B303 camshaft guys

[rsw007]

I want to know what your peak hp and tq rpms were. dyno sheets would be great. found a low "200mile" b-303 cam and explorer intake.trying to figure out if i want to put the cam in straight up or -2, -4, +2, +4 degrees. i will be using it with 1.7 rockers on iron gt-40's.

[Badazgt]

no dyno sheets but i ran one for years...

i installed mine straight up with 1.7 rollers

[rsw007]

what shift points were you using?

[rsw007]

ttt

[thefordkid1]

I don't have a "B" cam, but I would say that the powerband is probably close to my "F" given that you will be using 1.7s.
With the explorer intake and iron GT40s...I would say (guess?) your HP peak will be in the range of 5,000-5,200. The intake and heads are going to keep you from making much HP over 5,500. Unless you get them ported. Also we need more info on the rest of the combo.
Peak torque will occur at 4,000 rpm or so.
With that said; I would start by shifting near 5,500 rpm. (Make sure you have good springs). Experiment from there.

[Badazgt]

i shifted at 5,500

it seemed to get going real good at around 3,000 rpm

i used this cam when i was N/A

[thefordkid1]

Originally Posted by rsw007

I want to know what your peak hp and tq rpms were. dyno sheets would be great. found a low "200mile" b-303 cam and explorer intake.trying to figure out if i want to put the cam in straight up or -2, -4, +2, +4 degrees. i will be using it with 1.7 rockers on iron gt-40's.

The B cam has a 5 degree advance built in. I would install it that way. Why? Since Explorer intake and GT40 irons are more efficient under 5,500 rpm, then it would probably make sense to install it straight up (which should give you the 5 degree advance built in when properly degreed). This advance will keep the cam more efficient under 5,500 rpm and better match the heads and intake.

Maybe someone else with a B cam will chime in and shed more light.

By the way, nice drag strip times there on your aod car with such a mild combo mentioned in your sig.

[FordRacer9]

My old stick car ran a Bcam combo. It never went to the chasis dyno, but it hit the 1320 on the regular. Had a STOCK short block with out of the box TWs a Torker II intake and Holley Carb.

I found that to make my combo work, I needed the cam -4*. I left off the 2 step at 6K and shifted at 6500. Went 11.60s with a 1.53 60ft. Turned 5800 thru the traps (IIRC). This was on a 26x10.

FWIW, the B LOVES having a 1.6 on the intake and a 1.72 on the exhaust. nomatter where I had the cam dialed in, the split rocker set always ran harder.

[rsw007]

TTT

[Cobra427]

With the combo in my sig I shift at 6k on the stock tach. never been to a dyno. my cam is +2

[raym5_0]

mine is installed straight up, 1.7 rockers, stock cobra intake, tw heads unported. but I have an S-trim with 12-13lbs boost@5k. Mine dyno'd at 490rwhp and 500ftlbs. Mild tune, 11.2 AFR. Stock block so didnt get any more aggressive on the tune. 490hp at 5k, but unsure what it is at 5500 or 6k, which is around 15lbs boost. So I'm guessing maybe around 520rwhp??
I'm not disappointed with decision to go with the b-cam.

[ElectricGreen99GT]

I have never dynoed my car but it runs good with the b cam installed straight up . My car has a built AOD , performer heads , 1.7 rockers , AED carb , air gap intake , 4.10s and drag radials . The 1-2 shift happens at 6400rpm and 2-3 at 6000 rpms . This Saturday I ran a new best on motor it went 12.20 @ 111 mph with a 1.65 60 ft . It's also been 7.64 @ 88 mph in the 1/8th a couple weeks ago . It's also been 6.94 @ 95 mph with a 150 shot with a 1.40 60 ft . My car weighs 3250 with me in it .

[Michael Yount]

For a very small fee, I believe Buddy Rawls will model your set up with the B and recommend the optimum cam timing. Probably get you a better result than taking a poll in the thread.

Electric green - when you say 'straight up' -- did you degree it to the cam card events, or just put it dot to dot? If the latter, then you don't really know what the cam timing is. Dot to dot installs can be 2-4-6-8 degrees off...

[tripleblackvert]

at the strip i tried shifting at 6k the first few passes cuz it felt like it was still pulling hard,but dropping my shifts down to 5700-5800 i picked up almost .5..im going to try in the 5500-5600 range in the spring see if its any better..i may also get a tune,so i wont have to experiment as much

[BarneysBullitt]

Originally Posted by FordRacer9

.

FWIW, the B LOVES having a 1.6 on the intake and a 1.72 on the exhaust. nomatter where I had the cam dialed in, the split rocker set always ran harder.

So why does the split rocker setup work better??

Barry

[Michael Yount]

The 'cam' doesn't know the difference on rocker ratio. But many of the early Ford heads (E7's, GT40's, P's, FRPP aluminum X and Y's) flow much better (proportionally) on the intake side than the on the exhaust side. Good flowing heads usually have the exhaust side flowing about 80% of what the intake side will flow. All the Ford heads mentioned above flow about 70-75% of the intake on the exhaust side. That's often why the providing a bit more lift and average open time under the curve with a 1.7 rocker on the exhaust side helps. Has to do with the head and intake set up - not the cam.

[stoksuks]

Heres` my sheet w/ a b303.

[ls1killa]

Originally Posted by FordRacer9

My old stick car ran a Bcam combo. It never went to the chasis dyno, but it hit the 1320 on the regular. Had a STOCK short block with out of the box TWs a Torker II intake and Holley Carb.

I found that to make my combo work, I needed the cam -4*. I left off the 2 step at 6K and shifted at 6500. Went 11.60s with a 1.53 60ft. Turned 5800 thru the traps (IIRC). This was on a 26x10.

FWIW, the B LOVES having a 1.6 on the intake and a 1.72 on the exhaust. nomatter where I had the cam dialed in, the split rocker set always ran harder.

wow, i'm going to have to try the 1.6in. 1.7ex i'm running a bcam with ported upper and lower cobra and ported performer stud mount heads. doesn't sound like a bad idea

[rsw007]

Originally Posted by ElectricGreen99GT

I have never dynoed my car but it runs good with the b cam installed straight up . My car has a built AOD , performer heads , 1.7 rockers , AED carb , air gap intake , 4.10s and drag radials . The 1-2 shift happens at 6400rpm and 2-3 at 6000 rpms . This Saturday I ran a new best on motor it went 12.20 @ 111 mph with a 1.65 60 ft . It's also been 7.64 @ 88 mph in the 1/8th a couple weeks ago . It's also been 6.94 @ 95 mph with a 150 shot with a 1.40 60 ft . My car weighs 3250 with me in it .

what size stall do you have?

[Trey LePark]

I haven't had mine dynoed or run the 1320 but Mike (Thumper460) told me to set it up +4 so that's what I did. I like it.

[rsw007]

Originally Posted by Trey LePark

I haven't had mine dynoed or run the 1320 but Mike (Thumper460) told me to set it up +4 so that's what I did. I like it.

did you degree it or just do +4 on chain? im planning on setting with 105-106 icl "approx +2" if it is truly 107.

[Trey LePark]

Originally Posted by rsw007

did you degree it or just do +4 on chain? im planning on setting with 105-106 icl "approx +2" if it is truly 107.

I degreed it.

Here is exactly what he told me:

To give you that LOPY Idle and no P/V issues the B cam is that!! also install the FMSB cam in at 103 ICL ( it is cut on 107 , so 4* advanced) it is a 112* LSA not 107 ! cool?? the power will be there.. the racey lopy idle and tire smoking launches,,
Mike

[rsw007]

trey with it advanced that far does it still pull farther than the stock cam?

[Quarterhorse_2]

Originally Posted by ls1killa

wow, i'm going to have to try the 1.6in. 1.7ex i'm running a bcam with ported upper and lower cobra and ported performer stud mount heads. doesn't sound like a bad idea

I tried 1.6 intake 1.7 ex and it made no difference at all....not any faster or slower....I had a 306 stock heads b cam performer rpm 750 Holley 12.77 @ 106 open h pipe on slicks 85 GT 3200 lbs.

[Trey LePark]

Originally Posted by rsw007

trey with it advanced that far does it still pull farther than the stock cam?

Yep. Bear in mind that I didn't just do a cam swap. I did the whole H/C/I all at one time. Everything is breathing significantly better than stock.

[fiveohfanatic]

Originally Posted by Badazgt

no dyno sheets but i ran one for years...

i installed mine straight up with 1.7 rollers

X2, currently with that setup and now running a V2 SQ trim pushing 12lbs of boost and loving it.

The cam really comes alive around 3K RPM's so if you are looking for street fun and torque N/A, I say look for a different cam.

Thats my 1/2 a penny

[2dxtrm]

what would be the most striaghtforward way to install the B303 on a 95 5.0L short with Edelbrock Performer Heads and Performer 5.0 intake....and 3.27 gears out back...T5 trans...

without a degree wheel....straight up? dot to dot on the chain?

can I get away without flycutting the slugs and the Performer heads?
I believe they are the 1.90 valve.

[fiveohfanatic]

Originally Posted by 2dxtrm

what would be the most striaghtforward way to install the B303 on a 95 5.0L short with Edelbrock Performer Heads and Performer 5.0 intake....and 3.27 gears out back...T5 trans...

without a degree wheel....straight up? dot to dot on the chain?

can I get away without flycutting the slugs and the Performer heads?
I believe they are the 1.90 valve.

If you are running it on the street and its a everyday driver, you can install it straight up. Trust me those dots are there for a reason. If you are serious all out racer and every ounce of power matters, get it degree'd. By degreeing it you change the RPM range on the cam as to where it makes power.

You should be fine with PTV clearance however you should always check. Also its not lift but more of duration that matters with clearance, and thats just one variable. There are numerous ways to do this with or without the heads installed. Do a search.

Also dont forget a spring upgrade if you plan on running stock heads, trust me your drivetrain will thank you.

[Joel5.0]

Originally Posted by fiveohfanatic

If you are running it on the street and its a everyday driver, you can install it straight up. Trust me those dots are there for a reason. If you are serious all out racer and every ounce of power matters, get it degree'd. By degreeing it you change the RPM range on the cam as to where it makes power.

You should be fine with PTV clearance however you should always check. Also its not lift but more of duration that matters with clearance, and thats just one variable. There are numerous ways to do this with or without the heads installed. Do a search.

Also dont forget a spring upgrade if you plan on running stock heads, trust me your drivetrain will thank you.

Installing any cam "straight up" does not mean that it will be at the specs the cam was bought for. Degreeing a cam is a procedure to verify the accuracy of the installation of a cam. You could have a B-303 installation with the intake opening .050" @8° BTDC instead of its 5° BTDC specification. All caused by the variability of all the components involved.... crankshaft key, timing kit, chain, camshaft... + it's a procedure required in order to perform a PtV check, so why not do it?

One E-303 I installed was off by 4°...... the "straight up" or "dot-to-dot" position was actually a 4° advanced installation. In another case, it meant a 2° advanced installation. One B-303 installation I recall, instead of having the intake opened .050" @5° BTDC .... it was @3.5° BTDC.... oh!... and they are not single pattern cams either..... BTW, that was just cylinder #1.

[mushoss93]

People where I'm from call the B-Cam a dinosaur cam. They shut up though when the dinosaur ate that ass!

[fiveohfanatic]

Originally Posted by Joel5.0

Installing any cam "straight up" does not mean that it will be at the specs the cam was bought for. Degreeing a cam is a procedure to verify the accuracy of the installation of a cam. You could have a B-303 installation with the intake opening .050" @8° BTDC instead of its 5° BTDC specification. All caused by the variability of all the components involved.... crankshaft key, timing kit, chain, camshaft... + it's a procedure required in order to perform a PtV check, so why not do it?

One E-303 I installed was off by 4°...... the "straight up" or "dot-to-dot" position was actually a 4° advanced installation. In another case, it meant a 2° advanced installation. One B-303 installation I recall, instead of having the intake opened .050" @5° BTDC .... it was @3.5° BTDC.... oh!... and they are not single pattern cams either..... BTW, that was just cylinder #1.

Joel, you are very knowledgeable in cam degree, timing events etc. Degreeing a cam is very important however I know many of folks that install it straight up. Does that get all it can out of the cam? Maybe not, but once again are you racing and every .10 counts? Or driving it on the street and just having some fun?.

I understand clearly that timing events are important and a degree or two makes a difference. I have put several of these 302/alphabet cam combos together and not once had a issue with installing them "dot to dot"

Once again my opinion and I respect yours

[Joel5.0]

Originally Posted by fiveohfanatic

Joel, you are very knowledgeable in cam degree, timing events etc. Degreeing a cam is very important however I know many of folks that install it straight up. Does that get all it can out of the cam? Maybe not, but once again are you racing and every .10 counts? Or driving it on the street and just having some fun?.

I understand clearly that timing events are important and a degree or two makes a difference. I have put several of these 302/alphabet cam combos together and not once had a issue with installing them "dot to dot"

Once again my opinion and I respect yours

... I understand what you mean...... the point I'm trying to make is how that "bolt on w/out checking" approach starts with the camshaft, PtV, valve train configuration and geometry setting, lifters preload...... then it is extended to replacing spark plugs w/out checking gap, installing the distributor w/out verifying it's not 1-tooth off either way, etc, etc. Hey.... it's just a "bolt on" assembly to have some fun.............. until the neighbor's Honda Civic beats your 9.50 ET in the 1/8 mile. Now you want to check what is wrong with it......... "There is never money [or time] to do it right, but there's always money [and time] to do it over."

Just a thought....

[rsw007]

im looking for 300-400 more rpms than my stock cam and more overall power above 3000rpms thats my converter stall so not worried about power below that.

[fiveohfanatic]

Originally Posted by Joel5.0

... I understand what you mean...... the point I'm trying to make is how that "bolt on w/out checking" approach starts with the camshaft, PtV, valve train configuration and geometry setting, lifters preload...... then it is extended to replacing spark plugs w/out checking gap, installing the distributor w/out verifying it's not 1-tooth off either way, etc, etc. Hey.... it's just a "bolt on" assembly to have some fun.............. until the neighbor's Honda Civic beats your 9.50 ET in the 1/8 mile. Now you want to check what is wrong with it......... "There is never money [or time] to do it right, but there's always money [and time] to do it over."

Just a thought....

Now where talking, I knew there would be something valuable unearthed from this. Install it dot to dot, however I have never, and I mean never installed a set of heads and cam without checking PTV clearance, or any valvetrain part for that matter. That is why there are several ways to check it with some being more accurate than others.

Then goes lifter preload, rocker arm setup, checking coil bind, and the list goes on and on.

If you do it, do it right the first time

[Trey LePark]

Originally Posted by fiveohfanatic

If you do it, do it right the first time

I think that's what Joel was trying to tell you.