TFI THICK FILM IGNITION Module relocation - Ford Mustang Forums : Corral.net Mustang Forum

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post #1 of 120 Old 05-25-2009, 08:02 PM Thread Starter
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TFI THICK FILM IGNITION Module relocation

My TFI has started the intermittent "surprise - not going to run the car for a few seconds" on me. Decided I'd go to the trouble to remote mount it to remove it from the heat/vibration which ultimately kills them. Thought ya'll might find the process helpful complete with pics.

Found the heat sink on a 94 V6 Cougar at the pick and pull : You have to remove a few fins for the Stang TFI module to be wired up - you'll see why in a second.

Cleaned up the heat sink and bought a new TFI for the car - mounted it to the sink using the proper heat transfer paste that comes with the new module. You can see it here with a piece of the wiring harness I'm building: http://forums.corral.net/photopost/s...7&ppuser=30684 You can see the female connector attaching to the TFI, as well as the shielded wire that will run to the distributor - you can see the male connector that will plug into the distributor. You can also see the bare pigtail that forms part of the shielded wire -- the pigtail will go to ground. It will take three of these to run all 3 connections to the dizzy.

Here's a few shots of the shielded wire being constructed. Start with your wire (14 ga) run from the TFI to the dizzy. Wrap the outside of the insulated wire with a bare wire leaving a pigtail of the bare wire hanging out so you can ground it. Then wrap the whole thing with aluminum foil; then cover all of it with shrink wrap. Now the whole wire is surrounded by a metallic grounded shield so it can't pick up any stray signal that might throw the ignition off kilter.

http://forums.corral.net/photopost/s...4&ppuser=30684
http://forums.corral.net/photopost/s...5&ppuser=30684
http://forums.corral.net/photopost/s...6&ppuser=30684

Here's the sink with TFI mounted, and all three wires hooked up to it. Eventually, all three wires will be shielded all the way to the dizzy, and bound together in factory style black plastic loom.

http://forums.corral.net/photopost/s...8&ppuser=30684

I'll mount the sink/TFI on the fenderwell inside the 'cold air box' where my air filter resides -- coolest spot under the hood, and out of the way of water. Of course, I'll also have to relocate/extend the factory harness/plug so it can reach to the new TFI location and plug-in.

I'll keep posting pics as I make progress.

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Michael Yount - Charlotte, NC - 82 Volvo 242 - 6.2L; '15 Fit; '16 CrossTrek

Last edited by Michael Yount; 05-30-2009 at 06:27 PM.
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post #2 of 120 Old 05-25-2009, 08:20 PM
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Im glad someone is trying this.I always wanted to try this but my tfi hasent gone out yet.


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post #3 of 120 Old 05-25-2009, 08:31 PM
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Good writeup. I'm glad I have a 95 though.

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post #4 of 120 Old 05-25-2009, 09:24 PM
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Im glad someone is trying this.I always wanted to try this but my tfi hasent gone out yet.
SHoooooosh! You may have just jinxed yourself

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post #5 of 120 Old 05-25-2009, 09:27 PM
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This is good though, as I had mentioned the TFI relocation in the 94-95 section. I had thought there was a kit for the Fox's somewhere.

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post #6 of 120 Old 05-25-2009, 09:40 PM
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Can I swap a dizzy and remote module from a 94/95 into the Fox 5.0 that I'm useing for my Cortina?

'66 Ford Cortina - work in progress. 5.0HO,T-5, 8" with 3.08s, rollin' on 52 inches!
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post #7 of 120 Old 05-25-2009, 09:57 PM
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SHoooooosh! You may have just jinxed yourself
Damn,your prob right.Tomorrow on the way to work Im sure it will sh## the bed on me.

1992 Gt 306,K.B. hyper pistons ,cobra intake & gt-40 heads,b-303 cam,24# FRPP inj,PMAS maf sensor,FRPP shorties, cobra hood & rear bumper, & so on.in other words moneypit.
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post #8 of 120 Old 05-25-2009, 10:07 PM Thread Starter
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pimtina - I believe you can; but you still have to manage the wiring harness changes which are the labor intensive part. All the later model dizzy does is keep you from having to make an easy-to-make block off plate to cover the spot where the tfi went. FYI - about to have a local race shop convert a Lincoln 8.8" housing for use in the Volvo - narrow to 55", and mount up brake/suspension brackets so that, hopefully, I can bolt it in.

Michael Yount - Charlotte, NC - 82 Volvo 242 - 6.2L; '15 Fit; '16 CrossTrek

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post #9 of 120 Old 05-25-2009, 10:22 PM
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Thumbs up

Good write up Michael! I'll be keeping my eyes peeled for more updates!

Off topic: What header coating is that on your buddy's Volvo?

'66 Ford Cortina - work in progress. 5.0HO,T-5, 8" with 3.08s, rollin' on 52 inches!
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post #10 of 120 Old 05-25-2009, 10:40 PM
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I did this once using shielded 4 conductor intercom cable and hiding it in the split loom. The extra wire just got clipped off at each end. No problems that I've ever heard about from it, the car has since been returned to it's owner.


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post #11 of 120 Old 05-26-2009, 05:46 AM Thread Starter
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Yup - you can get shielded wiring from a number of sources; but I thought I'd take a shot at making my own.

pimtina - "....buddy's Volvo"? Not sure which car you're referring to.

Michael Yount - Charlotte, NC - 82 Volvo 242 - 6.2L; '15 Fit; '16 CrossTrek
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post #12 of 120 Old 05-26-2009, 06:16 AM
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THICK FILM IGNITION

Now you are just showing off. I always wondered what TFI stood for but never took the time to look it up.

On a serious note I would just acquire a length of shielded cable that length instead of making one. I would be concerned about what kind of electrical properties you have introduced by having a fairly even wrap like that.

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post #13 of 120 Old 05-26-2009, 08:21 AM
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just wanted to make a point - only ground ONE end of a shielded wire - otherwise you create a ground flow path that can cause you trouble instead of shielding you from trouble.

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post #14 of 120 Old 05-26-2009, 08:52 AM
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THICK FILM IGNITION

Now you are just showing off. I always wondered what TFI stood for but never took the time to look it up.

On a serious note I would just acquire a length of shielded cable that length instead of making one. I would be concerned about what kind of electrical properties you have introduced by having a fairly even wrap like that.
Something tells me that while I'm certain Michael is fully aware of what TFI stands for, the thread title is probably the work of the mystery moderator who edits abbreviations in thread titles.

Nice writeup. When you think you're finished with it let me know and I'll post it or link to it from the Articles forum section
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post #15 of 120 Old 05-26-2009, 11:35 AM Thread Starter
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MFE is correct - I think I put TFI in the thread title. Didn't even notice the change until ya'll mentioned it. Sometimes I say 'thin film igntion'....just for fun.

Tom - yes; I'm recreating the factory shielding approach. I got a length of the factory harness from the junk yard along with the plug/sink/old 6 cyl. tfi. I took it apart and will reproduce it. The cable is grounded on one end, and simply terminates under the shrinkwrap on the other end.

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post #16 of 120 Old 05-27-2009, 06:44 PM Thread Starter
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Finished up the shielded part of the harness and arranged the ground connection.

http://forums.corral.net/photopost/s...6&ppuser=30684

http://forums.corral.net/photopost/s...7&ppuser=30684

Next, drill holes in fenderwell to mount the sink/tfi, and pull the dizzy in order to 1) remove old tfi, 2) fabricate cover for the hole left when it's removed, and 3) lengthen the harness to reach the new remote mount location.

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post #17 of 120 Old 05-28-2009, 12:54 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Michael Yount View Post
MFE is correct - I think I put TFI in the thread title. Didn't even notice the change until ya'll mentioned it. Sometimes I say 'thin film igntion'....just for fun.

Tom - yes; I'm recreating the factory shielding approach. I got a length of the factory harness from the junk yard along with the plug/sink/old 6 cyl. tfi. I took it apart and will reproduce it. The cable is grounded on one end, and simply terminates under the shrinkwrap on the other end.

Nice write up Michael. Some of us older guys will remember the early 90's
when SVO was all the rage.
TFI was known strictly as Thick Film Integration.

Nice job, take care.

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post #18 of 120 Old 05-28-2009, 05:47 AM Thread Starter
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Thanks - I can remember the 90's ok; it's the 60's and early 70's that I have trouble with.

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post #19 of 120 Old 05-28-2009, 07:36 AM
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nice writeup!


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post #20 of 120 Old 05-28-2009, 08:57 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Michael Yount View Post
it's the 60's and early 70's that I have trouble with.
"Purple haze all in my brain, lately things just don't seem the same................"

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post #21 of 120 Old 05-28-2009, 09:45 AM Thread Starter
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"When logic and proportion
Have fallen softly dead,
And the White Knight is talking backwards..."

Oh my.

With any luck, I'll finish it up this weekend and get back on the road without stalling at lights.

Michael Yount - Charlotte, NC - 82 Volvo 242 - 6.2L; '15 Fit; '16 CrossTrek

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post #22 of 120 Old 05-28-2009, 07:44 PM Thread Starter
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Distributor removal -- pop the cap, remove the bolt, use a couple of pieces of tape to mark the rotor/housing reference, and the housing/block reference (elapsed time - 3 minutes) -- http://forums.corral.net/photopost/s...1&ppuser=30684
http://forums.corral.net/photopost/s...2&ppuser=30684 Sorry about the focus - camera autofocus was confused for some reason on this shot.

With those references, distributor can be replaced in the exact spot is was before = same initial timing. Be sure to plug up the distributor hole lest it become a magnet for unwanted items in the crankcase. http://forums.corral.net/photopost/s...3&ppuser=30684

Before/after - remove cranky tfi using special socket (Autozone has it for about $6) - http://forums.corral.net/photopost/s...4&ppuser=30684
http://forums.corral.net/photopost/s...5&ppuser=30684

Next - fabricate cover plate. I'll do it in a way that I can include a clamp to hold the harness so that there's less chance that the male electrical connections won't come unplugged from the dizzy while operating the vehicle. Gonna use a piece of leftover thin gauge sheet metal that was formerly part of a Subaru motor mount heat shield. Recycling. Green. Yum. More later.....

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post #23 of 120 Old 05-28-2009, 09:56 PM Thread Starter
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Took about 20 minutes to turn this....http://forums.corral.net/photopost/s...6&ppuser=30684

....into this.....http://forums.corral.net/photopost/s...7&ppuser=30684
http://forums.corral.net/photopost/s...8&ppuser=30684

Drill a couple of mounting holes in the same pattern as the tfi used to bolt on, and another hole to mount a harness clamp -- then simply mount the sink on the fenderwell (drill two holes), extend the factory harness, and plug in my new harness.

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post #24 of 120 Old 05-28-2009, 10:03 PM
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I bought a relocation kit off of ebay. It came with the heat sink w/fins already removed, wiring with heat shield, and a dummy tfi that plugs into the distributor.

I think the guy still sells them on ebay. It's actually a nice product...but I wish the wires were alittle longer.

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post #25 of 120 Old 05-28-2009, 10:08 PM Thread Starter
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I'm gonna see how I like my plug-in set up on the dizzy end. I can always convert my junkyard tfi/plug to a dummy on the dizzy if I don't like it.

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post #26 of 120 Old 05-30-2009, 06:23 PM Thread Starter
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Finished it up today. Fired up on the first try - timing dead on. And hasn't stalled since!

Here you can see the dizzy back in with the new shielded harness doing a 180 and heading towards the passenger side air box where the tfi now resides.
http://forums.corral.net/photopost/s...5&ppuser=30684
http://forums.corral.net/photopost/s...8&ppuser=30684

Various shots of wiring - I extended the factory harness - along with extending the shielding of the 3 wires that the factory shielded. I also shielded the whole bundle (6 wires) where it runs close to the alternator to be certain there's no signal interference with the fields created by the alternator. All connections were soldered and shrink-sleeved. I used 14 gauge wire on the new harness (tfi to dizzy) and on the extension of the factory harness. Wanted to be sure we didn't have any voltage drop with the longer wires.
http://forums.corral.net/photopost/s...9&ppuser=30684
http://forums.corral.net/photopost/s...7&ppuser=30684

Put the new extension in factory type wiring loom, rerouted it from the driver's side of the lower intake, the passenger's side, then behind the alternator, and it enters the airbox underneath the air filter. You have to look for it to see it -- and it's right in the flow of cold air into the filter. My wife, the lovely hand model.

http://forums.corral.net/photopost/s...1&ppuser=30684
http://forums.corral.net/photopost/s...0&ppuser=30684

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post #27 of 120 Old 05-30-2009, 08:57 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pimtina View Post
Can I swap a dizzy and remote module from a 94/95 into the Fox 5.0 that I'm using for my Cortina?
The main reason I thought of using a 94/95 dizzy is for the nice factory plugins (is that even a word?!). I'm locating the TFI, heatsink and MSD to inside the cabin (away from the engine heat). I'll still have to make an extended harness but i think having a nice easy plug/unplug will make thing easier. Thoughts?
Again Michael, nice write-up!

'66 Ford Cortina - work in progress. 5.0HO,T-5, 8" with 3.08s, rollin' on 52 inches!
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post #28 of 120 Old 05-30-2009, 11:49 PM Thread Starter
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If you have to buy a distributor anyway, by all means. But if you're buying one just for that --- I wouldn't bother. Don't know how it gets much easier than plugging 3 male-end wires into 3 female receptacles on the dizzy...

But - you're right, in terms of routine maintenance, it would be a bit easier to unplug the factory connector.

Michael Yount - Charlotte, NC - 82 Volvo 242 - 6.2L; '15 Fit; '16 CrossTrek

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post #29 of 120 Old 06-01-2009, 06:22 AM Thread Starter
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Final note - put about 60 miles on the car Sunday in ambient temps around 90F - so the underhood temps were up there. Car ran flawlessly. Thanks for following along - hope it might have helped someone else contemplating the same deal.

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post #30 of 120 Old 07-17-2009, 12:20 PM
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what did you use to figure out the wiring?

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post #31 of 120 Old 07-17-2009, 04:16 PM
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this is great but the 2.3 crowd instead of moving it we eliminate it, and never have to set timing again, and get rid of spark scatter, and never have to change a cap and rotor again

we just swap to DIS..in the 2.3s you use the same stock OEM turbo ECU , DO NO CHANGES TO THE COMPUTER whatsoever and just get the DIS module, coil packs, drill 2 holes in the block for the crank sensor, and rewire it up! as far as the computer knows simple DIS (not EDIS, 36-1 trigger setup) is the same as TFI/dizzy stuff..easy swap

i been eye balling explorer 5.0 coil pack stuff everytime i grab one form the JY but havent got to check if its 36-1 or hall effect..does anyone know? if so then swapping to DIS on a 5.0 mustang might be easier than you think!

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post #32 of 120 Old 07-17-2009, 10:10 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by onesillynotch View Post
this is great but the 2.3 crowd instead of moving it we eliminate it, and never have to set timing again, and get rid of spark scatter, and never have to change a cap and rotor again

we just swap to DIS..in the 2.3s you use the same stock OEM turbo ECU , DO NO CHANGES TO THE COMPUTER whatsoever and just get the DIS module, coil packs, drill 2 holes in the block for the crank sensor, and rewire it up! as far as the computer knows simple DIS (not EDIS, 36-1 trigger setup) is the same as TFI/dizzy stuff..easy swap

i been eye balling explorer 5.0 coil pack stuff everytime i grab one form the JY but havent got to check if its 36-1 or hall effect..does anyone know? if so then swapping to DIS on a 5.0 mustang might be easier than you think!
That would be pretty slick


and here's an ebay link to that guy sellin the relocation kits whoever was wondering
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Musta...A1%7C72%3A1171

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post #33 of 120 Old 07-17-2009, 10:32 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by onesillynotch View Post
this is great but the 2.3 crowd instead of moving it we eliminate it, and never have to set timing again, and get rid of spark scatter, and never have to change a cap and rotor again

we just swap to DIS..in the 2.3s you use the same stock OEM turbo ECU , DO NO CHANGES TO THE COMPUTER whatsoever and just get the DIS module, coil packs, drill 2 holes in the block for the crank sensor, and rewire it up! as far as the computer knows simple DIS (not EDIS, 36-1 trigger setup) is the same as TFI/dizzy stuff..easy swap

i been eye balling explorer 5.0 coil pack stuff everytime i grab one form the JY but havent got to check if its 36-1 or hall effect..does anyone know? if so then swapping to DIS on a 5.0 mustang might be easier than you think!
Is this a good idea since you would not be able to bump your timing?

1992 Gt 306,K.B. hyper pistons ,cobra intake & gt-40 heads,b-303 cam,24# FRPP inj,PMAS maf sensor,FRPP shorties, cobra hood & rear bumper, & so on.in other words moneypit.
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post #34 of 120 Old 07-17-2009, 10:55 PM
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EDIS can be made to work on a 5.0 with a stock computer. I've chatted with Michael about this in the past. It's all a matter of how much work you want to put into it and as always how much do you want to spend. This is a good thread over at the EEC forums that is several pages long with both good and bad info. The good info is most excellent in going into details.

http://eectuning.org/forums/viewtopic.php?t=1949

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post #35 of 120 Old 07-18-2009, 12:18 PM
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Nice write up Michael. 357poweredstang Thanks for the ebay link. When I kill another one and not a Distributor I will be converting over. I don't like wiring so the ebay kit is easier for me.

91 Coupe : RIP 2-15-10
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