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Old 06-11-2011, 08:47 PM   #1
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Carb tuning help, electric choke install help

Alright guys, got my 670 street avenger on the car today with new fuel lines and a few other upgrades.



First thing first, as soon as I got it on the car and primed the fuel system and checked for leaks. All was good. turned the car over and it starts up pretty easily even though the choke is not plugged in to pwer yet. it studders a bit and starts to clean out the air bubbles in the fuel lines and starts idling pretty good at around 800-900rpm. Then once it clears out good, the idle starts slowly creeping up to about 1700rpm and holds steady there. Even after the car is warmed up it still idles high as piss! Also, its definately running rich as hell! smells almost like raw gasoline coming out the exhaust pipes with smoke, so strong it almost chokes you out. But it got too late to mess with now, so I figured I would consult the experts.



Also, when hooking up the electric choke, Holley suggests hooking up the positive side of the choke to a power source that is only on when the car is running. So what would be my best option for this? DO I need to look for something in the fuse box and run a long wire from there. Or could I do something as simple as tap into something on the ditributor or my MSD 6AL box?

Here is a quick pic I took before it got too dark outside.
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Old 06-11-2011, 10:35 PM   #2
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If your choke is not wired, the choke stays on, not opening and that's why your idle is high and it's running too rich. Don't run it like that.
Wire it from something in the fuse box, not a big deal.
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Old 06-11-2011, 11:46 PM   #3
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I dont think the choke is wide open, the flap on top of the carb is closed.

What do most of you guys run your choke off of? I guess I need to just get a test light and find a key activated 12v source?
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Old 06-11-2011, 11:58 PM   #4
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i've got this bookmarked....
Installing Automatic Choke on a Holley Carburetor
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Old 06-12-2011, 01:39 PM   #5
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Well, I got the choke hooked up to a key activated 12v power source...No change at all in idle or the rich condition. Im idling at about 1800rpm...

I tried letting the car idle for a good 3-4 minutes, the operating temps on the guage was showing 140-150 when I shut it down, also we are in 91 degree heat today.

Also, I started the car and checks the power source again at the choke, and im definately getting power to the choke. Also I tried opening the choke blade manually with my hand while the car is idling and still no change at all in the idle.
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Old 06-12-2011, 02:16 PM   #6
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You have to set the choke, and it has to have the throttle move to release. If you start the car cold, and let it idle, itll idle at your preset high speed idle speed forever,
until you blipp the throttle.
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Old 06-12-2011, 03:11 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kim View Post
You have to set the choke, and it has to have the throttle move to release. If you start the car cold, and let it idle, itll idle at your preset high speed idle speed forever,
until you blipp the throttle.
I have tried that, still doesnt cure the problem. When I blipp the throttle the ilde increase to about 2200rpm and holds steady.
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Old 06-12-2011, 03:26 PM   #8
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Alright, so I think my problem is my 12v source for the choke. Been doing some reading and found a tiny writing note in the manual for my carb. It says NOT to use the ignition power wire cause it only supplies 7-9 volts while the engine is running and it will cause the choke not to operate correctly.



So im going to trace out another 12v source, kinda hard to do on this car though since most of the elctronics are comletely gone and alot of spare wiring is still tucked under the dash.



I hate wiring, im so terrible at it...Im half tempted to run a hot 12v wire directly off the battery into a switch and then into the choke. Then I would just have to remember to flip that switch when I start the car.
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Old 06-12-2011, 05:17 PM   #9
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I don't know what cam you are running, but I doubt it needs to idle at 1800 rpm to stay alive. Disconnect the choke wire, turn the choke housing to max lean and tighten it back down, then find the vacuum leak.
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Old 06-12-2011, 06:42 PM   #10
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Tried that...no change in idle speed. 1800 rpm idle even if I blipp the throttle.

No vacume leaks either...the only vacume line I have is for my brake booster. all the other ones are capped off.

I even tried adjusting the idle screw to see if it was all jacked up and crazy, no change at all in the operation.

SInce my car is a manual tranny, do I need to buy the ford kick down kick for the carb? My previous carb didnt have that stuff on it...
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Old 06-12-2011, 07:14 PM   #11
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carb

Seriously, your in North Carolina, your going to need a choke about 5 times in a year!
Flip the carb upside down and see how far the throttle blades are open, close them until .020 of the transfer slot is exposed (transfer slot will create a very small square when set correctly)
The air mixture screws on the sides of the meetering block set at 1.5 turns out (meaning turn them all the way in then back them out 1.5 turns)
Make sure that all vacuum ports on the carb are blocked off and the port on the intake manifold.
I agree with the earlier statement about finding your vacume leak. (could be the base plate if the intake is an edelbrock with square bore and spread bore bolt patterns)
Take the choke out of the equation, disconnect it electronically and mechanically.
Problem solved!
On cold days, pump it twice and start it up!
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Old 06-12-2011, 09:44 PM   #12
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Finally got it figured it out...

Throttle linkage was too tight and was holding open the primaries slightly too much. Adjust my linkage at the carb and got her running smooth at idle now. A solid 700-800rpm, nice and smooth and no surging.

Im still running rich at idle, which can be addressed at a later date now that I got it running alot better.

As for the choke, I left it hooked up electronically and basically just loosened the screws and turned it to the lowest possible setting so its bassicaly not there.

My only problem per say right now is a very slight hesitation at very low rpm when taking off in 1st from a dead stop. its very minimal and only happens for a millisecond, otherwise everything is running great.

I will say, my car runs SO much smoother now. Before with the 570cfm carb the exhaust was loud as hell, really a head turning car at a stop light or gas station. Now the idle is really smooth, low tone and sounds nice and healthy. Im even more happy now that I found a air cleaner I can fit under my stock hood and flows 1150cfm and supports up to 700hp. This really relieve pressure about finding a hood very soon. So now I can wait till Mustang week and get me a CHampion hood from the dealer on the spot for $270
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