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Old 04-19-2010, 03:35 PM   #1
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302 PUSHROD LENGTH/VALVE TRAIN NOISE

I JUST INSTALLED A 93 COBRA MOTOR IN MY 92 HATCH AND AM HAVING TROUBLE WITH A LOT OF VALVE TRAIN NOISE AND I'M THINKING THE PUSHRODS ARE TOO SHORT. THE MOTOR WAS ASSEMBLED WHEN I BOUGHT IT SO IM NOT SURE OF THE LIFTERS OR PUSHRODS THAT ARE IN IT BUT IT DOES HAVE TRUE GT40 HEADS WITH CRANE PEDESTAL MOUNT ROLLER ROCKERS, AND AND E CAM.

ANY INPUT WOULD BE HELPFUL BECAUSE RIGHT NOW IM STUCK!!
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Old 04-21-2010, 11:49 AM   #2
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so i took my old rockers and pushrods and put them on the new engine and i still have the same sewing machine noise up top is it possible the lifters the guy has in the motor could be bad, has anyone had an issue like this and have any ideas. The motor did sit for awhile without being run but the oil pressure is good and its getting oil up top.

any info would help

thanks,
tom
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Old 04-21-2010, 11:54 AM   #3
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Tom - the 'adjustment' to these valve trains IS pushrod length. It's not uncommon at all that when changes are made - even just freshening up head gaskets and changing the cam - that people find that the stock pushrods are too short. My current set up (AFR heads, mild custom cam, 1.7 Cobra rockers, etc.) couldn't use the stock pushrods. Had to move slightly longer to 6.300" units -- quiet as stock. But could barely reach zero lash with the stock 6.258" units.

Get an adjustable length checker pushrod and measure - you may have to move up to the 6.3's.....
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Old 04-21-2010, 12:21 PM   #4
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when i pulled it apart last night i turned the motor over where number 1 cylinder was on base circle and both valves were closed and pulled the rockers off. I let it sit for a few and bolted them down by hand until i had no lash and got only about a 1/4 to 1/2 turn until it was tight, which i thought was the proper way to preload the lifters. I then went down all the passenger side and did the same thing and still sounded bad when i started it back up. Could it still be the pushrods you think or maybe the lifters aren't bleeding down properly and acting as solid ones? Appreciate the input

thanks
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Old 04-21-2010, 02:28 PM   #5
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how do you tell if you need shorter pushrods
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Old 04-21-2010, 02:42 PM   #6
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I've been told that 1/2 to 3/4 turn if what you want for street and 1/4 to 1/2 turn is for racing application. Where is the rocker making contact with the tip of the valve stem ?
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Old 04-21-2010, 03:15 PM   #7
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If it takes a 1/4 turn or less (or you can't reach zero lash) then it's going to be noisy and your pushrods are too short.

Tom - describe IN DETAIL how you found zero lash. It's from that point that the torquing/counting starts -- and if that point is not found correctly, the rest of the process is thrown off.
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Old 04-21-2010, 03:30 PM   #8
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i made sure that both valves were all the way closed on the number one cylinder by watching the exhaust close and kept turning till the intake closed all the way. Then i removed the 1.7 crane rockers and let it sit for about five minutes, I put the rockers back on and hand tightened them with the pushrod in my hand until it would not move up or down(zero lash/or what i think to be). Then i tightened the rocker bolt until it was tight about 1/4 to half a turn but closer to a half on both of the valves. Then i did the same with the rest of them on that side of the motor and they seemed ok
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Old 04-22-2010, 07:23 AM   #9
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When you were getting to zero lash - you tightened the rocker bolt until it just barely closed the gap on both sides, right?
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Old 04-22-2010, 09:34 AM   #10
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I didn't do the driver side yet because i ran out of time and the passenger side all checked out fine so i figured the drivers side would as well. The pushrods still spin by hand relatively easy after you turn the motor over but not on intial tightening? I'm gonna try switching the lifters tonight because the ones that are in the new motor i have, have been sitting for over a year i found out after talking to the guy i bought it from last night.
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