Junkyard Horsepower SUMMARY! - Page 5 - Ford Mustang Forums : Corral.net Mustang Forum

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post #141 of 232 Old 10-21-2009, 09:27 PM
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aluminum block

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post #142 of 232 Old 10-27-2009, 11:18 PM
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I have an aluminum block thats reads RF-F2LE i was told it was a teksid block good for about a 1000HP is that correct or do i have a junk block im planning on throwing some twin turbos on it just want to make sure this block will hold up

Thanks Guys
From what I can tell you have a 96-97 teksid. I know that the valleys are different between the teksid & the WAP (99-01). You may want to check out the sean hyland 4.6 book just to make sure.


93 ex-4cyl coupe
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post #143 of 232 Old 10-28-2009, 08:14 PM
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Does anyone know about Fuel pumps? I thought I read somewhere that good, high flow fuel pumps, made by Ford, for some newer vehicles, like a Focus etc., can be found in the junk yard.

Or, if not in the junkyard, maybe they would be cheaper at the parts store than buying a "high performance 155 lph" fuel pump from an aftermarket company.

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post #144 of 232 Old 12-15-2009, 09:01 PM
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Does anyone know about Fuel pumps? I thought I read somewhere that good, high flow fuel pumps, made by Ford, for some newer vehicles, like a Focus etc., can be found in the junk yard.

Or, if not in the junkyard, maybe they would be cheaper at the parts store than buying a "high performance 155 lph" fuel pump from an aftermarket company.

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anyone??????

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post #145 of 232 Old 12-16-2009, 12:33 PM
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i only get 255lph pumps when i do a replacement. newer cars (>10yrs old) are also hard to come by at most pick a parts as well. iirc, only the focus svt had upgraded pumps.


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post #146 of 232 Old 01-14-2010, 03:21 PM Thread Starter
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post #147 of 232 Old 01-31-2010, 12:12 PM
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just wondering if someone on here can tell me if a starter on a 94 mustang 3.8 is the same thing as a mini starter described on first page and if so will this work on a 5.0 ????

1994 GT/Fobra clone: 418W coming soon
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post #148 of 232 Old 02-01-2010, 02:50 PM
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just wondering if someone on here can tell me if a starter on a 94 mustang 3.8 is the same thing as a mini starter described on first page and if so will this work on a 5.0 ????
yes and yes.....


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post #149 of 232 Old 02-01-2010, 05:31 PM
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i only get 255lph pumps when i do a replacement. newer cars (>10yrs old) are also hard to come by at most pick a parts as well. iirc, only the focus svt had upgraded pumps.
Kenne Bell only tested the Focus SVT pumps to be 217lph. The 03-04 pumps flow a little more than the 01-02 pumps.


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post #150 of 232 Old 02-24-2010, 11:57 AM
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Anybody know if an '09 PI Crown Vic still has a usable aluminum driveshaft? I read somewhere that for a few years the PI was using some sort of composite driveshaft...did Ford switch back to the standard aluminum for cars built in the last year or two?

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post #151 of 232 Old 03-09-2010, 01:17 AM
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Any gas tank and fuel pump interchange info???
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post #152 of 232 Old 03-18-2010, 12:36 PM
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great write up

1992 Mustang GT, T5 WC with Short Throw, ON3 67mm turbo kit, 42 inj, 255 pump, King Cobra Clutch, FRPP Fywheel, and 3.73's, BBK 70mm TB and EGR, Cervinis Ram Air, Stalker FR bumper, Mark VIII Fan, Team Z Adj. Lowers
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post #153 of 232 Old 03-18-2010, 07:21 PM
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I got explorer type injectors out of a 94 cougar with a 4.6, I also saw them in a 97 towncar.
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post #154 of 232 Old 03-18-2010, 10:59 PM
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Is the yoke that comes on the Aerostar DS the correct one for T-45 and 3650?
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post #155 of 232 Old 03-18-2010, 11:15 PM
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Is the yoke that comes on the Aerostar DS the correct one for T-45 and 3650?
If it's the A4LD tranny, no.

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post #156 of 232 Old 04-10-2010, 02:07 AM
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Auto-dim rearviews & trip meters? These would be nice upgrades for a daily driver. Thanks

93 ex-4cyl coupe
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post #157 of 232 Old 04-11-2010, 04:23 PM
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Originally Posted by metalman302 View Post
Is the yoke that comes on the Aerostar DS the correct one for T-45 and 3650?

If it's the A4LD tranny, no.
On the aerostars that DO have the correct T5 yoke, do those use the same U joints as mustang?
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post #158 of 232 Old 04-11-2010, 04:24 PM
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If you want poor man's spark plug boot protectors, you can swipe a bunch of the thermal socks on egr piping.

I use one to shield my wideband wires where they run over my x pipe.
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post #159 of 232 Old 04-11-2010, 05:09 PM
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If you want poor man's spark plug boot protectors, you can swipe a bunch of the thermal socks on egr piping.

I use one to shield my wideband wires where they run over my x pipe.
nice


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post #160 of 232 Old 04-11-2010, 06:55 PM
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It cost a little,but cheaper than buying a custom shaft from a company...I got a Crown Vic cop car aluminum driveshaft for free,and spent $108.00 to have it shortened,balanced,and they also installed my yoke and flange with adapter u-joints.Not a bad deal,and it's been great.

Also,compass mirrors from a couple of Cadillacs for $5.00 each (very easy to wire up),and remember whenever you see a 5.0 anything,grab the water pump bolts if they are in nice shape.They actually have a value to them,and they are free at the yards I go to.

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post #161 of 232 Old 04-14-2010, 02:06 PM
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i just skimed thru this quick will read more later, i remember reading the old post a long time ago.
also you can use ranger front rotors with mustang bearings iirc for a cheap 5 lug swap, iirc it was 82-94ish.
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post #162 of 232 Old 05-28-2010, 07:22 PM Thread Starter
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i just skimed thru this quick will read more later, i remember reading the old post a long time ago.
also you can use ranger front rotors with mustang bearings iirc for a cheap 5 lug swap, iirc it was 82-94ish.
You can use lots of different years/makes front 5 lug rotors, but IMO I'd rather have a nice NEW set of rotors when you can get decent OEM looking ones for ~$30 each. I'm fine with LOADS of used parts, but rotors and brake pads are one of the few things I won't go THAT cheap on. I used new Mark VII rotors on my '87 and they lined up perfect to the existing GT brakes. Doing it all over (on an 86 4 cylinder conversion) I'm still not sure where I'll go, but I think I'll just convert it all over to SN-95 and be done.

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post #163 of 232 Old 06-04-2010, 04:19 PM Thread Starter
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I just realized I'm missing a "Convert to a 351" section...
Anyone care to help?
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post #164 of 232 Old 06-06-2010, 12:42 AM
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That would be awesome! Block, deck height, roller/ non-roller, oil pan, serp. belt conversion, rotating assembly, & mount info please.

93 ex-4cyl coupe

Last edited by needsboost; 06-06-2010 at 12:56 AM.
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post #165 of 232 Old 06-08-2010, 07:11 PM
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I just realized I'm missing a "Convert to a 351" section...
Anyone care to help?
Since I just did the 351w thing, guess I can pull that info together too.

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post #166 of 232 Old 06-25-2010, 01:03 AM
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For those of you using those high torque starters or the old ones w/ the solenoid on it to keep you from having starting issues due to high heat temperature which causes you to have to lay on the ground and SMACK the starter to get your cars to start for your 5.0's and 5.8 and any others take and do what is shown in the following (pdf) w/ junkyard or new parts painlessperformance DOT com/Manuals/30203.pdf <--- sorry I'm not allowed to post links so just replace the word DOT w/ a . and remove the spaces and it will solve that problem with the solenoid getting so hot from being COOKED by the exhaust manifold just get the solenoid off the fenderwell of any old Ford and Chrysler's from the I believe the 60's, 70's, 80's and mid 90's 3 or 4 pin it doesn't matter just remember which small pin on the 4 pin model which goes to the ignition or just buy them new they are WAY cheaper for a ford at the auto parts store 10 bucks maybe less depending on your local (bandits) racers do this just go and make your own kit that's why I HATE those starters.

Side note:Where it says ballast resistor use a condenser instead it's cheaper and will last a hella lot longer (it's a little metal block with two little bolts and comes w/ two nuts you just use two eyelets crimped on to the wire between the solenoid and the coil this will silence any radio noise too.

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post #167 of 232 Old 06-25-2010, 03:35 AM
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subscribed, thanks for the info

90LX, systemax kit, Z-cam, 175hp nos kit

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post #168 of 232 Old 06-25-2010, 12:38 PM
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For those of you using those high torque starters or the old ones w/ the solenoid on it.
To keep you from having starting issues due to high heat temperature which causes you to have to lay on the ground and SMACK the starter to get your cars to start for your 5.0's and 5.8 and any others, take and do what is shown in the following (pdf) w/ junkyard or new parts
www.painlessperformance.com/Manuals/30203.pdf
It will solve that problem with the solenoid getting so hot from being COOKED by the exhaust manifold, just get the solenoid off the fender well of any old Ford and Chrysler's from the I believe the 60's, 70's, 80's and mid 90's, 3 or 4 pin it doesn't matter just remember which small pin on the 4 pin model which goes to the ignition or just buy them new they are WAY cheaper for a ford at the auto parts store 10 bucks maybe less depending on your local (bandits) racers do this, just go and make your own kit, that's why I HATE those starters.


Am I wrong but isnt that the way the 93 mustang stock mini high-torque starter is wired stock??

(I havent had any trouble with my 93 stock mini high-torque starter since I converted from the non high-torque starter back around 2000 & have been running long tube headers)

(Ive seen some guys that they dont rewire correctly for the 93 model starter after they converted & have the starter dragging a moment after the engine fires up)
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post #169 of 232 Old 06-25-2010, 01:37 PM
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i dont know about 93 specifically (but can check) but thats not exactly the way ford did it on prior years but is how i did it on my earlier cars when i swapped to a mini starter


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post #170 of 232 Old 06-25-2010, 04:48 PM
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Am I wrong but isnt that the way the 93 mustang stock mini high-torque starter is wired stock??

(I havent had any trouble with my 93 stock mini high-torque starter since I converted from the non high-torque starter back around 2000 & have been running long tube headers)

(Ive seen some guys that they dont rewire correctly for the 93 model starter after they converted & have the starter dragging a moment after the engine fires up)
Ford did place a heat shield between the starter and the block for this reason my brother as a mechanic would remove these heat shield and NOT replace them when a car would come into the garage when a customers car needed a new starter just because it was slightly difficult to put back up.
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post #171 of 232 Old 06-25-2010, 05:07 PM
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This is all I know-
When converting to the 93 high torque mini starter on pre 93 mustangs,

You just take the large cable (comes off the starter & connects to the solenoid)
& swap posts on the solenoid (power side).
Then run a new wire (10-12 gauge or so) off that large post (the 1 that has nothing on it now) & run down & connect to the solenoid on the side of the starter (most of the time theres a male spade on that solenoid)
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post #172 of 232 Old 06-25-2010, 05:09 PM
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i was confused as i have seen the mini starter on 92's as well..... and the oe wiring did not jump from the battery power to the relay side but had a seperate wire run from the solenoid to eht relay side of the starter....


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post #173 of 232 Old 06-25-2010, 05:12 PM
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Originally Posted by fordjunky View Post
This is all I know-
When converting to the 93 high torque mini starter on pre 93 mustangs,

You just take the large cable (comes off the starter & connects to the solenoid)
& swap posts on the solenoid (power side).
Then run a new wire (10-12 gauge or so) off that large post (the 1 that has nothing on it now) & run down & connect to the solenoid on the side of the starter (most of the time theres a male spade on that solenoid)
Ford replaced the spade plug end version with a bolt version which keeps a better electrical connection this is the better one to get but if you must have a starter now and that's all they got then fine.

Last edited by wrksnfx; 06-25-2010 at 05:34 PM.
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post #174 of 232 Old 07-07-2010, 01:20 PM
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why is thread not sticky again?????
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post #175 of 232 Old 07-07-2010, 11:29 PM
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(Ive seen some guys that they dont rewire correctly for the 93 model starter after they converted & have the starter dragging a moment after the engine fires up)
I'm gonna say that's a myth...... redundant series'd soleniods supposed to prevent problems, but wiring it just like a factory 94 95 car with only the solenoid on the starter will cause problems? BS I say.

Just like how ONE guy ages ago put a 96 straight rod booster with fox pedals and *thought* it *might* have caused binding.... and now ever since then, this has been considered gospel on the forums. BTW myself and others have a 96 pedal on a fox booster so same degree of misalignment..... no problems.
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