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Old 03-30-2013, 04:38 PM   #1
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Cylinder 5 running lean

I'm having an issue with cylinder 5 running lean on my mustang. I've chaecked wiring smoke tested it for vacuum leaks done compression tests. Also checked everything electrical I can possibly test and swapped ECM with another A9L. I have even put a new injector in the number 5 spot can't get ti to richen up plug stays white with just a hint of color. This is making my bank 2 O2 read lean so it fattens up the fuel on bank 2 and 6,7&8 run rich. I can't find anything mechanically or electrically that could be causing this. Anyone ever had a similar issue with just one cylinder on one bank running lean? My combo is as follows. If I left anything out just ask.

89 GT with a 347 11.0:1 compression, RHS 215cc aluminum heads, Comp XFI 236-hr14 cam, Performer RPM2 intake 70mm TB, PMAS 95MM Velocity MAF, all Comp valvetrain, MSD 6AL2 ignition and MSD distributor, MAC 1 3/4" primary long tubes with full MAC 3' exhaust 42LB Ford injectors, Professional Products fuel rails and regulator 255lph Walbro in-tank pump. Tweecer RT using Binary Editor and EEC Analyzer software.
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Old 03-31-2013, 01:03 AM   #2
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you can hear it clicking on when its running?
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Old 03-31-2013, 02:46 AM   #3
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If you swapped the injector with the same result, are you certain the injector is actually firing? Perhaps there is a problem with the wiring or connector that isn't allowing that particular injector to open. I would check it with a test light.
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Old 03-31-2013, 10:29 AM   #4
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Yep, I would recheck the wiring too
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Old 03-31-2013, 10:35 AM   #5
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^+3
Maybe you have a buddy who has or has access to an ocilloscope? This way you can see if the signal is falling out or whats going on.

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Old 03-31-2013, 11:17 AM   #6
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I know the injector is firing tested with mood light listened to it with a stethoscope and used an injector tester to do a pressure drop test. I've checked and rechecked wiring. I even made made my fuel rails one continuous loop thinking the since the rail was dead heading at number 5 it was causing an issue. That made it a little better I could run in open loop and bank 2 wouldn't stay pegged lean now it reads like .040 volts less then bank 1 while cruising but it does jump around a lot more than bank 1. My lambses will be 14-16ish on bank 1 and 12-14ish on bank 2 when in closed loop. All other plugs are running way richer when reading them number 5 stays white.


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Old 03-31-2013, 01:48 PM   #7
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Well darn. I'm racking my brain, and unless you missed a vacuum leak that only affects that one cylinder, I have nothing. When you checked with the noid light, did you leave the injector connected and back probe the connector? The only thing I can think of in that case is perhaps the terminal has pulled out of the plastic connector giving you a positive result with the noid light while not actually making good contact with the injector itself. You said you checked everything electrical. Does that include the number 2 pin on the black engine harness (salt and pepper shaker) connector? (See bottom diagram on this page: Fuel Injection Technical Library Wiring Harnesses)
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Old 03-31-2013, 03:15 PM   #8
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I have checked from ECM connector through the salt and pepper connectors to the injector connectors I know the terminal isn't backed out I triple checked that yesterday. I even had my left valve cover off when I was smoke testing it using a mirror and flashlight to look at the intake gasket from below in the valley no smoke coming out and made sure both valves were closed. No leaks except very small ones at my throttle shaft seals. I've been an automotive tech for over 10 years and work with guys that have been doing it for over 30 and have talked to professional products and edelbrock about it and they were no help. Everything mechanically and electrically checks. I always have the most screwed up problems.


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Old 03-31-2013, 04:08 PM   #9
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Is there a misfire?

have you performed a cylinder balance test?
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Old 03-31-2013, 04:28 PM   #10
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No misfire car runs strong but I can't tune it properly with this much imbalance between banks. Compression on test I did on 5 & 6 both cylinders were at 180 cranking I didn't do a running test or leak down because if it was low on compression it would show rich on the plug. Almost ready to say screw it and switch to a carb.


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Old 03-31-2013, 04:35 PM   #11
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Only other thing I can come up with is I have a fuel volume issue. It's a brand new walbro gss340 in tank pump new filter but I'm still running the stock hard lines from tank to where it hooks to the rails. Pressure stays good. I drove around with my mechanical gauge on it for a few miles. But haven't since I put the crossover line on the front of my rail.


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Old 03-31-2013, 05:05 PM   #12
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The cylinder balance test is done with the engine running. It's part of the "advanced" KOER diagnostic mode.

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Originally Posted by slartybartfast View Post
I have even put a new injector in the number 5 spot can't get ti to richen up plug stays white with just a hint of color. This is making my bank 2 O2 read lean so it fattens up the fuel on bank 2 and 6,7&8 run rich
White with a hint of gray or brown is usually how the plugs should look after mixed driving. What do the other seven look like? Brown? Black? Have you tried swapping the O2 sensors between banks? How about the ignition?

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1.) ....now it reads like .040 volts less then bank 1 while cruising but it does jump around a lot more than bank 1.

2.) My lambses will be 14-16ish on bank 1 and 12-14ish on bank 2 when in closed loop.
1.) When is it jumping around? At idle? Cruise? WOT?

2.) Are you using a wideband to determine your AFR, or is that based on the narrowband voltages?
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Old 03-31-2013, 05:27 PM   #13
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The plugs are all brownish black except number 5 the ceramic is white with just a barely noticeable small spot of brown. It's not glazed likes it over heating. I can look at my distributor cap and see the difference in the ignition event. All the other terminals are kind of scorched looking but the #5 terminal is pretty clean small burn marks on it the others are really crusty now and the cap is only got about 800 miles on it. I've put in new o2 sensors even went as far as using a potentiometer hooked to the signal wires to the ECM and data logging with a volt meter hooked up to verify voltage being sent is what's being seen by the ECM. I use a wideband just put a new sensor in about a month ago and put a bung on my bank 2 side so I can switch sides with it. The bank 2 hego moves around when I have it in open loop bank 1 will be reading .850-.920 and bank 2 will be reading .700-.900 and this is at steady cruise and it will dip further sometimes. It's always reading slightly leaner than bank 1.


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Old 03-31-2013, 06:14 PM   #14
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do the balance test and post results.

If nonething turns up, and you have no misfire, you could have an exuast leak, or long tube headers or alot of things. or there is no problem.

so do the test first.
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Old 03-31-2013, 07:20 PM   #15
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Did the cylinder balance test first pass no problems second pass showed number 6 third pass showed 7,6,5,3,2,&1
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Old 03-31-2013, 11:22 PM   #16
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Geese, I'm not coming up with anything beyond what you have done...

Once you swap injectors and don't get a change? It's all electrical beyond that...
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Old 04-01-2013, 08:13 AM   #17
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I'm going to say screw it and pull my lower intake and replace the gaskets. Readjust all my valves, it's a strange problem.


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Old 04-01-2013, 10:38 AM   #18
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6 very low contributing cylinders, you def have a serious problem.

let us know how it turns out after your repairs.
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Old 04-05-2013, 07:01 PM   #19
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Finally got my lower intake off and I think I've found the problem. Gaskets were sealed very well. My lifters are staying pumped up on just about all valves. So no matter how I adjusted the valves they were being kept slightly open. I can turn the engine over and get the valves in the open position and it takes about a minute for the plugger to bleed down. Putting a new set in tomorrow.


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Old 04-05-2013, 07:30 PM   #20
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you have the correct pushrods?
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Old 04-05-2013, 07:59 PM   #21
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It's all adjustable valvetrain comp ultra pro magnum rockers and 7/16" screwing studs adjustable guide plates etc all comp valve train down to the hardened pushrods.


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Old 04-18-2013, 08:46 PM   #22
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Got the new lifters installed it made a little difference but didn't fix it. I put a new set of injectors in seems to be better but I've been fooled before. I've got to drive it a bit more and pull the plugs and see what's going on now. Fuel trims seem to be way more in line with each bank than before except at idle which I assume and hope is my o2 getting cold and not reading properly.


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