing tank, pump, lines, filter rails, regulator and injectors

If it were me, I would just replace it all, otherwise you risk just having continual issues.

the fuel of six years ago, is usually good for 3 to 6 months

water in the system will oxidize the inside of the fuel system

Flushing the system will not remove oxidization

89 GT gr-40, KB2200(10psi), tweecer R/T,LC-1, 22gal cell, w/tailpipes.
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post #10 of 16 Old 03-18-2017, 03:27 PM
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Sure rotate it by hand with dry bearings, by dry i mean lack of oil. Wet with moisture absolutely. Dont turn it by hand yet. Drain and refill the oil. Take a flat head screwdriver or chisel and mark the distributor to the block. Take a Sharpe marker and mark the rotor to distributor base. Pull the distributor and prime it. Reinstall distributor. Pull plugs and use a small amount of trans fluid to lube cylinder walls. Now turn by hand. Reinstall plugs and give it a try. It will smoke from the trans fluid and will clear up pretty quickly. If the fuel system is varnished you are going to be replacing parts. At least you did try to save the bearings to the best of your ability.

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post #11 of 16 Old 03-18-2017, 08:12 PM
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If I were you I would sell it to me for a fair price so you don't have to work about getting it running. ?
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post #12 of 16 Old 03-18-2017, 10:17 PM Thread Starter
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If I were you I would sell it to me for a fair price so you don't have to work about getting it running. ?
Hell no, it might not be much to look at now but in 1994 it was running 12.70 on the motor with street tires and 11.44 on slicks with nitrous. And it was my daily driver until 2010


Circa 1994

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post #13 of 16 Old 03-20-2017, 06:26 PM
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I left my sitting in the garage for around 5 years.
Had a half tank of gas with stabil in it.
All I did was pump the gas out by removing the fuel line and jumping the pump.
Added new gas then fired her up then changed the oil.

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post #14 of 16 Old 03-22-2017, 08:00 AM
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when priming the oil circuit through the dizzy hole, don't rotate it by hand until you've primed first. Then rotate half a turn, prime again, rotate, prime, repeat a couple times just to be sure all the bearings and lifters get filled before actually firing it up.
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post #15 of 16 Old 03-22-2017, 09:01 AM
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Prime it. Change oil. See if it runs with junk fuel maybe add some additive. I'm sure you'll change the fuel filter and pump and has once you hear it fire up.

In the time it took to read these posts it could be running.

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post #16 of 16 Old 03-22-2017, 01:03 PM
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^^^Agreed
Mine sat in the driveway for at least 3 years.

Threw a new battery in it a few weeks ago and started it up. That's with 1/8 tank of untreated pump gas.

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