EEC Codes and rough idle - Ford Mustang Forums : Corral.net Mustang Forum

 
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post #1 of 19 Old 06-13-2012, 08:32 PM Thread Starter
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EEC Codes and rough idle

Hey guys,

My 93 LX 5.0 with 130k miles on it has been idling poor lately. Stalls out after first start-up and idles very rough after. Did a tune-up, cleaned IAC valve, throttle body, air filter and inlet. No change in performance.

Ran KOEO test 2 times.

1st time i let the car warm up a few minutes and got:

24 (Intake Air charge temp sensor or vane air temp sensor out of range)
81 (Air Diverter solenoid fault, intake air control circuit faul, air injection diverter)
34 (EGR valve not opening properly)
10 (finish code)
34

2nd time after a longer warm up (10 minutes after running first KOEO test) I got codes:

34
10
34

2 questions.
1. Would not letting the car warm up enough give you code 24 & 81

2. to fix code 34 do i need just a new Egr Valve Position Sensor:
1986-93 Mustang 5.0L Egr Valve Position Sensor at LRS - Free Shipping!
or
EGR Valve1986-93 Mustang Egr Valve for 5.0L at LRS - Free Shipping!
or
Egr Valve Vacuum Control Solenoid1986-93 Mustang 5.0L Egr Valve Vacuum Control Solenoid at LRS - Free Shipping!


Thanks,
Anthony

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post #2 of 19 Old 06-13-2012, 11:31 PM
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get ER codes, and do cylinder balance test.

always best to replace EGR valve and position sensor together.


89 GT gr-40, KB2200(10psi), tweecer R/T,LC-1, 22gal cell, w/tailpipes.
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post #3 of 19 Old 06-14-2012, 02:52 PM
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1. No.
2. Agree with Indy.

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post #4 of 19 Old 06-15-2012, 08:06 AM
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Most obvious thing, vacuum leak from egr or somewhere.Does it sometimes idle high when warm?
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post #5 of 19 Old 06-15-2012, 12:36 PM Thread Starter
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does not idle high when warm. Seems to idle a little better after car has been driven and I stop at a light/sign.
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post #6 of 19 Old 06-17-2012, 12:00 AM
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I can only really help with the code 34.

I recently failed an emission test because of high NOX and a code reader nailed it to EGR problems.

Repacing the EGR vacuum solenoid got rid of the code 34.
I was also getting a code 31 for the EGR position sensor at first and that code would disappear so I replaced that sensor anyway.

Passed the next e-test bigtime and the car doesn't seem to be using as much gas.

Make sure your EGR valve is still good and holds vacuum and the vacuum lines for the EGR are good.
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post #7 of 19 Old 06-17-2012, 01:35 AM
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replacing both, I think that covered that.

89 GT gr-40, KB2200(10psi), tweecer R/T,LC-1, 22gal cell, w/tailpipes.
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post #8 of 19 Old 06-17-2012, 02:09 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by indy2000 View Post
replacing both, I think that covered that.
you didn't mention replacing the EGR vacuum solenoid.
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post #9 of 19 Old 06-23-2012, 05:10 PM Thread Starter
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Hey guys I finally got back to working on my car. I replaced Egr valve, position sensor & vacuum solenoid and still have a poor idle.

New codes are as follows:
KOEO
34
10
11

KOER
12
34
41
91

Grabbed vacuum lines and idle has not changed(looking for broken line)

Before I order new O2 sensors I wanted your opinion

Thanks
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post #10 of 19 Old 06-23-2012, 08:35 PM
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there is no 10, and you shouldn't get a 11, for the codes you got.

try running the test again.


89 GT gr-40, KB2200(10psi), tweecer R/T,LC-1, 22gal cell, w/tailpipes.
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post #11 of 19 Old 06-23-2012, 09:14 PM
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If you are still getting code 34 check and see if the EGR valve is holding vacuum as well as the vacuum lines to the EGR valve.

I reused my original EGR valve because it is in good condition however the Standard Motor Products EGR position sensor I bought came with a thin pos rubber o-ring that does not fit the sensor properly.

Even with the o-ring positioned properly it caused a vacuum leak in the EGR valve.
I reused the original Ford o-ring gasket that fits perfectly and causes no vacuum leak in the EGR valve.

Something to watch out for and I think I read some aftermarket EGR valves are of poor quality and if it doesn't seal at idle it will idle like crap.

Did you disconnect the battery to erase the codes after installing the new parts?
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post #12 of 19 Old 07-01-2012, 08:32 PM Thread Starter
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Update:

Replaced PCV valve, AIC valve ( used one in my garage), checked for vacuum lines damaged/off.

Idel has improved a lot

This got rid of code 34, however after re-running codes I got

KOEO: 81

KOEO: 41 & 91

Please help!
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post #13 of 19 Old 07-01-2012, 09:37 PM
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code 10 is a transfer code going from one check to another
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post #14 of 19 Old 07-03-2012, 11:12 AM Thread Starter
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KOEO: 81

KOEO: 41 & 91

Do you think its possibly a bad TAD solenoid or do you think its still a vacuum leak?
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post #15 of 19 Old 07-27-2012, 07:52 AM Thread Starter
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Update 7/27

I'm still down to the following codes:

KOEO: 81

KOEO: 41 & 91

Do you think its possibly a bad TAD solenoid or do you think its still a vacuum leak?

Any help appreciated before I throw more parts at it!
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post #16 of 19 Old 08-19-2012, 07:46 PM Thread Starter
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Update:

I replaced both the TAD & TAB sensors.

KOEO test has no codes anymore.

KOER gives codes 41 & 91, any thoughts?????

Idles fine, runs good, I need to clear these codes for emissions.
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post #17 of 19 Old 08-20-2012, 09:39 PM Thread Starter
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Finally found a broken vacuum line under the upper intake going to the charcoal canister.

Any tips on getting the clamp off the under side of the upper intake port without removing the intake?
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post #18 of 19 Old 08-20-2012, 11:52 PM
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finger tips, or surgical clamps that look like scissors.

89 GT gr-40, KB2200(10psi), tweecer R/T,LC-1, 22gal cell, w/tailpipes.
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post #19 of 19 Old 08-21-2012, 07:53 AM
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x2

Glad you found the culprit.

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