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Old 12-27-2008, 10:44 PM   #1
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connecting rod to crankshaft chamfer

i kind of screwed up and somehow mixed up 4 rods and put them on backwards. its a stock 351 windsor and the stock rod has such a useless chamfer to begin with and the crank doesnt have much of a radius either. I installed one and i have a decent amount of clearance. honestly will this pose an issue? i feel stupid asking but dont want to ruin the pistons trying to press them out.... stock motor low rpm...
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Old 12-27-2008, 11:17 PM   #2
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For any wondering it doesnt work, mocked it up and i dont have side clearance. I am just bummed because i had a hard time using the rod heater and getting the on.....
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Old 12-28-2008, 01:26 AM   #3
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We all make booboos every once in a while
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Old 12-28-2008, 09:15 AM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fullrace View Post
For any wondering it doesnt work, mocked it up and i dont have side clearance. I am just bummed because i had a hard time using the rod heater and getting the on.....
Mistakes is how most of us learned..You'll never forget it now..
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Old 12-28-2008, 01:19 PM   #5
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some stock pistons have four valve reliefs so they have no "direction " other than the indicator pointing towards the "front" of block.

you are suppose to put the pistons in a certain "direction" when you lay them on the table, and put the pistons with the "side up" pointing a certain way / direction..and pay attention when the rod heater is running so you dont trip over your dick and screw up like this.
rod caps also have a certain direction and must be installed on the original rod beam or else the cap will not be aligned properly to make bearing fit on crank with proper clearance.

kinda quirey / wonder that if you have access to a rod heater on just HOW you would not have allready known these VERY basic things and screw it up.

might as well just beat it apart with a big PHucKing hammer.....

....
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I have gone down the road that you are only now about to travel.
tires are the great equalizer
a degree wheel, EIGHT INCH dial caliper & adjustable pushrods should be just as normal as a 1/2" wrench in your toolbox
there aint no shortcuts to doing it RIGHT....
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Old 12-28-2008, 01:33 PM   #6
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if you LOOK at the rod beam...SIDE VIEW, not able to look thru the bearing bore, you will see that the SIDE of beam between the rod bore and wrist pin bore is OFFSET to one side more than the other in relation to the chamfer edge SIDE of "large end"....
thus, the BEAM is NOT centered over the width of the bearing....
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I have gone down the road that you are only now about to travel.
tires are the great equalizer
a degree wheel, EIGHT INCH dial caliper & adjustable pushrods should be just as normal as a 1/2" wrench in your toolbox
there aint no shortcuts to doing it RIGHT....
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Old 12-28-2008, 03:16 PM   #7
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$h1t happens. you can get the pistons off the rods without damage to the piston with the proper tool. A machine shop should have one.
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Old 12-28-2008, 06:32 PM   #8
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Don't mean to interrupt your thread but I have a question that is kind of related. I just tore down my motor for the first time after a head gasket let go and I need to know if bearing wear on the rod bearings is excessive or abnormal if there is a slight bit of copper color showing through on the edge of the rod bearings after about 13k miles. Also is there a method for determining if a rod is slightly bent without being able to see it. They all measure exactly the same length. THANKS!
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Old 12-28-2008, 06:51 PM   #9
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Only one rod bearing? If a rod is bent, say the upper half is showing copper on one side of the bearing, the lower half will be showing copper on the opposite side. If its down to copper in 13K its excessive wear.
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Old 01-05-2009, 12:31 AM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kato Engineering View Post
some stock pistons have four valve reliefs so they have no "direction " other than the indicator pointing towards the "front" of block.

you are suppose to put the pistons in a certain "direction" when you lay them on the table, and put the pistons with the "side up" pointing a certain way / direction..and pay attention when the rod heater is running so you dont trip over your dick and screw up like this.
rod caps also have a certain direction and must be installed on the original rod beam or else the cap will not be aligned properly to make bearing fit on crank with proper clearance.

kinda quirey / wonder that if you have access to a rod heater on just HOW you would not have allready known these VERY basic things and screw it up.

might as well just beat it apart with a big PHucKing hammer.....

....
I know how its supposed to work i just made a stupid mistake laying them out I think. I ended up overthinking it and just messed up the one bank. I knew that the sbf ones all go on the same way unlike chevys were they need to get flipped, intake valve goes to chamfer that is how I can remember it in an instance like this. Sometimes if you think about something too much you can make a mistake, I got them all corrected now though...
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