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Spark Plug Wire Holders - Separator

9K views 31 replies 14 participants last post by  Stew_Magoo 
#1 ·
Hello

Can I get your feedback on what you have for wire separators, if you like them or hate them?? I am looking for something more show quality then just plastic clips or tie raps.

In the lines of these
Auto part Metal



Normally aspirated, no blower or turbo

Thanks in advance
 
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#3 ·
Interested in the replies here as well as I'm getting new wires tomorrow and don't want them to melt on the headers like my last set did.

Those look great though. Are the studs supposed to be uses as the valve cover bolts on the bottom three holes of each valve cover?
 
#4 ·
I have a SN95 but plan on using aluminum Fox covers. The separators pictured is made from a company called "Made4you" in the US. They came highly recommended for my GM, in a GM forum. Problem is I can't seem to find a kit already made for the 5.0, and due to the V/C bolt position, some pieces might need to be tried and returned, not a big deal for you guys south of the border.I am thinking starting from the dizzy and going back, one 4 wire clip, then 3 wire clip with bolt. 3 wire, then 2 wire with a bolt...throw in some 2 wire clip to keep the straglers tight, idonno.

Searching here, lots recommend
R&M Billet Wire Looms 1105-90-P
there are a few pics if you look, I am leaning towards this but Made4you looks much better quality, from a picture anyways...

If you find something, please post it here

Regards
 
#8 ·
I'm using the same type wire separators, but the valve cover spacers are the vertical type. Fit and function is good, but removing individual wires is a pain. Also used some clear rtv to "stick" the s/s hex nuts in place. Otherwise count on dropping/losing them often.
 
#9 ·
What I did on my 66. I was trying to keep kind of a factory look. Not a restoration but something that looked like it came from Ford. You see I have 85 Mustang covers. I had to use 3/8" gaskets to clear the roller rockers. I bought longer ARP style bolts, integral washer bolts, welded 1/8" rod to the head and used factory loom holders that slip on the 1/8" rod from the junk yard. I didn't take too many pictures of them though. That's a GT40P

 
#11 ·
I'm sorry, don't take this personal as the consumer, but the idea of a company making and selling a metal separator to customers is just stupid. They should be shot for doing that.

If a customer ever cross-fires a rising piston on a compression stroke the customer is screwed. It will bend a rod or break something if the engine is spinning fast.

I use plastic molded separators. The rule I follow is never to run two adjacent distributor wires any distance, and to hold my wires apart and away from other wiring or metal as much as possible.

For example, with a 1-3-7-2-6-5-4-8 order you have a potential crossfire issue with 1 and 3 on the right bank and 6 and 5 on the left bank. If 1 cross fires to 3 it can ignite 3 on the upstroke. If 6 talks to 5 it can fire 5 on the upstroke.

This is why you never want to risk an unnecessary path between adjacent posts on the distributor. You could get an extra 90 degree spark advance ignition on the next cylinder, and sometimes that causes severe damage.

When I wire a distributor with a 13726548 order I place the right bank in 1-2-3-4 order all the way to the distributor with spacing between wires. I place the left bank 5-7-6-8 to the distributor. This way if any wire cross talks spark to an adjacent wire it is at least 180 plus advance out of cycle. The problem I have with an ungrounded metal spacer is if the wire punches through to the metal, it can cross talk to any other plug wire in the loom.

It may never to one person in one lifetime, but if 100,000 of them are out there it can happen to someone somewhere. It's like buying a lottery ticket. The dumbest thing I ever see is someone lacing all the wires in a tight bundle, but a metal spacer is right up there second place.
 
#18 ·
Per Tom's excellent guidance above -- keep 'em off anything metal, keep 'em from crossing each other (parallel). I used black plastic holders that bolt together around the wires with a little Allen-head bolt. You can get kits cheap that come with multiple 2-wire, 3-wire and 4-wire holders. If you zoom in a bit you can see how easy it is to keep the wires parallel/from crossing over each other -- from when the 5.0L was in the car. These are like the OP's but without the mounting stands.

 
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#20 ·
Per Tom's excellent guidance above -- keep 'em off anything metal, keep 'em from crossing each other (parallel). I used black plastic holders that bolt together around the wires with a little Allen-head bolt. You can get kits cheap that come with multiple 2-wire, 3-wire and 4-wire holders. If you zoom in a bit you can see how easy it is to keep the wires parallel/from crossing over each other -- from when the 5.0L was in the car.
Nice. What looms you use on your LS3? :)
 
#30 ·
I've used black plastic wire ties on all of my show cars. When done correctly; they blend in nicely with the black wires. My buddy is an award winning hot rod builder who has had builds featured in various magazines. He uses wire ties on all of his builds unless the customer specifies differently. Just some personal input and to each their own.
 
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