Spark Plug Wire Holders - Separator - Ford Mustang Forums : Corral.net Mustang Forum
 11Likes
  • 2 Post By Saleen414
  • 1 Post By jstang86
  • 1 Post By Daves8950LX
  • 2 Post By MellowRock
  • 1 Post By Saleen414
  • 1 Post By Michael Yount
  • 1 Post By Daves8950LX
  • 1 Post By sradtodrag
  • 1 Post By fasterthangas
 
LinkBack Thread Tools Display Modes
post #1 of 32 Old 03-05-2017, 10:43 AM Thread Starter
Registered User
 
MecGen's Avatar
 
Trader Feedback: (0)
Join Date: Jun 2014
Location: Montreal, Canada
Posts: 333
Spark Plug Wire Holders - Separator

Hello

Can I get your feedback on what you have for wire separators, if you like them or hate them?? I am looking for something more show quality then just plastic clips or tie raps.

In the lines of these
wire holder.jpg


Normally aspirated, no blower or turbo

Thanks in advance


Space my be the final frontier
but its made in a Hollywood basement.
RedHotChilliPeppers.
MecGen is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #2 of 32 Old 03-07-2017, 10:20 PM
Registered User
 
Stew_Magoo's Avatar
 
Trader Feedback: (16)
Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: Bayview, Wis
Posts: 689
Those look real nice. What kind of valve covers do you have? What Kind of headers?


1993 Mustang LX Coupe H/C/I 306/T5/IRS
1997 Lincoln Mark VIII
Stew_Magoo is offline  
post #3 of 32 Old 03-08-2017, 07:54 AM
Registered User
 
Trader Feedback: (0)
Join Date: Nov 2015
Posts: 31
Interested in the replies here as well as I'm getting new wires tomorrow and don't want them to melt on the headers like my last set did.

Those look great though. Are the studs supposed to be uses as the valve cover bolts on the bottom three holes of each valve cover?
jpedi001 is offline  
 
post #4 of 32 Old 03-08-2017, 08:37 AM Thread Starter
Registered User
 
MecGen's Avatar
 
Trader Feedback: (0)
Join Date: Jun 2014
Location: Montreal, Canada
Posts: 333
I have a SN95 but plan on using aluminum Fox covers. The separators pictured is made from a company called "Made4you" in the US. They came highly recommended for my GM, in a GM forum. Problem is I can't seem to find a kit already made for the 5.0, and due to the V/C bolt position, some pieces might need to be tried and returned, not a big deal for you guys south of the border.I am thinking starting from the dizzy and going back, one 4 wire clip, then 3 wire clip with bolt. 3 wire, then 2 wire with a bolt...throw in some 2 wire clip to keep the straglers tight, idonno.

Searching here, lots recommend
R&M Billet Wire Looms 1105-90-P
there are a few pics if you look, I am leaning towards this but Made4you looks much better quality, from a picture anyways...

If you find something, please post it here

Regards

Space my be the final frontier
but its made in a Hollywood basement.
RedHotChilliPeppers.
MecGen is offline  
post #5 of 32 Old 03-08-2017, 12:20 PM
Corral Elite Member
 
Saleen414's Avatar
 
Trader Feedback: (2)
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Maple Valley Wa.
Posts: 1,239
These work real well. Like what the OP pictured, but out of billet aluminum.

StrokedFox and MecGen like this.

1989 Saleen 414 358cid SBF 2.8L Kenne Bell S/C
26 X 8.5 Hoosier
Best 1/4 mile time 8.623 @ 159.82 mph with a 1.34 60' (5.55 1/8th at 128)
Best 1/8 mile time 5.384 @ 130.75 mph with a 1.29 60'
2001 V-6 5 speed Mustang 189k miles and counting
08' Bullitt #4097 N/A 325 RWHP <<<<<FOR SALE!
Saleen414 is offline  
post #6 of 32 Old 03-08-2017, 01:58 PM
Registered User
 
Trader Feedback: (0)
Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: charleston, wv
Posts: 36
The Made For You Products ones pictured are the most functional ones I have found.
MecGen likes this.
jstang86 is offline  
post #7 of 32 Old 03-08-2017, 09:30 PM Thread Starter
Registered User
 
MecGen's Avatar
 
Trader Feedback: (0)
Join Date: Jun 2014
Location: Montreal, Canada
Posts: 333
Quote:
Originally Posted by Saleen414 View Post
These work real well. Like what the OP pictured, but out of billet aluminum.jpg[/IMG]
I was thinking of running the wires in the front of the VC not over the top, but this works..

Space my be the final frontier
but its made in a Hollywood basement.
RedHotChilliPeppers.
MecGen is offline  
post #8 of 32 Old 03-08-2017, 09:33 PM
Registered User
 
Trader Feedback: (0)
Join Date: Feb 2002
Location: Ontario, Canada
Posts: 322
I'm using the same type wire separators, but the valve cover spacers are the vertical type. Fit and function is good, but removing individual wires is a pain. Also used some clear rtv to "stick" the s/s hex nuts in place. Otherwise count on dropping/losing them often.

Bill M (old gearhead)
95 GTS aode, jmod, 355 frpp, alum d/s, cobra intake, 1.7 r/r, pioneer sfi balancer, bbk ceramic shorties.
Wmac is offline  
post #9 of 32 Old 03-14-2017, 10:27 AM
Registered User
 
Trader Feedback: (0)
Join Date: Jun 2016
Posts: 128
What I did on my 66. I was trying to keep kind of a factory look. Not a restoration but something that looked like it came from Ford. You see I have 85 Mustang covers. I had to use 3/8" gaskets to clear the roller rockers. I bought longer ARP style bolts, integral washer bolts, welded 1/8" rod to the head and used factory loom holders that slip on the 1/8" rod from the junk yard. I didn't take too many pictures of them though. That's a GT40P

Huskinhano1 is online now  
post #10 of 32 Old 03-14-2017, 11:00 AM
Registered User
 
Trader Feedback: (6)
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Chesterfield, Mi
Posts: 339
I use the R&M horizontal wire loom separators and love them. Cant really remove a individual wire with the turbo, but it allows for a nice clean setup.

Daves8950LX is offline  
post #11 of 32 Old 03-16-2017, 02:52 PM
Registered User
 
TomR's Avatar
 
Trader Feedback: (2)
Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: Macon, GA
Posts: 4,659
Garage
I'm sorry, don't take this personal as the consumer, but the idea of a company making and selling a metal separator to customers is just stupid. They should be shot for doing that.

If a customer ever cross-fires a rising piston on a compression stroke the customer is screwed. It will bend a rod or break something if the engine is spinning fast.

I use plastic molded separators. The rule I follow is never to run two adjacent distributor wires any distance, and to hold my wires apart and away from other wiring or metal as much as possible.

For example, with a 1-3-7-2-6-5-4-8 order you have a potential crossfire issue with 1 and 3 on the right bank and 6 and 5 on the left bank. If 1 cross fires to 3 it can ignite 3 on the upstroke. If 6 talks to 5 it can fire 5 on the upstroke.

This is why you never want to risk an unnecessary path between adjacent posts on the distributor. You could get an extra 90 degree spark advance ignition on the next cylinder, and sometimes that causes severe damage.

When I wire a distributor with a 13726548 order I place the right bank in 1-2-3-4 order all the way to the distributor with spacing between wires. I place the left bank 5-7-6-8 to the distributor. This way if any wire cross talks spark to an adjacent wire it is at least 180 plus advance out of cycle. The problem I have with an ungrounded metal spacer is if the wire punches through to the metal, it can cross talk to any other plug wire in the loom.

It may never to one person in one lifetime, but if 100,000 of them are out there it can happen to someone somewhere. It's like buying a lottery ticket. The dumbest thing I ever see is someone lacing all the wires in a tight bundle, but a metal spacer is right up there second place.


To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
89 LX. 363, single turbo S482 FMW, Super Vic EFI, Fox Lake Stage III heads, solid roller, glide. Holley HP EFI. (combo varies)
TomR is offline  
post #12 of 32 Old 03-16-2017, 09:03 PM
Registered User
 
Trader Feedback: (6)
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Chesterfield, Mi
Posts: 339
Quote:
Originally Posted by TomR View Post
I'm sorry, don't take this personal as the consumer, but the idea of a company making and selling a metal separator to customers is just stupid. They should be shot for doing that.

If a customer ever cross-fires a rising piston on a compression stroke the customer is screwed. It will bend a rod or break something if the engine is spinning fast.

I use plastic molded separators. The rule I follow is never to run two adjacent distributor wires any distance, and to hold my wires apart and away from other wiring or metal as much as possible.

For example, with a 1-3-7-2-6-5-4-8 order you have a potential crossfire issue with 1 and 3 on the right bank and 6 and 5 on the left bank. If 1 cross fires to 3 it can ignite 3 on the upstroke. If 6 talks to 5 it can fire 5 on the upstroke.

This is why you never want to risk an unnecessary path between adjacent posts on the distributor. You could get an extra 90 degree spark advance ignition on the next cylinder, and sometimes that causes severe damage.

When I wire a distributor with a 13726548 order I place the right bank in 1-2-3-4 order all the way to the distributor with spacing between wires. I place the left bank 5-7-6-8 to the distributor. This way if any wire cross talks spark to an adjacent wire it is at least 180 plus advance out of cycle. The problem I have with an ungrounded metal spacer is if the wire punches through to the metal, it can cross talk to any other plug wire in the loom.

It may never to one person in one lifetime, but if 100,000 of them are out there it can happen to someone somewhere. It's like buying a lottery ticket. The dumbest thing I ever see is someone lacing all the wires in a tight bundle, but a metal spacer is right up there second place.
The metal separators have the wires bolted to a plastic separator. Nothing different than your wires touching the valve covers or any other piece of metal in the engnine bay. I'll take a pic of mine once I get them back together on Saturday.
TomR likes this.
Daves8950LX is offline  
post #13 of 32 Old 03-17-2017, 01:23 PM
Registered User
 
Trader Feedback: (0)
Join Date: Nov 2012
Location: Cincinnati
Posts: 12
made for you, 5075611

MecGen and Huskinhano1 like this.
MellowRock is offline  
post #14 of 32 Old 03-18-2017, 10:45 AM
Registered User
 
Trader Feedback: (0)
Join Date: Jun 2016
Posts: 128
Quote:
Originally Posted by MellowRock View Post
made for you, 5075611


Mighty fine looking motor! Funny I just got a 7 blade thermstatic fan for mine too. I like those wire separator. What's it going in?
Huskinhano1 is online now  
post #15 of 32 Old 03-18-2017, 11:08 AM
Corral Elite Member
 
Saleen414's Avatar
 
Trader Feedback: (2)
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Maple Valley Wa.
Posts: 1,239
Quote:
Originally Posted by TomR View Post
I'm sorry, don't take this personal as the consumer, but the idea of a company making and selling a metal separator to customers is just stupid. They should be shot for doing that.

If a customer ever cross-fires a rising piston on a compression stroke the customer is screwed. It will bend a rod or break something if the engine is spinning fast.

I use plastic molded separators. The rule I follow is never to run two adjacent distributor wires any distance, and to hold my wires apart and away from other wiring or metal as much as possible.

For example, with a 1-3-7-2-6-5-4-8 order you have a potential crossfire issue with 1 and 3 on the right bank and 6 and 5 on the left bank. If 1 cross fires to 3 it can ignite 3 on the upstroke. If 6 talks to 5 it can fire 5 on the upstroke.
-
This is why you never want to risk an unnecessary path between adjacent posts on the distributor. You could get an extra 90 degree spark advance ignition on the next cylinder, and sometimes that causes severe damage.

When I wire a distributor with a 13726548 order I place the right bank in 1-2-3-4 order all the way to the distributor with spacing between wires. I place the left bank 5-7-6-8 to the distributor. This way if any wire cross talks spark to an adjacent wire it is at least 180 plus advance out of cycle. The problem I have with an ungrounded metal spacer is if the wire punches through to the metal, it can cross talk to any other plug wire in the loom.

It may never to one person in one lifetime, but if 100,000 of them are out there it can happen to someone somewhere. It's like buying a lottery ticket. The dumbest thing I ever see is someone lacing all the wires in a tight bundle, but a metal spacer is right up there second place.

If metal seperators are a problem, then you are using the wrong plug wires.......
Stew_Magoo likes this.

1989 Saleen 414 358cid SBF 2.8L Kenne Bell S/C
26 X 8.5 Hoosier
Best 1/4 mile time 8.623 @ 159.82 mph with a 1.34 60' (5.55 1/8th at 128)
Best 1/8 mile time 5.384 @ 130.75 mph with a 1.29 60'
2001 V-6 5 speed Mustang 189k miles and counting
08' Bullitt #4097 N/A 325 RWHP <<<<<FOR SALE!
Saleen414 is offline  
post #16 of 32 Old 03-18-2017, 04:42 PM
Registered User
 
Trader Feedback: (0)
Join Date: Nov 2012
Location: Cincinnati
Posts: 12
Quote:
Originally Posted by Huskinhano1 View Post
Mighty fine looking motor! Funny I just got a 7 blade thermstatic fan for mine too. I like those wire separator. What's it going in?
It went into this:



MellowRock is offline  
post #17 of 32 Old 03-18-2017, 05:03 PM
Registered User
 
1995gtCPE's Avatar
 
Trader Feedback: (34)
Join Date: Nov 2002
Location: Ohio
Posts: 1,621
Quote:
Originally Posted by MellowRock View Post
It went into this:


Ive seen this car at edgewater. So damn clean, one of the nicest builds ive seen in person. Sleeper too! Cant remember what you ran. I know its way faster than that engine pic leads people to believe!!!

80 coupe, A4 347, Bullet hyd roller, ported 11r 190's, ported Super Vic, HPI e85 carb, Liberty TKO500/4.30
1995gtCPE is offline  
post #18 of 32 Old 03-18-2017, 05:05 PM
Registered User
 
Michael Yount's Avatar
 
Trader Feedback: (17)
Join Date: Apr 2002
Location: Charlotte, NC
Posts: 34,583
Per Tom's excellent guidance above -- keep 'em off anything metal, keep 'em from crossing each other (parallel). I used black plastic holders that bolt together around the wires with a little Allen-head bolt. You can get kits cheap that come with multiple 2-wire, 3-wire and 4-wire holders. If you zoom in a bit you can see how easy it is to keep the wires parallel/from crossing over each other -- from when the 5.0L was in the car. These are like the OP's but without the mounting stands.

MecGen likes this.

Michael Yount - Charlotte, NC - 82 Volvo 242 - 6.2L; '15 Fit; '16 CrossTrek
Michael Yount is offline  
post #19 of 32 Old 03-18-2017, 05:07 PM
Registered User
 
Trader Feedback: (0)
Join Date: Nov 2012
Location: Cincinnati
Posts: 12
Quote:
Originally Posted by 1995gtCPE View Post
Ive seen this car at edgewater. So damn clean, one of the nicest builds ive seen in person. Sleeper too! Cant remember what you ran. I know its way faster than that engine pic leads people to believe!!!
nice! that pic was actually at edgewater. i've ran there several times along with Kil-Kare, Mt Park and Tri-State.
MellowRock is offline  
post #20 of 32 Old 03-18-2017, 05:07 PM
Registered User
 
1995gtCPE's Avatar
 
Trader Feedback: (34)
Join Date: Nov 2002
Location: Ohio
Posts: 1,621
Quote:
Originally Posted by Michael Yount View Post
Per Tom's excellent guidance above -- keep 'em off anything metal, keep 'em from crossing each other (parallel). I used black plastic holders that bolt together around the wires with a little Allen-head bolt. You can get kits cheap that come with multiple 2-wire, 3-wire and 4-wire holders. If you zoom in a bit you can see how easy it is to keep the wires parallel/from crossing over each other -- from when the 5.0L was in the car.
Nice. What looms you use on your LS3?

80 coupe, A4 347, Bullet hyd roller, ported 11r 190's, ported Super Vic, HPI e85 carb, Liberty TKO500/4.30
1995gtCPE is offline  
post #21 of 32 Old 03-18-2017, 05:08 PM
Registered User
 
1995gtCPE's Avatar
 
Trader Feedback: (34)
Join Date: Nov 2002
Location: Ohio
Posts: 1,621
Quote:
Originally Posted by MellowRock View Post
nice! that pic was actually at edgewater. i've ran there several times along with Kil-Kare, Mt Park and Tri-State.
TT at edgewater tomorrow!

80 coupe, A4 347, Bullet hyd roller, ported 11r 190's, ported Super Vic, HPI e85 carb, Liberty TKO500/4.30
1995gtCPE is offline  
post #22 of 32 Old 03-18-2017, 05:11 PM
Registered User
 
1995gtCPE's Avatar
 
Trader Feedback: (34)
Join Date: Nov 2002
Location: Ohio
Posts: 1,621
Quote:
Originally Posted by MellowRock View Post
nice! that pic was actually at edgewater. i've ran there several times along with Kil-Kare, Mt Park and Tri-State.
My pal Mike and I were looking at your cars underside and talking about the high level of build quality. Then we saw you out on the track beating the balls off the thing! We were both like heck yea!

80 coupe, A4 347, Bullet hyd roller, ported 11r 190's, ported Super Vic, HPI e85 carb, Liberty TKO500/4.30
1995gtCPE is offline  
post #23 of 32 Old 03-18-2017, 05:15 PM
Registered User
 
Michael Yount's Avatar
 
Trader Feedback: (17)
Join Date: Apr 2002
Location: Charlotte, NC
Posts: 34,583
Quote:
Originally Posted by 1995gtCPE View Post
Nice. What looms you use on your LS3?
indeed -- the 'ultimate' looms, or "Looms? We don't need no stinkin' looms!"


Michael Yount - Charlotte, NC - 82 Volvo 242 - 6.2L; '15 Fit; '16 CrossTrek
Michael Yount is offline  
post #24 of 32 Old 03-18-2017, 05:21 PM
Registered User
 
1995gtCPE's Avatar
 
Trader Feedback: (34)
Join Date: Nov 2002
Location: Ohio
Posts: 1,621
That looks great!

80 coupe, A4 347, Bullet hyd roller, ported 11r 190's, ported Super Vic, HPI e85 carb, Liberty TKO500/4.30
1995gtCPE is offline  
post #25 of 32 Old 03-18-2017, 09:43 PM
Registered User
 
Trader Feedback: (6)
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Chesterfield, Mi
Posts: 339
This is how mine is setup. The locations on the cap aren't set in 100%, they are just plugged in to remember location. Never had an issue with cross fire induction this way with the routing.
Attached Images
File Type: jpg 20170318_155921.jpg (92.7 KB, 30 views)
MecGen likes this.
Daves8950LX is offline  
post #26 of 32 Old 03-19-2017, 09:22 AM
Registered User
 
TomR's Avatar
 
Trader Feedback: (2)
Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: Macon, GA
Posts: 4,659
Garage
Quote:
Originally Posted by Daves8950LX View Post
The metal separators have the wires bolted to a plastic separator. Nothing different than your wires touching the valve covers or any other piece of metal in the engnine bay. I'll take a pic of mine once I get them back together on Saturday.
Great. I was under the impression it was a metal holder from wire to wire, which is a terrible idea and has nothing to do with the "wrong type of wire". LOL


To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
89 LX. 363, single turbo S482 FMW, Super Vic EFI, Fox Lake Stage III heads, solid roller, glide. Holley HP EFI. (combo varies)
TomR is offline  
post #27 of 32 Old 03-19-2017, 12:41 PM
Corral Elite Member
 
Saleen414's Avatar
 
Trader Feedback: (2)
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Maple Valley Wa.
Posts: 1,239
Quote:
Originally Posted by TomR View Post

The problem I have with an UNGROUNDED metal spacer is if the wire punches through to the metal, it can cross talk to any other plug wire in the loom.
.
Ungrounded is the key. If it is grounded, then the worst that happenes is a missfire on that cylinder. And truth be told, if your wires are worn to the point of the spark going to ground through the wire seperator, then they are the wrong wires, no matter who made them. A new good quality wire will never have this problem. If it does, then it is not a quality wire. Like everything else, when the power goes up, the quality of every part used has to be up to the task or a failure will happen.

1989 Saleen 414 358cid SBF 2.8L Kenne Bell S/C
26 X 8.5 Hoosier
Best 1/4 mile time 8.623 @ 159.82 mph with a 1.34 60' (5.55 1/8th at 128)
Best 1/8 mile time 5.384 @ 130.75 mph with a 1.29 60'
2001 V-6 5 speed Mustang 189k miles and counting
08' Bullitt #4097 N/A 325 RWHP <<<<<FOR SALE!
Saleen414 is offline  
post #28 of 32 Old 03-19-2017, 02:41 PM
Registered User
 
Trader Feedback: (54)
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: nc
Posts: 2,546
I'm using the Taylor wire separators:

MecGen likes this.

3 Things that will chap your a$$
1. Woman
2. Dyno
3. Dragstrip
sradtodrag is offline  
post #29 of 32 Old 03-19-2017, 03:57 PM
Registered User
 
Trader Feedback: (0)
Join Date: Nov 2015
Posts: 31
Quote:
Originally Posted by Michael Yount View Post
Per Tom's excellent guidance above -- keep 'em off anything metal, keep 'em from crossing each other (parallel). I used black plastic holders that bolt together around the wires with a little Allen-head bolt. You can get kits cheap that come with multiple 2-wire, 3-wire and 4-wire holders. If you zoom in a bit you can see how easy it is to keep the wires parallel/from crossing over each other -- from when the 5.0L was in the car. These are like the OP's but without the mounting stands.

Ive actually read to keep 1 and 3 and then 6 and 5 from running parallel/next to each other.

Heres the source. I know its a boat site but still a ford engine.

http://www.mastercraft.com/teamtalk/showthread.php?t=55442
jpedi001 is offline  
post #30 of 32 Old 03-19-2017, 07:47 PM
Registered User
 
Trader Feedback: (7)
Join Date: Apr 2015
Location: AZ
Posts: 937
I've used black plastic wire ties on all of my show cars. When done correctly; they blend in nicely with the black wires. My buddy is an award winning hot rod builder who has had builds featured in various magazines. He uses wire ties on all of his builds unless the customer specifies differently. Just some personal input and to each their own.
nastynotchback1 likes this.

'95 Mustang GT
CPR 347
fasterthangas is offline  
post #31 of 32 Old 03-26-2017, 09:31 PM Thread Starter
Registered User
 
MecGen's Avatar
 
Trader Feedback: (0)
Join Date: Jun 2014
Location: Montreal, Canada
Posts: 333
Quote:
Originally Posted by MellowRock View Post
made for you, 5075611

Geeeeee zussss

Space my be the final frontier
but its made in a Hollywood basement.
RedHotChilliPeppers.
MecGen is offline  
post #32 of 32 Old 03-26-2017, 10:26 PM
Registered User
 
Stew_Magoo's Avatar
 
Trader Feedback: (16)
Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: Bayview, Wis
Posts: 689
Spark plug Zip Tie trick (inside)

1993 Mustang LX Coupe H/C/I 306/T5/IRS
1997 Lincoln Mark VIII
Stew_Magoo is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
Reply

Bookmarks

Quick Reply
Message:
Options

Register Now



In order to be able to post messages on the Ford Mustang Forums : Corral.net Mustang Forum forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name, your email address and other required details in the form below.

User Name:
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.

Password:


Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid email address for yourself.

Email Address:
OR

Log-in









Human Verification

In order to verify that you are a human and not a spam bot, please enter the answer into the following box below based on the instructions contained in the graphic.



Thread Tools
Show Printable Version Show Printable Version
Email this Page Email this Page
Display Modes
Linear Mode Linear Mode



Posting Rules  
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On

 
For the best viewing experience please update your browser to Google Chrome