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Old 04-28-2013, 11:00 PM   #1
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redneck 5.0 refurb

okay guys, some of you know, for those that dont... i sold the supercharger and injectors, traded the 4R70W for a TKO600 with dual disc, traded the megasquirt, wideband for a fresh Z-spec T5 with spec stg 3. im gonna put the HCI 347 in the 82 GT with a carb and a cheater kit along with the TKO. the coupe is gonna get the hi-mileage 89 5.0 i picked up the other day with the TFS spring upgrade and a little Isky camshaft, the systemax intake basic bolt-ons and a wet 175 shot and the T5.

oops almost forgot the refurb part.... i took the heads off the longblock so i could change the springs and get some fresh gaskets on it. also basically cleaning it up in a bucket of diesel fuel and slapping it all back together... same rings, same bearings. this is just something to goof around with, if i had a big shot plate i would let this baby have it! thats how WE do in th kuntry!
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Old 05-05-2013, 02:53 PM   #2
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okay, so the plan changed a little, this motor will be going in the 82 with the RPM and a holley double pumper... the diesel clean up is done, so i sterted tearing the heads down and walking thru the TFS spring upgrade, pulled the old springs an junk off...

Picture 091 by boostdcoupe, on Flickr
lapped the valves in with a little lapping compound and a drill... LOL!

Picture 092 by boostdcoupe, on Flickr

Picture 093 by boostdcoupe, on Flickr
put the new stem seals on...

Picture 090 by boostdcoupe, on Flickr
checked the installed heigth, selected the correct shims and installed the springs...

Picture 088 by boostdcoupe, on Flickr
tailgate head rebuild done... LOL.

Picture 094 by boostdcoupe, on Flickr
i guess this isnt the typical "build" thread around here, but sometimes we need to get a little ghetto!
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Old 05-08-2013, 11:08 AM   #3
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Looks good, sounds like its going to be a fun and simple build.
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Old 05-08-2013, 11:14 AM   #4
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Nothing wrong with that. I cut valve reliefs in an 86 flat top engine with a dremel so I could use heads and a cam. Worked fine.

Its all about having fun.

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Old 05-08-2013, 11:15 AM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mutang357 View Post
Looks good, sounds like its going to be a fun and simple build.
yeah, i knew it wouldnt be real popular here... but, in the last few months, ive been missing the simpler stuff... and this is a good example of the "cheapo" builds i used to do. i remember stripping motors down to a shortblock and washing them on the front porch with the water hose and a box of tide LOL. the funny thing is, these kinds of builds always seem to last forever, but if they DID break, its just a trip to the J/Y for parts.
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Old 05-09-2013, 02:05 PM   #6
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Don't sweat it man, cheap is more fun.... Why spend thousands upon thousands on something you're going to purposely run the nutsack off of, keep it cheap, keep it fun so it's not a jackstand queen..... I have less than $5k in my whole car and makes a solid 450hp and i drive it all the time......

Tuned with fuel pressure and hopes and dreams running ebay china parts.


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Old 05-09-2013, 05:45 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Papa Cosmos View Post
Nothing wrong with that. I cut valve reliefs in an 86 flat top engine with a dremel so I could use heads and a cam. Worked fine.

Its all about having fun.

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Quote:
Originally Posted by MJs89GT View Post
Don't sweat it man, cheap is more fun.... Why spend thousands upon thousands on something you're going to purposely run the nutsack off of, keep it cheap, keep it fun so it's not a jackstand queen..... I have less than $5k in my whole car and makes a solid 450hp and i drive it all the time......

Tuned with fuel pressure and hopes and dreams running ebay china parts.


HATERS BE DAMNED!!!! GET SUM!!!
yup, the coupe was getting to the point of "race car", i think i stepped away from the brink just in time. time to have fun with two.
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Old 08-25-2013, 08:59 PM   #8
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i might have an issue, i noticed when i was tightening the rockers down there was slack/clearance, didnt get a measurement on how much (it was late and i was tired/disgusted). now upon further examination i realized the stock pushrods are 6.272", when i checked the cam info, it says a 6.281" pushrod is required. i guess i should have done a little more research. so the difference between pushrods is .009 multiply that time the 1.6 rocker ratio and the new push rods should tighten me up by .0114 as long as the geometry is correct... right? or am i still tired and not thinking clearly.

cam card...
Isky Timing Chart
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Old 08-25-2013, 09:30 PM   #9
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Buy, or make a pushrod length checker, borrow one from someone. Check and make sure you have the right length, only way to know for sure.
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Old 08-25-2013, 09:37 PM   #10
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Quote:
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Buy, or make a pushrod length checker, borrow one from someone. Check and make sure you have the right length, only way to know for sure.
thanks papa... im gonna get some sleep, maybe i will think more clearly.
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Old 08-26-2013, 04:18 PM   #11
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performance products is supposed to have more length checkers wedensday.

this is CRAZY! ive never had to get custom pushrods for a sbf hyd roller.

the tech guy at Isky said that my cam is a smaller base circle, which of cource, requires longer pushrods... ggrrrr. oh well, it could be worse i guess.
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Old 08-30-2013, 01:23 PM   #12
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well... it turns out the info i had on stock hyd roller pushrods being 6.272 is INCORRECT. i just measured the ones in my car and they measure 6.252. after lunch im gonna get the length checker out and see what i need, hopefully i can get this behind me.

my measurement of 6.252 was from tip to tip (with a little loss from the oil passage), maybe the 6.272 i saw was from a balled end to a balled end
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Old 08-30-2013, 02:32 PM   #13
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Stock pushrod specs, don't think .02 will make a difference.
Specifications:
Pushrod Material - Steel
Tubing Diameter - 5/16" (0.312)
Top/Bottom Tip Style - Ball
Top/Bottom Tip Diameter - 5/16" (0.312)
Intake Length - 6.272"
Exhaust Length - 6.272"
None Tapered
Press fit tip
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Old 08-30-2013, 02:43 PM   #14
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Quote:
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Stock pushrod specs, don't think .02 will make a difference.
Specifications:
Pushrod Material - Steel
Tubing Diameter - 5/16" (0.312)
Top/Bottom Tip Style - Ball
Top/Bottom Tip Diameter - 5/16" (0.312)
Intake Length - 6.272"
Exhaust Length - 6.272"
None Tapered
Press fit tip
well... it depends on the method of measuring from what ive read. ive got a comp 7701 pushrod length checker which is 5.800 completely closed and the way it works, every rotation out equals .050... according to this checker, the stock pushrods are 6.252, not the 6.272 ive found on ford's information... the only thing i can figure is theyre measuring different ways. either way about it, if im understanding this correctly, there needs to be between .020-.060 preload in the lifters. with the stock pushrods i have about .020 clearance, so if im trying to attain around .040 preload (half the range), i need pushrods .060 longer than stock, which would be 6.332 (using fords numbers) or 6.310 (using comps numbers)...?

COMP CamsŪ - Pushrods
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Old 08-30-2013, 02:50 PM   #15
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i think im just gonna get some 6.300, this should take up the clearance and put me in the ball park on the preload.
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Old 08-30-2013, 03:12 PM   #16
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I read your last post and not why you were asking.

You had slack between the pushrod when you set the rocker arm with the lifter all the way down in its bore?
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Old 08-30-2013, 03:28 PM   #17
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I read your last post and not why you were asking.

You had slack between the pushrod when you set the rocker arm with the lifter all the way down in its bore?
yeah the cam is on its base circle and the rocker bolted down it had slack, the tech at isky said the cam has a smaller base circle than stock. next time it will be an "almighty B"! lol... never had to change anything with the FMS or lunati hyd roller cams ive used in the past.
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