Camshaft Break In Advice

[skeet_32]

Im getting ready to break in my new FLAT TAPPET cam and wanted all the positive advice I could possible get. I've been reading as much as I can and different threads and articles seem to be all over the place when giving advice. For example do I really need to remove the inner valve spring? Also does the oil have to be changed after the first 20 minutes of break in? Basically what is the best way to go about doing this without causing any harm to my cam? So if anyone has a method that has kept their cams going strong please let me know.

[87slutstang]

i don't know how but it doesn't hurt to do a few extra precautions.

[10SECFox]

Follow the cam makers directions- you can even call the manufacturers tech line and get some convincing advice to follow their procedures. I recently broke in a Lunati solid flat cam - added break-in lube(ZDDP), removed inner valve spring, varied rpm 2000-2500 for 20 mins,changed oil and filter. - Have made about 15 track runs and a few street miles since last August. No problems. By the way, what cam are you running?

[Michael Yount]

One word - roller.

[skeet_32]

Im running a Lunati Voodoo 61005. Its a hydraulic flat tappet. Oh and Michael Yount, let me know when you want to donate the money for the roller set up. Other than thanks for your great advice "roller". Anyone else have any good tips/advice.

[10SECFox]

Hey, X2 on the the great advice "roller"= $$$$$$$. I'm very happy with my budget basic build running 7.5's at 93mph. Goodluck with your build and keep us posted on progress!

[skeet_32]

10SecFox what oil did you use in your break in. Im planning on using Rotella 15w40 but I feel that is just a waste after 20 minutes of use.

[FBM50]

How old is this engine that it's not a factory roller?

In all truthfulness, one of my favorite street cam setups is using an 87 SD roller cam with 1.7 roller rockers.

The cam can be found very cheap like free -$20

The lifters can be found for free as well.

I wouldn't pay more than $75-$100 for a great set of used 1.7 roller rockers.

So for $100-$125 you can have a nice reliable set up that doesn't take a genius to tune.

Unless you got your flat tappet cam and lifters for free, you really can't beat the price or bang 4 the buck on that roller setup.


Since you are flat tappet, follow the manufacturer's instructions to the letter.

You can also use Rotella oil for diesel engines. It contains the zinc additive that you'll need. If not, you will need to run a zinc additive with your preferred oil.

[Michael Yount]

Admittedly jerking your chain a bit - been on a planet for more than a few years and have discovered that almost always I would've been better off being more patient, saving a few more dollars and then building 'a better mousetrap'.

Your cam manufacturer will provide details on break in procedure -- 10secfox laid it out for you above. Less spring pressure and the proper lube increases the odds that you won't wipe a lobe and/or damage the lifter face until the two surfaces have come to know one another properly. Metal has been know to be lost during that courtship - that's the reason the manufacturers recommend replacing the oil/filter afterwards. It's good standard procedure to replace the oil/filter after the first couple of runs/thermal cycles anyway since there is ALWAYS engine machining/construction debris inside no matter how careful one is.

It's also really important to take a lot of care that everything else is working correctly -- all lines tight, gaskets sealing properly, etc. -- so that when you do fire it up, you don't have to shut it down before the 20 minutes to deal with a leaking hose, fuel line, carb, etc. Have a timing light hooked up so you can get the timing decent for the startup/run-in. Do everything you can to be sure everything else is good to go before you fire it. Lastly - I always recommend firing it up fully muffled so you can HEAR what's going on with the engine when you're running it in.

And there's still a chance you'll lose a lobe. Which was the reason for the roller council. Do yourself a favor on the next build -- there are lots of good reasons that flat tappets went away as an OEM option.

[Diggerauditor]

Make sure you lube the cam and lifters well before start up. I use a non-detergent oil for breaking in an engine, I'm old school. I start the engine, time it close and set the engine so it runs about 2000 rpm for 45 min. Done and done. Then I change the oil. Never had a problem. Others do things diff so it's mainly personal preference. That's for a Flat Tappet cam. Haven't done a roller yet but it's coming soon.

[Trey LePark]

When I installed my Crane Fireball cam back in the late 80's I used the Crane procedures and never had any problems. I just read their updated procedures and except for forbidding the use of SL or SM oils, they haven't changed much. NO SYNTHETICS on break in.

http://cranecams.com/uploads/breakin/548e.pdf